2006 yz450f

[augustiron]

That is absolutely necessary, bIke will nor rUn wit out it. Get a steel extended screw so you can adjust it without tools.
Zipty or scotts make some.

There are a small spring, washer and o ring that go in there with the screw. Make sure the old ones aren't still in there when you install the new setup

 

[PASTAPWR]

That is absolutely necessary, bIke will nor rUn wit out it. Get a steel extended screw so you can adjust it without tools.
Zipty or scotts make some.

There are a small spring, washer and o ring that go in there with the screw. Make sure the old ones aren't still in there when you install the new setup

This!

 

[byke]

And that plate on the slide with the damaged o-ring, make sure you put it in the right way. It's easy to put it in upside down and you'd be chasing conflicting jetting symptoms foooreverrrrr.

 

[OaklandF4i]

45 pilot- Bike completely warmed up- Start with the fuel screw about 3/4 turn out, work from there.
I normally use a 42, screw 1 1/2~ 1 3/4 out.

Make sure to carefully check that vacuum release plate for signs of wear. Hopefully it's OK, about a 100 bucks to replace.
Remember which way is up when you reinstall it, lots of folks accidentally mount it upside down.
https://www.crfsonly.com/howto/keih...-to-replacing-floating-valve-seal-crf450r.php

He mentions using the correct Phillips screwdriver- Ever wonder, while working on your bike, that your Phillips screwdriver never fits properly and winds up stripping the heads, then blaming it on "Cheap OEM" screws? Actually the screws aren't Phillips, they're JIS (Different pitch). If you don't have a set of dedicated JIS screwdrivers, now's the time..
(They make great Xmas presents)
https://www.mcmaster.com/jis-(japanese-industrial-standard)-screwdrivers

Here's a good place for carb parts without breaking the bank.
http://jetsrus.com/

And that plate on the slide with the damaged o-ring, make sure you put it in the right way. It's easy to put it in upside down and you'd be chasing conflicting jetting symptoms foooreverrrrr.

That is absolutely necessary, bIke will nor rUn wit out it. Get a steel extended screw so you can adjust it without tools.
Zipty or scotts make some.

There are a small spring, washer and o ring that go in there with the screw. Make sure the old ones aren't still in there when you install the new setup

++++ 1 Bike wont run right.

Tusk also makes a extended fuel screw for $12. Makes tuning sooo much easier. In addition to making sure the old oring isnt still in there when you intall the new one, make sure actually use all the parts on the new one. IE oring, washer, spring.

 

[Finesse77]

Thanks guys. I just order a Fuel adjustment screw from Rocky mountain. Anxiously waiting.

 

[Finesse77]

Bike is all up and running good. Just install a set of tires also and just waiting on October 1 for red season.
Just one more project. I need to replace the fork seals, it’s leaking. I just ordered a cap wrench tool and the seals. But i am trying to search on what can i use as an alternative for the fork seal driver. Any suggestions? I hear i can use a PVC pipe. I am trying to avoid spending $65 for it.
Thanks in advance

 

[OaklandF4i]

Bike is all up and running good. Just install a set of tires also and just waiting on October 1 for red season.
Just one more project. I need to replace the fork seals, it’s leaking. I just ordered a cap wrench tool and the seals. But i am trying to search on what can i use as an alternative for the fork seal driver. Any suggestions? I hear i can use a PVC pipe. I am trying to avoid spending $65 for it.
Thanks in advance

You can get away without using either a bullet or driver, but you get can both for about $40 via RockyMtnAtvMc. Motion Pro or Tusk. Split PVC pip does work, but is so much easier and better with a weighted tool. And chances are very high that if you ride consistently that you will be doing the job again.

Just a tip, get the KYB oil and dust seals. They come in the factory yamaha oem replacement kit along with the sliders. Worth the extra $20 as they generally last longer and have less stiction than many of the cheap aftermarket ones. Your forks will be happier and perform better.

 

[byke]

+1 to CJ. I've got an old homemade driver someone made from a chunk of solid round steel. I have to use a towel to keep it from scratching the forks, which I don't really like, but it's super heavy and that I do like because I don't have to hit it with a hammer, just slide it a few times and you're done. You gotta do some tapping with PCV, so be careful if you go that route.

Personally, I rarely pass up an opportunity to buy a cool tool, because they *always* come in handy down the road. Still, I've never bought the bullet tool, though I used to use them all the time at work. I just use a ziplock back with no lube(hehe). Also, I'd recommend installing the seals totally dry. Some seals come with grease on them and those have leaked within a short period 100% of the time, whereas as it's the exact opposite if I do it all dry(hehe). YMMV, but it's been very binary for me.

 

[2strokeYardSale]

You need two different tools or a two-in-one tool. The large cap tool and the smaller cartridge tool.

Oh yeah, plus the holder. I guess that's three.

Break the caps loose before loosening the triple clamps. This may not be possible due to handlebars and bar clamps.

A split PVC ghetto tool works but you'll miss having a hammer weight. You could get some metal pipe of the appropriate size. The Tusk tool is a step up but it isn't amazing.

RockyMountain sells a KYB fork rebuild kit with seals and bushings for about $50. Get that and some 5 wt oil.

I found these videos the most helpful. RM also has some vids for the KYB 48.

[youtube]vrafDhaHbKc[/youtube]
[youtube]rGjUpxEMrT0[/youtube]

 

[DONGLEE]

Bike is all up and running good. Just install a set of tires also and just waiting on October 1 for red season.
Just one more project. I need to replace the fork seals, it’s leaking. I just ordered a cap wrench tool and the seals. But i am trying to search on what can i use as an alternative for the fork seal driver. Any suggestions? I hear i can use a PVC pipe. I am trying to avoid spending $65 for it.
Thanks in advance

I have both fork tools if you need to borrow them and save the cash right now

 

[Finesse77]

I have both fork tools if you need to borrow them and save the cash right now

Thanks for the offer. I just ordered the tools online, should come in today. Typically how many quartz of fork oil needed? Would 1 liter enough for the two?
Thanks guys.

 

[2strokeYardSale]

One liter is enough for both. IIRC, 320cc per leg.

 

[Finesse77]

All systems go. Replaced both front fork seals and also went ahead to replaced front wheel bearing. It was daunting at first to replaced the fork seals. But it was a breeze after that. My tiny workshop.
Now i need to learn how to ride this compare to my 2 stroke KX125
See you guys on the hills.

 

[DONGLEE]

THROTTLE CONTROL! Ride a gear higher than normal and let torque tow you around until you get used to the beast. Especially if you’re gonna trail ride it

 

[Finesse77]

Went to Metcalf to finally test it. So far so good. No fork oil leaks, i guess i did a good job. Bike runs like a champ, with a few tweak on the carb. Rode it on the trails and had some laps on the track. Also took it to a single trail, that was very interesting. Bike is a beast.
It likes to be rip open, not so much on the low end. At least, that’s my observation.
Got there early and those BETA bikes were nice looking. I wish i had the chance to demo it.
Next weekend, off to Carnegie.
Cheers...