Alaska - The ride report

[N4teTheGreat]

As I went to gas up there was a bunch of Harley riders some getting gas, some waiting on those getting gas and having a smoke. No waves or acknowledgement, I think they were the cool guys I rode up to the pump to wait my turn while the last guy sorted himself out, I think onf of his buddies realized he might not know I was there and rode up to let him know. He quickly hopped on his bike, revved it (sounded awesome) and produced a nice burnout on the gravel as I blasted off from the pump. I was suitably impressed. I gassed up and rolled away from the pump without producing any such excitement.

About 30 minutes down the road my bladder reminded me I hadn't stopped in a while and I pulled into a rest stop to pee. There seems to be a focus on pooping when it comes to rest stop graffiti.

There were two riders on those fancy BMW K bikes taking a break, I waved to them as I rolled out, assuming they'd catch me soon enough. I made it all the way to Teslin without seeing them, and then they rolled by as I was taking a break and getting gas.

I had a moment to think how far this banana traveled so I could eat it way up north.

It would be 162 miles between this gas station and the next, so I filled everything up.

After about 20 minutes I realized I'd forgotten to watch my odometer and checked, sure enough I'd just missed it rolling over to 60,000. Well, close enough I guess...

I'd stopped somewhere near or just past the continental divide, so I grabbed a few shots of the area as well..

The fall colors are definitely starting to pop, so, even though it's the same roads now, they'll look a bit different.

At some point the area levels out and instead of striking mountains, you just have view of a massive pine forest as far as you can see. It feels kinda like driving through the Nebraska cornfields, but just a bit more scenic with the forests and whatnot. I found myself looking off into the trees wondering what it would be like to wander in there. I had a moment where I thought camping would have been nice, then I remembered the temps and weather.

After about an hour of that, I rolled into Watson Lake and grabbed a snap of the sign forest before checking into my motel.

I got checked in, cleaned and lubed my chain while it was still warm as it was looking worse for the last two days wear, then showered and checked my restaurant options. Chinese next door or whatever downstairs. I opted for downstairs and had a good view of my bike while waiting for the food.

I decided to try something called Donair Poutine. It was not what I was expecting. Not bad, but nothing I'd get again. Gonna need a poutine palate cleanser at some point.

As that had been listed as an appetizer and I had gotten the "small" version, I also had ordered a main. Good thing this was my first meal of the day.

While not the most spectacular meal I've had, it hit the spot. I will say, they had some excellent taxidermy at the restaurant.

Just excellent.

I had one more beer at the bar and decided it was bed time.

 

[budman]

I h4te that nervous end of tank feeling. I tried to stretch my range yesterday and it was not to be but Alice's was close for a quick $10 bux and ride down the hill. Knowing the route and where the stations are kept the Willy's away though. I can only imagine being in the wild and doing that. You are one adventurous dude!!!

 

[CDONA]

Cold tank anxiety, pounding miles, map is not helping, next town, can I make it??

It is that relief when gas comes into view, shortly there will be a full, cold tank between my knees, , ,

 

[TowerRigger]

Welcome back to Canada!!! Man some incredible shots !!! Hopefully we can get you some really good poutine when in Vancouver. As a Canadian... that is not what I expect a Poutine to look like....lol!! Love the rest stop graffiti !!!!

 

[berth]

After about 20 minutes I realized I'd forgotten to watch my odometer and checked, sure enough I'd just missed it rolling over to 60,000. Well, close enough I guess...

Should send that photo to Ducati.

Bet they don't have many Motards. With 60K miles. In Alaska.

They might send you back a sticker or something.

 

[N4teTheGreat]

Might have to see if I can get anything out of Ducati, they might just be annoyed I'm not doing this on a Multistrada or DesertX as they intended.

Today was an easy day, just 212 miles from Watson Lake to Iskut. Given that, and the morning temp of 39 I was in no rush. I took my time and eventually got out the door at 10.

The guys I'd seen at the rest stop where here, getting breakfast I assume as they appeared to be geared up for camping., or possibly the apocalypse.

