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Alaska - The ride report

Well, back the reporting part of this trip thread!

Yesterday (Monday) I left Beaver Creek destined for Fairbanks, about 311 miles away. I woke up a bitch itchy, I suppose sitting outside smoking a cigar after several beers meant I didn't notice I was getting bit as much. The bastards got me on my hands, wrists, lower back and ankles. Basically anything exposes, even briefly as I later tucked my pants into my shoes, was fair game. Not sure how the road crews, particularly the folks standing around holding the stop signs are managing.

I had checked the forecast and was expecting rain, when I woke up it was cold and things were wet, but it was not actually raining. Little victories. It was gonna be cold out, like low 40s cold, so I donned all my layers and set my heated vest to stun (low), gassed up and hit the road.

I stopped a short ways down the road to try to catch a shot of this pond full of ducks, they took off as I attempted the shot however.

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Before long (well it was only 19 miles) I was at the border.

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As I rolled up to the checkpoint I made sure my GoPro was off and hoped my wearing it wasn't gonna be a problem. The agent, who had the highest, tightest military still; flattop I have ever seen was cordial, asked if I'd purchased anything in Canada, I mentioned I had a small bottle of whiskey and a few beers and that appeared fine. He checked my passport, welcomed me home and told me to be cautious of the roadway.

I stopped a little ways past the border at the Tetlin National Wildlife refuge, a swath of land set aside to ensure migratory birds have places to stop over. Because I'd changed time zones, the photos I took prior were out of order which confused me later...

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Everywhere I went the road was wet, but no rain, so my timing appeared to be lucky. I woman handling traffic for construction told me it had rained heavily not long before I got there. It was a bit of a wait and she asked about my trip, and was impressed with how far I'd come.

I stopped a while later to get a shot of trees in the Tundra, they are in the Yukon too, but I needed a photo of Alaskan Tundra.

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I pulled out for a view viewpoints, but either no one in Alaska knows what a view is, or the low lying clouds were covering the money shot.

I pulled into Northway Junction to get gas until I realized they only had regular. Since I had a spare gallon of the good stuff I didn't grab anything, but hot coffee sounded nice. Later I'd find out that this was a stop on the Valdez Fairbanks trade route in the region and a indigenous village. The coffee was good and when the guy realized I was sticking around until I finished it he grabbed me a chair. I sipped my coffee and realized I was actually too warm (yay layers) a woman who had been shopping asked me about my trip. When I told her I was headed to Cantwell she mentioned she'd been there working this summer and suggested a place to eat.

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Toasty and caffeinated I was ready to leave when a couple came in from their RV. They had German accents but apparently lived near Watson Lake in the Yukon. The guy wanted to know about my bike, told me he had a 1970s era Ducati which he loved, but "would never do a long trip on" we talked for a bit and I got back on the road, stopping for a few shots here and there.

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The cloud cover had it's own beauty even if I couldn't see everything.

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I came on the Tetlin bridge and gave on more scenic view point sign a shot. This one wasn't bad, big river, old bridge footing turned into a rest stop and a view of the new bridge.

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A piece of the old bridge, replaced because it's piers had been eroded by years of winter ice flows

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New bridge

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I made it to Tok and decided to have lunch at Fast Eddies

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I had the Halibut burger because there's a lot of Halibut up here, damn tasty.

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A group of hunters at the table next to me were on the phone with someones wife back home, they mentioned it was 41 degrees with a 20mph wind and noted that was pretty cold. I was pleased to note I had not felt cold, only battered about by the wind.

I came out after lunch to find this cool DR keeping my bike company. Matching bags to boot!

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Of course it starts raining right as I am standing outside gearing up, just sprinking though. I made it out of there dry.

Not far outside of Tok, I think some of the Alaska range was hiding behind the clouds.

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And looking to be getting a fresh dusting of snow.

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The scale of the mountains was there even if I couldn't see them entirely. Then the rain picked up and I was riding in a fairly steady rain for some time.

I stopped for a shot of this bridge as I'd ridden through that bit of rain, my bike was really steamy by the time I was done getting this shot. Definitely wet out.

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I was about five miles from Delta Junction when I ran out of gas, at a mere 100 miles. I guess the rain and headwinds were killing my gas mileage. I wasn't really out, I had the gas bladder, so I poured that in and rode on.

