RIDE REPORT: an 800-mile weekend on the Sierra passes

Just as last year, I am finding myself planning for a couple of weekends on my own, with the wife and kids out of town. And just as last year, I will put this time to good use with some motorcycle travelling.

The previous escapade was to the north, as some of you might have read: http://bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=459809. This time, I am heading for the Sierra passes, still on my Caponord 1200. My plan includes a few less-travelled roads so it seems prudent to ask BARF’s collective wisdom about conditions. This proves to be a good call, as fellow user 102704 helpfully points out that on this particular weekend, some passes will be colonized by spandex-clad bicyclists for the “death ride”. Colonized and closed to traffic, that is. It’s not much of an obstacle but I’m grateful for the information, which allows me to re-think my route and find one that makes more sense anyways.

Finding a motel room also proves somewhat challenging, perhaps because of the bicycle race. After a few unsuccessful phone calls I finally find a place with a free room. I give my credit card details for the reservation, and the conversation goes something like this:

- Front desk lady: “You wouldn’t be coming on a motorcycle by any chance?”
- Me (thinking: “Uncanny! How does she know this?”): “As a matter of fact yes, how do you know?”
- Front desk lady: “Well, because you are coming for two nights, and we have a lot of bikers coming to ride our nice passes. I’m asking because we have a special offer for bikers: a cold beer waiting for you in your room when you arrive. Would you be interested?”
- Me (barely containing excitation, trying to sound calm): “Why yes, that would be lovely, thank you very much!”
A motel friendly to motorcyclist and a cold beer on arrival? That sounds like the start of a good trip. The weather forecast is not completely optimistic, though, and it looks like I’ll be rained on during the first leg.

I like where this is going. Subscribed for updates! Those passes provide some very good riding. Enjoy, and be safe up there.

Which motel is this? Sounds like my kind of place!

Hoho said:

Which motel is this? Sounds like my kind of place!

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You will discover that in the next episode...

happy_rider said:

You will discover that in the next episode...

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But I wanna know now!!!

Day 1, July 10th (afternoon only): Bay area to Walker, ~270 miles



The plan for today is to cross the Central Valley as quickly as possible, and ride Carson Pass and Monitor Pass, on to my destination in Walker, CA. A little bit of research reveals two interesting roads on the way: N South Rd and Mormon Emigrant trail. I decide on an itinerary that starts on Hwy 88 (Carson Pass), crosses to Mormon Emigrant trail via N South Rd, and joins Hwy 88 higher up.

The day is overcast, which is not a bad thing when a part of the afternoon will be spent crossing the Central Valley in black leathers… I left early enough that the traffic is calm and after reaching Hwy 88 near Stockton I am pleasantly surprised by the landscape, not too bad for this part of the state which I normally don’t find that attractive. After a quick fuel stop in Pioneer, I’m getting ready for some goat roads. The turnoff to N South Rd is via Omo Ranch Road, which immediately welcomes me with wet asphalt, gravel and a pothole. That’s my kind of road! N South Rd is appropriately desolated and scenic.



Upon reaching Mormon Emigrant Trail the road enables a faster pace but the sky is looking dark and a few droplets start crashing on my visor. The forecast was right and I’m about to get wet. I decide that donning my rain suit under a deluge would not be so much fun. So despite the very light rain I stop on the side of the road and proceed to contort myself in said rain suit, which is very entertaining (not for me, for anyone who watches; fortunately the road was deserted). Sure enough, 10 minutes later some real rain starts; it’s not that bad but I’m happy to have the proper gear nonetheless.

So there are no pictures of Carson Pass, which was ridden in the rain an even for some turns in remarkably dense fog. I can’t really tell how nice the views are… To keep me on my toes some of the road is under construction and the pavement milled, revealing that characteristic slippery surface. Sliding the bike in the corners is fun uphill but I’m a bit more timid going downhill, especially in the rain. No harm though, and the weather has cleared once I reach Monitor Pass.



The preparation for the bicycle race can be seen everywhere. I am pleasantly surprised to see fresh clean asphalt on the west side of the pass; near the summit the view is breathtaking and reminds me (as if there was a need) how spectacular those trips can be.





I make my way downhill and reach Hwy 395, which will lead me to Walker.

As promised, the motel is welcoming and I get a cold beer upon arrival. They even have a banner to welcome motorcyclists!





There is also conveniently a restaurant on the other side of the road, which I visit in the evening. Gas is also available up the street, but not 24h a day.

Sooooo watching this. Very cool man.

Justin

Your in my back yard.
Welcome!

I fish the west walker a bit, driven by that place more than a few times but never stayed, good to know that they'll get my business soon

WILDMAN442 said:

Sooooo watching this. Very cool man.

Justin

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You're too kind!

terdog55 said:

Your in my back yard.
Welcome!

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Thanks! I sure will try to get back.

Day 2, July 11th: Tioga Pass and Sonora Pass, ~265 miles



The front desk lady had helpfully indicated last night that the gas station would open at 7am, and that there was a coffee shop nearby. That’s all the information that I need for an early departure towards Tioga pass (Hwy 120). With both the gas tank and my belly full, I’m heading south on Hwy 395 with the sun gently rising over the mountain tops. I’ve heard that the police presence can be heavy so I maintain the speed limit while the road lazily undulates between the mountains, following the West Walker river. It’s a relaxing start for the day, in a way that I think even non-motorcyclists would enjoy from the back of a bike. It’s a bit chilly too, and I am glad to have my jacket liner, especially when part of the road is above cloud level.

