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Old 03-31-2021, 06:59 AM   #3256
rcb78
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I think it's obvious that people with physical limitations are an exception and should consult with a kinesiologist specializing in their sport, and I also think it's fair to say that this isn't the case with the majority of riders. Joint injuries can be the culmination of years of abuse, catching fit and form issues early will often prevent injury years later. For that matter, the issue you describe can also be the culmination of poor form over the years. Your body will adapt to most of what you do to it, for better or worse. If you've always ridden one way then I wouldn't be surprised that making any change, good or bad causes pain.
Also, I'm not talking about just keeping knees in, but when you knees follow this path \ / it's often a sign of saddle that's too low. Your knees will track out across the top of the pedal stroke due to their up/down movement being limited by lack of extension.
I think my point still stands. I've seen plenty of people that have had professional 3D fits that simply don't adhere to the advice, often because it's uncomfortable to make changes.
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Old 03-31-2021, 07:38 AM   #3257
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Also, I'm not talking about just keeping knees in, but when you knees follow this path \ / it's often a sign of saddle that's too low. Your knees will track out across the top of the pedal stroke due to their up/down movement being limited by lack of extension.
The old rule of thumb was that if your knees point outwards at the top of the pedal stroke, your saddle is too low.

If your hips rock when pedaling, your saddle is too high.

Using the 'hips rocking' as a guide is actually a good way to sort out ideal saddle height. Keep moving the saddle higher bit by tiny bit until your hips rock, then back it down a touch.
The only way to do this is with a friend that can follow you while riding and evaluate, or do the evaluation on a stationary wind trainer- you can't see it yourself.

Another truly important fit issue is with clipless pedal cleats. If you're running flat pedals, just remember to keep the balls of your feet directly over the pedal spindles while you ride and everything is fine. With clipless, though, there are three (or two, if you ride Speedplays) considerations. Forward/back placement, side to side placement, and angle.
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Old 03-31-2021, 08:02 AM   #3258
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It's been 20-yrs since I've raced and many of my teammates and I reminisce about good-ol-days around BBQs nowadays. Many of them are limping, on crutches or in wheelchairs now due to knee-injuries from cycling. Be extremely careful! If you feel any soreness or pain, don't ignore it!!!.
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Old 04-01-2021, 03:54 PM   #3259
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Well that sucks. Went over the bike only to discover that the rear wheel needs truing. The only nearest place that gets good repair review is in Livermore. I was going to head over tomorrow and have them fix it, but really wanted to do a little ride tomorrow.

So I think I'll just f'ing send it and ride the damn thing as is for at least a couple of rides before I get it done.


youtu.be/S_lR3efbDl0
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Old 04-01-2021, 10:24 PM   #3260
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It's been 20-yrs since I've raced and many of my teammates and I reminisce about good-ol-days around BBQs nowadays. Many of them are limping, on crutches or in wheelchairs now due to knee-injuries from cycling. Be extremely careful! If you feel any soreness or pain, don't ignore it!!!.
What the actual what the what
I've actually already posted earlier by feeling all sorts of pain sides and front in the knees , when I played with the saddle...
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Old 04-05-2021, 07:25 AM   #3261
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Well that sucks. Went over the bike only to discover that the rear wheel needs truing. The only nearest place that gets good repair review is in Livermore. I was going to head over tomorrow and have them fix it, but really wanted to do a little ride tomorrow.

So I think I'll just f'ing send it and ride the damn thing as is for at least a couple of rides before I get it done.


youtu.be/S_lR3efbDl0
That sucks there are no descent shops in Tracy.
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Old 04-06-2021, 07:51 AM   #3262
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That sucks there are no descent shops in Tracy.
I got it sorted in five minutes at My Buddy's Bike Shop (yes that's the name lol!) in Libmo. I stopped by Saturday, thinking that I'd have to leave it for a couple of days since they were absolutely slammed. Guy took it back to a tech, who straightened it out and the total charge was $10 instead of the $40 or so I was quoted over the phone. Popped it back in the bike when I got home and it spins true.

Top people at that shop who get props from me.
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Old 04-14-2021, 10:42 PM   #3263
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disassembled my rear hub (9, I think 11-32) and took off the cassette . Managed to bust a thumb with blood, before putting on leather gloves and whipping the cassette out. then reassembled it.. insanely managed to put the last cog crooked, and tightened the locknut. ... so, had to unscrew it once more. amazingly the same cog then went down properly symmetrical??