When I got to Delta I decided to stop at a museum that caught my eye before gassing up. It was an original road house dating back to when the highway was first established. Because it had been in operation for as long as it had almost everything it contained was still there. It was really fun to take in, I even helped the woman running the place that day get up on a ladder to attempt to block off a hole where a squirrel had been getting in.

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I thanked her for the time and chat, and headed out. As I was gassing up a saw a cool looking ATV sitting at a pump. A maybe 20 something girl came out carrying helmet, hopped on the ATV and gave it the beans leaving that muddy dirt lot. Sweet.

The day was getting long in the tooth and the headwinds were wearing me down so I wasn't stopping for as many photos. Also the highway north of the Delta Junction is almost Texas levels of straight road, so not particularly inspiring. I wanted to take pictures at Eielson AFB but signs made it clear that was not allowed.

I stopped for gas again just pas the base in a town called Moose Creek

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I left my card with the cashier who told me to flip the lever and wait about 15 seconds for the pump to go. I did so with premium and I was getting nothing. Then I hear the door open and he comes out and tells me they are out of premium, but he'll turn on the regular pump, ok sure I'll get a smidge. I go through the same motions and the pump is trickling. I hear the door open again, he says to reset the pump as it runs slow like that if you switch from one type of gas to the other quickly. So I do that and the dollar of gas I put in already disappears. This time the pump goes quickly. I go in to pay for my gas and we start talking bikes. They guy apparently got his license a few years back and has a Honda Hornet I tell him about my old Hornet and we talk about that for a while. He's getting more customers so I thank him and head out.

I stopped for a shot in the North Pole, because, of course! I really wanted to go get a beer at the Elf's Den, but I also wanted to get off this bike, so I kept heading out Fairbanks.

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Not long after I was in Fairbanks, both I and the bike were tired, the chain was definitely loose, the brakes were squealing a bit and the idle was hunting. Just Italian things.

I got to the hotel I was staying at and walked into what was basically someone's home. The lady was nice and got me a key and info on what to do, I think being so close to the college this place gets a lot of students. I was in a different building a few blocks away. I got there and all I can say is, design choices were made.

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Then I went into the room I had a key for, and it was, well, full with someone else's stuff. So I went back to the office where the woman checking me in quickly realized that yes indeed someone was still in that room for one more night. She gave me a different room and thankfully that one was not occupied. I dropped my stuff and considered going to a spot someone recommended, but it was 10 miles away and that sounded like a lot. I found a local bar / restaurant a mile away, hopped on the bike and headed straight there.

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It was a proper local dive with good people watching. I ordered the special and a beer, and another beer and enjoyed my meal.

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I'm not the kinda person who takes pictures of people, but I did marvel at the fashion choices on display. Particularly the guy wearing what gilers call "boy shorts" think soccer shorts, but, like, short, a hoodie and rocking one heck of a mullet. He looked like he could have been a character in trailer park boys before the writers decided to tone the look down. I was amused.

After dinner I went home, drank a few more beers, and changed my travel plans over a cigar, but not before giving the chain some love.

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At least it stay light pretty late up here.
 
Made it to Denali today.

I planned shorter days around the Alaska, partially because when I was planning the weather looked very wet, and partially because I don't wanna rush through the place I spent all this time getting to. Todays route was a mere 147 miles.

I woke up around 4am worrying about things I need to do to adjust for the Additional day for Haines and Skagway. Managed to fall back to sleep and woke up around 8am. I decided to find coffee versus making the motel coffee, got dressed and took a quick walk. Most of the coffee around me was drive through, but apparently you can also walk up to the window, and it's expected and people wait. I apparently walked past a car waiting for a bunch of kids to finish their order without realizing it and placed my order right behind said kids. Oops. In retrospect I realize now I missed the opportunity to ride to a Starbucks.

I drank my coffee, got a few nights rebooked and packed up. I was out the door by 10, but, before I could really take off I needed a deep socket to adjust my chain. Ace Hardware to the rescue.

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The chain was just a smidge loose, so a little tweak on the eccentric and moving the bike about to ensure no point was too tight and I was good to go, but, I was worried, as I do. So I decided I should do what I do at home, straddle the bike backwards to check chain tension with the suspension compressed. Only, I do this without a heavy bag on the tail. I got over it, leaned down and confirmed the chain wasn't super tight and had a small amount of up and down play, as I was maneuvering to get back up, you guessed it, the bike got off center and all I could do was set it on it's side gently. I did not take a picture but instead quickly got it back up and on the kick stand. Good start!

