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Burping the coolant and cooling system

Siris

Siris

Rookie
Joined
Nov 5, 2016
Location
Santa Clara, CA
Moto(s)
‘17 Tuono
Just wondering what's people's technique in burping the air out of the cooling system and coolant. I haven't tried doing this before, so wanted some concise steps. Lots of varying ways of doing so via google searches.
 
Fill the radiator. Squeeze every hose you can reach starting at the lowest point.
Adjust level again. Continue squeezing until radiator level is stable. Cap radiator. Lean bike over both ways. Check level again. Top off overflow bottle. Start motor, run for a minute. Stop motor, check levels again along with a bit of squeezing.
On my bikes I rarely have to do any more than this.

Mad
 
Maddevill said:
Fill the radiator. Squeeze every hose you can reach starting at the lowest point.
Adjust level again. Continue squeezing until radiator level is stable. Cap radiator. Lean bike over both ways. Check level again. Top off overflow bottle. Start motor, run for a minute. Stop motor, check levels again along with a bit of squeezing.
On my bikes I rarely have to do any more than this.

Mad
Click to expand...

This. The only modification would be to run it until it reaches operating temp and the thermostat opens up. Let the fluid circulate for a minute after that. Then check the radiator level.
 
afm199 said:
This. The only modification would be to run it until it reaches operating temp and the thermostat opens up. Let the fluid circulate for a minute after that. Then check the radiator level.
Click to expand...

Critical step in this whole process is to always let the coolant cool before taking the cap off the radiator. If not allowed to cool, the pressure build up will spew scalding coolant as soon the cap is cracked.
 
factory manual.

every bike is different. obviously get the bleed hole to the highest point and let thermostat open and system circulating.

some bikes like some KTMs you have to elevate the front. I use a ramp on my truck.
 
Last edited:
cal scott said:
Critical step in this whole process is to always let the coolant cool before taking the cap off the radiator. If not allowed to cool, the pressure build up will spew scalding coolant as soon the cap is cracked.
Click to expand...

That's how you learn not to do that! Who are you take the fun part away? :rofl
 
fast4d said:
factory manual.

every bike is different. obviously get the bleed hole to the highest point and let thermostat open and system circulating.

some bikes like some KTMs you have to elevate the front. I use a ramp on my truck.
Click to expand...
interestingly enough, my SV1000's bleed port is on the water pump on the side of the case, nowhere near the top
 
My ST would simply burp on it's own if I left air in the cooling system. Get the bike up to operating temperature, let it idle for a while with the occasional blip of the throttle. It may or may not need burping. If it does burp, don't be surprised if it blows coolant out the overflow tank overflow hose and onto the ground. Clean it up so no animals are tempted to drink it. (Poison.) Then let bike cool, remove pressure cap, top off slowly until coolant flows into the hole that leads to the tube that goes to the overflow tank, and then reinstall the pressure cap. Check overflow tank level and go ride.

FYI, always make sure that the hose that runs between the fitting just under the pressure cap and goes to the tank is in good shape and all connections are clean and tight. That hose must not only transfer coolant to the overflow tank as the coolant heats up, it also must not collapse or leak while the coolant is cooling and a vacuum draws coolant from the tank back into the main part of the cooling system. It's a two way street and a sure way to have an overheating problem is to have a leak in that important part of the system.
 
Junkie said:
interestingly enough, my SV1000's bleed port is on the water pump on the side of the case, nowhere near the top
Click to expand...

If it is anything like the DL 1000 or 650 that is a weep drain for the waterpump seal. If the seal leaks it allows the water to drain out and not into the crankcase and into the oil. The radiator purge/fill works the same as most cars/bikes through the radiator cap.

The DL650 manual advises tilting the bike left and right while the engine is warm and idling to purge bubbles.
 
dmfdmf said:
If it is anything like the DL 1000 or 650 that is a weep drain for the waterpump seal. If the seal leaks it allows the water to drain out and not into the crankcase and into the oil. The radiator purge/fill works the same as most cars/bikes through the radiator cap.

The DL650 manual advises tilting the bike left and right while the engine is warm and idling to purge bubbles.
Click to expand...
there's a weep port and a bleed screw

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