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V-Strom charging system failure

rodr

rodr

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Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Location
Oz
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CB500XA
Name
Rod
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AMA #: 2846730
UPDATE: This thread has turned into a discussion of stator and R/R replacement, so I've asked the mods to change its title to something more appropriate. Original posting content follows.

Looks like my '09 DL650's original battery died. What's a good place up this way (Fairfield) to get them at a reasonable price? I need a Yuasa YTX12-BS or equivalent, probably AGM technology.

Was looking at a gel battery on Amazon but then learned it has different charging requirements. Besides, would kinda like to get one locally to save time. Wally World's equivalent got terrible reviews on their own web site.
 
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High confidence in Yuasa, Interstate or Shorai batteries.

Anything else not so much.

The key with any new battery is how it was prepared and charged.

#1 The best case scenario is when the battery is purchased dry with an acid pack included. Load the acid, let sit for one hour and then put on properly rated battery charger for 8 hours.

#2 The not so good scenario is when the battery comes wet. How long was it sitting on the shelf slowly discharging? Was the battery prepped and charged correctly? You don't know. Maybe you get lucky.
 
Good info, thanks. But the plot thickens. Turns out it's not the battery, even though it's almost 5 years old.

I charged the battery overnight and it started up just fine. So I went out and got a multimeter. Resting battery voltage (after the overnight charging and then a couple of starts) was 12.64. Then started the bike and cranked it up to around 4K RPM. Voltage was then around 12.0, not nearly enough.

Crap.
 
rodr said:
Good info, thanks. But the plot thickens. Turns out it's not the battery, even though it's almost 5 years old.

I charged the battery overnight and it started up just fine. So I went out and got a multimeter. Resting battery voltage (after the overnight charging and then a couple of starts) was 12.64. Then started the bike and cranked it up to around 4K RPM. Voltage was then around 12.0, not nearly enough.

Crap.
Click to expand...

Fire the money cannon !!
 
Sounds like new stator and (possibly) R/R time :(.

I would recommend getting a Compufire if your bike doesn't already have one, they're amazing.
 
rodr said:
Then started the bike and cranked it up to around 4K RPM. Voltage was then around 12.0, not nearly enough.

Crap.
Click to expand...

Bingo. Good you did some testing. Reg/Rectifier or stator has gone kaput. Battery should be seeing 14.4v when the bike is running to charge.

Reference the battery/charging thread to diagnose which component has fried before you start throwing money at parts.

http://bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=394141
 
Toast said:
Sounds like new stator and (possibly) R/R time :(.

I would recommend getting a Compufire if your bike doesn't already have one, they're amazing.
Click to expand...

Will def look into that if the R/R is bad, thanks.

mototireguy said:
Bingo. Good you did some testing. Reg/Rectifier or stator has gone kaput. Battery should be seeing 14.4v when the bike is running to charge.

Reference the battery/charging thread to diagnose which component has fried before you start throwing money at parts.

http://bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=394141
Click to expand...

Saw that already, thanks. Might get a pro to do this 'cause it's gonna take a lot of time that I don't have to spare right now. It's a pain just to get all the plastics off and on again.
 
mototireguy said:
High confidence in Yuasa, Interstate or Shorai batteries.

Anything else not so much.

The key with any new battery is how it was prepared and charged.

#1 The best case scenario is when the battery is purchased dry with an acid pack included. Load the acid, let sit for one hour and then put on properly rated battery charger for 8 hours.

#2 The not so good scenario is when the battery comes wet. How long was it sitting on the shelf slowly discharging? Was the battery prepped and charged correctly? You don't know. Maybe you get lucky.
Click to expand...

:thumbup I definately prefer the type where you add your own acid, but often that's not an available option. So, what I do instead is to bring a volt meter with me and I reject any battery that's below 12.6 volts. And when I bring it home, I'll bring it to full charge before installing and using it.
 
rodr said:
Good info, thanks. But the plot thickens. Turns out it's not the battery, even though it's almost 5 years old.

I charged the battery overnight and it started up just fine. So I went out and got a multimeter. Resting battery voltage (after the overnight charging and then a couple of starts) was 12.64. Then started the bike and cranked it up to around 4K RPM. Voltage was then around 12.0, not nearly enough.

Crap.
Click to expand...

Bummer. Not even close.

If you can, find a MOSFET type VRR and adapt it to your bike. It's a superior technology to what is used on most bikes and is less prone to failure. You might have to do some rewiring and figure out how to mount it, but what the heck, you'll only do it once. I believe that certain Yamaha models use that type. And make sure that the bike the MOSFET VRR was intended for has at least the same or higher rated alternator output as compared to your bike. Higher rated if you have the choice because that way the VRR will be working even less hard.
 
Dealer quoted $675 for a new stator - just for the part.

:rofl
 
LOL f that, is it wrapped in gold wire??

I like the Ricks electrics stators, they're nice and high quality. It looks like they need a core for your bike though.
 
rodr said:
Dealer quoted $675 for a new stator - just for the part.

:rofl
Click to expand...

Ouch, if that's the part you need, but you don't know this yet. +1 for Ricks Stator and similar.

How much is the R/R quote?
 
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mototireguy said:
Ouch, if that's the part you need, but you don't know this yet. +1 for Ricks Stator and similar.

How much is the R/R quote?
Click to expand...

$195 for the R/R part from the dealer.

But cheapcycleparts for example has the OEM stator for $270.88, and ElectroSport has an aftermarket for $139.
 
Toast said:
LOL f that, is it wrapped in gold wire??

I like the Ricks electrics stators, they're nice and high quality. It looks like they need a core for your bike though.
Click to expand...

Another good option. Thanks.

If I can't get a reasonable repair quote, I'll have parts all over the garage for the next week or so. :|
 
Its fairly simple to test the RR and stator with just a multimeter. This guide can walk you through that:

http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf


I recommend buying a MOSFET regulator as said before. Don't buy an OEM replacement because it will just do the same thing your stock one did... burnout. I bought a used MOSFET one off ebay for like $30 and its still working beautifully. It used the same mounting bolts as stock and the wiring was very simple

Here's a guide on what that's all about: http://www.triumphrat.net/speed-tri...-diagnostics-rectifier-regulator-upgrade.html
 
Well. Got the plastics off the bike and found that I couldn't get anywhere near the R/R connectors without taking off the gas tank and airbox. So did that, and disconnected the connector between generator and R/R.

Couldn't run the engine to do any voltage checks at this point, but I measured impedance among the 3 wires on the stator side. 0.3 ohms between each pair. Then measured impedance from each wire to the chassis. 0.4 ohms each!

So the stator is shorted to ground and is toast. Right?
 
If your referring to this http://www.v-strom.co.uk/downloads/DL650K7Wiring.PNG then I would say YES that's a very bad sign.

My experience with my KLR was a Rick's stator and an Odessey battery shoved in there sideways (didn't make one that fit upright). Went with the bike after 5 years and still ticking AFAIK. The M900 has an Odessey in it for at least that long, gets a Battery Tender Junior religiously, and has never given me issues. On the GS I'm trying a Wesco AGM so far so good. Lead acid is for the birds and Shorai is for the racers and high tech crowd (also I want to see them proved for a few more years before adopting them). Measure twice and cut once. Use the good, proven bulletproof stuff and get on down the road. It's a Wee-Strom ride the piss out of it.
 
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