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SV650 Power Mods: Charting the Progress

quasi888

Moto babies
Joined
Jul 31, 2003
Location
Roseville, CA
Moto(s)
'12 Aprilia Shiver 750
Name
Dave
Earlier this summer I bought back my old SV650 from the friend I sold it to 2 years ago, and I decided to turn it into the project bike that I had always intended it to be. Of course, suspension upgrades were first on the list, but next in line were some badly needed improvements to transform this bike from a gutless weakling to a track-ready beast.

Over the past few months I've had my friends at Hare Racing provide dynamometer testing and advise me on my upgrade path. With a fairly stock configuration (Renegade slip-on exhaust, 1 shim on the needle), I got a baseline dyno reading of 65.1 HP and 41.1 ft-lbs of torque. Mmmmehhh, lower than I had hoped, but about average for a stock SV. Air-fuel was hovering around 14:1. Definitely lean, but then, most bikes come from the factory like this.

The list of power mods for first-generation SVs is well-known, so I went with a proven combination consisting of full exhaust (M4) and the following jetting changes: main jets upgraded from 137.5 to 152.5 (Factory Pro / Mikuni numbers); pilots upgraded from 15 to 17.5; 2 shims on the needles. Airbox was desnorkled. Back on the dyno, I got 69.91 HP and 42.75 ft-lbs. However, the bigger jets proved still too small for the modded airbox and exhaust, because A/F was now around 15:1!!!

Back to work. For the next phase, Fred Garzaro at Hare recommended I go up 2 main jet sizes (to 157.5) to try and richen the A/F up a bit, but I also did the well-known "03 cam swap". This basically involves opening up the top end, removing the exhaust cams, putting the intake cams in their place, and putting in 2nd-generation (2003+) SV650 intake cams back in the intake slots. (Thanks to Mackey Stingray for helping out on this.) Of course, with the new cams, checking valve clearances is highly advisable, and sure enough 5 of 8 valve shims had to be replaced.

Back to the dyno at Hare. I was surprised (and ecstatic) to find that she topped out at 76.6 HP, 44.88 ft-lbs. A nearly 18% improvement over stock, of which nearly 7HP can be attributed to the cams (and slight increase in jetting) alone! A/F was now a bit too rich, around 12:1. Fred recommended that if I go down to a 155 mainjet, not only will I get that down to a more optimal 13:1, but I should pick up a couple HP in the process. If I can top 78HP, that will represent a 20% improvement over stock -- outstanding for a motor with no head work.

Here's what we have so far:

Dyno_Comparison_1.gif


A/F for Stage II only:

af_stage2.gif


Stage 0: 65.1 HP @ 9000 RPM, 41.1 ft-lbs, 14:1. Renegade slip-on exhaust, 15 pilot jets, 137.5 main jets, 1 shim on needle.

Stage 1: 69.9 HP @ 9300 RPM, 42.75 ft-lbs, 15:1. M4 full exhaust, 17.5 pilot jets, 152.5 main jets, 2 shims on needle, desnorkled airbox.

Stage 2: 76.6 HP @ 9700 RPM, 44.88 ft-lbs, 12:1. Cam swap, M4 full exhaust, 17.5 pilot jets, 157.5 main jets, 2 shims on needle, desnorkled airbox.

Stage 0 to Stage 1 was a moderate but appreciable improvement. But the jump from Stage 1 to Stage 2 was VERY dramatic. I felt a difference immediately even at just 50% throttle heading down the street.

This whole process has been a valuable experience in gaining more in-depth wrenching skills beyond the usual routine maintenance; and it's great to have the dyno sheets not only confirm what you feel on the ol' butt dyno, but also to provide some visual indication of your powerband and how your air-fuel mixture is doing. Thanks go out to Fred and Hare Racing for the dyno runs and the tuning advice, as well as Mackey for coming over late at night to oversee the Stage 2 operation. It was all worth it!
 
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nice good post, learn sumthin' new everyday!

