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Not another Baja ride report…

SRAD600

Active member
Joined
Feb 15, 2003
Location
Claremont, California
Moto(s)
broken one's
Name
Eldrick
BARF perks
AMA #3347697
Day 1

During our last ride down to Carrizo Plain, I mentioned to LeoJb that I was planning to do a ride to Baja this winter. He seemed mildly interested at the time. We discussed the trip a few more times and as the weeks went by it became clear that we were both serious about making a plan to ride to Mexico.

After many e-mails, we had a good set of viable tracks for a 10 day round trip ride from S.F. to Baja and back. Our plan was to take the big bikes, a pair of KTM990 adventures, and ride the entire way. No truck, no trailer, no air conditioning...no heat. :nchantr We planned to do some camping during the trip so our bikes were loaded down with tents, sleeping bags, water… etc.

Here are some teaser shots of the days to come:






We made our getaway just after rush hour on the morning of Friday January 24th. The plan was to meet up south of San Jose, then cruise down Highway 101 for the day. We wanted to cover miles today, but being the first day of the trip we also wanted to be careful not to hit it too hard. 101 was the perfect choice, not a bombing run to the border like Highway 5 south would have been and not too slow, since the point was to be in Mexico, as Highway 1 would have been. The plan was to end our day just north of the border near Tecate.



At the meet up spot, Leo and I greeted each other, exchanged pleasantries and looked over the recent modifications we’d each made to our bikes. Leo had done some welding to his kickstand to assist in sand parking, something I’d totally neglected to think about. Wonder if that would become an issue later on? :p We’d both bought new tires, “Pirelli Scorpion rally’s”, for the trip. As we were checking out the rubber, Leo noted that the tread pattern on my rear was very different than that of his rear. Humm…they’re both Pirelli Scorpion Rallys? Oh, but wait…what’s that…his is a 140/18 (as it should be), mine reads 120/18…uh oh. I ordered a 140/18 from one of the online retailers, received the tire wrapped in cardboard, and promptly put it in the corner of my garage until the night before the trip when I installed it. I’d never even noticed the size on the tire until it was way too late. Oh well, what better way to start an adventure right?





These photos were taken after the trip, but I was pretty concerned about the tire width for the first few days of the trip. The ride down the coast was pretty uneventful, 500+ miles of burning asphalt, as evidenced by a distinct lack of pictures. We rolled into San Diego around 9pm that night and performed a bit of maintenance to the bikes. A few loose bolts here, some last minute checks there and the bikes were good to go. We had an early dinner, then hit the hay in preparation for Day2 – Crossing the border.

Edit - If anyone knows the code to embed a spotwalla map, please clue me in. Thx.
 
More Baja for me too :ride
 
Can't get bored with more Baja. Especially with them teaser pics.

Subscribed....
 
Yay, Baja!! :ride

:party

That's exactly what I was saying...great place to ride.


Thanks, it was definitely a cool...(read chilly) ride, at least on the way back.

I'm so down with more Baja! Yes please.

Awesome, thanks for checking in.

More Baja for me too :ride

Feels like everyone went this year, so it's fun to compare notes.

I'm in! Cant wait to see the pics and hear about the routes. :thumbup
Yep, we were on much heavier machinery, but still had a great time.

Can't get bored with more Baja. Especially with them teaser pics.

Subscribed....

Thanks, the riding was anything but boring...once we hit Mexico that is. Day two should be up shortly. A birdie tells me LeoJb has some sweet video to share as well. Hopefully he'll chime in with that.
 
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Day 2

We woke up pretty early this morning considering I hadn’t set an alarm. I am NOT an early riser normally, but it seems like my internal clock was set a few hours ahead this whole trip. We got cleaned up, packed up and did some last minute checks.



Our route today would take us from California, across the border at Tecate, over to the Sea of Cortez side of the peninsula and hopefully we’d end up at Mikes Sky Rancho. I’ve been told Mikes is “overhyped” , but we decided it’d be fun to check the place out anyway, it is after all a part of Baja Racing history. Anyway, packed and ready to go, the iron horses await our departure.





We ended up taking Hwy 94 over to Tecate road to the border. This was a fun, twisty stretch of highway, even on knobbies.











