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60's Honda CL 160 Rebuild as Racer

twitchmonitor said:
6061-T6.

Btw, wth is you avatar?
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LOL. It's a west-nile carrying mosquito.

I want to have a friend machine a custom upper triple clamp for my GSXR fork swap on my SV, but I am torn between using 6061-T6 and 7075-T6. 7075 has almost double the yield strength (tensile and shear), but do I really need it?
 
Gimped my way through a few things today.

Did a little work on the brake cable adapter I made a few days ago. The original brake pedal had a post that slipped through the end of the cable, so I had to come up with something else.

Polished up the lever perches. My inner perfectionist is disappointed but they still look ok. Let's just say that the imperfections lend to the "authenticity" of the perches. :laughing First pic shows one polished and the other not.

Then I put a coat of paint on the rearstand. In a slight drizzle. :|
 

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Abacinator said:
LOL. It's a west-nile carrying mosquito.

I want to have a friend machine a custom upper triple clamp for my GSXR fork swap on my SV, but I am torn between using 6061-T6 and 7075-T6. 7075 has almost double the yield strength (tensile and shear), but do I really need it?
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7075 would be good if you were making an aircraft, or using it to build a chassis. 6061 should be fine. And is more formable and corrosion resistant.
 
David,
Ouch! Mighty fine stitch job! Nice to see you are still working on the bike with stitches in your finger. Ha ha.

BTW, what did you use to get the carbon deposits off your pistons and head?

thanks
 
akathisia said:
David,
Ouch! Mighty fine stitch job! Nice to see you are still working on the bike with stitches in your finger. Ha ha.

BTW, what did you use to get the carbon deposits off your pistons and head?

thanks
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Sandpaper, wire brushes, brake cleaner, patience.
 
Abacinator said:
LOL. It's a west-nile carrying mosquito.

I want to have a friend machine a custom upper triple clamp for my GSXR fork swap on my SV, but I am torn between using 6061-T6 and 7075-T6. 7075 has almost double the yield strength (tensile and shear), but do I really need it?
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6061 or 7075? 2024. It's the fatigue resistant aluminum alloy. They use 7075 for the top part of airplane wings (in compression) and 2024 for the bottom (in tension, fatigue prone). Use 6061 where fatigue or strength isnt an issue, 7075 where strength is an issue but not fatigue, and 2024 where ultimate strength matters less and fatigue matters more.

If you were replacing your parts semi-regularly, design a highly efficient 7075 unit. If you're gonna be riding daily and not inspecting for corrosion cracks regularly, use 2024. Check out other tempers as well. T6 isnt the only commonly available stuff. The temper will give you high strength, but will make the metal more brittle, and vice versa.

Credentials (my balls are big, etc, etc): Mechanical engineering grad, I now design satellites, recently finished an aircraft structures training course
 
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Whisky_Richard said:
6061 or 7075? 2024. It's the fatigue resistant aluminum alloy. They use 7075 for the top part of airplane wings (in compression) and 2024 for the bottom (in tension, fatigue prone). Use 6061 where fatigue or strength isnt an issue, 7075 where strength is an issue but not fatigue, and 2024 where ultimate strength matters less and fatigue matters more.

If you were replacing your parts semi-regularly, design a highly efficient 7075 unit. If you're gonna be riding daily and not inspecting for corrosion cracks regularly, use 2024. Check out other tempers as well. T6 isnt the only commonly available stuff. The temper will give you high strength, but will make the metal more brittle, and vice versa.

Credentials (my balls are big, etc, etc): Mechanical engineering grad, I now design satellites, recently finished an aircraft structures training course
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Hmm. Interesting. When he get's it drawn up in solidworks, I'll ask him to do basic stress testing with the different materials. Thanks for the info on my alloy options!
 
