2000 SV650 slowly eating batteries

[KittenMeat]

2000 SV650. I ride it daily or every other day. Had a newish Shorai battery, it died after about a month. Now I got a new second shorai put in, it died after 3 weeks. It's not completely dead, but it starts weak, and today it will run the starter but the motor wont turn over.

I noticed the headlight is pretty dim too, and if I rev up the motor it gets brighter.

I know car stuff really well, but motorcycles dont have alternators. They have stators (so I'm not a total dumbasS) but then I hear the first gen SV has a crappy rectifier. This one is a TL1000, but I think it may have flown its last flight.

Either way, I'm getting a shorai charger, but I'm super bummed I didn't get to ride my new tires. PRobably for the better since they are really greasy/slick since they are that new.


huge thanks to Sprochid on here. She is a killer mech and tire mounter.

<3 you folks.

 

[mototireguy]

This...

Please measure and report the following voltage numbers...

#1 Battery voltage key off?

#2 Battery voltage key on?

#3 Battery voltage when bike running at low-mid rpms?

This info will help us help you. Otherwise you're just guessing and throwing $100 batteries at the problem.

And also read this... http://bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=394141

 

[channelcat]

^^^^ r/r is a good guess, but not at all an absolute

+ nice to hear about sprochid. I have three mounts to be shod at some point. if she'll have me..

 

[ST Guy]

OK......first off, all motorcycles DO indeed have an alternator. The two main components of an alternator are the stator and either a rotor or magnets. (Rotors on motorcycle alternators are much less common as it's essentially a rotating electromagnet.)

Do the measurements described above. (EVERYONE should have a multi meter.)

Then report back.

If you do need a VRR and/or a stator, I strongly suggest asking around at the SV forums for advice. The Suzuki charging system isn't the best around and there are improvements to be made by going aftermarket. The trick is to know what aftermarket components are best.

 

[afm199]

The gen one RR is a piece of shit. It typically charges 13.xx, the Shorai needs 14.xx to just stay charged. As long as you run it, it's a death cycle. Do the tests, then get a GSXR regulator, Gen Two SV regulator or a GOOD not cheap Ricks regulator for the SV.

 

[channelcat]

Do the tests, then get a GSXR regulator, Gen Two SV regulator or a GOOD not cheap Ricks regulator for the SV.[/QUOTE]

right on, Comrade. you will be given a fair trial, with all your evidence presented, and arguments considered. Then you will be shot.

Just kidding, man. Evens Ricks doesn't push their regulators.

 

[NoTraffic]

As others have stated, the Gen1 SV has a notorious following of bad R/Rs. I was in your situation about 3yrs ago, I tried a Shorai and somehow my SV at the time just didn't like it. Based upon the starting cold weather temp, I would get intermittent luck with a Shorai.

After awhile, I just put in a regular acid based battery and it worked flawlessly. Also, you can use a regular battery tender on a Shorai as long as it does not have a desulfation mode for random charging (not meant to be a tender). I used one and it was fine.

http://shoraipower.com/faq

 

[OaklandF4i]

We should have a sticky in the garage section about battery's and a multimeter. A short how to by one of our more experienced guys that post here. Something simple about how the system works, how the multimeter works, and how to use the multimeter to check the motorcycle system.

Everyone should have a multimeter. Even a cheap $10 one is sufficient for this task.

 

[channelcat]

sounds like there should be a sticky about Shorai compatibility and specialness.

 

[KittenMeat]

okay on the multimeter...

#1 Battery voltage key off?
#2 Battery voltage key on?
#3 Battery voltage when bike running at low-mid rpms?

#1 : 13.25
#2 : 13.00
#3 : 13.1 at idle, 13.2-13.0 fluctuating at 4-5k rpm.

sounds like something is borked...
and really if it needs 14 to charge, then it's basically a slow death crawl as described. Time for a Rick's regulator! Maybe I can even charge my phone on this thing after that!

Shorai..."special indeed"
but it cranks nice and hard when its charged up...

 

[auntiebling]

okay on the multimeter...

#1 Battery voltage key off?
#2 Battery voltage key on?
#3 Battery voltage when bike running at low-mid rpms?

#1 : 13.25
#2 : 13.00
#3 : 13.1 at idle, 13.2-13.0 fluctuating at 4-5k rpm.

sounds like something is borked...
and really if it needs 14 to charge, then it's basically a slow death crawl as described. Time for a Rick's regulator! Maybe I can even charge my phone on this thing after that!

Shorai..."special indeed"
but it cranks nice and hard when its charged up...

You have more testing to do.

We should have a sticky in the garage section about battery's and a multimeter. A short how to by one of our more experienced guys that post here. Something simple about how the system works, how the multimeter works, and how to use the multimeter to check the motorcycle system.

Everyone should have a multimeter. Even a cheap $10 one is sufficient for this task.

That is a great idea. Someday maybe, perchance to dream. Maybe someday also there will be a function to search this forum

 

[mototireguy]

okay on the multimeter...

#1 Battery voltage key off?
#2 Battery voltage key on?
#3 Battery voltage when bike running at low-mid rpms?