The border crossing was pretty easy, just make sure you don’t try and park in front of the Aduana building! The border patrol does not like that. :nchantr

I went inside first, and Leo hung out with the bikes. This way we didn’t have to worry about removing anything, making our transition into Mexico that much faster. I walk into the main office, and the place is packed. There’s soon a line behind me and in front. I got to talking with an older guy who was heading down to his new vacation home on the beach. He told me he’d bought the place for less than $5k U.S. and was planning on spending some quality time there; sounds awesome to me. When it was finally my turn, I was trying to converse with the customs agent, but my Spanish “es muy mal”. A guy in the room asked me why I was coming to Mexico if I couldn’t speak Spanish…I laughed and said (in Spanish) I can speak Spanish, but very badly…no offense. He laughed a big laugh, and thanked me for trying. His wife then translated for me…cool. After I got out of there Leo went in and was back in like five minutes…no line for him.

Our next task was to change some dollars to pesos. This would seem easy, but for newbs like us, not so much. We rode around in circles a few times, trying to find an open bank. Once we did actually find one that was open, I went in, waited in line, only to be told they could not change my money unless I had an account…bummer. Our next best bet was one of the currency exchange places dotting the border area. I picked one that was basically a small trailer (think airstream) with plywood nailed to the walls and bars across the window.



It’s open to the street, and a woman sits behind the counter and hands you lots of money…sounds safe right? I should have snapped a photo, but I wanted to scoot with so many pesos burning a hole in my pocked, so we jetted out of the city.

Not long afterwards we were free of the city and into the open country. When I say open, I mean it. The views go on forever in this part of Baja.





We hopped off the libre road and headed into the hills skirting Guadalupe Canyon and headed into the Constitution National Park. The riding went from graded dirt roads to semi-sandy graded roads. We wound our way around the park both enjoying a brisk pace and trying to take in the views. It’s not easy to do both really, and I think we were still thinking and moving at our regular (fast) pace at this point. We stopped at Laguna Hansen to take some photos, at least this way we could prove we were actually there.











The area was absolutely beautiful, with crisp and clean air (unless you were riding behind Leo…). All was well in the world. After a short break we continued on our way to Mike’s. The sun was starting to get low in the sky, which made riding in the dust a bit more difficult, but still enjoyable. We came into a bend and saw a military truck at the side of the road and they were waving frantically at us in the universal sign to slow down. As we got closer we could see two guys sitting on the right hand side of the road, and two KTM’s on their kickstands on the left. Riding past the military truck I noticed a lump in the road, covered by a stained magenta white sheet. My eyes were drawn to it, the stark contrast between the magenta and the light brown sandy silt that made up the road. As my mind registered what I was seeing, I unconsciously snapped my head in the opposite direction and locked my eyes on the passing trees. Extremely tall majestic pine trees, with soft silty sand between them. Leo, didn’t stop…I didn’t stop…the military were on the scene and they wanted us to move. We continued on our way out of the park towards Hwy 3, sun now setting, dust filling the air and with heavy heavy hearts. A convoy of military vehicles, police, and medical vehicles passed us heading back to the scene of the accident, their wake blotted out what was left of the evening sun. We slowed to a crawl for a while, taking our time to reach the highway. Once we stopped, we took a moment to acknowledge what we’d just witnessed and let it settle into us for a moment. I never did find out that young man’s name, but I want to take a moment now to say rest in peace brother. I’ve never seen that first hand before, and I hope never to see it again. The sky was the most beautiful amber that evening.



Having settled our nerves, we made a quick run in the opposite direction for fuel, before turning around and heading to Valle de Trinidad. I especially like (the name) Valle de Trinidad, having been born on the island of Trinidad in the Caribbean. We rode through the town and up the road to Mikes. If anyone has ridden the first road to Mikes, you know that it’s not the easiest road to ride on big bikes. Add to that the fact that our bikes were loaded with gear, and oh ya…it was dark, and you can begin to see how interesting our ride had just become. :ride

This road has some particularly deep sand sections that were a challenge at night. Also, the GPS track we were following…ok I was following (since I have the daylight bright LED lights) took us off the main road and down a sand whoop section. Fortunately we didn’t notice at the time, since it was so dark an all. We eventually pulled into Mikes around 9:30pm and the place was packed! I mean, every single room was booked, packed. Leo and I pulled in and everyone else was already drunk, and lined up by the walkway to the pool, where the moto parking is located. You have to ride up a little ramp, then down a long hall, then next to a pool, past a bunch of drunken dudes…fun fun fun late at night after a long ride. A nice guy with a smaller KTM moved his bike onto the grass so I could park on the cement…awesome.

