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Old 04-28-2013, 03:51 AM   #1
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The Essential Trials Stickie

there seem to be growing interest in this amazing sport. If you get a chance to ride a trials bike, you will understand why.

Here are some cool threads:

Off-Road Training 1,688 Views

40th Annual British-American Cup 551 Views

Trials Bike Buyers Guide 221 Views

The Carr Ranch 199 Views
Hodaka Ace 90. I've been riding these things too long. What can I say? How about that Combat Wombat?

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and get a dirtbike! preferably a 2 stroke... Or... Electric!
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Old 04-28-2013, 05:59 AM   #2
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What would you do with a Trials bike?

Putt Around the Backyard:

See post on Backyard Set-ups:
+1 If you have an electric trials bike on stealth mode a la SACTOPITS.


Originally Posted by undertheoaks View Post
Butch fun riding with you there today, my first outing on a trials bike and yes OMG fun !!! Every black diamond trail there is a big green easy on a trials bike no kidding. Then later went out to the lower half of the park to search out some of the rocky trails, and again looking for more difficult stuff then there is out there. Trials are a blast!!!! Hooked for life. And the trials area is fun to. Thanks Metcalf Rangers And thanks Drew for hooking me on trials..try it and you get addicted careful.
Originally Posted by Butch View Post
Great riding there today. I rode a trials bike on the Four Fingers and Snake trails. OMG was that fun. Seriously, huge fun. There was a guy in the middle of a tricky uphill gully and he was er, stopped, like blocking the approach to a big nasty... We just rode around him. Trials bikes are pretty amazing.
Long Distance Trials: Scottish Six Days Trials

Originally Posted by undertheoaks View Post
Wow!! I thought I knew how to ride..guess not, at least standing up and not dabbing. I think I dog paddled up that canyon heading into check 3. I too, like the others have a lot to learn and Im loving it! Too bad I forgot my inhaler and had to pass after the first loop due to wheezing..damn! next time. It was nice meeting everyone and yes lets ride/practice. Im looking to do the Cow Pile in Marin next anyone else ? When is BARF going to set up a Trials page ?
Originally Posted by The Toe Cutter View Post
Great meeting you guys as well! I was pretty tired by the end of the third loop. Agree with SVJ, there is so much to learn but look forward to the satisfaction of getting better!
Urban Trials:


Classic Trials:

Outdoor Observed Trials:
Note FIM 'Non Stop' Rules for 2013

Indoor X-Trials:


Bicycle Trials:

The current breed of World Champions come from Bicycle Trial and cross-train on 'Bicis'. I personally think that bicycle trials is much more difficult than moto trials. I prefer moto trials but play on a 'mod'. Link to more details:

Extreme Enduro:

All the Top Hard Enduro riders come from a Trials background

What happens when you apply a trials background to dirt bike riding?:

Building a Solid Foundation for the Next Generation:
If you are thinking of getting your 5 year old a CRF50/PW50/TTR50... reconsider.

Sidecar Trials: Go Overseas!

Last edited by seavoyage; 05-13-2013 at 09:27 PM..
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:51 AM   #3
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Old 04-28-2013, 09:58 AM   #4
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Awesome thread. Great Addition to dirty barf
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:19 PM   #5
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A Buyer's Guide to Trials Bikes

Where can I find a used trials motorcycle?

ADVRider Craigslist Trials Finds:
Club Postings:
Ryan Young/Sherco USA:
American Beta:
The Tryals Shop:
BJ Racing (Vintage):
Jack's Cycles:
Trials Source:

Pre-'65 Trials (Ariel HT5)

Trials Bikes A-Z

Many consider air-cooled twin shock vintage trials for a first trials bike Within the vintage trials context, they are capable to compete in. They are well suited for trail and play riding, but due to spare parts availability and collector desirability, the prices tend to be close to a modern used bike. Example: a '70s TL125 range from ~$900-$2500; Early '90's Beta ~$1500-$2000; and a 2005 model $2500-$3500. Prices tend to be significantly higher in the East and West Coast compared to the Mid-West and Rockies.

The most popular vintage trials bikes with a solid parts support network are the: Yamaha TY, Honda TL, and possibly the Bultaco Sherpa T or Montesa Cota. Visit:; or The 1965 Bultaco Sherpa revolutionized the sport with the introduction of the 2-stroke; the next major development was the 1970 Honda RTL250 Sammy Miller prototype which weighed 198 lbs with magnesium and titanium bits. The production TL250 weighed 230 lbs. and the TL125 194 lbs. Many argue that these Honda 4-strokes are, in reality, more trail play bikes than true competion models: I would defer to Eddie Lejeune to disprove that point of view.

These vintage bikes are closely related to the MX and Enduro bikes of the era, and are relatively heavy. According to the August 1986 edition of Cycle; the Honda TRL200 Reflex weighed 231 lbs.; a Yamaha TY250 weighs 205 lbs.; and a TY125/TY175 weight 196 lbs. In comparison a 2002 GasGas Pro or current Ossa 280i weigh less than 150 lbs. (Wet) stock from the manufacturer.

Monoshock models from the 80's and early 90's such as the Fantic 301/302/303/304/305/307/K-Roo, Aprilia Climber 280R, Beta TR32/33/34/35/Zero/Synth/Gara are generally dificult to find parts for as they have an even smaller following than the 70's era trials bikes. They often have drum brakes, cable operated clutches, no reed valves. They feel relatively heavy and often have peaky powerbands due to experiments with expansion chambers and no reed blocks. If you are truly interested in this era, here's an excellent website:

Notice the evolution where the seat diminishes from the '70; and is non-existent in the '90s models. The older heavier models that have real seats are more suited to trail/play riding if compared to current competition models.

Unfortunately vintage trials bikes often cost as much or more than used 'modern' trials bikes. Let's define modern... liquid cooled, disc brakes, case-reed intake or 4-stroke, mono-shock.

If you question the performance envelope of a vintage bike with an air-cooled piston port motor, damper-rod suspension, and drum brakes; in trials is more about the rider than the equipment. Here are a few videos to support the argument:

Charles Coutard in 1977 on a Bultaco Sherpa (200 lbs.) and in 1987 on a Yamaha TY250R (216 lbs.):

Eddy Lejeune in 1986 on a Honda RTL250S (180 lbs. 4-stroke):

Modern trials bikes:

The key developments over the past 20 years that differentiate modern trials bikes from their ancestors:

1. Hydraulic Disc brakes (4-piston front, 2 piston rear) - AJP Braktec, Brembo (Montesa), Formula (Sherco, JotaGas 2012) GasGas used Formula in 2012 but like JotaGas returned to AJP in 2013.
2. Hydraulic clutch - AJP, Formula, Magura
3. Case reed valve intake - often modified with Moto Tassinari or Boyesen reeds
4. Liquid cooled
5. Tubeless Radial tires (lighter). Front tires still use a tube.
6. Adjustable suspension
7. Elimination of the seat/subframe

other developments: interchangeable cylinder head inserts, dual ignition maps, Michelin X Light tires, Ducati ignition/stators changed to more reliable Kokusan, synthetic pre-mix to run 80:1 or 100:1 ratios.

