Costa Rica for one

Alternative title, another questionable plan from Nate.

It's currently raining (again) as I type this with rain expected on and off all night, so the roads aren't gonna dry up any, I suppose. I guess they can't get any wetter?

I left San Francisco around 9:50 pm on Monday and after a 4 hour layover and a connecting flight, landed in Costa Rica at 12:30 on Tuesday. I didn't manage much sleep, I don't recommend this, but it did keep the ticket prices way down.

Thankfully my checked gear made it, and the bike was delivered and in like new condition.

It was crazy hot, and I had changed into my riding pants before leaving the airport, only to walk back to the airport to get the cash I forgot to pay for the rental.



Paid the guys and proceeded to repack everything to fit on the bike in while being cooked. Got there, pounded some water and made my way through Liberia. It started to rain pretty quick and I could see nothing but dark clouds where I was headed, but I had to get to the reservation. Somehow I lucked out and the rain had already saturated my route and moved on.

I was getting a lot of attention riding through the outskirts of Liberia so I didn't stop for photos until I was well clear of civilization. I was also drenched, because with 85% humidity, nothing dries.

On the upside, my route ahead looked pretty clear



Also on the upside, the majority oof the road was either volcanic rocks, porous sand or just river rocks. It was all wet, but the bike wasn't slipping and sliding much.

There was some slight erosion in places, and in some places I can't imagine anything other than a bike or a well setup 4wd getting through. I was maintaining a very low key 20 - 25 mph as the suspension is pretty soft on the CRF and I didn't want my weight plus my gear causing a pinch flat.



As such, the volcano and it's associated national park didn't seem to be getting much closer.



I kept plodding along, there were some concerningly sloppy mud holes, slick rocks everywhere, what would have been loose sand if it wasn't so saturated and ruts galore. I eventually hit pavement, but that was only a brief break as my route had my taking a left onto another dirt road through the national park to my lodging.



Don't litter folks



Thankfully not to far up the road I saw a sign for the lodge I was staying at. I'd see many more as they seemed to put them at all the tricky sections of the road to let people know they were in fact on the right path.




Did I mention everything was wet? But also scenic.





Very scenic, and jungle-y



Thankfully none of the water crossings were particularly deep, but there were at least four of them.



Also thankfully, the really rocky sections actually had bridges.



More scenic. It was actually prettier a ways back but I didn't stop because it was the third ranch where the local dogs were looking for a fight.

I also herded cows for a bit, as one mama kept giving me the side eye, I finally found a place to pass without getting kicked.

Starting to get some color, but I'm also close now



Home for the night, the guy who checked me in was nice enough to tell me I could park my bike under this awning to keep it dry, which I am very happy for as I type this during a downpour.



With any luck, I'll get some rest and things will dry out a bit before I head out tomorrow. I'm aiming to coger 70 miles or so and make it to the beach before 5pm when the rains are supposed to pick up again. Maybe I should have waited for the dry season?

I was rewarded with a great sunset, even caught a local rider going by





Drinks, dinner a new friend and a smoke on my porch rounded out the evening. I'd prefer less rain, but at least I'm not gonna get cold...

And.. here we go!

Hope the weather Gods are good to you and the smiles are fully engaged! Enjoy

Looks like a great adventure! Did you plot out your trip ahead of time or are you winging it??

Very pretty country for sure!

Looking forward to seeing more!

MTERK said:

Looks like a great adventure! Did you plot out your trip ahead of time or are you winging it??

Click to expand...

He shared some pre-planning HERE.

Awesome Nate, have fun.

Know anybody down there?

wow!

budman said:

He shared some pre-planning HERE.

Click to expand...

Thanks Budman!

I am seriously jealous!!

Why don't I have family in some beautiful place to have an adventure!

Looking forward to more pics Nate!

Weather cooperated despite torrential rains from around 11pm to 5am last night, must be normal because the roads were no worse for the wear.

