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Old 10-18-2016, 11:55 AM   #31
Phanuel
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Originally Posted by Smash Allen View Post
what about the 'dust' in the dash Phanuel? do you have that? i think it's funny BMW warranty replaces $1100 dash assembly for dust
Mine is heavily crashed and they denied any dash related warranty for mine since the retaining tabs were broken off and re-attached by CSS.

I took my dash apart (really easy for you since you should be able to get it detached via the oem method) and cleaned it with some windex/plastic cleaner.
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Old 10-18-2016, 12:10 PM   #32
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Thanks for the link, I haven't noticed any dust but will check when changing fork fluid

Air filter and plugs were just delivered, it is an exercise in impulse control to not go home and pull the coils using wire :|
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Old 10-18-2016, 02:00 PM   #33
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So it's both dated and mileage dependant. Yes I have to reset the light and interval using @WFO439's GS-911 tool ($400). That tool can do some other interesting things, one of which I hope is to change / verify rear tire diameter setting for traction control. You can switch between 190/200.
Thank you for the reply.

I had "read" that the engine service algorithm takes into account motor rpm history also.

Your statement concerning setting the traction control to varying rear tire width is new to me. Do you know, can you explain how that figures in to traction control? And, if BMW is taking into account contact patch on the road, tire profile is at least as important, I would think. Or is there something else entirely going on here?

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Old 10-18-2016, 02:02 PM   #34
Phanuel
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I think it's calculated off of an estimated sidewall height/tire profile. There are limits in place for throttle % by lean angle per engine mapping mode.

http://www.s1000rrforum.com/forum/s1...tml#post147580

Last edited by Phanuel; 10-18-2016 at 02:08 PM..
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Old 10-18-2016, 02:10 PM   #35
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Originally Posted by Lex Talionis View Post
Thank you for the reply.

I had "read" that the engine service algorithm takes into account motor rpm history also.

Your statement concerning setting the traction control to varying rear tire width is new to me. Do you know, can you explain how that figures in to traction control? And, if BMW is taking into account contact patch on the road, tire profile is at least as important, I would think. Or is there something else entirely going on here?

TIA,
Lex
That makes sense, and goes along with how BMW cars work as well. I guess it had to make an adjustment after I started riding it

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Originally Posted by Phanuel View Post
I think it's calculated off of an estimated sidewall height/tire profile. There are limits in place for throttle % by lean angle per engine mapping mode.
What Phanuel said. With a wider tire comes more grip and available lean angle and ECU is constantly sampling information from front and rear wheel sensors plus lean angle and it comes up with a maximum available traction. If you ask more with your wrist than it thinks you have, it will intervene via four different ways to prevent you from asking more of your tire than you have.

Supercorsa SP V2 come stock from BMW and is the 'recommended' tire and the profile was developed based off of this tire. If you go 190 SP to 200 SP you should change the value in the ECU so that it isn't cutting power too early. On the flip side, if you got 200 SP stock with forged wheels from factory and go to 190 without changing setting, the bike thinks you have more grip than you actually do. In 'Slick' or 'User' mode it's not as big of a deal since you can manually adjust the intervention sooner or later with the thumb switch on the left switch-gear.

There is a cool article here which explains User mode a bit


Last edited by Smash Allen; 10-18-2016 at 02:16 PM..
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Old 10-18-2016, 08:20 PM   #36
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Here's a link to a couple big pictures, I will take more this weekend as the coil tool should be here Thursday

https://imgur.com/a/j7Upd
Hell yea! Exactly what I was looking for
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Old 10-19-2016, 06:52 AM   #37
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Good luck and you should have done a YT video on this.
Here is a sped up video of me installing air filter in the air box, secondary air rail, and positioning throttle body back on the head. This was an experiment to test camera angle. I don't normally wear Oxfords when wrenching


youtu.be/A4cXjGZR9s0
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Old 10-23-2016, 10:52 AM   #38
Smash Allen
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**Disclosure** Uncut, unedited footage featuring lots of Birkenstock ad placement