Some things that didn't work or didn't sell: USD forks (heavier, and tend to leak), Titanium fastener kits (to shave another 7 lbs. - none were ever sold by GasGas USA), Magnesium cases (corrosion) - GasGas 2002 Pro and Raga use magnesium cases to acheive a 1.7 lbs. saving but issue a technical bulletin regarding corrosion. Beta used a no linkage rear suspension from 2000-2008 on the Rev3/Rev4 - similar to KTM PDS. Although providing weight savings, Beta returned to linkage rear suspension on the Evo. Mag wheels (Merlin, Mecatecno)

Cottage Industry: Most components are shared by the manufacturers: Morad (nee Akront) wheel rims, AJP brakes cylinders/calipers, Domino throttles, Marzocchi or Paioli forks, Ohlins/Olle/Sachs shocks, Braking or Galfer rotors and brake pads, Talon Hubs, Ordonez radiators, S3 2-stroke cylinders, Renthal/Hebo/Jitsie/S3/Tomaselli handlebars, Keihin (PWK 28mm) or Dell'Orto (PHBL 26mm) carburetors, Lionelli electrical controls/rectifiers, Comex radiator fans, and Kokusan stators. In fact trials footpegs (S3/Raptor/Jitsie) are universal fit. Verlicchi makes the aluminium frames for Montesa and Beta with JotaGas pending. Sherco supplies engines to both Sherco and Scorpa. Honda (CRF250) and Yamaha (YZ250F, TTR125, TTR250) supply 4-stroke motors. Tires are usually Michelin, Dunlop, Pirelli as OEM with IRC or VeeRubber aftermarket.

Top of the line models use the Keihin PWK28 carburetors rather than the Dellorto PHBL 26. The 250 and smaller models don't seem to benefit from the larger Keihin carburetor, and the PHBL is considered simpler to keep clean and correctly jet. In 2003, GasGas tried the Dellorto VHST28 carburetor which is similar to the Keihin PWK, but reverted back to the PHBL in 2004. One aftermarket replacement we should mention is the Oko 26mm PWK clone which was supplied in Xispa 2007-2010 Trials models. Here are links to more info: and Here's an excellent thread comparing the PHBL, PWK, VHST and the OKO:

Since the manufacturers are relatively small, and the market quite specialized; the modern trials bike built for the masses is, with the exception of fine-tuning, identical hardware to the motorcycles rode by the World Champions.

Suspension: Most models over the past 20 years ran a 38mm Paioli RSD front fork with spring preload on one fork, and rebound dampening on the opposite fork. In 2004 GasGas switched to Marzocchi 40mm aluminium forks in the Pro model (also used by Ossa, Jotagas) which provided compression dampening in one fork, and rebound in the opposite fork, but Beta and Scorpa (until 2008) retained the older Paioli RSU 38mm. 2007+ Marzocchi are (black) aluminium tubes for a 2 lbs. weight reduction at 6.3kg. Montesa uses Showa components which are quite impressive. Rear shocks: Sachs, Paioli, and Olle are usually only rebound adjustable. Aftermarket rear shocks are availabe from Reiger, Ohlins, TRP. GasGas (2012), Jotagas, and Sherco have adopted the Formula 'Tech' Factory 39mm (5 Kg.) fork for the newest models. Tech forks usually have steel tubes, but the new 2013 forks for the GasGas Raga Replica has aluminium tubes for a further 700 grams reduction.

Many new riders make the mistake of selecting a 270, 280 or 290 as a first bike - that's a lot of bike for a novice: the 270/280//290 spin up and hit hard to suit expert riders clearing 8' obstacles. Surprisingly the torquey 300 spools up slower, and has a very linear powerband. These 'big-bore' engines with high-compression and low exhaust port height can be a challenge to kickstart. The British and the Europeans find it amusing that Americans are obsessed with the 300cc+ 'Big-Bores' which only sold well in the US Market in the mid-1990's.

Experienced riders consider a 200 as an ideal first bike, which is relatively easy to start. The only current model offered is the Beta Evo 200. The Sherco ST 2.0 was made from 1999-2009 and GasGas offered a Pro 200 until 2006.

We're fortunate to own a GasGas TXT Pro 200 with a S3 225cc kit. 200cc models are in high demand and fetch a premium price. The 125 is a youth model and a great way to start: but hard to find in the US and also demand top price. Although a 200 weighs almost the same as a 125, the 125 feels lighter to ride due to flywheel effect. A 225cc overbore kit for 125cc bikes is available.

4-strokes? The 2004 FIM proposed 4-stroke ruling drove the manufacturers (Montesa, Beta, Scorpa, Sherco, GasGas) to develop and offer 4-strokes. The 4-stroke ruling never came into fruition.

You are currently limited to Montesa (available even if not officially imported into the US due to conflict with American Honda) and Beta. Sherco, Scorpa and GasGas abandoned 4-strokes for competition trials motorcycles. GasGas offers the TX125 Randonne which uses a Yamaha air-cooled motor. Similar to the vintage Honda TL125 the Randonne feels anemic and heavy. Scorpa has a similar offering: the TYS125. The 4-strokes feel heavier with more front weight bias, and have a much louder exhaust note than the 2-strokes, but the 4-strokes are very tractable and the Montesa 4RT has been winning World Championships with Toni Bou. Laia Sanz rode a Montesa 4RT but currently rides a GasGas 2-stroke.

Electric options? Both GasGas and Kuberg offer full size electric versions:

Oset, Mecatecno, GasGas, Xispa, and Kuberg offer electric mini-bikes:

The sub-150 lbs, modern trials bike emerged in 2002 -

Note: A trials bike can be reliably built at under 60 kg. (132 lbs.) but per F.I.M. rules: The minimum weights of the Trial motorcycles, for Outdoor events only, are:
• For 125cc cylinder machines: 65 kg (143.3 lbs.)
• For higher than 125cc cylinder machines: 66 kg (145.5 lbs.). The minimum weight has been raised to 70 kg. (154 lbs.) for 2014.
At any time during the event, the weight of the verified motorcycle must not be less than the minimum weight required.

GasGas, Spain. Gas Gas emerged in 1985 from the financial demise of Bultaco when two agents, Narcis Casas and Josep Piebernat found themselves with a shop but no product to sell. The name Gas Gas literally means "to gas it" (to accelerate, give it the gas, turn the throttle - to go faster.) GasGas has the largest market share and parts availability. GasGas is estimated to have between 60%-80% of market share, sells more trials bikes than the other 6 manufacturers combined. The current TXT Pro (TXII) model was introduced in 2002.

The previous model: Jordi Tarres developed TXT has roots in the 1994 to 2004 JT/JTR/JTX/TX/TXT/'Edition' model lineage. The engine, chassis, and suspension components were essentially unchanged over the 10-year production. Any changes were incremental but not revolutionary: plastics, fueltank, subframe/airbox, wheel hubs, and front brake calipers. The TXT engine was also used in the GasGas Pampera and is the foundation of the GasGas EnduroCross (EC) models.

