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Old 02-13-2019, 08:47 AM   #16
dravnx
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Originally Posted by ThumperX View Post
and I just wear heated gear underneath if it's supe cold.

I found one of those vacuum bags with the one way valves work really well. I fold my stick so it fits in the bag then squeeze out all the air. I wind up with a compact brick that fits in my side case on the NC.
I gotta grab some of those valved bags. Sounds like a great idea. Once you have heated gear, you life is complete.
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Old 02-13-2019, 08:47 AM   #17
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The Aerostich R-3 uses 500d Cordura for the main suit with 1000d overlays. Anyone know the specs on the fabric that makes up the majority of the Hardanger? Klim claim to use 750 denier Cordura on the knees, boot panels, shoulders, and elbows. What's the rest of the suit?

FYI, pics of the interior of the suit and the zipper arrangement here: http://uniongaragenyc.com/shop/featu...hardanger-suit
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Old 02-13-2019, 10:09 AM   #18
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I think SJBMW carries Klim... worth a call.
Yes, they do. And have a very good selection.
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Old 02-13-2019, 11:12 AM   #19
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Originally Posted by fubar929 View Post
The Aerostich R-3 uses 500d Cordura for the main suit with 1000d overlays. Anyone know the specs on the fabric that makes up the majority of the Hardanger? Klim claim to use 750 denier Cordura on the knees, boot panels, shoulders, and elbows. What's the rest of the suit?

FYI, pics of the interior of the suit and the zipper arrangement here: http://uniongaragenyc.com/shop/featu...hardanger-suit
I've read it has an EN17092 AA rating, which regardless of what it's made of, means it's pretty safe for textile gear, by an objective standard. I think a good leather would get a AAA rating.
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Old 02-13-2019, 11:32 AM   #20
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I gotta grab some of those valved bags. Sounds like a great idea. Once you have heated gear, you life is complete.
Just realized this lately and cannot live without the heated gear anymore. So so so much comfort riding in any cold weather. The bike doesn't have to sit in the garage in winters anymore.

Now just need to figure out an efficient way to connect the wires when on bike. I wear the helmet first, then connect gloves and then connect the coax to jacket liner. This is all good but then its hard to reach controller inside the jacket to turn it on with the helmet. I think I should connect/start the controller first and then wear helmet.
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Old 02-13-2019, 11:40 AM   #21
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Yes, they do. And have a very good selection.
Just spoke to them. They are not taking orders since they do not have much idea on sizing. But the guy said they are expecting the suits to arrive in the next couple of days. Once he has them, he'll give me a ring and we'll take it from there.

Need to blow that bonus money somewhere
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Old 02-13-2019, 11:51 AM   #22
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One of my bikes has the controller velcro'd to the top of the clutch reservior and the other bike has the controller velcro'd to the front of the tank within easy reach of my left hand. Works great. Before I got the second controller, I would move it from bike to bike.
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Old 02-13-2019, 11:53 AM   #23
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One of my bikes has the controller velcro'd to the top of the clutch reservior and the other bike has the controller velcro'd to the front of the tank within easy reach of my left hand. Works great. Before I got the second controller, I would move it from bike to bike.
I am using the HotWired one from CG and the controller is integrated in the jacket liner at the bottom. Been thinking of exchanging it with Gerbing to go to your kinda setup.
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Old 02-13-2019, 11:57 AM   #24
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I adjust the controller way too much to not have it convenient.
70-80 mph it's cranked up. Get into the split and I have to turn it down.
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Old 02-13-2019, 01:02 PM   #25
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Originally Posted by vaibhavdesai137 View Post
.

Now just need to figure out an efficient way to connect the wires when on bike. I wear the helmet first, then connect gloves and then connect the coax to jacket liner. This is all good but then its hard to reach controller inside the jacket to turn it on with the helmet. I think I should connect/start the controller first and then wear helmet.
My way is dual controller in a holster, always plugged into jacket liner. Often jacket liner gets left inside my Roadcrafter or sometimes in a motorcycle jacket. Put it on together, clip controller holster to a belt or pocket. Final gear step is usually plugging in and donning gloves. Then, before mounting the bike, plug in a single coax connection from controller at my left hip to coax socket dangling left of the seat.
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Old 02-13-2019, 07:18 PM   #26
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I've read it has an EN17092 AA rating, which regardless of what it's made of, means it's pretty safe for textile gear, by an objective standard. I think a good leather would get a AAA rating.
Here's what I could find on EN 17092:

https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocia...-law-explained
http://www.bull-it.com/ce

Based on my reading, the AA rating for abrasion resistance looks pretty uninspiring! Essentially, the knees/elbows/shoulder/butt need to survive for 2 seconds in a 43mph (70kmh) crash, the back has to survive for 1 second in a 28mph (45kph) crash, and the front of the suit has to survive for a half-second in a 15mph (25kph) crash.

I wouldn't be surprised if a Roadcrafter would give you AAA abrasion resistance and leather would be significantly better than AAA.
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Old 02-13-2019, 09:31 PM   #27
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Here's what I could find on EN 17092:

https://www.bennetts.co.uk/bikesocia...-law-explained
http://www.bull-it.com/ce

Based on my reading, the AA rating for abrasion resistance looks pretty uninspiring! Essentially, the knees/elbows/shoulder/butt need to survive for 2 seconds in a 43mph (70kmh) crash, the back has to survive for 1 second in a 28mph (45kph) crash, and the front of the suit has to survive for a half-second in a 15mph (25kph) crash.

I wouldn't be surprised if a Roadcrafter would give you AAA abrasion resistance and leather would be significantly better than AAA.
I'm not sure there are many situations on the street where you could manage to slide for more than a second or so without hitting something. Two seconds at 43mph is 126 feet. The test is two seconds at a sustained 43mph, in a crash you will be slowing down pretty quickly even if you don't hit anything.

Wouldn't be my choice for the track, but sounds reasonable for street riding and lighter fabric is way more comfy. I always figure impact protection is what matters the most on the street, while abrasion is most important on the track.
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Old 02-14-2019, 12:44 AM   #28
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My way is dual controller in a holster, always plugged into jacket liner. Often jacket liner gets left inside my Roadcrafter or sometimes in a motorcycle jacket. Put it on together, clip controller holster to a belt or pocket. Final gear step is usually plugging in and donning gloves. Then, before mounting the bike, plug in a single coax connection from controller at my left hip to coax socket dangling left of the seat.
Warm and Safe has wireless now.
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Old 02-14-2019, 07:45 AM   #29
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Yeah I have one of their wireless dual controllers, and I used it for a while, but went back to using wired controllers. There are pluses and minuses either way.
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Old 02-14-2019, 08:20 AM   #30
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I'm not sure there are many situations on the street where you could manage to slide for more than a second or so without hitting something. Two seconds at 43mph is 126 feet. The test is two seconds at a sustained 43mph, in a crash you will be slowing down pretty quickly even if you don't hit anything.
The areas which are subject to the 2-second rule are relatively small. I want a garment that can survive a crash at highway speeds. In a 70mph crash, the Zone 3 fabric only has to survive for a tenth of a second to pass EN 17092-AA! Granted it might last longer, but it seems like AAA-rated gear is a better option for highway riding...
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