I put my jacket back on and hit the road noting the bike felt much better with that small amount of slack removed from the final drive.The road started getting windy and climbing just outside of Fairbanks, blue skies and green hills everywhere, I was feeling pretty lucky with the weather. I stopped at a lookout and while the photo didn't capture it, you could see Denali in the distance.

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Seemed like a good sign. The road was engaging and I had a tail wind and I was keeping a entertaining pace. Then I blew past this gem, which I think someone mentioned in my planning thread. I chuckled and turned around, because of course I needed a t-shirt.

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The woman running the bar welcomed me in and asked if it was my first time there. I said my first time in Alaska and everyone at the bar cheered. I wanted to stay for a beer, but I thought better of it, got my shirt and a pin and took off. They had some neat stuff on the premises.

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The tailwind became a headwind and the road straightened out a bit so I returned to a touring pace. I stopped to snap a picture of one of the several bridges I would cross today.

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There was a tour bus stopped with folks taking pictures, I decided to grab one or two myself before gassing up and continuing on.

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The road was straight and level for a while after Nenana with occasion views of the Alaska range. Eventually it started gaining elevation again and the views in the distance started getting closer.

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And then I was in some of them, at some points I was do caught up by what I was seeing I didn't even think about stopping for a photo or turning my GoPro on. But other times I remembered.

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After a VERY windy section, I was in Denali Park

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And of course the actual National Park. I went to the visitors center to figure out how to manage tomorrow. Apparently they have gear check so riding in should work out fine.

Of course, I got starbucks, as posted earlier.

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Sitting in the 60 degree sun felt great so I took my time before walking to the visitor center to get info for tomorrow. Then I decided I should go get settled at the place I was staying.

The views continued to be stunning.

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Of course, I was quickly apparent that those strong winds were from some rainy weather hovering about 20 miles away, where I was staying. Made for some great shots though.

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It was overcast, about 8 degrees cooler and threatening to rain when I got to Cantwell, but the little spot I'm staying in seemed nice and I am the only person here at the moment.

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I eventually met the guy who owns the place, he's a character, used to run drag bikes and told me I can go into his shop to look at his any time (photos to be taken of course). We talked for about an hour, he lent me some bear spray based on my plans in the park tomorrow and I went off to find dinner. Luckily there is a BBQ food trunk a mile down the road, and even more luckily, it's really good!

It's run out of boarded up gas station parking lot.

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But yeah, it was good.

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Tomorrow I'll ride back up to Denali to spend the day in the park. Might still get a few shots of the bike if the scenery permits.
 
Sorry if it's already been covered or considered.
Are you going through Anchorage? I think there are a few options there. 3D Powersports, 1025 Orca St n5, Anchorage, AK 99501 look like the do a variety of bikes.
Noted, I think I'll have plenty of tire left when I'm near Anchorage, so the debate is do it too early, or press my luck and run this tire all the way down. I'm an idiot so I'll probably do the latter.
 
Right on... made it to AL4SKA!!!! :ride

That BBQ makes me hungry even though it is not 8am yet. :laughing
 
Great stuff so far Nate! Thanks for sharing.

Skinny Dick's! Stopped there 30+ years ago, on a road trip(not bikes) with my dad.
Nice to see they are still rolling. Still have my obligatory shirt. :laughing
 
Waiting on the roadside bear photo. Several days in the area and Mt McKinley was always cloudy.
 
Great stuff so far Nate! Thanks for sharing.

Skinny Dick's! Stopped there 30+ years ago, on a road trip(not bikes) with my dad.
Nice to see they are still rolling. Still have my obligatory shirt. :laughing

You’d think they might have franchised by now. Location location location I guess.
 
So its been 10 days, how you holding up physically?
Better than I expected. I definitely am ready to be off the bike at the end of each day, but I think keeping the mileage down and having short days here and there helps. I did a six mile hike (round trip today) up and down a mountain, so, that may be something I regret tomorrow, but, tomorrow is a short day.
Are you encountering any wildlife?
Not really, say a Coyote, deer, plenty of birds and a chonky porcupine so far
Waiting on the roadside bear photo. Several days in the area and Mt McKinley was always cloudy.
I am the roadside bear whenever I run out of gas and have to use my spare fuel. Cloudy tomorrow as well so probably won't see McKinley but the park was otherwise pretty clear and sunny for my bus trip, so that was great. Fall colors are popping everywhere.
You’d think they might have franchised by now. Location location location I guess.
It's only halfway in if it's... halfway?
 
