Alaska - The ride report

[N4teTheGreat]

Gas stop / coffee break in Glennallen, a few GS riders were gearing up as I rolled up, asked about where everyone was coming / going/ They thought I'd done the Dempster based on the state of my bike theirs were quite clean.

Glennallen airport, I saw some even smaller airports but didn't stop, bush planes everywhere.

I stopped for a pee break and saw a road leading to the creek, so, obligatory photo of my bike next to a creek. Indian Creek to be exact.

I passed through rain here and there on the final 130 miles, but mostly the weather was great.

Stopped to read the sign

Getting closer to Tok, looked like it was gonna be a nice finish. It was.

I couple really deep gravel sections, but I just let the bike dance. Views for days though.

Tank ran dry about 8 miles from Tok, 136 miles.

Deposited my fuel bag and I was off. Got to my spot outside of town and decided take out and a hang at the cabin was in order.

The guy who runs this thing used to run a custom motorcycle shop in Hawaii and apparently built a bike for Dennis Rodman at some point. Nice dude, we probably talked for about 45 minutes about bikes, mining, small towns, you name it. His son builds up old Toyota trucks and it's a good thing I don't live here as I'd probably want to buy one, the looked awesome.

Home for the night, I had a single room in the house, but mostly had the place to myself. The other couple arrived later hauling a trailer and they were just trying to get home so they were out early. They ride Harelys back in Minesota and couldn't believe I'd ridden my bike all the way here.

Golden hour chain maintenance.

Dinner, not as good as the other BBQ spot, but it hit the spot.

Played with my camera a bit, I cannot get my stars in focus, but I did catch a faint Aurora. Nice night for a fire too, which I managed to get going with some wet logs and lots of pine cones.

Time to check out, just need to finish my coffee out of this well chosen mug...

 

[budman]

Here you go again making me hungry.

The gravy comment was quite priceless

Some awesome scenic beauty!

 

[ThumperX]

Love it!! Thank you for sharing this epic adventure.

 

[berth]

Even the gas stops were scenic

Is that a glacier way in the back there?

Stopped to read the sign

I just gotta wonder these expeditions. Basically out in the world for months on end. Dragging boats up rivers, over land to get past waterfalls and such.

Played with my camera a bit, I cannot get my stars in focus,

Is the the Pleiades in the trees there?

 

[TowerRigger]

WOW!!! Those pics are awesome!!!! If you get clear sky tonight... even more aurora than last night from the NOAA chart. apparently really long expose settings will get all the colour. appears you might get them entire time in Alaska and Yukon, between 11:30pm - sunrise. hope you get more of them. man those pics are really beautiful with partly cloudy.
Btw, my coworker was woking on Cell site near 7 sisters rmountain range on HWY 16.. .said its cleared up all week for 10 days so you should get a spectacular view on that ride down.

 

[Escape pod]

This is in my backyard right now, I’m pretty sure it’s a moose

 

[TowerRigger]

This is in my backyard right now, I’m pretty sure it’s a moose
View attachment 565348

Are you thinking .... hmmm did dinner just come find me? " mmmm Stew !!

 

[TowerRigger]

Well I have till 10:30 to check out today, so lets see if I can get this out before then, otherwise, you'll get a taster.

After a wet, overcast day I woke up yesterday to fog, but a forecast of sun. There was no coffee in my room, and the bartender had been pouring my whiskey generously so, coffee was needed. I decided I'd just go to the cafe downstairs and eat, waiting out the fog.

I did not smother myself in gravy, but for better or worse I order this mess. Reindeer sausage and all.

Suffice to say I would not be stopping for lunch. Which was good, because it took my a while to get going. I gassed up in Palmer, the fair was just getting started for the day, I considered it, but naw. The gas station didn't have a working air machine and I figured I should check my tire pressures at this point. Down the road I found a gas station with a pump, inserted two quarters and nothing. Went into the station, they gave me two more quarters and told me to try again. I fired up with one, so I guess one of my quarters didn't count.

I started with the front tire, only needed one pound or so. I hit it, checked and my pressure had dropped two pounds. I tried again figuring I was the problem, nope, down to 31psi. Crap. I broke out my bicycle pump only to discover it wouldn't really make a good connection with the L valve stem and couldn't really move any air.Crap. I was googling tire shops when I noticed a bike shop across the road. I decided to head over there and see if they'd lend me a floor pump.

The did and I was were I needed to be in no time. I returned the pump, walked out, and then thought better of it and walked back in. I didn't want to depend on just C02 cartridges in the Yukon as my tire gets further worn. So I bought this fancy pump with a hose and capable of pretty high pressures.