The older, heavier engine design, similar to the Sherco powerplant, is bullet-proof. For this reason I own a 167.6 lbs. (Dry Weight) 327cc JT35 which is well suited for trail riding. The 1996-1997 JTX370 'Long-stroke' (338cc) was the biggest motor built to date.

note the similarity to GasGas Pampera MKI

Introduced in 2002, the GasGas Pro revolutionized engine design by shaving 17 lbs. from the engine and brought modern trials bikes to the sub 150 lbs. era. The Pro engine uses a diaphragm clutch similar to automobiles to reduce weight. The GasGas 'Four-Six transmission' is a innovative design using 4-gears to provide 6 gear ratios; with 1st-4th close ratio for trials and 5th/6th wide-ratio for trail riding. The Pro engine is criticized for being more fragile than the older TXT design, or the competitiors which have heavier engines.

Other manufacturers achieve weight reduction in chassis and engine materials. Magnesium cases as found on Beta Zero and GasGas Pro Raga are prone to corrosion. The 2003 Pro motor changed from the 2002 magnesium cases to aluminium. The Raga replica used anodized magnesium cases for a 1.7 lbs. weight saving, but in 2013 have returned to aluminium engine cases.
Originally Posted by jse
The 02' engine and clutch cover is Magnesium (painted) and the later ones (except for the Raga: anodized magnesium) are aluminum and the sealing system for the "top hat" servo cylinder post is 2 o-rings for the 02' and a seal and single o-ring for most of the later models. The '02 clutch cover exhibited excessive flex so ribs were cast on the inside of the clutch cover on the 03' on up.

GasGas used a color scheme to identify the different models up to 2006: Yellow 125cc/160cc/200cc Red 250c/280cc Blue 300cc. In 2002-2004 GasGas offered both the "Edition" model which was the older TXT design and the current TXT Pro.

The first year (2002) release of the GasGas Pro engine had reliability issues in the new diaphragm clutch. These issues were addressed by 2004, but some still regard GasGas as less reliable than other manufacturers. A 2004 magnesium clutch cover upgrade with a design to improve cooling and clutch slave cylinder stroke was increased. The clutch cover upgrade is available for 2002-2004 Pro models. I believe the current quality is close between the 6 current manufacturers, but GasGas product differentiation for a lighter weight arguably produces a more fragile engine than the 2 stroke engines offered by Sherco or Beta; or the Honda-Montesa and Yamaha 4-stroke engines.

Chassis: In 2006 GasGas converted from the chromed oval steel frame to 2007/2008 black oval frames to reduce cost, 2009 to present models use round tube CrMo frames to further reduce manufacturing cost. Some look for the 2002 GasGas frame with a steeper head rake. The 2003 onward frame geometry between the Chrome or Black Oval tube frame, and the current round tube frame in Red, Gold, Black or White, remained the same. I don't believe there was a deterioration in strength or durability with the GasGas chassis changes from 1991-2013. In 2010 GasGas followed Sherco's 2009 lead and offered a TXT280 Eco model that uses the 2008 black frame and a tube-type rear rim. Most trials rear tires are tubeless to run at 3-4 psi. Front tires still use tubes at 6-7 psi.

2013 Adam Raga Replica

Beta, Italy. The name Beta comes from the initials of Enzo Bianchi and Arrigo Tosi, who founded the company in 1948. Beta has a reputation of a quality build with what is considered the most reliable European motor; and promotes the aluminium frame. Current Beta's have roots in 7-time WTC Champion Dougie Lampkin development of the aluminium framed Beta Techno.
The 1994-1999 Beta Techno was criticized for the rear brake. Early model magnesium engine cases were prone to corrosion which resulted in coolant mixing with transmission oil. Front feels heavy compared to modern bikes: it's a 177 lbs bike!
The Rev3 had some early issues with the Ducati stator. Look for a Kokusan update. The carburetor is notorious for dripping fuel when on the sidestand for prolonged periods. GasGas and Sherco use the same Keihin PWK28 but don't have the same issue. Beta offers Rev4 4-stroke models 250 & 300. First year (2007) of the 4RT may have right engine case leak, fixed in 2008. Both Lampkin and Fajardo opted for different clutches on the Evo. I personally do not like the Beta Left side kickstart. Beta turn tighter than a GasGas.

Beta has a factory Rev3/Rev4/Evo 'Long ride seat/tank' for those who intend to trail ride rather than compete in trials.

Unfortunately the US Beta Importer has changed 3 times, with each new entity not purchasing the previous spares inventory. Therefore parts for the older bikes (1994-1999 Techno), tend to be difficult to source.

Sherco of France & Spain are well known for reliability. The motors are similar in design to the GasGas TXT motor which reflects in the weight, and slower reving character. The Sherco similarity with the 1990's GasGas modes isn't a coincidence...

Josep Paxau has designed and created the prototypes for manufacturers each since the first Mick Andrews Ossa was created.
He has also maintained the machines of the top riders of Spain , from Luis Gallach and Jordi Tarres to Albert Cabestany and Becky Cook. The work of Paxau is everywhere.

After Ossa, Paxau worked for Merlin then GasGas and now Sherco. He even developed his own very early monoshock Trials bike around 1985 , which was very early for a monoshock chassis.

The name Paxau , is I am told not be taken lightly has much influence in the area.You would be forgiven for thinking that Josep worked for the above motorcycle companies at the factories , but no. Paxau has always worked from these workshops. From the early days his creative work and engineering knowledge was recognised.

Merlin , GasGas and now Sherco all came to him , up in the mountains for their bikes to be created. He doesn't go to them. They did back then and still do now. Manufacturers effectively contracted out their Research and development to Paxau , leaving them to concentrate on production. They commission him to design and build next years model and he works with the top riders to take the bikes to the next level.
This means that right now , he will be working on the model one year on from the models that's just been released.

Paxau has his own motorcycle workshop in Torello , Catalunia. At the front of his workshop he has a Trial motorcycle shop. I went there during 2011 and met Josep.

Torello is a very small quiet town high up in the Pyrenees mountains of Spain. It is isolated and about 2 hours drive from Girona. It was quite a surprise to me that in this place, far away from industrial areas and motorcycle companies was , and still is the centre of Trials development.
The small shop is very neat and tidy. There is a very smart lady , rather like a secretary sitting behind a wide desk top .If you buy anything you get an official receipt with your name and details contained on it. Its an official and tightly run place. You get that feeling immediately. Dark tinted glass etched with "Paxau" shields the shop from the hot sun. Posters and pictures of Trials starts cover the walls. Many of these posters have autographs and little notes written thanking Josep for his work. Gallach, Renales, Tarres, Cordina ,Freixas and more.