I don't know a soul here, but I am meeting my some of my family for a shared vacation beach rental north of Tamarindo. Aside from airfare the trip isn't that spendy all things considered. Bike rental is running me around $60 a day assuming I don't bin it and incur damages, hotels are pretty nice for a less than 80 a night and food / beer is cheap if you eat at roadside sodas and buy your own beer (I haven't done that, because I'm bad at planning).

Airfare is probably the biggest line item, but I got my tix for less than 600 by dealing with some onerous layovers. The CRF i rented is in pretty good shape, tires are about 70% done, but good enough for a touring pace with no single track. Roads on the first day were the roughest so far, good timing since I was tired and short on daylight?

Anyhoo, day two is in the books and it was quite pleasant. I woke up around 5am to the sound of it *still* raining, the rain had started around 11pm and really got going an hour later, it was LOUD. I guess that is why they call them rainforests?

I stayed in bed until around 7:30 trying to get more sleep, but mostly worring about the bikes range and the state of the roads. Neither was anything worth worrying about. I packed up and headed to grab breakfast and coffee, the rain plus humidity meant everything was damp, even things I hadn't worn, but it really didn't feel bad given them temperature.

Opened the door to find this generously sized bug, it gave zero shits and never moved.



The coffee was stong, tasty and very welcome after more than a few adult beverages the night before.



The breakfast was even more welcome, really hit the spot, and the salsa they offered, while not spicy, was really good. (Not pictured, the salsa)



The jungle was alive with noise, and a few dive bombing humming birds.



As i was checking out I noticed this sticker, pretty cool. I saw about 10 cyclists on the road today, must be a fun way to see the country, maybe a bit hot though.



I really enjoyed my stay here and I was slightly bummed to be leaving, but I also intended to do a decent amount of riding so, it had to happen.

Once on the road I was pleased to find the conditions much better than yesterday, still rough and muddy, but nothing remotely technical. I was enjoying myself so much I forgot to stop for photos for a while.

I came upon two women walking a group of cows (and a bull!). They had an adorable puppy that they kept having to restrain from running in front of me to say hi. I wanted to go past, but the bull kept giving me the eye. I eventually passed while the bull was alongside a cow who I used as a bovine shield. The women were both chuckling, I assume because the puppy was being so cute...

I eventually stopped to get a photo at one of the many, many rivers / bridges. Depennding on which way you faced, it was either a beautiful day, or about to rain...

Cloudy



Sunny



That seems to sum up the weather and explain why the forecast is always for rain.

Yet another river, the water is such an interesting hue here.



I'd been seeing, and probably running over these wandering green leaf bits on the road, seems the leaf cutter ants were out in full effect today, sorry to the ones I squished.



As the sweat started burning my eyes I realized I didn't take any water with me when I left this morning. I decided to stop when I saw a soda to grab water, they had gatorade and pelegrino, but no water, I musta been in the bougy part of the countryside. I bought one of each and took a break to hydtrate, and of course forgot to get a photo.

A little ways later I created a hill and realized the blue I was seeing in the distance was Lago Colcibolca (aka Lake Nicaragua). Loks huge on the map.



Despite being so near volcanoes all morning, I hadn't seen them yet as they remained shrouded in clouds.



I continued on and as I got further north and west I started to see bits of it.



Also pavement appeared, and more of the volcano



I took a detour to La Garita, as it was purportedly a cool tourist spot with a zoo and botanical gardens. Well it's scenic, but had none of those things, I think the internet was wrong, or I got the wrong town. Road to and from was fun so no complaints.

Pretty countryside just north of town



I stopped in town for water, and older woman who owned the shop asked me if I spoke any spanish, which I really don't but we smiled at each other and she told me it was her son who I bought my water from in the store with a big smile, and then proceeded to walk across the street to sweep and clean the public bus stop.

Ah water, and bad selfies.