First stop will be the viewpoint over Mono Lake, which is spacious and seems like a perfect spot to lubricate my chain a little bit.



The road has been empty until now; however, traffic becomes denser once Hwy 120 is reached. Naively, I had assumed that nobody in their right mind would be on that pass; this of course failed to take into account all the campgrounds, trails, viewpoints and visitor centers that attract tourists to National Parks. The pass has a quite dramatic approach from the East, where a valley:



seems to stop abruptly against mountains, leaving you wondering how a road might possibly go through.



The summit of the pass (3031m, 9943ft) is reached quickly, where rangers help you get 15$ lighter before letting you continue. Given the traffic there is no point in being in a hurry, especially with multiple photo opportunities along the way.





On one of these photo stops, just when I was about to pack the camera, a young man excitedly jumps out of a car, runs towards me and offers to take a picture of me near my bike. It’s a bit surprising because he doesn’t seem familiar with how DSLRs operate but it’s nice and I wonder if maybe he’s Italian (he looks the part) and drawn to the Aprilia. Or his wife made him do it, I’ll never know.

There are still a few patches of snow on the grass on some spots; I miss a few opportunities to stop for pictures though, until a visitor center appears, which looks like a perfect spot for a quick break.



There is another viewpoint along the way, where one gets a nice view of the Half Dome, from the other side of the valley.



I have been to Yosemite Valley a number of times so I don’t stop on the way down, until the top of Priest grade where there is a small restaurant, providing a welcome opportunity for resting and eating. There is even cell signal, which allows me to let the family know that I’m fine.

Hwy 108 (Sonora Pass) is not far away; the typically progressive climb on the western slope is interrupted by a refueling stop in Sierra Village and slowed down considerably by people pulling gigantic trailers and not making good use of turnouts. One would think that being followed by 15-20 vehicles would send a signal to let people pass, but one would be wrong. Because it’s not worth getting aggravated by such behavior I decide to take a break at the first viewpoint; good choice, it is well organized with small trails, benches, a restroom and a nice view on Beardsley lake.





At some point, the road becomes narrow and winding, finally! The sign and common sense advising vehicles towing trailers to use alternate roads is apparently lost to some, given that within the first mile I meet a trailer going the other way, closely followed by the smell of its overheated brakes. This part of the pass is much more enjoyable and devoid of traffic.







I really enjoy the steeper, more desolate part of the Sierra, which is typically on the eastern side. After all that fun, the road finally joins Hwy395 and before I know it I’m back in Walker, refueling in prevision of an early morning departure, and getting some dinner. A couple of fellow motorcyclists have also elected to stay in the same motel, but don’t seem to be keen on making small talk.

Whats your return itinerary?

terdog55 said:

Whats your return itinerary?

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Hang on, last episode is coming!

Day 3, July 12th: Monitor and Ebbetts Pass to the Bay area, ~230 miles



Early morning departures not only allow riders to avoid traffic, but also bring a certain serenity that is most enjoyable, especially in the mountains. Hwy 395 brings me to a predictably deserted Monitor Pass. The conditions are not great for pictures, but I stop nevertheless for a quick one.



At the intersection, I turn left on Ebbetts Pass. Ebbetts has to be my favorite pass of the five that I rode that weekend. It doesn’t have the most spectacular panorama (Tioga and Monitor are better in that regard), but the riding is absolutely delightful.

The layout of the pass (between Hwy 89 and Lake Alpine) is interesting, with a steep and narrow approach on each side (the most technical bits of the five passes), and a surprisingly open one-lane road in between, with good sightlines. Also, there is hardly anyone to be seen, and I feel like I’m in the middle of the wilderness (well, maybe not quite but more so than on the other passes).

Unfortunately (or fortunately) I’m having way too much fun to stop for pictures, so you will have to go there see for yourself what it looks like. At the end of this exhilarating ride, Lake Alpine signals the beginning of the “normal” road, the typical western side of the sierra passes where very high speeds could be attained should there be no fear of receiving a performance award from a local agent of law enforcement.

The trip is not yet over, though, with the rollercoaster of a road after Angels Camp providing ample opportunity to enjoy everything that motorcycling is about. The slower folks are even nice enough to let pass and I reach the Central Valley with the satisfaction of having planned and executed a great trip, and the hope that I’ll be able to do many other ones in the future.

Thanks for reading!

Monitor and Ebbetts are two of my absolute favorites in that area.

happy_rider said:

Unfortunately (or fortunately) I’m having way too much fun to stop for pictures,

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Thanks for sharing!

This has always been my problem. On some roads, there are lots of great places to stop and take a quick photo, but I'm usually having too much fun to stop and take one... then at the end of the ride, I'm kicking myself for not stopping and taking more photos. Oops.

Hoho said:

Thanks for sharing!

This has always been my problem. On some roads, there are lots of great places to stop and take a quick photo, but I'm usually having too much fun to stop and take one... then at the end of the ride, I'm kicking myself for not stopping and taking more photos. Oops.

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A helmet camera will fix that. Here are some pics from my Ebbetts ride this time last year in wet weather.

rodr said:

A helmet camera will fix that. Here are some pics from my Ebbetts ride this time last year in wet weather.

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That's fine for some people, but I like to compose photos, not just grab whatever happens to be in the frame of a video. I always have a video camera running, I can just as easily do frame grabs from the video files, but that's not what I want when I take a photo.

Great pics and words.

Every time I go up there this time of year it smells like smoke!