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Old 05-16-2018, 09:27 AM   #1
SpeedyCorky
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Anyone a good Honda (car) mechanic?

long story short, I changed a timing belt on my 2010 odyssey, was dumb enough to try and hand crank the motor w/o the crank pin in it (didnt notice), and I think i've bent a valve or a lifter or something in the rear head.

symptom is that that timing belt tensioner pulley is making a shitty clicking noise, especially under high engine load. i've swapped out virtually all the parts i've changed from doing the timing belt, and the noise remains. i figure something must be wrong with the rear cam, and be catching/sticking or whatever and causing the rear cam to pull inconsistently on the timing belt tensioner pulley.

so I need a Honda mechanic who is comfy with diagnosing, removing the rear cam. I suspect the problem will be a slightly bent *something* but i also suspect it will be fairly difficult to diagnose visually


Thread on the Odyssey forum of the story so far:
http://www.odyclub.com/forums/52-200...placement.html

PM me
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Old 05-16-2018, 10:33 AM   #2
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Don't have a mechanic to recommend, but my first question would be is it an interference engine?

Second, make sure the valves are all in proper adjustment. Sometimes one doesn't notice something that's been there all along until they do something to focus their attention in that direction.

If the engine is not an interference engine, you can rule out any valve damage.

FYI, there's always the possibility of a bad tensioner, even if it's new. I had a cam chain tensioner on my Mini replaced when it went bad and shortly after that, the replacement went bad as well. It happens.

And if the noise increases in intensity with increased load on the engine, it's not valve train related. Load on the valve train does not increase with load on the engine. Other possibilities would be a bad rod bearing or maybe a tiny exhaust leak.
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Old 05-16-2018, 10:41 AM   #3
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Just found this on the internet:

"All Honda engines are interference except 3.0L & 3.2 which are Non-interference"

Given that the 2010 Odyssey has the 3.5 liter engine, You might have tweaked something. If you did, it will be the valves. Likely the rockers will be fine. Pistons may be damaged or may be salvageable. That fact that it runs at all is promising. Are you sure you have the timing correct now? It may be possible to have the timing off and have the pistons just kissing the valves. I'd not run it at all until you figure that out. And if you do have bent valves, the head(s) need to come off.

Good luck!
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Old 05-16-2018, 10:42 AM   #4
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How far did you turn the crank before realizing your mistake?
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Old 05-16-2018, 03:35 PM   #5
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I was under the impression that most motors that are interference have a timing chain, not belt. Maybe that's just toyota...
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Old 05-16-2018, 06:18 PM   #6
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interference engine
turned crank i dunno maybe 20 degrees?
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Old 05-16-2018, 07:34 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by zammer View Post
I was under the impression that most motors that are interference have a timing chain, not belt. Maybe that's just toyota...
nah... Mitsubishi, Honda, etc pretty common for interference engines to have timing belts.
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Old 05-16-2018, 08:00 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zammer View Post
I was under the impression that most motors that are interference have a timing chain, not belt. Maybe that's just toyota...
there aren't many non-interference engines made, and there are a whole lot of engines made with timing belts
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Old 05-17-2018, 10:02 AM   #9
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check the compression on the bank of cylinders you suspect are affected. That will localize where the potential damage is. If you junked a few valves that's a good way to find out.
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Old 05-17-2018, 11:17 AM   #10
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been there done that

195 to 210 on all cylinders...


Took it to Honda yesterday, they did a valve adjustment and inspection, couldnt figure out what the problem was. they want to blame the aftermarket water pump (and/or other aftermarket parts), which is exactly what i expected them to say, and is totally BS. in a last, final, fleeting flying fuck attempt to fix this i am going to swap BACK in the OEM 115k mile parts, and see if the noise stops. i highly doubt it will. if it does, then i'll be amazed - it it doesnt, i'm gonna sell the damn thing
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Old 05-17-2018, 11:21 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by SpeedyCorky View Post
been there done that

195 to 210 on all cylinders...


Took it to Honda yesterday, they did a valve adjustment and inspection, couldnt figure out what the problem was. they want to blame the aftermarket water pump (and/or other aftermarket parts), which is exactly what i expected them to say, and is totally BS. in a last, final, fleeting flying fuck attempt to fix this i am going to swap BACK in the OEM 115k mile parts, and see if the noise stops. i highly doubt it will. if it does, then i'll be amazed - it it doesnt, i'm gonna sell the damn thing
if it were me taking it apart, AGAIN, I'd probably put it back together with a new water pump and tensioner. New as in, take off the old "new parts" and put in new, new parts.
if that fixes it, just return the old "new parts".

OR, light that bitch on fire.
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Old 05-18-2018, 06:38 PM   #12
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I would recommend Precision Auto repair in Pleasanton. Their main focus has been Honda cars for decades. I used them way back when I had a high mileage Accord. I have friends with Hondas that have all of their work done there.

https://www.precisionautorepair.com/
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Old 05-20-2018, 10:40 AM   #13
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did you change the timing belt tensioner? their know to have internal leaks
also the drive belt tensioner goes bad. look for it bouncing around, take a wrench to the tensioner and see if noise go away

Last edited by K3GSXRRIDER; 05-20-2018 at 10:41 AM..
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Old 05-21-2018, 07:44 AM   #14
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almost all hondas will bend valves if timing belt breaks
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Old 05-21-2018, 02:04 PM   #15
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OP: If you did manage to slightly bend a valve when you turned the crank, and that valve is what's making the noise, I wouldn't run the engine any more than you absolutely have to. A bent valve means the metal has yielded and is now weaker than it used to be. And repeated opening and closing may then further weekend it to the point where the valve head falls off the valve stem. If that happens, you then destroy your cylinder head, the piston, and possibly the block by gouging the cylinder walls. Better to have it towed to a pro and have them fix it.
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