It was hot, doesn't matter what gear you are wearing in 85 degree 85% humidity.

The local school across the street, no one was in school so I think it may have been a holiday?



As I got back to the main road, the volcano was finally in full view, albeit a little further away.



I continued on the main road and as I created a hill the pacific ocean came into view, so I stopped (I also needed to pee)



I was technically a bit early for check in so I rode to a nearby beach. Views on the way were just fine.



Quite the view, some teens nearby were throwing rocks at bottles and getting excited when one broke, I was miffed until I recalled that 14 year old me would have done something stupid like that too.



As I sat there finishing the gatorade I bought earlier a group on an ATV tour pulled up and I chatted with them and their guides, someone asked if I was camping and I made it clear I am no where near that hard core, hotels please. Speakling of which, this one is a bit fancy, but I',m happy to have the A/C for the night to dry out my gear. Tomorrow I'm targeting 95 miles of beaches and forests as I start heading south.

Damn awesome and that ocean pic !
Water is good…

…. Water is the source of all life!

Fucking-A-Right! Fun stuff..

80 miles today, beaches and then forests, most of it spend in either Santa Rosa or Guancoste national parks. 5 hours out probably. Gonna be scenic, gonna be hot. But first, I'm gonna sit here and finish this coffee -

https://maps.app.goo.gl/DiyAzby56zrCjxZo7

Looks grand, Nathan!

Most awesome.

Love it!

Nathan!!! Thank you so much for including us on your ride!! The photos are fantastic coupled with a fab write up

ThumperX said:

Nathan!!! Thank you so much for including us on your ride!! The photos are fantastic coupled with a fab write up

Click to expand...

+1, super awesome Mr Na4eTheGrate, as always! arty

Glad to share, and it's probably better getting it from me in written form than droning on after a few too many beers

And on that note, allow me to drone on, after a few too few beers (my hosts appear to have gone to bed).

I got moving around 7:30 this morning as I'm continuing to take advantage of the time difference to get up a bit earlier. I was definitely feeling a little worse for the wear after yesterday, and also itchy because I foolishly watched the sunset from the beach and was attached by no-see-ums of some sort, then later found out my long sleeve sun shirt is no match for the mosquitoes here. As such, I'm sitting inside my room to post this tonight as it's warm and full of bugs outside.

Breakfast hit the spot and I may have had one cup too many of the coffee, but it got me going, and I was packed and on the road by 10:30

Breakfast and caffeine



My first stop was a beach in Santa Rosa national park, the weather was warm, but the roads were in good shape and I was making good time. My route took me through wildlife refuse and the surroundings were beautiful, I eventually stopped for a shot, and then another when I got a good view of the pacific.

Tree tunnel



Junquillal Bay



As I passed through the town of Cuajiniquil I felt compelled to stop for a picture.



The road to Playa Blanca was a rough two track with three river crossings. The first one was pretty shallow, the second one looked shallow but was in fact about the axles hard to tell when the water is so clear, but it sure does make picking a line easy. The third one was the one I finally remembered to stop and take a picture at. Loose gravel, but pretty shallow.



Shortly after the third river crossing I saw a sign for the park, I didn't see anything about stopping there, so I continued on, until I came across some concerning mud. I walked forward to scout it, and when I turned around noticed a park ranger standing next to my bike. Turns out, you can't ride the road past the sign, clearly people have been doing it, I'd suggest a gate. On the upside, I was considering turning around and now I had a good excuse.



Maybe that poll used to be a gate?



I think since I'd stopped to look, didn't speak any spanish really and did my best to apologize he let me off with nothing, just motioned for me to turn around. So off I went. It had gotten quite hot and the quick walk to scout the road ahead didn't help, but there was a public beach back near town, so I figured I should at least see A beach.

And I did

Seemed like you could drive on the beach, but I wasn't interested in trying my luck on the sand in the heat. I did walk out for a quick view. It was ok I guess.