Abacinator said:
Hmm. Interesting. When he get's it drawn up in solidworks, I'll ask him to do basic stress testing with the different materials. Thanks for the info on my alloy options!
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2024 ftw. Don't forget to check the price though. :rofl

I'm a 6061-T6/free-unknown-material cheap ass. If you are also, you'll definitely want to check your materials costs first. :thumbup

Satellite folks have money. :p
 
Abacinator said:
Hmm. Interesting. When he get's it drawn up in solidworks, I'll ask him to do basic stress testing with the different materials. Thanks for the info on my alloy options!
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The stress will look the same in all three materials because the modulus (stiffness of the material) is the same. Assuming you designed the unit for half ultimate strength,the 7075 unit would be the lightest (because it is the strongest of the three aluminums), but under cycled loading (like a motocycle or car suspension would see) the 2024 will not develop cracks like the 7075 unit and maybe 6061 unit would. The proof is in S-N curves.

Also, important around the high stress points is a fine surface finish (64 max) and a good surface treatment to prevent stress corrosion (anodize or thick alodine would do it, you would probably want to paint the alodine).

Cost is always a problem (and if you don't care where the material is from, its especially true :teeth), but commonly used tempers of 2024 are available and are relatively cheap. Don't forget, this thing is holding your wheel on. Not really a place you can afford to have it break.:thumbup

Lemme know what you end up with!:ride
 
Apollo said:
2024 ftw. Don't forget to check the price though. :rofl

I'm a 6061-T6/free-unknown-material cheap ass. If you are also, you'll definitely want to check your materials costs first. :thumbup

Satellite folks have money. :p
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some of us do, but they don't like to spend it... some crap about making a proffit :blah :blah :blah
 
Whisky_Richard said:
Cost is always a problem (and if you don't care where the material is from, its especially true :teeth), but commonly used tempers of 2024 are available and are relatively cheap. Don't forget, this thing is holding your wheel on. Not really a place you can afford to have it break.:thumbup

Lemme know what you end up with!:ride
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Definitely food for thought. Cost is always an issue and if I can find some leftover material somewhere, I'll be better off! :laughing

I'm talking about my upper triple clamp, though. Ya know, holds the handlebars to the forks ;) Not that I can afford to have that fail, either! :rofl

I'll create a thread when it's getting under way! :ride
 
Spent way to long trying to get my pistons in the cylinders last night (that's what she said). I figured out today that I was send .25 oversized rings, so that was that. I now have to find a new set. So the engine assembly is on hold for now.

But....I did finish the rearstand. Pretty happy with the result. :teeth Textured metallic and silver sparkle paint...it's what I had on hand. Yeah, I do like it.

I also got the new tach I ordered. It was cheap and fantastic looking. And that's how I like 'em.
 

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Did you check the ring gap? That would have prevented the problem of fighting the piston in the cylinder, and is an important measurement.
 
Sidewalk said:
Did you check the ring gap? That would have prevented the problem of fighting the piston in the cylinder, and is an important measurement.
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That's the problem...there was no gap! I measured the ring itself and then the bore. The ring measured smaller than the bore so I couldn't understand why it wouldn't go in. I think it measured smaller than the bore because it was out of round when I measured it (due to the pressure of the calipers). When I then tried to stick the ring in the cylinder and measure the gap I discovered that I couldn't get it in without it overlapping at its ends.

Next time I'll check that first. :thumbup

I also learned about the markings. Mine says R 25, in tiny characters. I had to whip out my loupe to be sure of what it said. The number refers not to radius as I had assumed, but to percent of a millimeter overbore.
 
hey David,

izzat 1 of Bob's BS GTO tachos?
izzit electronic or mechanical?

when's your next FC sojourn?
 

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FC= Foster City. Bob claims he has no friends,only differant levels of users. Whos turn is for pizza?
 
Bob's a pretty astute fellow - such wisdom can only come after decades of being 'used', eh?

"......well, if it feels this good being used - then you an use me up....."

I'll leave some items for David @ Bob's 1 nite this week
 
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