Paxau developed the GasGas halley of Gabino Renales and Andrew Cordina. The magnificant and striking machines of Merlin. The first watercooled GasGas if Amos Bilbao. The red Fortuna GasGas , 3x World Championship winning machines of Jordi Tarres. Paxau still keeps working and now produced all of the new Bultaco and Sherco models in addition to maintaining the machines of Albert Cabestany.

After Merlin dissapeared from the motorcycle world , Paxau continued with the new tenants of the same Merlin factory , GasGas.
Josep designed the first GasGas Halley for Narcis Casas and Josep Pibernat .He then designed and created a working prototype of every model until he stopped working for GasGas in 1996.
Why did he stop working for GasGas in 1996?. I have been told from several people the following account.

Marc Teissier started Sherco under the brand name of Bultaco. He hired the design master of Trials Paxau to develop the first Bultaco / Sherco Trials bike. Paxau worked at Torrello creating this project from nothing. During the process many many GasGas parts were incorporated into the design of the new Bultaco/Sherco. I remember the reaction myself when the first Bultaco /Sherco was released to the press and photos were shown workdwide. The Bultaco was very similar in many respects to the GasGas. The prototype also allegedly appeared to have many many GasGas parts fitted to it.

The two owners of GasGas were upset that Paxau was designing for the competition using the knowledge that he had gained from their employment . They were also annoyed at GasGas parts allegedly being used on the Bultaco.

Jim Snell from GasGas USA was assigned the task of establishing the extent of the similarities between the GasGas and the new Bultaco. He completely stripped the Bultaco and photographed and weighed every component , taking digital images of everything.
Jim Snell's dossier of Snell was titled: "The Bull Stops here"

As you might imagine , GasGas were very annoyed .
It was at this point that Narcis Casas and Josep Piberbat decided for the first time to develop and design all of their bikes in house at the factory in Girona. Paxau was no longer employed by GasGas.

Paxau now works for Sherco solely and in addition is a Sherco only dealer.

Whether the above is true or not Paxau had dedicated his life to the sport of Trial that he loves. He has led and developed the sport signicantly providing us all with bike designs which are now better and easier to ride , lighter and more reliable.

Being a much smaller company, Sherco tends to lag a bit behind GasGas and Beta in development and is criticized as being 'heavier' (Dry Weight: 153.2 lbs.). 2004-2009 Sherco 3.2 4T (4-stroke) was considered the most difficult to start. Both GasGas and Sherco use CrMo frames. Sherco is imported by 6-time US National Champion Ryan Young. Sherco has a tighter steering lock than GasGas, but I wish it wasn't a 5-speed. Suspension is supplied by Marzocchi or Factory Tech, and Olle. Sherco ergonomics feel smaller to me: footpeg to handlebar distance.
2007 Cabestany Replica

Scorpa France- founded in 1993 by Marc Teissier and Joël Domergue. Declared bankruptcy in 2009. In 1998 Scorpa signed an agreement with Yamaha to supply the 4GG 2-stroke engines from 1998 onward sourced from the 1993-1998 Yamaha TYZ. 1994-1998 models used a Rotax motor which is heavier than the Yamaha.

The TYS125F and SY125F uses the Yamaha TTR125 123cc motor without electric start; and the SY200F used the 163cc engine. The SY250F uses the 2006 Yamaha YZ250F DOHC 4-valve 4-stroke engine (with a heavier flywheel, different gearing, ignition and camshaft, and without an exhaust powervalve) and has had Dell'Orto VHST26 carburetor jetting issues. Look for the 2008 and newer carburetor upgrade with the accelerator pump. Aftermarket parts for the Yamaha YZ250F such as the Athena 290cc kit or the S3 and Vertex 300cc kit for the SY250F. Earlier SY250 use the Teikei Y26P carburetors before the 2010 conversion to the Dell-Orto PHBL26 on the Sherco 125cc and 280cc motor. Transmissions are 5-speed. Weight specified at between 154 lb s. (SY250) to 165 lbs. (SY250F).

Scorpa chassis geometry uses a shallower steering head angle and comparatively longer wheelbase than other manufacturers which are both considered 'more forgiving' but interestingly provide: a very tight steering radius compared to a GasGas, but a much heavier Yamaha engine and Paioli fork makes the Scorpa feel more front-end heavy. Pre-2008 suspension use Paioli front forks and linkage-less rear suspension. The Yamaha and Sherco engines don't exhibit the 'snap' GasGas has, and feel much more closer to the more tractable Beta.

The Scorpa-Yamaha connection: 1991-1996 Yamaha TYZ250

Yamaha 2011 Factory rebadged Scorpa SY250F with SOQI (nee Showa) rear suspension:

In September 2009, the original owner, Marc Tessier of Sherco purchased Scorpa. Operations moved from Ales to Nîmes, France.

The current models are the TYS125 four-stroke, a 125 and 280 cc two-stroke SY, and a T-Ride model with the Yamaha YZ250F 4-stroke motor. Current Scorpa 2-strokes (SY and T-Ride) use the Sherco motor, Marzocchi front forks and Sachs rear shock. Many considered the Sherco engined Scorpa as much more competitive. A Scorpa Long Ride fuel/seat conversion is available.

Ossa, Spain - reentered the market in 2010 with the introduction of EFI 'reverse engine' (similar to Cannondale E440) and a 'casette' gearbox. In the first quarter of 2013, Ossa placed in third place in the list of trials bikes sales in Italy, ahead of Sherco, Montesa and Scorpa and only behind Beta and Gas Gas.

As expected the first year had EFI mapping issues which I've been told have been sorted out. The most frequent criticism is difficult starting. The Ossa 280i only weighs 144 lbs. Suspension: Marzocchi forks and Ohlins TTX rear shock. I prefer the feel of my revalved Sachs (36mm piston) over the Ohlins TTX (26mm piston) - defer to a suspension guru opinions on hydraulics and fluid dynamics. Ergonomics: I felt that the Ossa 280i is narrower but longer footpeg to handlebar distance. LewisportUSA is the US importer.

Jotagas, Spain - Founded by Jordi Tarres in 2009. Uses a unique rear suspension design coupled with Ohlins shock and Marzocchi forks. Earlier models were criticized for swingarm flex and and Olle rear shock has been replaced with the current Ohlins. Currently offered in 250, 280 and 300 models. The powerband is described as 'softer' than the GasGas. LewisportUSA is the US importer.

Montesa - Spanish subsidiary owned by HRC (Honda). Honda reliability. The Cota 315R (249cc) was offered 1997-2004, and the 4-stroke 4RT based on the Honda CRF250 engine was introduced in 2005 reflecting Hondas departure from 2-stroke technology and promoted by 6-time WTC champion Toni Bou. The 4RT is notoriusly the loudest of the trials bikes. 315R may suffer from clutch drag; and at a Dry Weight of 160.9 lbs. are heavier (particularly the 1997-2000) than the modern trials bikes. Adding a bit of ignition advance is a recommended mod. Clean models are highly sought after and command a premium price. Only slight changes over the model years. Montesa uses Showa suspensipn components which are excellent. Montesa is not imported to the US due to a conflict with American Honda Motor Corp. Parts are available from LewisportUSA.