I have no photos of this night, but suffice it to say that the place was insane. There were tons of people, lots of beer, ladies of the evening, riding stories, kids running around…everything good/bad all in one place. It was like a high octane circus on steroids, I was honestly a bit overwhelmed! Amidst all this, Leo and I pitched our tents right next to the pool, since there was nowhere else to stay. The owner had no problem with it, and we were tired so our camp spot on night two was secured. A guy handed me a bottle of French wine that was about ¾ full, he says “nobody will drink wine with me, and I can’t finish the bottle, everyone wants beer…take the wine!” I happily obliged him, and damn if it wasn't the good stuff! An hour or two later the party was still going, so I put in my best ear plugs and hunkered down in my tent. Loud music, laughter, free flowing beer and random debauchery does not assist me in my desire for sleep, but somehow I manage to crash out and sleep until the next morning. I was still seeing images of the young man in the park, hopefully this would fade with time, but I needed to use this as a reminder to meter my speed in the upcoming days.
 
Subscribed :Popcorn

Seeing a guy under a sheet is tough. I saw it once too and it shook me for a couple hours. (MC vs. dump truck in Brazil)

Great RR, looking forward to more. Also, where are the pics of the debauchery? :x
 
Wow, what an Adventure and now you have picked up a ghost for the rest of your ride. I imagine he crept into your heads more than once through out your trip. It seems appropriate to have ended the day with a party and debauchery; a wake of sorts for the nameless young man under the sheet.

Thanks for sharing with us.

Looking forward to the next installment.

:ride
 
Subscribed :Popcorn

Seeing a guy under a sheet is tough. I saw it once too and it shook me for a couple hours. (MC vs. dump truck in Brazil)

Great RR, looking forward to more. Also, where are the pics of the debauchery? :x

Thanks, I didn't take any pic's, my camera sucks at night photos.
You're right though, that was very tough to see, and I can't imagine it ever getting easier.

Wow, what an Adventure and now you have picked up a ghost for the rest of your ride. I imagine he crept into your heads more than once through out your trip. It seems appropriate to have ended the day with a party and debauchery; a wake of sorts for the nameless young man under the sheet.

Thanks for sharing with us.

Looking forward to the next installment.

:ride

You know I didn't think of it like that, but you're right. It very well could have been a celebration of his life.



Thanks for that John, it makes me feel better somehow to know his name, and that his life is being celebrated. Rest in peace Dana.
 
Day 3



Crank crank crank…chug…..brap, brap braaaaaaaaaaaaapppppp! That’s the sound I awoke to on day three. Apparently a few of the larger groups of bikes were making early starts. Since their bikes were right next to our tents, we got ringside seats to their chilly morning startup procedures. Yay! :nchantr



My normal sleep patterns do not see me out of bed before 8am, but after the second wave of bikes started, revved their motors and left, I was out of my sleeping bag by 8:30am. I sleepily inched my way out of my tent, trying desperately to retain some of the warmth my “Big Agnes” held. While rubbing away the sleep, and greeting Leo for the day, the owner walks up to us and says hello. We start talking and it was at this point he asks for $30 US to repay him for the pleasure of camping next to his pool. During my discussion with him the previous night, he made no mention of this fee, but it was a bit late to say “no thank-you”, so we forked out the money and handed it over. The amount really didn’t bother me too much, but I’d rather have been given the fee prior to camping. Oh well…not a bad view first thing in the morning.



We had some scrambled eggs, beans and tortillas for breakfast and proceeded to pack up the bikes. Luckily, no one had stolen either of our rear tires during the night. There was only one other KTM990 at mikes last night, he had managed to roast his rear tube and tire so completely, that the bike was loaded into the back of their chase truck for the remainder of the trip. Just about every one of his buddies jokingly threatened to steal one of our rear tires during the night, fortunately they were all a bit too inebriated to make good on that threat. :laughing

Rear tires intact, we hopped aboard the 990’s and rolled out of Mikes. We took the east road out of Mikes, bypassing the town of Valle de Trinidad, and spitting us out on Highway 3 for a few miles. We hummed along for a while enjoying the sunshine and the warming air as the sun rose higher into the morning sky.