It was a beautiful day, I gassed up, grabbed another shot of my bike in front of the sign forest (it's huge). Considered walking through it, decided against it and took off.

I ways down the road a pulled over to grab a quick shot of the excellent weather.

I stopped at Junction 37 to say hi to Courtney, who I was able to pay for the sammich I rode off from. She handed me a coffee and I decided I'd just eat there. So I ordered another sammich, well, a wrap. I took my wallet out so I'd remember to pay.

Got to sip my coffee and hang with this guy while I waited. He would only relinquish his ball for a moment when a piece of chicken fell out of my wrap.

The wrap was stuffed and quite tasty. The spot was hit. I finished up my coffee, chatted with Courtney a bit more, and she gave me a parting gift, a plastic gold medal (I assume normally reserved for kids) but I took it as a compliment and will definitely keep it.

With all the gas reserves a Hypermotard rider could want, I was enjoying the heck out of the windy parts of highway 37 versus riding cautiously before. The weather was also fantastic. I did stop for a shot here and there, but mostly I was just loving the corners.

Ok just that one, and then I needed a rest stop break, I guess the good coffee Courtney had did the trick. Scenic rest stops around these parts. This was my second time doing paper work in the wild and I found both rest stops quite pleasant actually.

Per Courtney's suggestion I stopped at Boya Lake regional preserve. It was very pretty, and turquoise in the sun light.

As I was taking photos I heard a motor and looked up see a plane making a landing in the lake.

Helluva way to go for a picnic...

I watched as the pilot killed the motor and coasted to shore, then decided to keep moving and took off.

I occasionally remembered to stop on the straight sections for a photo.

Definitely worth doing 37 both directions, I saw plenty of views that had been in the clouds or behind me last time. Or just too rainy for me to stop.

My tank ran dry about 20 miles from Dease Lake, I was impressed it made it to 135, I threw in the spare gallon and off I went.

I gassed up in Dease Lake and decided to wait on supplies for tonight until Iskut (bad idea) and off I went. Fall was everywhere. I eventually stopped for a quick shot to show what I was leaving behind and riding into.

Things were cloudy, but I never got more than a few sprinkles. Pretty out all the same.

I stopped at the market in Iskut only to realize their selection was.. not great and their cafe was closed for labor day. Also, being an Indigenous village, not booze. Oops. Got a box of Mac and cheese, some cashews and water and took off for my spot. When I checked in the owner mentioned the market, which I told him I'd been to and mentioned the no booze situation. He happened to have three beers left be previous folks and offered them to me, sweet.

Also, it was a pretty cool spot to stay.

The view from my room was decent

 

[N4teTheGreat]

It started raining as I unloaded my gear, so I unpacked and showered. When I was done the rain had also stopped, so I took a walk down to the lake to check it out and walked the shore for a short ways.

The rain returned just as I was finished with a quick chain adjustment so I got comfy on the porch and just watched the evening happen.

Aside from the spider that just crawled over me and ran off before I could get it outside (thus increasing the chances of my ingesting it in my sleep) I've been very pleased with the place.

 

[Lucytriple]

As always, hilarious and gorgeous read and view. Some stunning shots in that last post. Still laughing about “paper work.”

 

[budman]

Indeed some beautiful pics....

Scored with the sea plane landing. Scored with the beers.. a lot of scoring in this thread.

 

[CDONA]

That pix six frames up, that looks like plastic, curved, not flat, maybe frozen, yet translucent,
How you do that?
Float plane, beer karma, any Squatch sightings ? The OG adventure enhancer,

 

[paul cbr]

Great story so far, props on bike choice! The photos bring back memories of a similar trip I did 10 years ago. Glad you didn't run out of gas like I did.

 

[ThumperX]

Wow!!! That glass for water shot :OMG!

These glaciated landscapes are stunning. Thank you once again for taking us along for this epic ride.

 

[280SQUAGGLER]

When i did my ride to Prudhoe bay on the multi i carried 2 750ml containers of fuel.
Sure came in handy on those long lonely roads.. ride safe

 

[N4teTheGreat]

As always, hilarious and gorgeous read and view. Some stunning shots in that last post. Still laughing about “paper work.”

