• There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.

Motard/tubed spoke people: DIY tubeless kits?

Karbon

Karbon

Hyper hoñorary
Joined
Sep 27, 2006
Location
Santa Cruizin'
Moto(s)
superchicken, BRP SM, GSXR750
Posted here because the sumo forum is pretty quiet.

So, two punctures in just a few months.

I've decided I'm going tubeless with my next set of tires. As I'd rather worm patch a tire rather than half dismounting the tire, tube patching and re seating.

There are plenty of options out there. Some folks are buttering up the spoke holes with sealant then taping. Which can makes it a pain in the ass for spoke maintenance.
http://supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?105809-Making-your-spoked-wheels-tubeless-with-pictures


And the there is the Outex tubeless kit from japan, that's kind of expensive. But looks super legit. Some stunter guy uses this on his drz.

And the there is the 3M Extreme Sealing tape mod, essentially a clone of the procedure with the Outex product.
http://www.supermotoaus.com/showthread.php?t=13776


In any case, have you been successful in sealing your spoked rims?
 
Last edited:
I'm kind of surprised nobody has made something like this for excel or other brands of rims

879056121.jpg


The silicon and or tape method, just seem a tiny wee bit sketchy, to me, and a bit of a pain in the ass.

http://alpinawheelsusa.com/products/motorbike-tubeless-kit-conversion/
 
PM Slackmeyer. He DIY sealed rims for his 950 Adventure.
 
Ah yes. I researched the tubliss system. Pretty trick. Unfortunately they don't make em for 17s". And from what i gather the bead is held on by the tubliss system. Your run of the mill street wheel has valley just above the drop center that engages the tire bead when pressurized.

I considered a fulk set of Alpinas, but man, beacoup $$$. But yeah if they made bolt-on sealed spokes for Excels, I'd be heading that direction.
 
Last edited:
I am willing to bet that if you just used sealer tape, it'd hold air and wouldn't mess up spoke tensioning.

Do ettt
 
Last edited:
How often do you tighten your spokes now? I used the Goop method on the rear of my 990Adv after I had the wheel trued and all the spokes adjusted. After 4k miles of hwy, gravel roads, rutted Jeep trails and partially graded new housing tracts that wheels right as a drum.

More miles and tome will tell, but I have yet to read about issues with spokes loosening. Of course spikes stretch but the nipples won't spin.
 
HeatXfer said:
How often do you tighten your spokes now? I used the Goop method on the rear of my 990Adv after I had the wheel trued and all the spokes adjusted. After 4k miles of hwy, gravel roads, rutted Jeep trails and partially graded new housing tracts that wheels right as a drum.

More miles and tome will tell, but I have yet to read about issues with spokes loosening. Of course spikes stretch but the nipples won't spin.
Click to expand...

This psot rimedns me of that cihan ltteer abuot how amzaning the barin is at dichephernig wrods.

:teeth
 
Karbon said:
Ah yes. I researched the tubliss system. Pretty trick. Unfortunately they don't make em for 17s". And from what i gather the bead is held on by the tubliss system. Your run of the mill street wheel has valley just above the drop center that engages the tire bead when pressurized.

I considered a fulk set of Alpinas, but man, beacoup $$$. But yeah if they made bolt-on sealed spokes for Excels, I'd be heading that direction.
Click to expand...

I ran the tubeliss system in the front if my 640A. It's cool, so long as you have 100psi on tap at home. The inner liner bleeds down after a while and most gas stations can't get near that. It's inbalanced, which can be overcome, and if the liner fails it's major roadside effort to correct things. For which you'll need a regular tube.

I liked it, don't get me wrong, but it's not really a tubeless solution. It relocates the tube inside a liner an protects it from being punctured. It's great if you want to run absurdly low pressures, decent for running a 'tubeless' tire and a nightmare if it fails outside of your garage.

Call Woody, he has solutions.
 
Last edited:
:rideHave 17K on my 990 tubbles no problemo, I used something called E 6,000 from tap plastics SM 610 uses some thing called The Right Stuff he swears by it plus it is easy to put on.:ride:ride:ride
 
all these ways of sealing up the nipples on a tube rim sound good.

how about getting the tire to seal and "lock" onto the rim?
i do not know about moto tires and rims but car/pu truck tires and rims are NOT the same for tubed ver tubeless.

barking up the wrong tree or is this something to look at?

.
 
packnrat said:
all these ways of sealing up the nipples on a tube rim sound good.

how about getting the tire to seal and "lock" onto the rim?
i do not know about moto tires and rims but car/pu truck tires and rims are NOT the same for tubed ver tubeless.

barking up the wrong tree or is this something to look at?

.
Click to expand...
You'd have to look at the rim. Most, tubeless rims and some tubed-tire rims have a bead valley that allows the tire bead to seat. Once the bead is seated the tire won't go anywhere. The excel rim on my tard have this as well.
 
Last edited:
It wasn't so long ago that all we had was tubed tires. The secret is to use a quality tube. I've had more flats on tubeless wheels than on tubed tires, no explanation for that but I find tubed tires to be just as reliable as tubeless.
 
Karbon said:
In any case, have you been successful in sealing your spoked rims?
Click to expand...

Yes.

I have used the so-called Cyborg method on two bikes, a DR650 and a WR250R, and I have not had a problem after about 20k of combined miles; haven't had a flat either, but it is reassuring to know that you can patch it up easily amd painlessly.

The fact that you don't have to carry tubes and heavy tools with you is an added bonus.
 
russ69 said:
It wasn't so long ago that all we had was tubed tires. The secret is to use a quality tube. I've had more flats on tubeless wheels than on tubed tires, no explanation for that but I find tubed tires to be just as reliable as tubeless.
Click to expand...

Im running michelin heavy duty supermoto tubes. They almost 2x as thick a regular tubes. Its not reliability im after. Based on my personal experience tires in general are overbuilt and can take a huge amount of abuse.

No quality tube will beat the convenience of a worm plug. I'd rather carry a plug kit and a bike pump and leave the irons at home.
 
I tried going tubelsee on my SM 17's for my husky. It worked pretty good the first time.

I bought some plastic round dot stickers, large enough to cover the spoke nipple in the enter of the rim. They were stickers. Next I put a big fat bead of sylicon in the center and smoothed it out nice and even. after it set, I covered it with a couple wraps of duct tape.

This worked good for me. they held up on my husky 450SM. The front rim did loose a few pounds (2-5) every few weeks. I could've redone the front rim, but got lazy and passed. adding a few pounds every week or so was not a problem for me.

Very simple and cheap to do. PS the vinyl dot stickers keep the nipple from sticking to ythe syclone. and I found the adjusting spokes was easy and did not compromise the seal of the rim.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top