01 r6 battery keeps dying..

[ST Guy]

12.8 for a brand new battery. A good used battery can be lower, like down to 12.6, and still be a good battery. (Assuming everything else is OK as voltage is NOT the only indicator of battery health.)

If a battery won't hold 12.6 or better, I start to worry about it.

And lithium ion batteries have different specs than lead acid batteries. And frankly, I'm surprised they even work on systems designed to charge lead acid batteries. If fact, I don't understand the manufacturer's admonition to not use a regular battery charger on one, yet that's pretty much exact what you're doing when you run your bike. On one hand they say don't use a charger designed for lead acid batteries. And on the other they say using it in a machine with a charging system designed for lead acid batteries is just fine.

 

[Variable]

Morning fellas.

Here's what I have found so far.

ST: Battery, with bike off, is at 13.1v / at idle: 13.2 / at 4-5RPMs: 13.2+

From what I've read so far, it should be at 14v at 4-5K RPMs. So obviously, not getting any charge what-so-ever.

I did start to do a more thorough visual diagnosis. I found that one of the connectors in the rec/reg harness had a burnt out. This is common on the R1's and R6's of the 99-02 years from what I have read.

All other wires and plugs (that I can see) look okay with no burnt out plugs or connectors, all fuses are okay as well.

Question: Is it recommended when changing the reg/rec, to also change out the stator? From what I've read so far, if the rec/reg is the culprit, an install of a new one and the wiring harness, will fix the problem. Can anyone comment/have knowledge on this?

 

[ST Guy]

Only replace the stator if it needs to be replaced. The check is simple. Set you meter for AC volts. Disconnect all three of the big (usually yellow) leads that come from the stator from the rest of the harness. Fire up the bike (don't take all day about this as the bike will be running purely on battery power) and measure the AC voltage between all three wire combinations. (a/b, b/c, c/a) 'They should all read more or less the same and be in the range of 60 to 90 volts AC. If that checks out OK, set you meter to ohms and with the bike of, measure between each of the wires and the engine case. You shouldn't get any readings as it should be an open circuit. (Don't touch the wires or test leads with your fingers as that usually makes for a reading.)

It all tests OK, replace only the VRR. And, of course, any damaged or charred wires and connectors.

Also consider not using the stock VRR if it has a history of problems. Find a suitable VRR from another bike with at least the same capacity charging system, preferably more, and also one with a good reputation for reliability. You'll have to get creative mounting it and hooking it up to your system, but if you choose the new VRR wisely, the result most often is you'll never have charging system problems again.

 

[mototireguy]

Here's what I have found so far.

ST: Battery, with bike off, is at 13.1v / at idle: 13.2 / at 4-5RPMs: 13.2+

From what I've read so far, it should be at 14v at 4-5K RPMs. So obviously, not getting any charge what-so-ever.

Bingo!

No guessing allowed on what parts to replace. Run the tests as STGuy outlined.

 

[channelcat]

with all leads connected run a meter between the negative terminal and its ground. positive reading means current is flowing and you have a wire grounding out somewhere. icky.if when you run it, the voltage between the battery terminal s is between 13.8 and 14.2, there is nothing wrong with your charging system. if anywhere along the line, i forget what you were saying, you saw 4 volts out of the battery, than it is probably dead, sulfated and totally beyond redemption. I myself, nextbatterytime,m will drop $$for a Li-on.