Ought to work in a pinch and and I can use it for my bicycles as well.

I should mention the scenery was hitting right off the bat this morning, but I was trying to make time at this point.

That said, about 10 miles out or Palmer it got even better.

A short while later I hit some road construction. The woman flagging motioned for me to jump to the front, so I did. We chatted for the 15 minutes or so I was waiting another rider on a Harley joined us. I told the woman on the Harley to lead because her bike looked nice and my tires were likely to throw gravel on the unpaved part of the road. Well, turns out it was more of a mud / gravel soup because of the rain yesterday. Good thing she was in front as when I got off a while later for another shot (and got passed by ALL those cars, the things I do for this thread ) my bike was coated in mud.

Since I was already behind slow traffic, I just stopped whenever I saw something cool

The road started climbing and threw me some fun corners, and I was enjoying being on the edges of the tires for a change.

I caught a car and stopped for a shot again

I got some open road and blasted over the pass without any further stops. As I started descending though, this view stopped me. I saw a few cars and figured they were enjoying the view too, nope, flat tire repair.

There was a small plane flying above, probably a sight seeing flight.

A little ways further and I was in Glacier View, and a view it does have!

I stopped at several vantage points, considered taking the access road to the glacier, decided I didn't wanna and just enjoyed it from the road and I cruised on.

Having not gone all that far yet, I focused on making some miles. About here though, I decided it was time for rain gear, for some reason.

Even the gas stops were scenic

Fall is definitely here in Alaska

HOLY F those pics are Beautiful!!!! That Bike and the storm in the distance... epic!!

 

[Grissom]

Nope to both of you

 

[TowerRigger]

Nope to both of you

a Canadian knows his moose... but didn't want to burst his bubble lol.

 

[Blankpage]

Gas stop / coffee break in Glennallen, a few GS riders were gearing up as I rolled up, asked about where everyone was coming / going/ They thought I'd done the Dempster based on the state of my bike theirs were quite clean.

Folks seeing that bike with California plates they probably think you’re a fugitive

 

[Escape pod]

Could back spray clean the engine oil cooler next time you wipe down your fork legs.

 

[N4teTheGreat]

Could back spray clean the engine oil cooler next time you wipe down your fork legs.

Noticed the oil cooler is looking worse for the wear, hopefully it lasts the trip.

 

[N4teTheGreat]

So, about yesterday. I'd do today as well but the cruise lines own Skagway and won't offer wifi aside from the bar. Seems... suspect.

Anyway, yesterday was a dream. I woke up from an awesome night for clears skies and the sun. Temp was around 60 degrees when I left at 10:30.

I stopped in town for oil and rags. The only oil close to what I needed was Amsoil. I barely used any, but peace of mind.

Now I guess I'm hauling that home.

Once I got that sorted and on the road the weather was spectacular, just the perfect fall day. As such I didn't;t stop as much as I could have, I was just enjoying the day.

I did stop here because I had not done a poop this morning. Most scenic movement of my life so far.

Late on a sign mentioned a historic road house. There was no house, but this pond was cool.

I crossed the board into Canada not long after this, easy peasy save for a few vehicles in the front of me. the bugs were all about me while I waited.

I wanted to stop in Beaver Creek for lunch but it was 2, damn time change, so I gassed up and headed out. I noticed my crank case was leaking, I assume I introduced some dirt when I opened it. Cleaned it up and it's seems fine now.

I kept cruising, occasionally stopping for good views, of which many were passed by.

Of which there were many

As I got close to Haines Junction the weather was clearly turning.

But still; damn scenic

I got to Haines Junction and apparently the spot I was staying was also the local hangout. As such I got showered up, went go get food and a few drinks and found myself in the middle of Friday night. I met plenty of locals who had great stories about the town, what they did in winter and how things have changed. There was one overly friendly guy who felt like a character from fast times at ridgemont high, but with meth. So that was interesting. I eventually went to bed around midnight despite my best intentions. A good night despite the hangover.

\

I rode today too, but also, I'm tired, so that's a tomorrow story.

 

[bikeama]

N4teTheGreat do you realize how many people want to ride to Alaska now. Keep the photo's and report coming.​

First thread I read when I go to Barf.

 

[Escape pod]

N4te Great adventure.
Showed me that’s a big backyard.
… pulling off this ride; exceptional planning and optimal timing,
I think would agree the weather and conditions has been pretty choice.

 

[N4teTheGreat]

About that weather...

I'd been watching the forecast for Haines and Skagway and it was all rain. So I was surprised when I woke up and found cloudy skies but no rain in Haines Junction that morning.