Thanks, glad you're enjoying the thread, you'll probably be seeing the aftermath at some point

Indeed some beautiful pics....

Scored with the sea plane landing. Scored with the beers.. a lot of scoring in this thread.

I've had a lot of luck on this trip!

That pix six frames up, that looks like plastic, curved, not flat, maybe frozen, yet translucent,
How you do that?
Float plane, beer karma, any Squatch sightings ? The OG adventure enhancer,

I think I just got lucky and that's what the wide angle setting on my phone camera produces. I was gonna go back with my proper camera but the rain picked up not long after this.

Wow!!! That glass for water shot :OMG!

These glaciated landscapes are stunning. Thank you once again for taking us along for this epic ride.

I didn't realize how good the reflections were at the time, I was just focused on being able to see to the bottom in that clear water. Worked out great.

When i did my ride to Prudhoe bay on the multi i carried 2 750ml containers of fuel.
Sure came in handy on those long lonely roads.. ride safe

Surprised that'd do much for the Multi, that's a thirsty bike too. I've not actually needed the spare bottles yet, the gas bag was good enough, but I they gave me peace of mind on a few long stretches yesterday and today! Small tank energy is what I bring

 

[N4teTheGreat]

After and easy day yesterday today was a bit longer at 355 miles. As much as I was interested in getting an early start, the cold overcast morning and my enthusiasm for the snooze button kept me off the road until 10am. I twas 39 when I woke up and 44 when I left. Reasonable. Everything was damp, but there was no rain which was nice.

I reasoned I had enough gas to make it to the next stop even without my reserves so I took off and after passing about four RVs I didn't stop for a a while. Eventually I did stop for one of the many wooden bridges on the route. I meant to get a shot of one of these on the way up but it never happened, so here we are. Pretty interesting option, and I was careful to not be leaned over today in the wet.

The mornings section of highway 37 features a narrow roadway with a single yellow line dividing the lanes, or none at all. No shoulders to speak of for the most part and if you run off the road, well, you ain't getting back on without help. So I was judicious with my stops, both for time, and for not putting myself in the line of traffic.

Bridges can be a good place as they tend to have a bit of a shoulder at the start and end, just gotta beware of semis which take the whole lane going over them to ensure their load doesn't clip the sides. They own the road up here. Passed a caravan of them as well on a section with no dividers yesterday, enough room for a bike, not a car. Not sure if they saw me coming, but I was gone just as quick. That was a fun section. Just enough corners on 37 to keep it from just being scenic.

But it is scenic.

I was pretty close to my first gas stop, but getting close to running out of what was in the tank, so I decided to stop when I saw a pull out instead of waiting to run out in a possibly unsafe spot. It was a nice enough spot to add gas.

A ride came through from the opposite direction, I waved and he gave a thumbs up thumbs down gesture so I gave a thumbs up, appreciated the check in.

A mere few miles after this I was at my fuel stop. I was noon so I decided on coffee with a view.

And Poutine

This was a pretty good iteration, but, I could have done with about of 4th of that volume. I ate it all anyway. As I was indulging myself a guy on GS rolled up to gas up. as he got close to the pumps (or saw another rider) he stood up on the pegs for full ADV effect. I assume anyway, I rode that lot in and out sitting down comfortably

A big rig rolled in, I guess the guy wasn't making a delivery so much as getting coffee. I walked in to drop off my empty plate and heard him talking to the barista about a moto trip he had planned. I'd like to assume I inspire that conversation.

If you're bringing gas this far up, you don't mess around with a single tank.

I gassed up and got back on the road. I had a solid 100 or so miles to the next gas stop and really, anything.

Not sure how long it was before I stopped for this shot, but these sorts of views are all over the place (so much water) and I had been wanting to get a decent shot of one.

I didn't stop much more for that stretch. Not a lot of good places to pull out and I was trying to make some time. Also, it was a fun bit of road. I gassed up a Meziadin Junction and a guy fueling up his van commented that I "must have done a lot of miles" and I agreed. The bike does look like it has seen some things.