315R 4RT

Xispa AKA XPA- Spain. Founded in 2005 by Enrique Meseguer and partner Andrés Tuzón. Although most models cater to the youth market; the 295cc XPA300 was developed with David Cobos. The XPA300 uses an innovative 25% lighter low-inertia flywheel and a gearbox that can be quickly accessed. MRP1 Suspension components. MRP1 manufactures components for GasGas, Ossa, Jitsie, and the Adam Raga branded handlebars and sprockets. Xispa won against Sherco in the 2010 French civil suit that Xispa was importing trials bikes selling at 30%-40% below French market norms.

Given a novice and intermediate riders capability: the rider won't be able to appreciate much difference between any 2004 or newer trials model regardless of brand. Best to purchase what you can afford, and Practice, Practice, Practice.

CAVEAT EMPTOR: Some of the modern bikes in California were brought in from out -of-state and never registered in the DMV. If you don't have a title or bill of sale and MSO you may have difficulty getting registered (green or red sticker). Since these bikes were originally manufactured to be street legal in Europe; but US DOT required removal of lighting equipment; if you have a Green Sticker and the 8th digit in the VIN is not a '3' or a 'C' there's a probability you can get CA street license plates.

Last edited by seavoyage; 07-18-2013 at 08:24 PM..
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Old 04-28-2013, 01:22 PM   #6
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Join Date: Dec 2011
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Name: Doc
Basic Trials Techniques

Now that you have a trials bike what next?

Tip #1: Attend a local trials event to observe and learn proper techniques from experienced riders. Sacramento P.I.T.S. Schedule:

Links to other Motorcycle Trials Clubs:
Southern California Trials Association
Columbia Observed Trials Association
Central Arizona Trials
AHRMA Vintage Trials

Tip #2: Don't attend a Trials Training Class until you've learned the basic techniques: Balance, Turns, Throttle/Clutch control.


Foot Position on the pegs:

Throttle/Clutch Control:

Tip #3: Practice, Practice, Practice Hint: You don't need a lot of space or your engine running.

Links for Noobs:

Trials Training Center How-To-Ride Tutorials:
Trials Central Forum:
ADVRider Trials Forum:
Ryan Young Instructional Videos:
Sherco Tips: Sherco Instructions: Sherco Manuals:
GasGas Tech Page: and TrialsPartsUSA:
LewisportUSA Manuals (Beta, GasGas, Ossa, Sherco, Montesa, Jotagas):
Beta Manuals and Parts Books:
Trials & Enduro News:
Extreme Enduro Magazine:
Trial Magazine:

Other Trials Links:
ADVrider Links:

Bike Set-up:

The 3 most common mistakes for new trials motorcycle owners:
  1. Using 10W40 Synthetic Motorcycle Transmission Oil. Only use 75W transmission or 5W30 Dino motor oil or if you have a GasGas Pro Engine: ATF DEXRON III or ATF-F.
  2. Using 32:1 Pre-Mix ratio. Only use Synthetic pre-mix 2-stroke oil in modern liquid-cooled trials 2-stroke engines. Run 75:1 up to 100:1 ratios. Older air-cooled engines ran at 32:1 ratios.
  3. Tires at too high pressure. Run 7 psi or lower in the front tire and 4 psi or lower on the rear tire. The rear tire in modern trials bikes is tubeless. Some tires with a trials thread aren't trials tires: Cheng Shin, IRC TR11 or GP1, etc. ; they just look like a trials ire

Dell'Orto carburetor tuning:


Suspension systems on the new Trials bikes do an excellent job of making themselves unnoticed. That is, they do what they are designed to do with a minimum of fuss. In addition, they offer a wide variety of adjustability to suit different riding styles and conditions. We will look at how these systems work and how some adjustments can be made to have them better suit your needs. As a fairly complete explanation of suspension/damping theory and dynamics could fill a small bookcase we’ll just talk about those things that the average rider like you and I ( o.k, o.k, most of the time I’m less than average ) can use to make our bikes work better.

The first step in setting up your suspension is to make sure that the shock, fork and all the external components are in good shape, properly lubricated and adjusted. This includes the steering stem bearings, wheel bearings, shock linkage, swingarm bearings, shock self-aligning bearings and the drive chain. The forks must be in good shape without worn bushings, leaking seals or binding/stiction anywhere in the travel. A lot of suspension “ problems “ are a result of poor maintenance and abuse.

Next, in order to establish a baseline, record all the adjustment settings of your suspension as they are now. That may include the clicks out on the compression and/or rebound adjusters ( forks and shock ), the height of the fork tubes above the top clamps, the fork oil level, the fork oil weight or viscosity and the “ race sag “ measurements front and rear of the suspension. Keep a copy of these measurements and any changes made so you have an idea of what you may need to change in the future to get the results you want.

In order to measure the race sag ( the suspension loaded with rider and equipment ) of your bike it’s a good idea to have a buddy help. Raise the bike up on the skidplate so both front and rear wheels are off the ground and the suspension is fully extended. For the rear suspension, measure from the center of the rear axle ( a metric tape measure works best ) to a point slightly forward of straight up on the bike, usually on the rear fender, and record this measurement. For the front, measure from the center of the front axle to a point on the bottom of the fork clamp or “ tripleclamp “ as it is sometimes called. Next, put on boots, helmet and any other riding gear that weighs a substantial amount. Get on the bike, bounce a couple of times and balance with your weight forward as if you are in your riding posture. lightly hold on to something to balance and have your buddy take the front and rear measurements again. Subtract the loaded measurement from the unloaded measurement to get the race sag measurement.

Find out what your bike’s suspension travel is. Your dealer can probably tell you or if necessary, you may need to measure actual travel ( at the axles ) by taking the fork caps off and the spring off the shock. As a general rule, most motorcycle rear suspension systems are designed to work with the race sag set so the shock piston is 1/3rd into its total travel. As an example, motocross bikes with 12 in. of travel set race sag at approximately 4 in. If you have 6 in. of travel, try setting sag at 2 in. Aggressive or advanced riders may opt for a little less sag but this is a good place to start. Rear race sag is very important, in part, because it has a direct affect on the front fork geometry and therefor steering and front tire traction. Checking race sag once in a while will give you an indication if your springs have lost tension ( “ sacked out “ ) and need replacing or some other possible problems like binding or misalignment. A note on changing to stiffer springs: You’ll need to back off the compression and go up on the rebound damping to compensate for the extra pressure exerted by the higher rate springs.

Race sag settings for the front is a little trickier. I would suggest setting the front sag at about 1/6th of the total travel or 1 in. for a 6 in. travel fork. Fork sag settings are usually done by changing the preload on the springs. I like to set my forks up with about 5 mm preload. If you have to use more than about 15 mm extra preload you might want to consider stiffer springs. These are ballpark figures and will vary according to riding style and personal preference.

