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Old 02-10-2018, 04:25 PM   #16
ratsblast
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Whatever you use make sure it is fresh. I just did a valve cover gasket on my dads focus. I had an old tube of ultra black. Came out kinda grainy, ended up needing to retap a screw so cleaned off the two small blobs of rtv, next day stuff hadnt set and was still gooey on the rag. Ended up using blue which did set up.
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Old 02-12-2018, 01:23 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Junkie View Post
I see various different varieties of Hondabond and Yamabond, suggestions on which one?
Yamabond-4. And as previously mentioned, there are preferred products over RTV that works better at pretty much sealing everything. Gasket-to-metal and metal-to-metal interfaces.
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Old 02-22-2018, 04:34 PM   #18
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I would agree with the Yamabond-4. Just make sure the surface is cleaned (and I won't be THAT guy to start talking about it). :-)
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Old 02-22-2018, 10:59 PM   #19
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Threebond 1207b is what HRC uses on their cases and can purchased locally from Scuderia
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Old 02-23-2018, 10:02 AM   #20
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replace the stator on the dr650 this week and learned something new. red rtv on the gasket guarantees it will leak. had to order the gasket again and this time installing it dry first.if it does leak, i'd picked up a can of permatex high tack just in case....

Last edited by spdt509; 02-23-2018 at 10:03 AM..
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Old 02-23-2018, 02:56 PM   #21
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Threebond 1207b is what HRC uses on their cases and can purchased locally from Scuderia
Interesting. Honda themselves are not using Hondabond products?
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Old 02-23-2018, 04:26 PM   #22
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Interesting. Honda themselves are not using Hondabond products?
I'm sure Honda manufacturing uses HB, but also not terribly surprising if HRC uses higher spec stuff for "racing".

I learned about the HRC x Threebond 1207b from an ex-HRC mechanic when I was rebuilding my NSR. Even has an HRC part number: 88887-NX4-000

Last edited by apf; 02-23-2018 at 04:30 PM..
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Old 02-23-2018, 08:04 PM   #23
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IIRC threebond makes yamabond and hondabond
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Old 02-25-2018, 12:52 AM   #24
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IIRC threebond makes yamabond and hondabond
I understand that, but typically big manufacturers like Honda will specify a custom formulation from Threebond, so a Threebond-branded product will never be a direct replacement for a Hondabond product.

Does this mean that HRC considers Hondabond an inferior formulation to stock Threebond products? Apparently so, which is a bit shocking given the Japanese culture.
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Old 02-25-2018, 06:02 AM   #25
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update: waited 2 days before i respond, the permatex high tack works. gasgacinch was recommended by procycle but not available around here....
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Old 02-25-2018, 08:40 AM   #26
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When I was at Berkeley Honda Yamaha picking up Yamabond they told me that a lot of Porsche and VW guys use it between the cases, and buy it there. I asked a Porsche/VW engine builder friend and indeed he uses it and buys it there.
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Old 02-26-2018, 10:07 AM   #27
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When I was at Berkeley Honda Yamaha picking up Yamabond they told me that a lot of Porsche and VW guys use it between the cases, and buy it there. I asked a Porsche/VW engine builder friend and indeed he uses it and buys it there.
I use Yamabond, my only criticism is that it cures harder than Toyota seal and is much harder to remove after drying. That's why I typically use Toyotaseal. It applies easily and cleans off with a bit of scotchbrite.
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Old 02-28-2018, 01:41 PM   #28
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Threebond, yamabond, hondabond, -----bond, they work best for me. I rarely have long term success with RTV in petroleum sutuations. Permatex blue works for water pumps for coolant systems but thats it. Never have a differential cover on my trucks leak with threebond.
+1 and +1 for AFM199 to NOT USE RTV
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Old 03-12-2018, 07:06 PM   #29
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The real question is does a brand of RTV exist that has a cap that actually works? I swear every single time I take the RTV out of my tool box it has vulcanized at the end of the tube and I have to dig a hole with a pick to get it to come out again. Serious question.
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Old 03-12-2018, 07:14 PM   #30
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The real question is does a brand of RTV exist that has a cap that actually works? I swear every single time I take the RTV out of my tool box it has vulcanized at the end of the tube and I have to dig a hole with a pick to get it to come out again. Serious question.
Here's a tip. When you take the cap off, if it's used goo, clean it out, preferably with a Qtip. When you finish with the goo tube, wipe it down with a rag so that there's no goo on the threads at all. Then get a tiny bit of axle grease and apply it to the threads. Only put the cap on if it's clean. If you do that every time, you stand a chance of getting some life out of the cap. Half the time I just use a long bolt and shove it into the tube an inch or so.
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