wow, that's amazing! i never knew about the SV cam swap quick fix, but I haven't become a SV lemming yet, so go figure. I wish my hawk racebike made those #'s or close, but alas, she's a 1988 w/ a wierd 3 valve twin plug head and apparently kind of a weak stock crank, so 54.6rwhp was all she could muster. I will build my own full exhaust to replace the 2 bros i have on it now. It'll be somewhat smaller to enhance exhaust gas velocity and make for better scavenging. now, that's after I finish building my first muffler (i lost my 2 bros pipe in my femu shattering wreck 23 days ago...it's somewhere in the woods, but I just want to buid and test....duh..AND SELL my own pipes as a way to learn and make some money w/o a current "real job" being racked up w/ a carbon fiber/stainless kickstand screwed into your femur and tibia seems to put a bit of a damper on what I can do, but i still plan on TIG'ing the muffler together tomorrow, going to the drag strip w/ my friend who has the TIG tomorrow night, then taking saturday off and going to summit point for a wera race sunday to watch, shoot photos and market S&M Racing parts/services. Turbo kits will be in the works as soon as I get my shop mate into my basement...in a week or so.
Nice post, very informative and it's nice to have quantitative dyno data to prove your results. nuthin' like area under the curve, baby! (and the fact that I can insure my 1990 zx7 AND hawk w/ a turbo on the ZX for only $217 / year, and that's w/ a DUI 2.5 years ago....and it was $617 for ONLY the hawk in CA...mammoth....damned crazy wrecking CA riders (of which I became one a couple times this year)
as far as my carbon/stainless leg fixator goes, i think it would make a better kickstand than fairing bracket although it'll do both well. it would be a good reminder of what NOT to do each time i flick it up and go for a twist on the road...remember those 8 days in the hospital? 39 staples? box full o' sheet metal screws w/ the titanium plate? this kick stand which used to keep your knee straight so the kindling-looking bottom of your femur could heal?!!! well, don't fuck it, tuck it so much through every turn, calm down and be patient, the next track day is only X daze away.... there's always another corner to slay and only ride w/ those who follow rules u set out in the beginning, like NO PASSING EXCEPT ON THE STRAIGHTAWAYS, DUMBASS!!!! now i know he had 3x the horsepower, but there was a Loooooooong straight only 2 corners away, and he was getting impatient. it was still my fault, i was at the controls and should have just thrown the corner away w/ lots of brakes and a liesurely turn, but i was in the zone, dragging my toes a lot and dind't think that in the 1 second of bad decisions i made....ooops. live and learn...and heal quick! 18 more daze till the kickstand comes out and I can bend my knee some and drive my parents automatic maxima, i hope. being rideless and "in jail" blows, but it brings lots of introspection and time to think and create and such.
ok, i'll stop ramblin'! :teeth
great post man!:)
 
SWETNGBLTS said:
Thanks for sharing some helpful information.

1 50 8 E LONG, BRIAN S03 1:55:334
2 43 106 E SPENCER, KURT S03 1:56:568
3 37 166 E BUTLER, JASON S01 1:57:954
4 32 914 E METCALF, MICHAEL K. S99 1:58:090
5 27 211 E DAKER, JOHN R. S00 1:57:620
6 22 728 N TULCHINSKY, AARON S99 1:57:695


Pffffft......as if you NEED any helpful information. ;)

Schump, my head hurts just reading your sig :laughing
 
from the look of your dyno chart i'd say a little playing with needle position is needed to bump up the hp in the 5~7 rpm range.
 
elskipador said:
from the look of your dyno chart i'd say a little playing with needle position is needed to bump up the hp in the 5~7 rpm range.

I've edited my first post to include the current a/f plot, but here it is again:

af_stage2.gif


Given that 5-7k is a range where I am now most rich, would you then recommend that I go back to 1 shim on the needle to try and lean it out a bit? (Keeping in mind, I will still be going down a main jet size to 155.)
 
quasi888 said:
1 50 8 E LONG, BRIAN S03 1:55:334
2 43 106 E SPENCER, KURT S03 1:56:568
3 37 166 E BUTLER, JASON S01 1:57:954
4 32 914 E METCALF, MICHAEL K. S99 1:58:090
5 27 211 E DAKER, JOHN R. S00 1:57:620
6 22 728 N TULCHINSKY, AARON S99 1:57:695


Pffffft......as if you NEED any helpful information. ;)



Well believe it or not i do. I'm running a stock sv out there right now, maybe 60hp, so i eventually plan on doing some minor motor stuff like you.
 
wait til after the main jet change and then adjust it.
 
Something I need to research: what are the specs of the '00 intake cams compared to the '03+ exhaust cams? Are people just trying to save money by only buying two cams instead of four? Or does the half/half setup work better?

My '00 came with '03 heads on it, with '03 cams in the stock positions. (Eventually I had adjustable gears installed and the cams timed; after recently adding FCRs to the mix, and just last month a 7000-mile '03 motor, I ride around with a huge grin under my helmet. Can't wait to get it on the track again next week.)
 
DaveToo said:
Something I need to research: what are the specs of the '00 intake cams compared to the '03+ exhaust cams? Are people just trying to save money by only buying two cams instead of four? Or does the half/half setup work better?

01 intake cam has more lift than the 03 exhaust cam, hence the preferred half-half configuration.
 
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I thought i read somewhere that removing one of three base or head gaskets adds more compression and is something to consider. Is this true for the sv?
 
kevo said:
How much do these weenie SV's weigh in race trim? :p

I have no idea, there are some very light ones out there. Zoran would know. Come out and play in the sv world Kev. Forget about wrenching all day and night on that smoker.
 
*jedi mind trick*

Aaron, you do not understand what Quasi888 is saying.. go on about your business and never visit this thread again..

*jedi mind trick off*

If you came back out with 78 HP, i'd be fuckt! Haha.. my motor is stock too, but the 03's have that cam already and I remapped. So I think I'm in the 75 range. I'm guessing your's is around 67-70 stock Aaron.
 
if only you all had leovince full systems. 2 words... podium contenders.

j/k :nerd
 
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