• There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.

Husqvarna SM610 Valve Adjustment How-To

Joined
Aug 11, 2002
Location
.
Moto(s)
.
BARF perks
AMA #: 2809843
I looked long and hard for a how-to on an SM610 and never found one. So Garret and I decided to do one on our own. We didn't take as many pics as we wanted, but it should help out newbs who have never done it before.

There may be easier ways to do this, but Garret and I decided to tackle my bike the way the manual says to do so. No short cuts, nothing easy, just do it the slow way.

Total time was about 2.5 hours from start to finish and neither Garret nor I had ever done a single valve check in our life.

1) Take the bodywork off the bike. You should have something like this:
6.jpg


2) You need to take the radiators off to do this the long/safe way. That means you need to drain them too. Good time to run distilled water / water wetter anyway. First take the drain cap off, then pull the drain plug. It's located just below the header pipe. Prepare for coolant to go *everywhere*.
10.jpg


3) While the coolant drained, we cleaned up the area above the valves so we could actually work! Undo all your wiring stuff and zip-tie (or safety-wire) to the top of the frame.
12.jpg


4) Now remove these two breather hoses (I already took one off in this pic) to make more room.
13.jpg


5) Pop the dust covers off the radiators by hand. Be careful, they break easy. Then remove the fan. There's a bolt on the outside edge of the radiator (2 actually, but one came off with the bodywork). Remove it
19.jpg


6) Now remove the bolt that bolts the fan to the frame. It also runs through the coolant resevior (which you will need to remove later!). It has a 10mm nut on one side and an allen on the left side.
18.jpg
 
Last edited:
7) Pull the bottom radiator hoses to drain the rest of the coolant (as best as you can).
21.jpg


8) Start pulling the other hoses. The left side of the bike has a hose w/ a weird clamp. Remove this first and pull it up and out of the way. It connects to a large "T," don't worry -- you will not be removing the T from the frame.
24.jpg


9) Unbolt the radiators. There's very obvious 8mm bolts on the backside (toward the front of the bike) that have rubber bushings. Remove them and prepare to hold the radiator while you remove all other small hoses. Don't worry, they really only go to one spot so it's not hard to remember how they fit. You basically have a hose near the filler cap of the right radiator, the one off the water pump and the two lower hoses.
25.jpg

Get them out of the way....
27.jpg


10) Now you get to take out that resevoir that you unbolted earlier. Pull it out to the left side of the bike (where your clutch lever is... that's your left haha).
32.jpg
 
Last edited:
11) Pull the plug wire off and remove the spark plug. I used a regular socket as my spark plug socket was too thick to get down in the hole. Just be careful. Now is a good time to check your plug, you want a tan color on the tip.
38.jpg

39.jpg


12) Now you need to find Top Dead Center on the compression stroke (TDC-C). I used a straw (never felt comfortable enough to completely let go of it) to determine the height of the piston. Use this link to learn about TDC-C
40.jpg


13) Pull the valve covers off. There's two 8mm bolts and they are basically hand tight + a little more. They came off w/out using a socket, merely a regular wrench and light pressure.
16.jpg


14) Get your .002 feeler gauge and start adjusting your valves! You loosen the nut on the top of the rocker (see pic in step 13) and then feel between the very bottom of the rocker and the top of the valve (the flat part).
42.jpg


As you can see, I did not use proper feeler gauges. I suggest you buy some angled feeler gauges from Motion Pro. Since ours didn't work properly we had to adjust it as follows:

Use a .003 to determine if it's too loose (remember, too loose is better than too tight). If the .003 fit, I knew it wasn't to the spec of .002. We then loosened the lock nut, tightened the screw (flathead screwdriver on top of the lock nut) a tiny bit (by tiny bit, I mean less than 1mm of turn) until the .003 didn't fit.

We then used a .002 to check to make sure we weren't too tight. If the .002 slid in relatively easy, but not too easy, it was fine. If it was tight, almost as if it was fighting as you pulled it out, it was too tight. Remember as you tighten the lock-nut, it will adjust the valve. Be sure to check and recheck, before and after tightening.

15) Button everything up (reverse order) and replace the coolant. (I used 1.4qts of distilled water and 4 caps of water wetter).
44.jpg


Start it up and enjoy! I highly suggest those angled feeler gauges though. I'm going to be grabbing a pair of them (.002/.003) and redoing the valves just to make sure.