Now that we have the sag set we’re going to work on the compression and rebound damping adjustments. I know, I know, everybody says “ dampening “ but the correct term is “ damping “- dampening just means to get something wet, although I might guess that if your damping isn’t set correctly when riding a creek section, dampening might be more suitable a term. Compression damping controls the speed at which the spring compresses so it doesn’t use up too much travel or bottom out and cause steering or control problems. Rebound damping controls the extention of the fork or shock after they are compressed from the tires contact with a bump. Upon compression the spring absorbs energy and rebound damping dissipates some of this energy when the suspension extends ( “springs” back ) after the load is released. Otherwise, the bike would bounce up and upset balance and lose traction. Too much compression damping causes a harsh, stiff feel to the bike and difficulty in control and/or loss of traction. Too much rebound damping doesn’t allow the shock or fork to extend quick enough to take the next bump and the suspension “ packs up “, becomes stiff and can cause traction and steering problems. Few riders grasp how important the rear suspension is as far as steering is concerned.

The best way to adjust suspension is to use a practice section that has as many types of obstacles that you are likely to encounter in a Trial. The suspension should be up to operating temperature as this has an effect on how it works. Adjusting suspension in the garage and jumping on the bike for a short ride will not work. Friends may offer a lot of advice but talk with someone who understands suspension theory and you are the only person who can really tell what works for you. Be willing to spend some time with your suspension and it will reward you ten-fold. Professional riders spend a lot more time setting up their bike than they do racing it.

Ride the test section and then change ONE adjustment at a time. As this is experimentation ( and learning ) deal with only one variable at a time. Start by turning the adjustments in ( clock-wise ) which will give you more damping. Try two clicks of adjustment at the beginning as this will give you a little more “ feed back “ than just one click. Eventually, you will reach the end of the adjustment range. Be sure to softly bottom the adjustment screw or knob as excess pressure may damage the internal mechanism ( a VERY common problem ). Then go back to full soft to experience how that affects the handling. After you have an idea of all the possibilities available you can adjust to the setting that gives the best result. On some bikes that have only one adjustment on the rear shock, like Gas-Gas, that adjuster tends to have a proportional affect on both the compression and rebound damping. You’ll eventually be able to fine-tune the compression and rebound to your riding style. You also will be able, in the future, to make changes to better suit your riding style as you will have learned what those little do-dads on the forks and shock really do.

You may have heard the terms “ high-speed “ and “ low-speed “ damping. They refer to the piston velocity inside the shock body or fork cartridge rather than bike miles-per-hour. Drilled orifices and shim stacks ( a series of ultra thin spring steel washers arranged in a special way ) control oil flow through the fork or shock to vary the damping at different piston speeds. For example, low-speed damping is important when traversing a series of wet, rolling rocks and high-speed damping is important when splattering a rock step. Most adjusters mainly have an effect on the low-speed damping characteristics of the suspension. High-speed damping is usually changed by modifying the internal components of the system.

Standard forks without adjusters can also be tuned by altering the fork oil viscosity and level. On non-cartridge forks ( like TY350 ), the level of the oil generally affects compression damping and the oil weight/viscosity affects the rebound damping. Keep in mind, with cartridge forks, that unless your forks have a rebound cartridge in one side and the compression cartridge in the other, like Fantic Marzocchi, Gas-Gas, and most new forks, a change in oil viscosity and level will have some affect on BOTH rebound and compression damping. Heavier oil viscosity will give more compression and more rebound damping. On the other hand, a higher oil level will give you more compression “damping” ( resistance to the fork compressing ) but less rebound damping as the reduced air pocket inside the top of the fork tube will exert more pressure to extend the fork. That air pocket inside the top of the fork tube acts as a secondary spring as it is compressed when the bottom slider moves up. Raising the fork oil level makes for a smaller air pocket that takes more energy to compress ( per inch of travel ) than a larger one and will exert more pressure to assist the spring extending. The advantage of having different cartridges in each fork for rebound and compression damping is that they can be adjusted separately, which you could not do if the cartridge handled both rebound and compression as most motocross forks do.

Setting fork oil level by actual measurement rather than volume is more accurate. If your service manual doesn’t give a fork oil level but just the c.c. measurement here’s a way to find out. Flush the forks with kerosene or mineral spirits ( DON’T use gasoline ) and let them drain. Add the c.c. amount called for, compress the fork tube ( spring removed ) and measure from the top of the tube to the oil. A narrow metric ruler works best. You can experiment with more or less of a level to get the action you like. 5 mm changes in oil level will make a change that is noticeable but don’t raise it too high as the forks will hydraulic lock and possibly blow a fork seal. 10 to 15 mm should be a limit in most trials forks. Increases in fork oil level mostly affects the last third of travel.

A note on fork oil viscosity. Ask your dealer what the factory recommends. This is a good place to start and is usually spot on. The factories spend a lot of time researching what works but they obviously can’t cover all the bases and a lot of riders have special needs. Oils of the same brand and type can usually be mixed. For example, if you have some 10 wt. and some 5 wt. a 50/50 mix is 7 1/2 wt. Oil viscosity is rated two ways: SAE weight ( Society of Automotive Engineers ) and VI or viscosity index. SAE ratings are 5 weight, 7 1/2 weight, 10 weight etc. VI ratings are 80/150, 80/170, etc. and are usually classified as Light, Medium, etc. Both ratings involve measuring oil flow through a fixed orifice for a set period of time. The SAE rating is at a fixed temperature whereas the VI rating is over a specific range of temperatures.

Let’s look at some common problems and some possible fixes,


Try raising fork tubes 5 to 7 mm above fork clamps, check rear race sag.


Reduce compression damping, lower fork tubes 3 to 5 mm in clamps.


Reduce compression damping, increase rebound damping.


Reduce rebound damping.


Reduce compression/rebound damping to get more “spring” from suspension.


increase compression damping, raise fork level, lower fork tubes in clamps, check race sag front and rear.


increase rear compression damping.

I can’t overemphasize the importantance of trying different adjustments and riding a practice section to feel how they affect the bike’s handling. After you get you bike set up to suit your riding style I guarantee you’ll have more fun, which is what Trials is all about in my experience.
Balance: Practice balance standing on your pegs (a la track stand) for as long as you can. Standing lowers your center of gravity to your footpeg level.

Do this drill on a slight incline. Balancing with the engine running is easier, but this drill can be done with the engine off. Apply both brakes, and turn handlebars to full lock on one side. Keep knees apart and turn the handlebars to make corrections and shifting your weight on the pegs.

Full Lock Turns: Practice tight slow turns/figure 8's working towards full steering lock and exercising the friction zone (steady throttle, clutch modulation and rear brake to control speed); jab the inside footpeg to initiate the turn; lean the bike into the turn as far as you can and counterbalance: foot weighting edge of the outside peg, legs bent and bowed (make like a monkey), inside arm straight, outside arm bent/elbow high, head up looking through the turn. Practice mid-turn stops and balancing while leaned over.