Seems to work now. There was play in the hub.
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Old 04-15-2021, 05:50 AM   #3264
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Common, it means you misaligned the notches on the last cog on the first try and then got it right the second time. It's easy to sometimes spin that last one a bit while tightening the lock ring and not notice until you see it's crooked.
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Old 04-15-2021, 09:40 AM   #3265
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Wow.. didn't know it was common. (It was the second "Taking off the cassette" for me.. totally forgot when I Did the first one.)

here is the condition of it after cleaing with rag and some spray yesterday. For my city/comumute bike this is pretty good... and it is 11-28 BTW (or maybe 12-28?)



And another screenshot at max-zoom. I did notice a few 1/2mm knicks on some teeth. Probably not too bad, nor would I be too happy to change it.

..
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Old 04-15-2021, 09:50 AM   #3266
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Wear on cassettes is pretty simple, if it skips replace it. If teeth are broken off, refer to "does it skip". If there's wear marks, refer to "does it skip". Cassettes see some pretty extreme wear, as long as the chain doesn't jump off when it's all adjusted correctly you're fine.
As for getting that last cog off by a notch, it happens to all of us. As long as you notice the issue and correct it, it's all good.
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Old 04-15-2021, 10:35 AM   #3267
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Cassettes and chains on a bicycle wear similarly to a moto, however bike chains are cheap so one school of thought is to replace the chain early (like every 800 - 1000 miles) to spare the other bits for longer. Alternatively you can just wear out the chain and cogs / rings and replace everything at once, this makes less sense if your front chain rings would require replacing the whole crank. On my mountain bike I'd do the chain once a year or so depending on how much I was riding, on the road bike, 1000 miles or so.
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Old 04-16-2021, 07:38 PM   #3268
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Since my above message re:"retightening" the cassette lockring, I Did one ride, -> test-ride was good

I think I don't have any skipping. Even if it's 1600 mi +
Also I've measured the chain with a ruler. The pins of the chain-links hit 12" precisely--I was surprised there seems to be not even a hair of "wearing down"!

Finally, I did the above cassette disassembly, mostly to tighten the hub/axle because my whole rear wheel was wobbly. So now it feels OK.

next things: I may clean "the guide wheels" As shown here :


youtu.be/zeb80OeL_pM

And.. I may go to the axle again.. maybe check/replace the bearings, because.. I think it rotates a bit rough, esp in "3rd gear, middle chainring".. but the above guide wheels cleaning may help for that! It happens more while pedaling, actually.
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Old 04-16-2021, 08:13 PM   #3269
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Originally Posted by N4teTheGreat View Post
Cassettes and chains on a bicycle wear similarly to a moto, however bike chains are cheap so one school of thought is to replace the chain early (like every 800 - 1000 miles) to spare the other bits for longer. Alternatively you can just wear out the chain and cogs / rings and replace everything at once, this makes less sense if your front chain rings would require replacing the whole crank. On my mountain bike I'd do the chain once a year or so depending on how much I was riding, on the road bike, 1000 miles or so.
I'm going to come right out and say that's a terrible way to do it on a bike. Measure the chain elongation and replace as needed. I average 2k-4k miles on chains that see a lot of dirt and 6k+ on road chains. Replaced at the correct time you'll get multiple chains per cassette and chainring set. I've seen numbers up to 15k miles for a cassette and 50k for a chainring set. Chains are cheap those other things aren't. My Dura Ace chains are about $45 ea. My cassettes cost between $120 and $450 and my chainrings are about $160 a set.
There is no standard mileage expectation, it's different for everyone based on their shifting style, their weight, how's much they climb and how clean things are. That's why there are established ways to measure a chain. The best tools will account for roller and flank wear, but a simple ruler is better than nothing. 1/16" at 12" is a new chain, 1/8" at 12" is probably a new cassette. Chainrings are based on slip and shifting.
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Old 04-17-2021, 07:07 AM   #3270
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Indexed-shifting has increased wear and tear on drivetrain. People now don't unlink load with shifting-action. In old days with friction-shifters, you used to have to let up on pedal-pressure to get clean shift. Then re-apply load.

Nowadays, you shift regardless of pedaling loads. You can shift under full load going uphill out-of-saddle. Applying load when chain is not straight really wears it out quickly. As well as chews up corners of sprocket teeths.

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