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2016 R1 vs ZX10R

what ive been hearing/seeing at the track:
Chassis - R1
Engine - ZX
Electronics - R1
Race Pace - ZX

the R1 seems to be the more user-friendly bike. you can hop on it and go reasonably fast right away. the ZX might be faster eventually, but finding the right setup for the tires you are running and your riding style will be more difficult. if u do get the ZX, the safe bet is to run Pirellis on the track.
 
If only there were some modifications that would make these bike easier/safer to use on the street. Oh well. :(

There is a modification... Ya learn how to ride a bike/modify yourself.

This requires a functioning brain though.

Listen and agree with Ernie :afm199... :thumbup
 
what ive been hearing/seeing at the track:
Chassis - R1
Engine - ZX
Electronics - R1
Race Pace - ZX

the R1 seems to be the more user-friendly bike. you can hop on it and go reasonably fast right away. the ZX might be faster eventually, but finding the right setup for the tires you are running and your riding style will be more difficult. if u do get the ZX, the safe bet is to run Pirellis on the track.

have you heard anything about the fancy showa front bits on the zx? people like the balance free forks?
 
I would take the R1 because of that motor.

Also, have you ridden track before?
 
FWIW I liked the R1M, the electronics were seamless, you hardly notice traction control kicking in, and the electronics smoothed out the wheelies nicely. The brakes were good, though apparently there are some problems at speed on the track with the smart brakes.

Easy to ride.

However, I like my unsophisticated GSXR 1000. It's super fun, cheap, and makes me smile.

Haven't ridden the ZX10, I have one available and the latest BMW as well. Later this year.
Don't listen to afm199 :afm199 he doesn't know what he's talking about! Just keep the bike in third and don't use your brakes for a few sessions in C

Just kidding, mostly :p

If this was a thread asking about how to get faster on track, ya go sv650.

This is a thread asking for comparisons between r1 and zx10r

No, it's a thread about bikes and track riding by someone who apparently is using looks as the metric for purchasing a track bike and has no track experience. My advice is to save some money and time and start with a beater bike. It always will be. I see 20-40 crashed $15k bikes a year as an instructor. Usually in B- or B+ group. Starting out on the track on a literbike is not necessarily the best path.
 
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have you heard anything about the fancy showa front bits on the zx? people like the balance free forks?

ive got 2 race buddies that bought the new ZX for this year.

one is racing with the forks completely stock and is getting on the expert podium already. hes complains about front-end issues all the time, yet hes fast. hes nuts and i expect he'll be 1-2s faster everywhere once he opens the forks up.

the other guy has KTech carts in it already and is struggling some w/ feeling. hes a great rider, 4 solid years of championships, but hes only really matching his 6R times on the 10R. thats still good enough to podium, but not what hes expecting. im sure he'll get faster soon. but who knows if he can beat the other guy.

so really, it all depends on the rider and who does the work. given that the new BFF fork is pressurized, its not at a huge disadvantage to the best aftermarket stuff. but ull still need to get someone to respring and revalve it for fast track use. if they dont have prev experience with that bike and those forks, u might get a springrate and damping curve that dont work as well as they could.
 
My advice is to save some money and time and start with a beater bike. It always will be. I see 20-40 crashed $15k bikes a year as an instructor.

Now, Ernie...both you and I know that in the end the OP is going to do what he's going to do, advice be damned.

However, it's folks like these that give the rest of us good options for fixer-uppers. How do you think I got the 750 so cheap? :eboy
 
No, it's a thread about bikes and track riding by someone who apparently is using looks as the metric for purchasing a track bike and has no track experience. My advice is to save some money and time and start with a beater bike. It always will be. I see 20-40 crashed $15k bikes a year as an instructor. Usually in B- or B+ group. Starting out on the track on a literbike is not necessarily the best path.

Once again, barf at its finest. Since when did I say I was using a bike's looks to measure its capabilities on the track? I don't understand why people don't understand that just because someone takes a bike to the track regularly, it doesn't mean it is strictly a track-only bike. I specifically stated I will be doing track AND street/commuting with the bike.

Now, Ernie...both you and I know that in the end the OP is going to do what he's going to do, advice be damned.

However, it's folks like these that give the rest of us good options for fixer-uppers. How do you think I got the 750 so cheap? :eboy

And again, the infamous barf 'in-crowd' strikes again, making condescending remarks toward someone who just so happens to be different than they are. I didn't ask what the ultimate track bike was or what the 'smartest' move when it comes to getting into track as a novice. What I asked was, what is better: A or B? Furthermore, I specifically stated that this would be a street and track bike about 50/50 since I don't plan on doing much riding overall as much as I do here in CA. But of course you always have to make yourself feel above others by putting them down because they didn't make the same decisions as yourself. Btw, which one of my bills did you volunteer to pay for again? Oh none? Then maybe you should consider that before telling someone how they should spend THEIR money.

If you don't like me or my post enough to add some valuable input that is RELEVANT to my actual question, then you should most likely move along.
 
Now, Ernie...both you and I know that in the end the OP is going to do what he's going to do, advice be damned.

However, it's folks like these that give the rest of us good options for fixer-uppers. How do you think I got the 750 so cheap? :eboy

Harsh, :laughing
 
Once again, barf at its finest. Since when did I say I was using a bike's looks to measure its capabilities on the track? I don't understand why people don't understand that just because someone takes a bike to the track regularly, it doesn't mean it is strictly a track-only bike. I specifically stated I will be doing track AND street/commuting with the bike.