The keys to good basic turns are to lean the bike into the turn with good body position so that the bike tracks through the turn and the rider is always in balance. You don’t want to turn by using traction of the front tire with the rear pushing against the front, because this makes the front tend to push. Proper turning technique really shows itself when traction is poor, as good technique will drive the bike through the turn in total control.

Here’s a step by step guide to a good basic turns, with photos of TTC youngster Nathan Glinski during a recent class with Chris Florin. Chris picked out Nathan to demonstrate because of his good form and excellent technique on the basic body position for turning.

As you start the turn, lean the bike into the turn so that the bike turns itself and the wheels roll around the turn. Initiate the turn using footpeg pressure, by pushing the inside peg to make the bike lean. We call this “steering with your feet” or “steering with the pegs”.

As the bike leans into the turn, the bike should rest against the inside leg for stability as Nathan demonstrates in photo 1. Note that he rotates his outside foot to the outside of the footpeg and rolls the ankle to allow the bike to lean more while maintaining his body position to the outside.

The outside knee and outside elbow must be pointed outwards.
As you can see in the photos, the hips are angled into the turn. The inside arm is straight, the outside arm angled, and the shoulders naturally rotate with the handlebars. Some people think about rotating the shoulders and let the arms naturally move into the correct position.

The body weight moves to the outside and usually a bit towards the rear. The body may move a little bit front to back depending on if you’re moving uphill or downhill, but generally a bit towards the rear on flat ground. If you are properly balanced, you should be able to stop at any point in the turn without falling in (or out); this is a good point Ryan Young makes that can be a very helpful reminder. The most common mistake in turning is to let the head fall into the turn, which requires the rider to pick up the throttle and pick up speed to keep from falling into the turn.

Look ahead to your next marker or visual cue in the section (you DID walk the section and plan some visual cues, didn’t you!). If you are looking down, all you see are the knobs passing the front fender and you will not be prepared to finish the turn. Use a smooth throttle (or brake if you’re going downhill) and keep it rolling while looking through the turn as Nathan shows in photo 4.

Originally Posted by Bob_M View Post
I got a great tip this weekend and it worked great. Try to apply pressure on the outside peg by pushing hard as you turn and hold the pressure while you lean the bike over. It feels very different from standing up and will almost force you to stay on top of the bike.

To turn left, pressure onright peg while initiating the left turn and hold the pressure on the peg, try really pushing on the peg

Try this in some figure 8s.

It worked for me this weekend in Exeter, RI on the off camber sections and there were a lot of them.
To practice, set out some markers and tighten them up as you improve. It is absolutely the best practice to do this in the most slippery, greasy spot possible, as proper turning technique will work amazingly well in the mud and you will NOT be able to get away with poor technique when it’s slick. If it’s not slick, drag the garden hose out to a good spot in the back yard and make a slick spot! (don’t tear up the lawn).

A creek bed of loose bobbley rocks is also a great place to practice. Do some figure 8′s to work on the transition from left to right to left. Remember to use peg pressure to lean the bike and “steer with your feet”. After practicing on flat ground, you can move to slight uphill or downhill turns to work on smooth throttle and brake control.

Good basic turning technique is the foundation for developing trials riding skills. So always take some time to go back to basics and practice your turning techniques.

Lofting your Front Wheel Loft your front wheel by deweighting using your thighs, back and front suspension; NOT 'gas' power or clutching; then transition to pivot turns (a wheelie type maneuver) with either a foot dab as a pivot point or a 'floating turn' to develop clutch and throttle control, and precision front wheel placement. Slip the clutch don't 'pop' it. Practice shifting weight forward and back.

The proper technique done standing is BEND FORWARD-LEAN BACK-BLIP: shift weight forward by bending knees (not at the waist) to load the front forks; as forks rebound shift weight back by leaning back and straightening legs (do not pull up by bending arms - which shifts you body forward and uses energy); as wheel comes up - very slight throttle to place the front wheel.

Fine tune: Keep your head up, when you look down or 'round' your back you shift weight forward. When you arch your back and look up you shift weight back. When you bend at the waist to load the front you shift too much weight forward, so bend your knees.

Mild uphill inclines makes this technique a bit easier.

The Wheelie Turn: and Floaters


Hopping the Rear Wheel:

Nose Wheelie: Practice stoppies/nose wheelies by lifting the rear wheel by deweighting using your thighs, chest/arms, and rear suspension; and NOT by forward momentum/speed + hard front brake; and hopping your rear wheel to the side to develop brake and clutch control.

The proper technique is BACK-JAB-PUSH-CLUTCH: shift weight back briefly to load the rear suspension; 'jab' both feet down on footpegs to unweight; push forward on handlebars; squeeze (modulate) hand brake to control height as rear comes up and clutch in to keep from stalling.

Work up to popping the clutch when lifting the rear for more height, and apply rear brake hard when the tire comes down. Mild downhill inclines makes this technique a bit easier.

The Bunny Hop:

Obstacles: The Double Blip: Hint: you want the front tire to hit the obstacle:

For a moderate sized ledge or rock, it is usually possible to blast up and over with a single aggressive move and not much technique. The double blip is used to go over a modest sized obstacle with a minimum of speed and a maximum of control. This technique is very useful for moderate sized ledges or logs in which there is another turn immediately after and so you need to be at slow speed or stopped after the obstacle. It is especially useful on slippery logs or rocks, especially those at a sloping angle so that you don’t want to skid pan on them. If your skid pan touches on a ledge sloping off to one side, it will throw you to the side and cause you to dab or tip over.

The term “double blip” refers to the two distinct blips of the throttle associated with this technique. The double blip involves a first blip to initiate a wheelie into the obstacle, followed by a second blip (along with body movement) to achieve vertical lift up & over the obstacle. There are other maneuvers which involve two blips of the throttle, most notably the zap. The zap involves a wheelie to bring the front wheel down onto the top of the obstacle rather than into it, so as to achieve greater lift from the rear. This article will concentrate on the basic double blip.

The basics of this technique are as follows:.

On the approach, be sure to look past or through the obstacle to the point where you want to be on the far side of the obstacle.

You will need to do a wheelie into the ledge or log, and you need to be able to place your front wheel with precision. You initiate the wheelie with a dip of the knees forward to compress the front, as Bruce is starting to do in photo 1. In general, the body movements to intitiate the wheelie occur on the approach, starting a few feet before the point at which the front wheel leaves the ground. You can add a bit of brakes if needed or desired to help compress the front to start the wheelie.

As the forks rebound, your butt should go back to lift the front wheel and you add in the first blip of the throttle to both help the wheelie and to move the bike into the obstacle. Start to lift the front wheel at a distance away from the obstacle approximately equal to the height of the obstacle. Remember to look past the obstacle to where you want to end up; don’t focus on the obstacle itself or you will tend to stop on it rather than over it.

The front wheel should generally contact the obstacle about ½ to ¾ of the way up the face. On an “air log” or undercut ledge you may need to go toward the higher end of the range, if the face is flat or sloping you may contact a bit lower. This contact with the obstacle compresses both the front and rear suspension, as you can see in photo 2.