It was forecast to rain, and it was also gonna be cold, so I layered up in everything I brought and fired up the heated vest. I left pretty early because I wasn't sure how the ferry ride was going to go and didn't want to be pressed for time. This of course made things colder.

As I left town a sign reminded me that the next gas stop was 120 miles away or so. Doable. My route took me along the edge of Kluane National Park and preserve. The weather was cooperating so I stopped for a picture.

I was pressing on to get to Haines as quickly as possible. I still needed to get tie down straps for the bike and there was a Napa in Haines. I did stop for a few shots.

The ride was really beautiful and quite cold.

It is funny to me how low the elevation is and yet, I'm above tree line here..

Turns out this is the snow machine area the guy at the Haines Junction bar was telling me about last night. I can only imagine them all camping out here for days in the snow and having a blast.

I got into some thick fog after this, and at 80 miles my gas light came on, I guess with a headwind and a bit of uphill my gas mileage was not great. I saw a sign for Haines and considered the amount of range I probably had between what was left in this tank and my spare gallons of gas and I was no longer confident I'd make it. Time to keep it at 55.

The rain started in earnest right around that time. I saw signs for the US border, and after what seemed like forever I was at the border. The guard was cordial and I was the only one there, he said not too much traffic comes down the road this late in the season. I asked about gas and he said it was either 7 miles, or 40 miles. I was on fumes so 4 miles would have to be entirely on my spare gallon. I hoped for 7 miles.

It was not to be, the 33 mile Lodge was very closed. Since I was already stopped dumped my spare fuel into the tank. I presumed I had 33 miles to go based on the name of this stop, and I was getting 40mpg keeping a 55mph pace, so, I figured I'd probably make it. That said I kept watching the miles tick away nervously.

I stopped to grab a shot by the river. Apparently this area is a bald eagle preserve. Didn't see any there, but I had seen one flying across the road up near the pass.

I was properly raining now, puddles not he road and all. beautiful in spite of it, and I was mostly dry and not cold.

Haines was a bit soggy when I arrived. I found the Napa, bought a gallon of regular gas and paid 30 bucks for some cheap tie down straps and took off for the ferry terminal.

I was about an hour early. I confirmed my reservation, got my tickets and staged my bike. Unfortunately, there was nothing by the terminal, not even a coffee machine. Also, they did not load me on and off first, I ended up staying in the rain for a good 15 minutes before it was my turn to load on. ALSO there was no requirement for ties downs and nowhere to really secure the bike. I put eh tie downs on the handlebar and frame and snugged the bike on it's kickstand. The ferry was super stable so this was entirely unnecessary, but oh well.

The ferry was pretty large and I watched some really big fifth wheels get backed down the ramp.

Once on board I got out of my gear and kinda took over a table in the cafeteria. A banana was the first thing I'd had to eat and it was around 1.

Once the boat go underway I started seeing views from the windows and decided to risk leaving my gear behind to go walk on the deck. The clouds were lifting a bit and the views were pretty stellar.

As I started to see cruise ships I knew we were close to Skagway. I went back to my gear and got ready to disembark.

 

[N4teTheGreat]

Skagway was actually sunny despite the forecast saying otherwise.

I walked into my hotel ready to get out of my wet gear, but realized when I was told my room was not ready that it was only 2:30. Conveniently Skagway Brewing was right next door, so I decided that was a good place to wait and have a meal,

Back at the hotel to check in, this place was the cheapest option in Skagway and by far the swankiest place I've stayed the entire trip.

I unloaded my bike and then found it a nice spot in their parking lot.

And then I showered and sorted my gear out, not likely how the intended the room to be used.

Since the town has a number of buildings that are part of the national parks system, and it wasn't raining and it was early yet, I decided to take a walk around town. I took tons of photos which I will mostly spare you from, but suffice to say it's a cool town.

I also happened upon another brewery while walking around, so of course I had to taste their beer as well.

They had a great view, so I sat there for while, with another beer after the taster and watched the clouds come and go.

I settled up there, walked back to the hotel to get a coat as it was getting chilly, and went to try a restaurant I saw on my walk. They advertised fish and chips made with local caught fish and that sounded good.

It was!

I sat at the bar and got to talking with some folks who had come up from Florida to work for the summer, they seemed to be enjoying it there and they were fun to hang out with. At some stage I got my routes confused when asked where I was going the next day and convinced myself I'd screwed up and had a 500 mile day. So I paid my tab and excused myself to go to bed. When I got home I realized I had my days off and only had 330 miles today. All the same, it's good I left when I did as I wasn't feeling 100% this morning when I woke up. All told a pretty adventurous and generally awesome day.