I got back to town and hit the supermarket for fluids, I don't usually drink these sugary sports drinks, but I figured I was sweating enough to need whatever electrolytes were in there.



I probably sat there for about 30 minutes, there was a nice breeze and I slowly cooled off while watching folks come and go.I realized that breeze was being driven by a big bank of purple clouds and hoped it was pushing them further south. I finally geared up and headed east out of town to catch highway 1, the plan was a quick gas stop and then riding into Guanacoste National Park for a closer view of the volcanoes.

The road up over the coastal ridge to 1 was nice and twisty and a bit wet, so taking time to cool off had likely avoided the storm. I got to my gas stop, and it wasn't.

Well, this is a gas station (as in compressed gasses), and yet not a gas station, nice try Google. Luckily La Cruz was only 15 minutes further north, I gassed up there yesterday.



On the way to Laz Cruz I passed a restobar and decided to stop there on the way back for food to let the weather move further away. It was worth the stop.





I've been wishing I spoke spanish more than a handful of words, as folks have wanted to chat, but quickly realized that wasn't gonna be easy, case in point the husband who was doing some wood work outside asked me if I'd come from Nicaragua I tried to answer, but we both kinda agreed a conversation wasn't happening

I took off ready to see a volcano. When I missed my turn because it was just a nondescript dirt track off the highway, I should have known I was in for an adventure. The road started out acceptable but rough, and then threw section at me that made me wonder if I was lost, but then a bridge would keep me going.

So far so good





The dirt matches my bike!



Bridge looks legit, this was the third one.

Then three was a turn I was supposed to take that simply didn't exist, and while the road appeared to continue following the powerline, I had no idea where that would take me, aside from east, which was the wrong direction, so I backtracked to 1. It was fun to see my tire tracks emblazoned in the muddy sections, thankfully only a few spots were really soupy, and those weren't too deep.

This is where I called it



Decent payout on the views though



Bike is getting a nice patina of mud and foliage by now




My route was foiled yet again as I rode into Santa Rosa National Park when I saw a sign along the main rode stating that reservations were required for all entry up ahead, so much for just riding through. Oh well, it was 3pm and I was getting tired. I stopped for a viewpoint and turned around to take 1 the rest of the way to my hotel.



Heck of a view





Clearly they'd had a bit of rain today.



Got to my hotel by 4:30, and was showered and changed with a beer in hand for sunset, managed to catch a rider cruising by

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHd6fYodvazHW8MVjiNU55EUMpNs3AO6gC9_a1mzr4i55ERs6Ian4-MIsXVpOvuZmBGEZ3ZdTulsyzZKElLQFmFXsh954w8NqI8gTGjTmdEzMlkvvG7xhWXIwLBjz_WZ7sYnA-NcQ5NeBca3C_hjY9_u-Q=w1088-no-gm?authuser=0[/IMG

I was the only one staying here and the old couple who were caretakers and I muddled though communication via Google translate.

They were nice enough to offer primo parking for the moto

[IMG]https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/pw/ADCreHc20i_55D2fdu_HvJqNewhVX-PhHjV3r58cl7hNUfrPTPRLmiI-0zFZ8crUy-36SaMEHvamLr6u6UYhquFu2EJM6sBL4WvRIGQaK0IE7BkXkpLYEYs2K3jb9Y5s5Tj4GFyBNn8k8y3Rb5c9aNhtjO1zVw=w1088-no-gm?authuser=0

Dinner was good and now I think I'll just lounge around and try to sleep early.



Tomorrow is 80 miles or so, then beach time with family for the next five days. The bike will probably see less use, but I'll likely take a few day trips during that time.

What are those white blocks that are on your plate. Pieces of cheese?

That's it, it's a soft cheese and you tend to get a slice with every meal, sometimes it's a little firm, but the flavor is mild and salty. The stuff I had on my first day was a little softer and really tasty.