Our track had us heading back off into the dirt near Valle de San Felipe. This was one fun track, it started out as light sand on top of a hard dirt base, fairly flat and super-fast with lots of medium/little dips and humps. This is the kind of track that, if you are so inclined, you can reach some truly stupid speeds on. The kind of speeds that bottom out your suspension over small rises, and make you giggle like a five year old the entire time. As if that were not enough fun, the track eventually turns off of the dirt road into a great big dry lake bed.





Stupid, stupid antics ensued. So much fun.



While I was stopped on the lakebed to take some photos, I noticed Leo going past me while still on the main dirt road (About 800 feet away from my current position). I hurriedly packed up my camera, and threw my backpack back on and revved out the ADV to try and catch him. I stayed in the lakebed while looking for his dust cloud on the road…Damn, I thought, he must be flying! So I wicked it up to 65, still no sight of him…75…80…."What the hell?" That road was pretty sandy, Leo ,must be on rails. Turns out Leo had seen me on the lakebed and stopped, turned around and went back to meet me. As he did that, I took off trying to catch him, never noticing that he'd stopped.

Just then, out of the left corner of my eye, I notice two KTMs parked up next to a fenced in wooden building. I pull over to say hello and realize that Leo and I met this couple at Mikes earlier this morning. They are a husband and wife team from Bend Or, out riding their 450/530’s. I asked if they’d seen Leo go by and they said no, so I assumed Leo must still be behind me somewhere. I hopped off my bike and it turns out that this little shack is actually a store…in the middle of a dry lakebed?!? :wtf Cool, I’ll go for a coke please! It was the coldest soda I’ve ever had in my life…from a shack with little/no electricity, so awesome. A few minutes later Leo pulls up, we shoot the $hit with the Oregon couple and then after adding some oil to their 450, they head out.







After cooling off, we re-mount and ride off ourselves. I’m in front this morning for some reason, and am enjoying some dust free riding. At Canon las Guevitas we turn out of the lakebed into some really deep, gnarly sand. Axle swallowing sand…stand on your pegs,weight back and hit the gas sand. I was moving along pretty well, as well as a laden 500lb bike can move in sand, and getting into a rhythm with my machine. I’ll be clear here, I am not a fan of sand riding. The bike is usually all over the place, and it affords you no time to rest, the second you rest or try to slow down, you go down. Well, I was bombing along and trying to keep my speed up. A loaded 990 does best at about 50mph in deep sand…sounds stupid right? 50…in deep sand, but this is the point where the bike gets on top of it and just floats. It’s really not that much of a problem until you try and slow down. Well, as I’m floating along on my sandy trek, I round a corner to find not one, but two sand rails stopped in the middle of the two track. They’re staggered, so that there is no room to go by on either side, even if I could have climbed the 2’ sand berm on either side of the track.

At this point my options are a) try and change direction fast and go up/over the sand berm. B) try and haul down the bike before making contact. I shoulda gone with A. Hauling down a bike in deep sand is a balancing act, you get on the binders and the front end sinks, once the front end sinks to a point you no longer have directional control and become a passenger, so you hit the throttle to bring the front tire back on top of the sand and get on the brakes again…then repeat. I managed to do this three times, before the front wheel jerked to the steering stops and yanked the bars from my hands (even with a Scotts stabilizer fitted) and tossed me to the ground in a flurry of sand and dust.
 
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Day 3 Continued

Apologies flowed like water and the guys with the sand rails had my bike up before I could get myself up. I pushed my bike off the trail and informed them that I had a buddy following closely, so could they please move their buggies out of the way. Not three minutes after the second rail was moved, Leo comes flying onto the scene. He manages to stop and parks to one side while I perform some minor repairs. It turns out these guys had lost the clutch in one of the buggies and were trying to figure out how to get it fixed. We tried to offer any tools/assistance we could, but they elected to try to make it back without a clutch, I hope they made it OK.

Once I got the bike sorted out, Leo and I got going again and headed to San Felipe for Lunch. We had some great food on the Malecon overlooking the sea. For some reason I did not pull out my camera much on this day, I still hadn’t managed to slow myself or my pace enough to think about enjoying the trip, instead of enjoying the ride, this would all soon change.

At San Felipe I suggested that we try and find a beach for some sand riding. That did not go well….