#1 : 13.25
#2 : 13.00
#3 : 13.1 at idle, 13.2-13.0 fluctuating at 4-5k rpm.

sounds like something is borked...
and really if it needs 14 to charge, then it's basically a slow death crawl as described. Time for a Rick's regulator!

Sorry but not yet time to foolishly throw money at new parts.

Next important test is the stator output voltages. Disconnect the stator-regrect cable and measure the three AC voltages coming out of the stator when the bike is running at low-mid rpms.

 

[channelcat]

Sorry but not yet time to foolishly throw money at new parts.

Next important test is the stator output voltages. Disconnect the stator-regrect cable and measure the three AC voltages coming out of the stator when the bike is running at low-mid rpms.

good call

 

[afm199]

Sorry but not yet time to foolishly throw money at new parts.

Next important test is the stator output voltages. Disconnect the stator-regrect cable and measure the three AC voltages coming out of the stator when the bike is running at low-mid rpms.

This is correct. As an aside, it's probably the regulator. Those 13 v numbers are common on gen one regulators. And, of course why the Shorai dies.

But absolutely test the stator output, should be sixtyish AC at 4k rpm.

As an aside, I've never seen a gen one regulator actually charge at 14v or higher, .

 

[KittenMeat]

This is correct. As an aside, it's probably the regulator. Those 13 v numbers are common on gen one regulators. And, of course why the Shorai dies.

But absolutely test the stator output, should be sixtyish AC at 4k rpm.

As an aside, I've never seen a gen one regulator actually charge at 14v or higher, .

ALRIGHT! I DID IT! (came home with *just* enough daylight to do this. I try not to rev up the motor in my driveway, too, since my neighbors have a newborn baby and waking up a newborn with a revving motor is probably justifiable grounds for homicide, and my neighbors behind me are literally the sweetest kindest people on the planet)

here's what I did:
battery 13.3 today
turn key 13.1
no change at idle (last time)

using the Crowitis fault finding flowsheet http://www.crowitis.com/images/fault_finding.pdf

<=4 colors from r/r
"You've got a permanent magnet alternator system. Let the engine idle, and
connect the black multimeter-lead up to the battery(+). Connect the RED
multimeter lead up to the RED (or WHITE/RED = Kawasaki) output wire of the
RR. Leave the RR connected up to the bike. Check the reading on the meter.
Leave the engine idling !"

.13V (<.2V)

"Connect the RED multimeter lead up to the battery(-). Connect the BLACK
multimeter lead up to the negative output of the RR ( Suzuki :
BLACK/WHITE). If you can't find a negative output wire, then the casing of the
RR is probably the negative lead to the frame. Check the reading on the meter.
Leave the engine idling !
.17-.19 (fluctuates a little)

for R/R with <4 colors:
"Stop the engine. Disconnect the wires coming from the stator. These
are usually three YELLOW (or WHITE = Yamaha) wires. Switch the
multimeter to Ohms, the lowest range on the meter. Measure the
resistance between all three wires coming from the stator, so you need
to take three readings."

all 0.45 ohms

"Connect one of the multimeter-leads up to one of the
three YELLOW (or WHITE = Yamaha) wires.
Connect the other multimeter lead up to the enginecase.
Check the reading on the meter. Make sure the
connection to the engine case is a good one !"

nothing. nada. zip. tried every place I could find on the engine case, frame. Basicially everything other than sticking the multimeter lead up my nose and/or anus.

"Switch the multimeter AC-Voltage (Range at least to 100 Vac). Make sure you
DON'T switch it to DC-Voltage (=DCV or Vdc). Connect the multimeter leads
between two of the three YELLOW (or WHITE = Yamaha) wires coming from
the stator. Start the engine and rev it up to app. 5000rpm. Check the reading
on the meter. Switch one of the multimeter leads to another YELLOW (or
WHITE) wire and check the reading again. Switch the other multimeter-lead to
another YELLOW (or WHITE) wire, and check the reading again."

okay. so it should be this: The three readings are not equal,
or one of them is below 50 Volts
(AC)
all three readings were like 42-45V

it says stator is the problem if this is bad.

checked the R/R : everything checked out. One diode was at .510 volts the rest were .555-.545

Needs a new stator? :hs:

 

[mototireguy]

The three readings are not equal,or one of them is below 50 Volts(AC) all three readings were like 42-45V

it says stator is the problem if this is bad. Needs a new stator? :hs:

Stator output should be at least 60v. So maybe new stator time. Before clicking on the order button (throwing $$$) do a visual inspection of the stator. You might see some burnt coils...

 

[afm199]

Sounds like a stator. If you replace it immediately check the regulator. Five bucks says it doesn't read 14 volts.

O, I've got a few used gen one stators sitting around if you are interested.

 

[channelcat]

old airheads survive at 13.4 charging volts all the time. but thats old airheads.

 

[afm199]

old airheads survive at 13.4 charging volts all the time. but thats old airheads.

So do old Sv's with lead acid batteries.

 

[channelcat]

Shorai sticky, dawg. just do it.