I stopped at a bridge I rode past on the way up, turns out the view is better from the bridge than the area you can walk to, well, now I know.

I am not sure where these are, I didn't spot them

Still pretty, just the view from the bridge (where you can't really stop) is far better.

I hammered on, I had another 100 or so mile stretch of wild country. The weather started improving and I had a nice tailwind so I was cruising.

I stopped for this truck, one of three cars I saw this way on the way up, and, all three are still there on the way back. I guess you have to figure you own shit out when it's this remote, no one is coming for ya. Seems they do put caution tape on the vehicles, maybe to let people know it's a known issue and not to call it in.

That run off is a bit treacherous

The weater really started getting good with about 30 miles to go to the next gas stop and then end of 37.

All of this had been overcast on my way up, it was great to see what I missed.

 

[N4teTheGreat]

When I got to the junction of 37 and 16 it was 75 degrees, versus the 44 I started out in. Toasty. I got water and a red bull and gassed up.

I needed to get a shot of this sign, I was too nervous about the road and time pressure to get one on the way up.

A couple with a camper van and a dog were taking a break by the sign and asked about my trip. We chatted and they offered to take a photo of me. I figured why not.

Yeah, it's better when it is just the bike

I was only an hour away from my destination. So I figured, lets get there and enjoy this weather.

But wow, this road was all gray and no views on my way up. Pretty spectacular in the sun.

Plenty of great views I didn't stop for later (GoPro got 'em) I arrived at my spot for the night.

Super cool and the cheapest place, by far, I've stayed the whole trip.

I unloaded the bike and made a quick run into town for beer and groceries.

Hard to see in this photo but this place has it going on. Motel, liquor store, pub and cabaret. Maybe I stayed at the wrong place?

Nope, this was the right place.

Then I attempted to make last nights unusable Mac and cheese purchase better. The result was, edible, but I forgot how terrible the liquid cheese sauce version of this stuff is. I ate the chicken and broccoli with some of the noodles and disposed of the rest, I felt bad wasting food, but, I'm not sure this stuff counts.

Kinda fun to cook at my own little cabin though

I've got clear skies and a few more beers, so I'll probably see how things look at midnight, though no Aurora activity is forecast for tonight. Maybe some stars and a cigar though.

 

[TowerRigger]

When I got to the junction of 37 and 16 it was 75 degrees, versus the 44 I started out in. Toasty. I got water and a red bull and gassed up.

I needed to get a shot of this sign, I was too nervous about the road and time pressure to get one on the way up.

A couple with a camper van and a dog were taking a break by the sign and asked about my trip. We chatted and they offered to take a photo of me. I figured why not.

Yeah, it's better when it is just the bike

I was only an hour away from my destination. So I figured, lets get there and enjoy this weather.

But wow, this road was all gray and no views on my way up. Pretty spectacular in the sun.

Plenty of great views I didn't stop for later (GoPro got 'em) I arrived at my spot for the night.

Super cool and the cheapest place, by far, I've stayed the whole trip.

I unloaded the bike and made a quick run into town for beer and groceries.

Hard to see in this photo but this place has it going on. Motel, liquor store, pub and cabaret. Maybe I stayed at the wrong place?

Nope, this was the right place.

Then I attempted to make last nights unusable Mac and cheese purchase better. The result was, edible, but I forgot how terrible the liquid cheese sauce version of this stuff is. I ate the chicken and broccoli with some of the noodles and disposed of the rest, I felt bad wasting food, but, I'm not sure this stuff counts.

Kinda fun to cook at my own little cabin though

I've got clear skies and a few more beers, so I'll probably see how things look at midnight, though no Aurora activity is forecast for tonight. Maybe some stars and a cigar though.