Today was a "day off" more or less in so much as I was just gonna ride to Denali National Park and spend the day there. I woke up around 8 and got coffee going. It looked brisk and wet out, but the forecast just up the hill near the park was 50ish and mostly cloudy. I figured getting there around 10 would work. At least the weather made everything looks pretty.

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I was packed and on the road closer to 10, but, good enough. I got to the bus depot and got my ticket and asked about bag check, the guy told me they had lockers for 50 cents right outside. I got a dollars change thinking I'd need two, but nope, these were proper and fit all my riding gear. Hiker mode was in full effect.

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The only real plan I had was to ride the bus as far up the park road as it goes (currently only halfway due to a landslide) and possibly get off and hang around if I was inspired to explore. My bus left in an hour so I had time to sip some coffee and get food to eat on the bus.

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The weather was looking decent

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I chatted with a few folks who were waiting for the bus as well, a couple on vacation and a woman from Washington who was up here working at a lodge for summer. They were nice enough to hold my spot in line while I deposited my used coffee in the bathroom.

And we were off, I was pleased to have gotten a window seat.

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The views along the road were great, I was glad someone else was driving so I could just sit there and take it all in.

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Fall was on display throughout the park.

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I took so many photos, I'll spare you and just show a few good ones.

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We turned around at the east fork, but had about 20 minutes to wander around, you could walk down the the river was and walk it, which is where the picture above came from.

And this one

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It sure feels like it should be at higher elevation in Alaska, but it's not.

Halfway bathroom break.

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On the ride back and woman who had been camping overnight in the backcountry ended up sitting next to me. We talked during the ride home about various topics. She gave me a rec for a hike, which in retrospect, might have been fine for her, but was ambitious for me.

It basically involved climbing a mountain near the visitor center for the views. I started at 3:45.

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Unbeknownst to me, that rock outcropping was the end of the trail.

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Things got kinda spicy

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I considered turning around a few times, but decided to keep pushing, particularly once I was told I was close (lies).

The view was worth it though, along with a sense of accomplishment.

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Also fall

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Also berries (I think) which had me talking to myself the whole time to avoid bear surprises

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I got back just as the park was closing, managed to catch a shuttle from the trail head to the bus depot where I heated up, rode to a gas station for gas and beer and then headed to dinner on the way home. Food was good, beer hit the spot, and it was only a little rainy when I left to head home.

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Since the place had an ATM I got cash for my room since that got my a discount. ROb came over to get it and we talked Motos more and he told me a wild story about almost getting busted in SF back in the day when he was a "freak" dealing pot. Fun to chat with him for sure, and the room has been very cozy. I'll be a little sad to leave but I'm ready to see new things on the road.
 
WOW!!! Those pics and views are incredible!!! Awesome that you included the Hiking Selfie!! I really love the pic by the river with the snowcapped Mountains! this is a really awesome thread! I come home every day looking for more and more, love all the pics... and stories.
 
Glad you all are enjoying the thread, I'm enjoying doing the things to create it! Was hoping I might catch Denali today but it's looking pretty overcast so that may not happen. Oh well. 3 hours to Wasila, probably four with photo stops / breaks. Easy day. If I can find something close by I'll do laundry today before figuring out dinner.

Any ideas about a souvineer of Alaska,
wade in one of those rivers and grab a nugget or two, , ,

Big adventure
Big Nugs
Big Winna,

Thanks Nate,
Funny enough, I saw a few guys walking along a river bed with metal detectors the other day, kinda figured that is what they were doing. Would be sweet to lucky find, not a bad way to fund this trip as opposed to my ever dwindling savings account :laughing
 
Hey Nate, if it clears up tonight... you may see some lights... they were in all of bc with clear skies... even from dt Vancouver

https://www.skaping.com/cypress-mountain/mount-strachan?archives=MTcyNDg0MTAwMA-YQ watch the Cypress Ski hill chair midnight to 5 am and pan the camera right..towards Gambier Island and then play forward and see.

Hope you see them supposed to be visible all week so you may get amazing views all the way down as the province looks warm and yummy for next 7 days.

Hope you get to see them.

GWFx4SaWoAAgTyx.jpg
 
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