 

[TowerRigger]

WOW! Rain or shine... it's all so beautiful!!!
Maybe BC Ferries needs to have a talk with that ferry co about bikes first on /off ...LOL!!!

That pass from Skagway into Canada is going to be a beautiful ride!! I'm sure the border guards will treat you well. They don't get too many bikes there this late in the season.

 

[N4teTheGreat]

Well it's 39 degrees (and sunny!) here in Watson Lake so while my gear has served me well down to 41 I figure I'll lie in bed sipping coffee and get another update posted while I let things warm up a bit.

I woke up around 8 in Skagway expecting the forecasted rain to be pouring down. To my surprise when I opened my windows it was just overcast, but dry. It was still that way when I finally got out the door around 10am.

I was not quick to get out of town, which was already crawling with tourists. I rode to the local outdoor shop and bought two MSR fuel containers as I'd come a bit too close to our of gas yesterday and wasn't interested in dealing with range anxiety in the Yukon. $$ well spent I think.

Then I went to get gas and took a moment to find the gas station in town that had something other than 87. As I rolled in a couple were in the process of fueling up their RV. The wife asked to snap a picture of me and then said "you must be having so much fun on that!" as I was feeling a little worse for the wear after my beer indulgences the previous day, it was a good reminder to ignore the hangover and enjoy the ride. We talked for a fair bit before her husband fired up the RV which was her queue to get going she did mention he's always chomping at the bit to get on the road.

As I was headed out of town I saw a sign for "gold rush graveyard" and thought that seemed like a worthy photo op so I followed the muddy dirt road through the train yard to see it.

I walked around for a bit and snapped some photos, but I was aware I had a long day ahead of me, so I didn't wait too long to get back on the road.

As the road started to climb out of Skagway I found my way around a few RVs and slow moving cars. I ignored the 45mph speed limit despite the damp roads and was cruising along enjoying myself when I noticed a bunch of stopped vehicles. I guess that speed limit would have helped me stop in time for the massive waterfall cascading down the hills, but I stopped at the next pull out for a less than idea picture. Trust me, it was very impressive. You can see hints of it in this photo

As I continued to climb to the summit of the pass I rode into the fog and some light drizzle. I stopped for a quick shot once I saw a large enough area to pull out as I was slightly worried about being seen.

I could also see the railway that runs from Skagway into the Yukon and back running a long the opposite side of the canyon from the road, that must be a scenic trip as well.

I missed the photo at the summit because I wasn't sure I wanted to be on the shoulder of that narrow part for the road in this fog, As the road started descending little bits of scenery started showing up out of the fog.

Then the whole landscape spread out in front of me, and wow, what a landscape it was.

Water rocks and greenery everywhere you looked. This all culminated in a large lake further down, right about the time I hit Canadian Customs. The customs officer asked the usual questions, looked over my passport and seemed satisfied and I was off. The road got pretty fun here and was drying out so I was running the GoPro but not stopping and enjoying an opportunity to be on the edges of the tires for a change. I saw a sign for the Yukon Suspension Bridge, and pulled in, then realized it's privately owned,a dn they've fenced off all the views so you have to pay the entrance fee to go see it. I took picture of their building instead and left.

Further down the road the corners opened up to straights and big views.

I had to stop for a picture of this massive lake that I'd been flanking for a while and as I pulled off I noticed a familiar RV.

The folks I'd met at the gas station were stopped here to enjoy a few hours by the lake. They were only going as far as Whitehorse so they had a nice easy day and the wife mentioned that while her husband doesn't like stopping, she convinced him to make some stops today to enjoy the fall weather. We talked again for aquite some time, about my ride, their trip, me being about the same age as their kids, etc. She offered me a peanut butty and jelly sandwich for the road which I thanked her for but declined as I had ideas for where I'd get food next. I think she snapped a few pictures of me as I rode off. Fun talking to them both.

I saw signs for historic Caracross and decided to check it out. I ended up finding the train I'd heard and see in Skagway. Guess this is where they stop. It's a cool town. I rode around and took a few pictures before getting back on the road. They had a gas station, but only 87 and I had plenty of range for the next gas stop.

I wasn't too far out of town when this stunning view presented itself and required a photo

Then it was another 20 miles or so of a nice road winding along the river. I stopped for a photo looking back on towards the way I'd come at my gas stop. It was a little bitter sweet to realize that for the most part, I'd now be riding roads I've already been on, but in reverse. That was one beautiful ride out of Skagway though.