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2010 Triumph Bonneville SE won't start

That hose is an oil line from the cooler.
A torque wrench is somewhat delicate, I never use it to remove fasteners, yours must be a click type, with a ratchet head, like mine.
If you need more leverage, without more mechanized slop, breaker bars will apply a crisper twist.
 
Thanks, CDONA and Dmitriy! The plan of action is to soak the bolt in WD40 overnight and then use an appropriately-sized extractor socket with my torque wrench tomorrow (Amazon will deliver the extractors tomorrow).

If that doesn't work, I might borrow your impact driver/wrench @Dmitriy. Really appreciate the offer, thanks a lot!
 
A Dremel will leave a whole lot of abrasive material in the engine. You do NOT want that.
 
Engine? This bolt is for the starter motor located outside the engine on the chassis of the bike. How does the material get into the engine?
 
In that case, it may be OK. But what is a bolt for a starter doing going through the frame?
 
An impact screwdriver is very different from an impact wrench.

And impact driver you hit on the end with a hammer and an imparts a shock force perpendicular to the threads to break it free along with applying a small rotational force to unscrew (It also has benefit of the socket getting a better bite on the bolt head from the perpendicular force)

An impact wrench is a power tool that does not impart said perpendicular force, and will further likely strip the bolt head.

An impact screwdriver is less than 20 bucks on Amazon, and a great tool to have working on Moto's and autos that often have stock bolts
 
@ST Guy That is by design in the bike - starter motor is located at the bottom of the chassis.

Thanks for the detailed explanation @augustiron. I am waiting on the tools I ordered to make the extraction easy. Hoping those would work - if not, will buy or borrow the impact driver.

Pictures of the starter idler gear:
IMG_5988.jpg

Pictures of the debris I found stuck to the clutch cover (in addition to very small shavings and flakes) :
IMG_5989.jpg
 
Hmm! I will use a magnet to fish some out. Where do I look for it though? Just around where the gear was? I did find a bunch of shavings which I cleaned up but will look closely.

I have already drained the oil obviously so that might have also helped a bit.

Quick question - a friend recommended that I take the oil sump out and check for any metal pieces. That will be a big undertaking as I will have to take off the entire exhaust system, oil cooler, horn etc. Do you guys think that is required? Won't the oil filter catch the large enough pieces?

Another friend recommended that I circulate fresh oil a few times (put it in, drain, put it back, drain and so on). Do you think that would help? That is likely easier to do.

I would look closely for any more pieces etc. I also have the oil that I drained so I can inspect that too.
 
UPDATE - I was able to extract the bolt using a torque wrench and an appropriately sized extractor socket! So good news.

BAD NEWS - There is no room for me to pull the starter motor out due to the oil return pipe blocking it. The Haynes manual I am following seems to suggest no such issue while pulling the starter motor out. No idea why the orientation of the pipe on my bike is weird.
imageedit_13_9529629658.gif

The steel pipe (arrowed) is blocking me from pulling out the starter motor (black object in the rectangle). Any ideas? I guess I can remove the oil hose but it is nearly impossible to do so over a jack (the bolts at the bottom are not accessible). Is it possible to just remove this pipe and not the entire assembly?

Any help appreciated!
 
Hard to say without seeing the whole thing, you just have to remove/move the stuff that's in the way to get to what you need to get to to fix stuff you need to fix. That's the way of the mechanical world
You're doing fine so far, don't let anything stop you, and don't cut corners.
If it was mine I would definitely be dropping the sump and cleaning it out, there is A LOT of unaccounted for metal, And I would want the peace of mind knowing I did my best to find and remove it.

But that said, I've been working on engines and mechanical things for 40 years, have a huge tool kit, a garage, a lift, lots of time, other bikes to ride and a moderate case of German Engineer OCD.

Do the best you can
 
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I have an inch between my oil line, and starter, a finger width.
Did you try to count the broken teeth, how many from the gear, how many found?
I have been thinking of laying the bike over to drain/expose inside of the cases, and figure out how to spray something like kerosine, (light solvent) into the cases with something like a garden sprayer, with a bit of pressure. To flush it out.
The story about it running all this time with a broken gear, getting worse every time you started it, until it wouldn't start. The broken teeth have been flowing internally for a time now.
Magnetic drain plug ??
 
Thanks @augustiron and @CDONA

@CDONA - Do you think you have enough space on your bike to pull the starter motor out without removing the oil line? I tried on mine but there is absolutely no way to make sufficient room. I wonder how the guys who wrote the Haynes manual did it. They are pretty accurate usually about everything so they must have been able to pull the motor out without removing the oil line.

Yeah, I am also worried that some metal pieces might have already gotten to the engine. Although I have drained the oil but not sure if that helped much. I can look into magnetic drain plugs but if the pieces are flowing through the system, the oil filter should likely catch them. I am also planning to buy the following magnetic tool to pick up any remaining pieces - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RB3XBA/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=AAEZ8T8CQYRCB&psc=1
 
I'll drag out my factory manual to see what it says about the starter.

Went thru the manual, this is all there is on removal, it does talk about the oil line return, a few times about its' removal, like it is easy.
No factory info about the starter, shows gearing to it, and what is broke, motor not serviceable.
Move the pipe, and it slides out?
 

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Yeah, it is dangling inside so I am sure if the pipe is removed it will come out. I just don't understand why the pipe needs removal in my case but not in the Haynes manual or the manual that you have.

Anyway, I have ordered some crowfoot wrenches that will hopefully allow me to remove the top of the pipe. The combination wrenches I have don't provide me with enough room to unscrew.
 
Gentlemen, here is a video for you all of the bike functioning with all its glory intact:

View attachment bonnie working.mp4

So it turns out that the Haynes manual is wrong for my bike when it comes to dealing with the starter motor. It does not cover all the configurations for Bonnies. My bike required unplugging the oil return hose and also ideally the exhaust system. I ended up taking the oil return hose off but kept the exhaust system on. Then I disassembled the starter motor while it was dangling inside the frame allowing easy removal. Put everything back in reverse order and so far it seems to be working alright. No leaks or issues. Have only run it for a couple of miles and idled for 30 mins. Will take it for my first 50-60 mile ride tomorrow. Hoping for the best.

Thanks to all the wonderful people on this forum and the Triumph Rat forum. 🫡
 
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