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I’m on a big wave kick

Butch

Butch

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I have been before and put stuff in The BOOK thread, and yeah Cortes Banks is crazy but I just came across this… https://vault.si.com/vault/2006/08/07/the-jaws-paradigm
Which I have not yet investigated. She has written some really good stuff, some with color, but good. Still fun.
 
Pretty good article. She writes well and id i recall is an Olympic swimmer and hottie and knows how to use it. Her books “The Wave” and “Shark’s Teeth” are quite entertaining. And mostly factual
 
Girl writes… “Sucked over thefalls, the most disastrous place to be, he caught a flash of blue sky beforebeing slammed into the boiling whitewater and driven 20 feet deep. Panickingburns oxygen, so he tried to stay loose, tucking in his arms and legs, takingthe beating as the wave passed and then making for the surface. He was inchesfrom getting a breath when the next wave hit, sending him back down. This mightbe it, he thought, but let's see...”
 
laird hamilton described it best in one of his interview videos, a huge wave has so much water velocity going up the face of the wave that you cant even ride down the wave....

now thats pretty scary
 
Laird was / is and always shall be a bad ass.
 
kawikz said:
laird hamilton described it best in one of his interview videos, a huge wave has so much water velocity going up the face of the wave that you cant even ride down the wave....

now thats pretty scary
Click to expand...
I just finished reading "Ghost Wave". Awesome book that is a bit sciency. Apparantly these waves generate enough velocity for surfers that the fin can cavitate.
 
Biggest wave ever surfed! Crazy that it's happening in our neck of the woods these days
 
as much as i hate to say it, i think the hydrofoil crowd will eventually ride the biggest waves on earth. Gets you out of the surface chop, gets you into rolling monsters earlier, probably lets you go fast enough to avoid being sucked up the face too. Interesting times in wave riding for sure.
 
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The size is unbeleaveable.

Short of just the record run.
 
Alo Slebir slayed it. :applause
 
Being completely ignorant, I don't know a thing about surfing.

Is riding those large waves difficult, or just ("just") dangerous?
 
Mike95060 said:
as much as i hate to say it, i think the hydrofoil crowd will eventually ride the biggest waves on earth. Gets you out of the surface chop, gets you into rolling monsters earlier, probably lets you go fast enough to avoid being sucked up the face too. Interesting times in wave riding for sure.
Click to expand...

This break is for hydrofoils only, grom!

Screenshot 2025-01-07 092233.jpg
 
I was not really familiar with hydrofoils although I have seen a dude cutting up free ocean water on one.

I had to look it up.
 
budman said:
I was not really familiar with hydrofoils although I have seen a dude cutting up free ocean water on one.

I had to look it up.
Click to expand...
Check these guys out if hydrofoils have piqued your interest. One of my friends has been doing some design and fabrication for their drive system.

Mobility

www.navierboat.com www.navierboat.com
 
Watching this again this AM.

Reminded me of this thread.
 
berth said:
Being completely ignorant, I don't know a thing about surfing.

Is riding those large waves difficult, or just ("just") dangerous?
Click to expand...

It’s a faster, longer drop. Imagine the difference between skateboarding down a 5’ ramp where you might hit 15mph at the bottom, vs bombing an SF hill where you are doing 40mph+ for an extended time, the road is all rippled (not a smooth ride), and if you fuck up the hill lands on you.
 
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