Fairing Removal

youtu.be/P_WOhXYvHbE

Gas Tank, Air Box Removal

youtu.be/SH9X-R9KZK4

Throttle Body Removal

youtu.be/ICImYJ3r_G0

Horn Removal

youtu.be/zwosFEt2-yQ

Valve Cover Removal

youtu.be/Tx2kUPD6HDU

Spark Plug Removal

youtu.be/Y7YgFGrPKYU

Valve Check

youtu.be/n71xCaMnEvA

Last edited by Smash Allen; 10-23-2016 at 11:09 AM..
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Old 10-23-2016, 10:59 AM   #39
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All valves were in spec, except cylinder#2 exhaust#1 0.28mm measured, spec(0.20-0.26mm)
No adjustment made, check again at half interval (27,000miles) to confirm

rest of maintenance completed, service indicator reset (thanks @wfo439)
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Old 10-23-2016, 11:34 AM   #40
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I'm confused - don't the valves get tighter over time? How come yours is looser than spec?
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Old 10-23-2016, 11:55 AM   #41
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You are right they do get tighter, as for why it's loose, I'm not sure -

Maybe they set it loose from factory? I added a note to check again in 9,000 miles which will tell more. The next 9,000 miles will be ridden much higher rpm than the first 18,000 that's for sure

Last edited by Smash Allen; 10-23-2016 at 11:57 AM..
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Old 10-24-2016, 11:54 AM   #42
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Ok, how many extra bolts do you have in a cup after all of that?
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Old 10-24-2016, 12:15 PM   #43
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Ok, how many extra bolts do you have in a cup after all of that?
funny story, got it all back together then saw the hose clamp for the crankcase breather on the workbench realized i forgot to connect the breather hose to the airbox. sooo, fairings back off, gas tank back off, airbox back off. i'm getting real good at taking this thing apart, have the screws all memorized now too
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Old 11-07-2016, 01:24 PM   #44
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Bumping this as I decided to do my first ever valve check on my R6 due to a hunch about it being completely garbage while cold due to valve tolerances...

All 8 exhaust valves at 0 or as close to 0 as makes no difference in how bendy you can make wafer thin minimum thickness below .8mm feeler gauges not slip in. 2 intakes on the tight side. Only 9k miles on the bike (26k mile valve check intervals), must have been a factory option for nearly 0 clearance.

Learned that the cam chain tensioner needs to be back in in order to test the initial clearance recheck after guesstimating shims from 0mm clearance. Had tons of not fun banging many knucks on those tiny rock sharp bolts that hold the cam guides in doing and undoing them several times.

Not as scared to do a valve check now as I was, but the R6 is miles simpler to take apart as compared to the S1000. But I'm still sure I f'd something up and this motor will grenade on me during my next track day despite it seeming to idle fine in the garage.
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Old 11-07-2016, 01:36 PM   #45
Smash Allen
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Bumping this as I decided to do my first ever valve check on my R6 due to a hunch about it being completely garbage while cold due to valve tolerances...

All 8 exhaust valves at 0 or as close to 0 as makes no difference in how bendy you can make wafer thin minimum thickness below .8mm feeler gauges not slip in. 2 intakes on the tight side. Only 9k miles on the bike (26k mile valve check intervals), must have been a factory option for nearly 0 clearance.

Learned that the cam chain tensioner needs to be back in in order to test the initial clearance recheck after guesstimating shims from 0mm clearance. Had tons of not fun banging many knucks on those tiny rock sharp bolts that hold the cam guides in doing and undoing them several times.

Not as scared to do a valve check now as I was, but the R6 is miles simpler to take apart as compared to the S1000. But I'm still sure I f'd something up and this motor will grenade on me during my next track day despite it seeming to idle fine in the garage.
Nice! Hoping you meant .08mm LOL

If the R6 has been a track bike for those 9k miles then I could understand the tight valves, the maintenance intervals should be reduced for track / race bikes for sure.

The worst feeling for me was when I was adjusting valves on my sv650, buttoned all back up and I decide to turn the crank to verify no interference (timing) and I got a big CLUNK and then the crank didn't want to turn any more

I was turning it by hand so I didn't damage anything, but I had to take everything back apart and set the timing since I must have jumped a tooth at some point. Ever since then I verify timing and get the bike running before putting it all back together.

Back to the BMW, When I was resetting my service light the gs-911 tool couldn't detect my ecu thought I might have borked something. Then I look at my work bench and see the ECU sitting there disconnected

Oh yea the kill switch has to be "on" position for the tool to find it as well
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