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Old 09-14-2018, 07:42 PM   #16
Finesse77
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Originally Posted by OaklandF4i View Post
I cant speak to what your bikes correct jetting is. If its withing a few sizes of stock it should at least run (and that seems to the case). Replace your worn/damaged parts, check to make sure your float level is right, not too low. Also make sure your fuel screw/passage is clean and not turned all the way in. Most bikes are somewhere between 2-3 turns out. Take your time to ensure all passages of the carb are clean and tubes are obstruction free. Also, assume you are starting the bike with your filter on and oiled (will run slightly lean without).
Thanks for the tip. I just ordered the air filter (pre oiled)
Iíll make sure the float level is right. And i will do an oil change also.
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Old 09-14-2018, 08:31 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Finesse77 View Post
Also, i am putting new pilot jet and main jet. 168 main and 45 pilot.
What you guys think about this jetting. Will be riding mostly in Carneige and metcalf for now. And maybe Hollister.
Sounds about right. I think that's what's in my WR450F with a YZ450F needle in the middle position. Plus o-ring mod for the accelerator pump and a bleed jet or something. I don't know if the latter are "must do" mods for the YZF. Should be the same carb, same engine.
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Old 09-14-2018, 08:52 PM   #18
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So i finally got the chance yesterday to pulled out the carburetor. And my mistake was only to cleaned the bottom part of the carburetor. I looked at the top and said nah, it looks clean. So i just cleaned and bottom part and put everything back. And the same thing happened. Bike only ran when choke is on. And back fire. I almost gave up. But i took the carb again and this time i cleaned from top to bottom. And i think i found the problem. See pics... The O ring is broken in half. So maybe thatís the culprit. I will try to go to yamaha dealer tomorrow, hopefully they carry this in stock.
Also, i am putting new pilot jet and main jet. 168 main and 45 pilot.
What you guys think about this jetting. Will be riding mostly in Carneige and metcalf for now. And maybe Hollister.
Thanks

That kinda looks like this little guy.... Iím one of those weirdos that save old parts forever
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Old 09-15-2018, 01:51 AM   #19
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45 pilot- Bike completely warmed up- Start with the fuel screw about 3/4 turn out, work from there.
I normally use a 42, screw 1 1/2~ 1 3/4 out.

Make sure to carefully check that vacuum release plate for signs of wear. Hopefully it's OK, about a 100 bucks to replace.
Remember which way is up when you reinstall it, lots of folks accidentally mount it upside down.
https://www.crfsonly.com/howto/keihi...al-crf450r.php

He mentions using the correct Phillips screwdriver- Ever wonder, while working on your bike, that your Phillips screwdriver never fits properly and winds up stripping the heads, then blaming it on "Cheap OEM" screws? Actually the screws aren't Phillips, they're JIS (Different pitch). If you don't have a set of dedicated JIS screwdrivers, now's the time..
(They make great Xmas presents)
https://www.mcmaster.com/jis-(japane...)-screwdrivers

Here's a good place for carb parts without breaking the bank.
http://jetsrus.com/

Last edited by dbc; 09-15-2018 at 04:25 AM..
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Old 09-20-2018, 05:49 AM   #20
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So i cleaned the carburetor from top to bottom. Replaced the floating valve seal, install a new pilot jet of 45 and new main jet of 168.
I started it up itís still doing the same thing. Bike only runs on choke, back fire and dies when choke is off.
So i took out the carb again and inspect and clean again. While doing that, i noticed that the fuel screw is missing, as in nothing in there. Not even the stock fuel screw that came with the carburetor. I attached a pic.
Sorry for my ignorance, but how important is the fuel screw. Without it, would the bike run or dies. Like i mentioned before, i acquired this bike and donít know the history.
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Old 09-20-2018, 07:41 AM   #21
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That is absolutely necessary, bIke will nor rUn wit out it. Get a steel extended screw so you can adjust it without tools.
Zipty or scotts make some.

There are a small spring, washer and o ring that go in there with the screw. Make sure the old ones aren't still in there when you install the new setup
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Old 09-20-2018, 07:52 AM   #22
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That is absolutely necessary, bIke will nor rUn wit out it. Get a steel extended screw so you can adjust it without tools.
Zipty or scotts make some.

There are a small spring, washer and o ring that go in there with the screw. Make sure the old ones aren't still in there when you install the new setup
This!
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Old 09-20-2018, 08:42 AM   #23
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And that plate on the slide with the damaged o-ring, make sure you put it in the right way. It's easy to put it in upside down and you'd be chasing conflicting jetting symptoms foooreverrrrr.
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Old 09-20-2018, 10:25 AM   #24
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45 pilot- Bike completely warmed up- Start with the fuel screw about 3/4 turn out, work from there.
I normally use a 42, screw 1 1/2~ 1 3/4 out.

