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Cable Clutch Adjustment...

Dmitriy

test
Joined
Nov 11, 2007
Location
Santa Clara
Moto(s)
KTM LC4's
KTM 4T
GasGas 2T
Name
Dmitriy
So a buddy calls me up and asks for help with his 2016 Ninja 650 Clutch... (Which has been replaced within a year already) it is slipping really bad and he can't even get on the throttle in any gear.
He says he has done some wheelie practice...

The adjuster is all the way in on the cable - the perch and midway down spot too (so the cable is as loose as it can be) yet there is a reasonable amount of tension felt as I take off the cable from its pivot on the clutch cover.

Disks looks mostly fine but definitely overheated steels. Order a new EBC clutch which turns into a fiasco because their catalog is plain WRONG. (The 2017+ model uses a smaller clutch basket and only 3 springs where as the 2009 - 2016 uses 5 springs and a larger clutch. Had to go over to the OEM parts fiche and locate what other bike / year uses the same clutch (ER6N / Versys of similar years) 3 Clutch kits later I have the right size disks.) Put that together and the pivot lever is still too far out.... Start looking....

The Aluminum clutch carrier and pressure plate were shaved down SEVERAL mm which compressed the whole clutch enough to cause the push (pull) rod to be much more receded into the clutch basket thus rotating the Pivot lever enough to keep the clutch open a bit the whole time (shaving the carrier and pressure plate even more until it couldn't anymore). eBay complete clutch later the buddy is riding his bike.

Moral of the story - watch those cable clutch adjustments, the lever needs to have free play / slack at all times
 
Not sure what you are sad about but wheelies are tough on components.
 
The parts were shaved? or i'm assuming just worn?
Interesting findings tho, thx for the warning.

I toasted the clutch on my new Ibex in just one day (mile 900). Some clutches just aren't built for "extreme" use.
Replaced with a Rekluse clutch pack in existing basketry, seems to be working just fine after todays test ride. No wheelies performed... today...
 
And wheelies can go horribly wrong. I remember an incident at the fan ride at a MotoGP race at Seca. A guy on a new yellow 750 Ducati was heading out on the track when he decided to do a wheelie. He reved it up, dumped the clutch and promptly flipped the bike over backwards. Besides crashing the bike, which he had borrowed from a friend, he blew up the clutch and broke his foot. Then he got ejected from the track.
 
Not sure what you are sad about but wheelies are tough on components.
That's very true. It is possible to do gentle wheelies, but it's not the norm. My biggest fear is the stress on the steering stem and head of the frame. That thing takes a huge load when you're smashing the front back down after a wheelie. I know the earlier GSX-R bikes would often get cracks in the frame head when coming down from wheelies.
 
Wheelies and stoppies
Other moral….stop trying to do wheelies.

You can have a wheelie nice day if you effectively stay within the
bikes sprung suspension travel... wheelies are tough on components
only when the suspension bottoms and you hear that definite metal to
metal sound of a spike load that may become serious enough to dent the
bearing races or flatten your balls...

RC45WheelieNiceDay.JPG
 
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Moral of the story - watch those cable clutch adjustments, the lever needs to have free play / slack at all times



Steps to check your clutch for drag... your gears can't shift
smoothly if your clutch is part way engaged...


1 Place your bike on the center stand...

2 Start engine and establish a warm steady idle...

3 Squeeze in the clutch lever and shift into first gear...

4 Hold in the clutch lever and note if the rear wheel coast to stop...
if it continues spinning trouble shoot the lever for travel and master
cylinder for condition... open the oil filler and look at the clutch pack
to note just how far the plates spread apart when you squeeze the lever...

If your bike is equipped with an cable then adjust the clutch lever
knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and check again check for clutch
drag... if you bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system and check
for bubbles...

Ultimately you want the rear wheel to coast to a stop when the engine
is idling and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...

Clutch close
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Clutch open
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