WOW!!! Now That's the weather I hoped you'd have on the Way up!! So the "great to see what I missed" .. those high snowy peaks in the distance are the Seven Sisters Range.
Love that you got the Hwy to Alaska Sign. Btw...I love Smithers brewery!! gereat beer, awesome brewery and fantastic people. Smithers is a really friendly northern Ski destination. The weather is supposed to get warmer and sunny most of the way down. I really want to borrow some of these pics as my work wallpaper. Especially some of these Bike and lake pics... stunning photography Nate! Maybe I need to hook you up with Destination BC Magazine.. you may need to have a contribution story in there.

 

[N4teTheGreat]

I was tempted to visit the brewery but really wanted to enjoy my time at this little cabin. My Aunt and Uncle mentioned they really liked Smithers as well when they were through here a few years back. It does seem great, and the folks I have interacted with have all been very friendly. Feel free to use any shots and if Destination BC wasn't some questionable writing, I'm down to try!

 

[bikewanker]

The Watson Lake sign forest sure has grown in 10 years.
Good entertaining reading, in fact I’ve been ignoring my library book!

 

[N4teTheGreat]

Continuing south, I woke up to clear skies and a forecasted high in the 70s, a marked departure from the temps and weather I'd seen up north. I wasn't really sure how to layer for a starting temp of 44 ending up in the 70s. I opted to ditch my long underwear and heated vest (which hasn't been on recently either) and that was good enough. I grabbed a few shots before I left and one gamore shot right out in front of the RV park. Definitely a good day.

I had a long ways to go, so I was focused on fewer pictures and more miles, but sometimes you gotta stop. I am not entirely convinced they don't dye the water up here, it really was that blue.

All that high test coffee had me making a few stops, but hey, even the rest stops have a view.

I stopped in Burns Lake for lunch

I decided on a cafe at random, only because it had two motorcycles with Canadian plates parked in front, I figured they know something. It was in fact pretty good, and pretty fancy.

The cafe was an interesting mix of high school kids when I got there, the blue plate special crowd along with some folks who looked like they'd been working on a ranch of farm they owned all day and were coming in for food and then some younger couples I'd be more likely to see at a cafe in SF. Not what I'd expect based on the towns exterior.

The other riders had left when I took this shot, I did seem them go over and eyeball my dirty ducati though. I do hope they were suitably impressed

I transitioned from a fisherman's paradise to what feels like British Columbia's version of the central valley, only, not stupid hot and way prettier. Nothing but ranches and farms for miles and miles. At this point the weather was good the road was fairly straight and I got focused on making time.

But also, it's lake country and there are lakes everywhere, so much water I can only imagine what it'd be like when the are was not in a drought. You could see some dried up areas that were probably ponds in a wet year and it was smokey from fires, so, the drought made it's presence known.

I remembered seeing this caboose in Fort Fraser on the way up and wishing I'd stopped, so I did this time.

When I hit Vanderhoof the fact that I am winding down this trip hit me, as this was the point where I started thinking, what the heck have I gotten into given the miles and the rain and all that. Now it seemed like easy street.

It's also the Geographical Center of BC, so a long with farming and logging, it has that going for it. I saw plenty of bikes out today as opposed to the rainy day I left here to head north. Seems everyone was trying to soak up this warm fall day. Actually, is it fall here, I didn't see to many colors... I can imagine though in a few weeks al lthe green I rode by which was beautiful will be mind blowing when it all turns.

I stopped at the museum to take a photo or two but didn't go in, I was not sure how late things in the small town of Mclease would be open.

Certainly looked interesting however.

I gassed up in Vanderhoof and took off, but about 25 miles later nature called. yet again a cool rest stop. Funny, I saw a few RVs I recall seeing yesterday as well. I guess we are all playing tag on our own schedules. I got a kick out of this trash can, apparently an homage to a '70s kitchen design.

I hammered on with about 3 hours to go. The smoke got thicker, but the weather stayed nice, the bike temp got above 145 degrees for the first time in a while. I guess those low temps have been doing my oil and tires a favor.

Smokey, yet perdy

The light and these railcars caught my interest. My stopping on the shoulder of the highway caught lots of wide berths, which, I kind appreciate. There is a certain sense of doing the right thing for your fellow humans in Canada that I appreciate.