We found our opening at Rancho Percebu, and the sand in the area was very soft and silty. Traction was at a premium, and with loaded bikes, very hard to come by. As evidenced by the photo above, we did manage to find a road out to a beach. We should have known by the fact that everyone in the immediate vicinity seemed to sit up and fixate on us as we rode out onto the beach on our loaded bikes. I clicked into second gear, and quickly realized that that was not going to happen. Back into first gear, engine revved out to 6k, I could make a bit of progress. I rode out past the lowlands up onto this sand berm that was about 12 feet high. The view was pretty amazing, but again I made the mistake of slowing down…and got stuck. Leo followed and promptly did the same. After a good laugh, we managed to dislodge both bikes and ride out of there…the locals still looking on in amazement (bemusement?).



After that little excursion, and all the sand riding earlier, we were happy to tool along doing some easy road riding while headed to our final destination for the day. The inland coast is so warm and peaceful, it’s so worth the trip just to cruise along and see the sights.



Our final destination for the evening was a Palapa just across the landing strip from Alfonsinas'. This place was amazing, if you want to find a place in Baja to disappear for a while, this would be my choice. There is one long, relatively empty, sand filled stretch of beach. When we arrived we had one other neighbor who was about six palapa’s away from us…awesome.









We set about setting up our tents and putting up our gear to air out. It had been one long sweaty day of somewhat difficult riding, and the smell from our clothing reflected that. Luckily our Palapa had lots of little nails driven into it from all angles, perfect little hangers. Once everything was set up, we decided to head over to Alfonsina’s for dinner. We met up with the couple from Bend, who were staying there, and had a fun time recounting the day’s events and eating some great food over a cold one (or two).

Evenings end early in Baja, as I’m guessing they try to preserve power by minimizing evening lighting. As the server turned out the lights, we said our goodbyes and headed back over to our Palapa. We pulled out some camp chairs and sat around listening to the sounds of the ocean while watching the most amazing sunset ever. It was like someone had lit the sky on fire.







As we’re sitting there taking in the fact that we are in Baja…I realize that this place, the Palapa, the beach, everything about it…is the quintessential definition of what I imagine when I think of Baja. I’d finally made it.

Right about then I heard a deep breath, a breath so deep it could not have been released by any human. I looked at Leo, “Did you hear that?” Fortunately for my sanity, he had also heard the sound. We got quiet and listened…first the sound of water, then a deep breath, then spray, then water again. “Holy crap, that was close…”. I’m not sure what the animal was, but there was more than one of them, and they were directly in front of us in the water. We never did find them with our light, and it was now almost completely dark, but we heard them for quite a while. One passed by us and went down the beach a bit, while the other stayed in front of us for some time before moving along. It’s like Mother Nature was saying “Hello, and welcome to my beach, sleep well”... I did.
 
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On day 7 of our 9 day trip my camera was stolen off my bike. However, I also had a Contour camera with me (similar to a GoPro), and a lot of the time I had it on and set to take a picture every 60 seconds. As you can imagine, that's a lot of photos to sort through, and a lot of them are pretty random.


Tecate


Looking for the elusive money exchange


Eldrick off to get some pesos


Heading out of town (finally)


First tank of Pemex Rojo


On the way towards Parque Nacional Constitucion


Some of the sandy sections. Not really deep, but enough to keep you on your toes. Literally.


Big rockier here, but still a pretty decent road


Getting close to Laguna Hanson


Laguna Hanson. Really pretty area.


Taking a break. Notice the very cool lookout tower in the background.


Leaving the area of the park with the setting sun right in our eyes. Bit disconcerting especially given that we had just passed the accident site. It took all our concentration to stay focused on the road.
 
Nice :thumbup

It's always so nice to be included on the ride.

:ride
 
Awesome trip report.

Question on money. Last time I was in Mexico I was able to use my ATM card in a lot of ATM's so I didn't really have to mess with changing money very much. Did you ever try this?
Also, when I've been to Baja I found lots of folks were totally willing to take my US Dollars to pay for stuff, and sometimes they gave me straight up exchange rates.
 
I had a few shots at Mike's Sky Ranch, but all of them were taken with the soon-to-be-stolen camera. Too bad - I even had a shot of one of the "dancers" after she exited the bathroom with one of the guests. Wild night. Perhaps the lack of photos is a blessing. So, here's a short video of our ride across the dry lakebed after we left Mike's Sky Ranch. Laguna Diablo. You may want to turn down the audio.
[YouTube]ULB1k6bhaFs[/YouTube]
 
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