After the front wheel contacts and the suspension is compressed, apply the second blip of throttle and jump “chest first” through the handlebars. As you jump your body over the obstacle, the bike will follow. This needs to be a very physical move, with a lot of spring in the legs to jump big! No holding back! On photo 3 you can see that the bike has left the ground and the rear wheel is in the air without having yet contacted the obstacle.

The rebound of both suspensions along with the applied second blip and the jumping through the bars all help to lift the rear wheel so that it coasts over the top of the obstacle without depending on traction on the obstacle. As the bike clears the obstacle, the weight goes back to help the bike clear with momentum (not trying to drive over). Look how far Bruce’s weight is back in photo 4.

All of the steps are important, and the double blip technique involves a combination of several things including precise wheelie, throttle control and timing, possibly clutching for the second blip, and a lot of exaggerated body movements.

If you are having trouble with any aspect, isolate and practice that technique. For example, if you have trouble consistently placing your front wheel where needed, go practice precise wheelies and putting your front wheel in a specific spot. In order to do larger obstacles, the pros use the clutch to produce the second blip instead of throttle alone. This requires practice to be able to have good timing. Practice on a small obstacle that does not pose a danger and is not beyond your limits. You learn new techniques by focusing on the technique first, then build up to a big new challenging obstacle after the technique is mastered.

Riding Rocky Creekbeds: Note foot position on the outside of pegs with toes pointing forward. Reduce handlebar input

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Old 04-28-2013, 01:25 PM   #7
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Advanced Techniques

The Flip Turn:

Here's the instructional video:

The Splatter:

The Jap-Zap:

Watch the World Champions do it in slow-motion:
Albert Cabestany
Cabestany and Toni Bou
Toni Bou

Key Take-Away:
1. Body language to maintain balance and traction;
2. unweighting to use the suspension
3. timing your throttle, brake and clutch control.

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Old 04-28-2013, 04:00 PM   #8
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So... My yard is 90 feet wide by 112 feet deep, on a hill. I could actually build a little trials course...
Hodaka Ace 90. I've been riding these things too long. What can I say? How about that Combat Wombat?

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Old 04-28-2013, 04:30 PM   #9
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Show us your backyard trials course

Ride anytime!

Originally Posted by Butch View Post
So... My yard is 90 feet wide by 112 feet deep, on a hill. I could actually build a little trials course...
I should've taken a photo of Randy Lewis backyard course down in Bakersfield. His setup area is about that half the size of your yard and is set up with massive logs. Hop-Sing has a pretty well set up 1/2 acre. He hosts the Carr Ranch event:
Originally Posted by Hop-Sing View Post
I have a nice backyard set up for trials. Half an acre of stuff. A car, wrapped in logs. Tires and tons of logs, old picnic tables, pallets. 55 gal barrels, teder toder, Built structures and ramps, lots of dirt piles. I have been draging stuff home for years. we rearrange stuff all the time. make it easy with ramps and then start practicing. you can always remove the ramps as you get better. we dug out dirt from under the car and now you can stand up under the car. I also cut a section out of the floorboard so you can climb up inside the car. It is a cool fort for the kids. windows were painted black on the inside so you can't see in. that part of the yard looks like a dump. [kind of] but everyone that come over is fascinated, and wished they had a back yard like it. tree forts very high with poles to slide down on. platforms ect ect. I will try to get a few pictures. i also have a group of random post set to practice turns. I could put on a full trials in that half acre. Road the last two days. while the DS sits in the Garage.
Links to a few backyard set-ups:

Trials Central:

Check out Gordy's front yard set-up:

Going cheap? Just stack a pile of wooden pallets:

Originally Posted by seavoyage View Post
You should be able to train anytime with the minimum amount of space and the engine off (stealth):
Cody Webb's set-up:

undertheoaks, SVJ, The_Toe_Cutter, mbalmer, a few non-BARF friends, my daughter and I off the deep end pursuing a different adventure on the fringe where modern Aprilia/ATK/BMW/Ducati/Honda/Husaberg/Husqvarna/Kawasaki/KTM/Suzuki/Triumph/Yamaha and seats don't exist...

Yes - we ride in T-shirts, tank-tops, and MTB helmets in the summer (USFS Sparky and DMV Registration not required!)

Originally Posted by undertheoaks View Post

Trials are so much fun and humbling at the same time, think you can ride....try trials and think again.

Awesome ride today out in Marin County !!! Good practice and outstanding fun, I continue to fall in love with Trials !!

Just for those adults thinking pit bikes are cool... try an Oset 20:

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Old 04-28-2013, 07:09 PM   #10
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You've been busy Seavoyage!! Great post, thanks for putting all this together in one spot. Very helpful for people looking to get into trials and for us who are just starting to learn the sport.

Checked out the Metcalf trials area for the first time today. Much better than the area Carnegie has designated.

Another good video with Julien Dupont from the movie "moto 3"

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Old 04-28-2013, 07:21 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by The Toe Cutter View Post
You've been busy Drew!! Great post, thanks for putting all this together in one spot. Very helpful for people looking to get into trials and for us who are just starting to learn the sport.

Checked out the Metcalf trials area for the first time today. Much better than the area Carnegie has designated.

Here is a pretty cool trials video which is more focus on trail riding. It's one of the videos that made me want to buy a trials bike
Interesting, I went out to Carnagie on Sat and rode the trials area there and found it to be good. Carnagie also has some good rock out-croppings in the hills that were fun to play on. Funny how you pass them up on a dirt bike but since I've been riding trials whole new lines open up. Thanks Drew awesome posts very helpfull. Didn't make the trials event this weekend figured needed more practice and 5 hrs driving didn't help. Will do the Cow Pile for sure.
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Old 04-28-2013, 08:06 PM   #12
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The only thing I saw at Carnegie was a huge pile of rocks and a handful of 5' concrete pipe. Did you ride up those things?

Friday I learned the hard way that trying to practice in my yard wearing shorts is not very smart

I bailed on the event today when I saw the 95 degree forecast...
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Old 04-29-2013, 11:23 AM   #13
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This is fantastic!!!!! Doc I have been reading your posts on ADVrider and love them. I have never ridden a trials bike and know just like every other bike they are so much more capable than I am. One of these days I would like to find someone with one or better two so I can ride and learn to see if it's something I want to invest in.

Budman and Doc thanks for setting this up, I for one really appreciate it!!!!!!!

People say I have A.D.D. they just don't understand......HEY LOOK A MOTORCYCLE!

The adventures of my buddy and love at its best
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Old 04-29-2013, 12:30 PM   #14
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Great sticky!!!!!!!! Thanks, Butch and Drew!
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Old 04-29-2013, 10:17 PM   #15
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Trivial Entertainment

For all the F1 Fans: There's an inside secret to this if you've ever worked as a mechanic or engineer in F1 or Indycars.

Manners please Mr. Lampkin

Don't show this to your kids:

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