Make sure to carefully check that vacuum release plate for signs of wear. Hopefully it's OK, about a 100 bucks to replace.
Remember which way is up when you reinstall it, lots of folks accidentally mount it upside down.
https://www.crfsonly.com/howto/keihi...al-crf450r.php

He mentions using the correct Phillips screwdriver- Ever wonder, while working on your bike, that your Phillips screwdriver never fits properly and winds up stripping the heads, then blaming it on "Cheap OEM" screws? Actually the screws aren't Phillips, they're JIS (Different pitch). If you don't have a set of dedicated JIS screwdrivers, now's the time..
(They make great Xmas presents)
https://www.mcmaster.com/jis-(japane...)-screwdrivers

Here's a good place for carb parts without breaking the bank.
http://jetsrus.com/
Quote:
Originally Posted by byke View Post
And that plate on the slide with the damaged o-ring, make sure you put it in the right way. It's easy to put it in upside down and you'd be chasing conflicting jetting symptoms foooreverrrrr.
Quote:
Originally Posted by augustiron View Post
That is absolutely necessary, bIke will nor rUn wit out it. Get a steel extended screw so you can adjust it without tools.
Zipty or scotts make some.

There are a small spring, washer and o ring that go in there with the screw. Make sure the old ones aren't still in there when you install the new setup
++++ 1 Bike wont run right.

Tusk also makes a extended fuel screw for $12. Makes tuning sooo much easier. In addition to making sure the old oring isnt still in there when you intall the new one, make sure actually use all the parts on the new one. IE oring, washer, spring.
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Last edited by OaklandF4i; 09-20-2018 at 10:27 AM..
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Old 09-20-2018, 11:10 AM   #25
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Thanks guys. I just order a Fuel adjustment screw from Rocky mountain. Anxiously waiting.
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Old 09-24-2018, 02:19 PM   #26
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Bike is all up and running good. Just install a set of tires also and just waiting on October 1 for red season.
Just one more project. I need to replace the fork seals, itís leaking. I just ordered a cap wrench tool and the seals. But i am trying to search on what can i use as an alternative for the fork seal driver. Any suggestions? I hear i can use a PVC pipe. I am trying to avoid spending $65 for it.
Thanks in advance
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Old 09-24-2018, 03:12 PM   #27
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Bike is all up and running good. Just install a set of tires also and just waiting on October 1 for red season.
Just one more project. I need to replace the fork seals, itís leaking. I just ordered a cap wrench tool and the seals. But i am trying to search on what can i use as an alternative for the fork seal driver. Any suggestions? I hear i can use a PVC pipe. I am trying to avoid spending $65 for it.
Thanks in advance


You can get away without using either a bullet or driver, but you get can both for about $40 via RockyMtnAtvMc. Motion Pro or Tusk. Split PVC pip does work, but is so much easier and better with a weighted tool. And chances are very high that if you ride consistently that you will be doing the job again.

Just a tip, get the KYB oil and dust seals. They come in the factory yamaha oem replacement kit along with the sliders. Worth the extra $20 as they generally last longer and have less stiction than many of the cheap aftermarket ones. Your forks will be happier and perform better.
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Old 09-24-2018, 03:38 PM   #28
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+1 to CJ. I've got an old homemade driver someone made from a chunk of solid round steel. I have to use a towel to keep it from scratching the forks, which I don't really like, but it's super heavy and that I do like because I don't have to hit it with a hammer, just slide it a few times and you're done. You gotta do some tapping with PCV, so be careful if you go that route.

Personally, I rarely pass up an opportunity to buy a cool tool, because they *always* come in handy down the road. Still, I've never bought the bullet tool, though I used to use them all the time at work. I just use a ziplock back with no lube(hehe). Also, I'd recommend installing the seals totally dry. Some seals come with grease on them and those have leaked within a short period 100% of the time, whereas as it's the exact opposite if I do it all dry(hehe). YMMV, but it's been very binary for me.
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Old 09-24-2018, 05:57 PM   #29
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You need two different tools or a two-in-one tool. The large cap tool and the smaller cartridge tool.



Oh yeah, plus the holder. I guess that's three.

Break the caps loose before loosening the triple clamps. This may not be possible due to handlebars and bar clamps.

A split PVC ghetto tool works but you'll miss having a hammer weight. You could get some metal pipe of the appropriate size. The Tusk tool is a step up but it isn't amazing.

RockyMountain sells a KYB fork rebuild kit with seals and bushings for about $50. Get that and some 5 wt oil.

I found these videos the most helpful. RM also has some vids for the KYB 48.


youtu.be/vrafDhaHbKc

youtu.be/rGjUpxEMrT0
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Old 09-25-2018, 04:46 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by Finesse77 View Post
Bike is all up and running good. Just install a set of tires also and just waiting on October 1 for red season.
Just one more project. I need to replace the fork seals, itís leaking. I just ordered a cap wrench tool and the seals. But i am trying to search on what can i use as an alternative for the fork seal driver. Any suggestions? I hear i can use a PVC pipe. I am trying to avoid spending $65 for it.
Thanks in advance
I have both fork tools if you need to borrow them and save the cash right now
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