As you get more comfortable, you can do it without taking OFF the radiators.
 
Last edited:
Very nice! I'd say it wasn't too big of a job for a couple of n00bs to tackle. In the end we didn't break anything, and next time It'll take half the time :)
 
I had my bmw mech buddy help me on my ktm for the 1st valve job. Had to get a snapon off-set wrench becuse I'm lazy. Do your valves tighten or loosen with use? Mine tighten so I always set to max gap. I find setting tdc is more of a hassle than the valve adj.
 
I had my bmw mech buddy help me on my ktm for the 1st valve job. Had to get a snapon off-set wrench becuse I'm lazy. Do your valves tighten or loosen with use? Mine tighten so I always set to max gap. I find setting tdc is more of a hassle than the valve adj.

Mine get loose with use. These were in the upper end of the .0035-.0039 range, when Spec is .002.
 
a dial indicator might help find TDC. you might have to rig up a way to mount it while you are using it but i would rather find TDC within .001 then using a straw.
 
a dial indicator might help find TDC. you might have to rig up a way to mount it while you are using it but i would rather find TDC within .001 then using a straw.

I felt that way too, until I read up on TDC and found out you actually have about 6-8mm of slack in TDC to adjust the valves. Reason being, the valves don't open and close *at* TDC, they pretty much move throughout the stroke.

You can remove the clutch cover and line up the "dots" to find TDC as well, and next time I will do that just to see how accurate the straw-method is; But at least in the world of Husky SM610's.... the straw method is tried and true.
 
I felt that way too, until I read up on TDC and found out you actually have about 6-8mm of slack in TDC to adjust the valves. Reason being, the valves don't open and close *at* TDC, they pretty much move throughout the stroke.

You can remove the clutch cover and line up the "dots" to find TDC as well, and next time I will do that just to see how accurate the straw-method is; But at least in the world of Husky SM610's.... the straw method is tried and true.

You'll need a special tool from husky to do that.

great writeup and pics!
 
Nice writeup, I didnt know that doing the 610 valves was that involved....Makes the 510 look like cakework:thumbup
 
Nice writeup, I didnt know that doing the 610 valves was that involved....Makes the 510 look like cakework:thumbup

Technically we should have bought some $130 tool from Husqvarna, removed the right side cover and found TDC that way. So it could have been worse!

I'll be doing this again soon, and I will more than likely do it without removing the radiators. That was, by far, the most time consuming part of this entire process.

That said, I bet we'll be able to get it down to 1.25 hours (or less) next time we do it, even if we remove the radiators. It really goes faster than it looks, but yeah it was a little tedious at times.
 
OR....you can just ride a DRZ :laughing ...come on....someone had to say it! And ya I know you had one :twofinger

J/K...Dude...nice writeup....Im positive someone will be looking for this and when they find it, they will wipe the sweat off their brow!
 
I felt that way too, until I read up on TDC and found out you actually have about 6-8mm of slack in TDC to adjust the valves. Reason being, the valves don't open and close *at* TDC, they pretty much move throughout the stroke.

You can remove the clutch cover and line up the "dots" to find TDC as well, and next time I will do that just to see how accurate the straw-method is; But at least in the world of Husky SM610's.... the straw method is tried and true.

Cool. I am all for low tech if it works. If its an accepted method go for it. Thanks for the info on TDC. I didn't know that.
 
Technically we should have bought some $130 tool from Husqvarna, removed the right side cover and found TDC that way. So it could have been worse!

I'll be doing this again soon, and I will more than likely do it without removing the radiators. That was, by far, the most time consuming part of this entire process.

That said, I bet we'll be able to get it down to 1.25 hours (or less) next time we do it, even if we remove the radiators. It really goes faster than it looks, but yeah it was a little tedious at times.


nice write up. :thumbup


want to do mine? :twofinger :laughing
 
nice write up. :thumbup


want to do mine? :twofinger :laughing

Bring it over to my place and be prepared to help.... I'd be glad to!

I'm going to be re-doing mine in the next two weeks (with the correct MotionPro feeler gauges this time -- just to put my mind at ease), so seriously.... if you want to get yours done at the same time, I've got the room and the tools.
 
Husqvarna SM610 Valve Adjustment How-To Reply to Thread

Did you mention to check the timing chain (the trumper boo boo) when doing valve checks?
 
Back
Top