And again, the infamous barf 'in-crowd' strikes again, making condescending remarks toward someone who just so happens to be different than they are. I didn't ask what the ultimate track bike was or what the 'smartest' move when it comes to getting into track as a novice. What I asked was, what is better: A or B? Furthermore, I specifically stated that this would be a street and track bike about 50/50 since I don't plan on doing much riding overall as much as I do here in CA. But of course you always have to make yourself feel above others by putting them down because they didn't make the same decisions as yourself. Btw, which one of my bills did you volunteer to pay for again? Oh none? Then maybe you should consider that before telling someone how they should spend THEIR money.

If you don't like me or my post enough to add some valuable input that is RELEVANT to my actual question, then you should most likely move along.

Actually both our posts contain some really good "old time BARF" advice. However, you are absolutely free to buy what you want and ride it where you please.

The beater bike for trackdays is usually given by people who ride a lot of trackdays. In my case that's several hundred in the last ten years. I've lost track of how many new liter bikes I have seen wadded. And they pretty much all followed your profile. Street and track usage, most with street tires.

Sorry to have offended you and good luck with your purchase.
 
Once again, barf at its finest. Since when did I say I was using a bike's looks to measure its capabilities on the track? I don't understand why people don't understand that just because someone takes a bike to the track regularly, it doesn't mean it is strictly a track-only bike. I specifically stated I will be doing track AND street/commuting with the bike.



And again, the infamous barf 'in-crowd' strikes again, making condescending remarks toward someone who just so happens to be different than they are. I didn't ask what the ultimate track bike was or what the 'smartest' move when it comes to getting into track as a novice. What I asked was, what is better: A or B? Furthermore, I specifically stated that this would be a street and track bike about 50/50 since I don't plan on doing much riding overall as much as I do here in CA. But of course you always have to make yourself feel above others by putting them down because they didn't make the same decisions as yourself. Btw, which one of my bills did you volunteer to pay for again? Oh none? Then maybe you should consider that before telling someone how they should spend THEIR money.

If you don't like me or my post enough to add some valuable input that is RELEVANT to my actual question, then you should most likely move along.

gif-spicy.gif


I think their intentions are good, they are providing good information about someone starting out at the track.

They know what often happens when someone starts going to the track. They get hooked. Hard. That means $$$ in tires and track fees. Then, as you get more confident and start to push the bike, the 170bhp will bite you hard. Often when you don't expect it because 'the front never slid out before and i didn't know what to do once it did' or something.

You are a level headed dude (we did pch1) and more responsible rider than I (I couldn't keep the pace down on pch1 after lunch) and I am confident you gather required information before making big decisions (like you are doing here)

The zx will be more comfy on the street for you but I highly suggest riding a bike for 100 miles that has a similar riding position to the zx and r1 to get a feel for how the riding position is different as compared to the FZ:thumbup
 
Actually both our posts contain some really good "old time BARF" advice. However, you are absolutely free to buy what you want and ride it where you please.

The beater bike for trackdays is usually given by people who ride a lot of trackdays. In my case that's several hundred in the last ten years. I've lost track of how many new liter bikes I have seen wadded. And they pretty much all followed your profile. Street and track usage, most with street tires.

Sorry to have offended you and good luck with your purchase.

Ernie, I really appreciate your advice and I may even consider getting a beater track bike, honestly. I have been drooling over a literbike lately and I really want one to ride on the street and do some track days with. I am not trying to win any medals and I'm most likely going to stick with a comfortable C group pace. I have already made up my mind between these two bikes and I am simply asking for advice/input as to which I should get for the application I want it for - which is 50/50 track/street. I've even seen some threads where they add handlebar risers to these bikes to make them more streetable which is something I am also considering. I don't have room for 3-4 different bikes, so I want 1 bike that I REALLY want. And right now, that bike is between the two bikes presented here. I hope this makes sense.
 
Ernie, I really appreciate your advice and I may even consider getting a beater track bike, honestly. I have been drooling over a literbike lately and I really want one to ride on the street and do some track days with. I am not trying to win any medals and I'm most likely going to stick with a comfortable C group pace. I have already made up my mind between these two bikes and I am simply asking for advice/input as to which I should get for the application I want it for - which is 50/50 track/street. I've even seen some threads where they add handlebar risers to these bikes to make them more streetable which is something I am also considering. I don't have room for 3-4 different bikes, so I want 1 bike that I REALLY want. And right now, that bike is between the two bikes presented here. I hope this makes sense.

R1 :)
 
Once again, barf at its finest. Since when did I say I was using a bike's looks to measure its capabilities on the track? I don't understand why people don't understand that just because someone takes a bike to the track regularly, it doesn't mean it is strictly a track-only bike. I specifically stated I will be doing track AND street/commuting with the bike.



And again, the infamous barf 'in-crowd' strikes again, making condescending remarks toward someone who just so happens to be different than they are. I didn't ask what the ultimate track bike was or what the 'smartest' move when it comes to getting into track as a novice. What I asked was, what is better: A or B? Furthermore, I specifically stated that this would be a street and track bike about 50/50 since I don't plan on doing much riding overall as much as I do here in CA. But of course you always have to make yourself feel above others by putting them down because they didn't make the same decisions as yourself. Btw, which one of my bills did you volunteer to pay for again? Oh none? Then maybe you should consider that before telling someone how they should spend THEIR money.

If you don't like me or my post enough to add some valuable input that is RELEVANT to my actual question, then you should most likely move along.

I am sorry if you took my comment as condescending but the truth is Ernie's advice is solid. It can of course be ignored but the price is likely to be high. All you have to do is look at the bikes in C, B, A as well the leathers of the riders. More time on the track comes with the risk of crashes. I honestly do not know anyone that has fair amount of track experience that has not crashed more than once.

Also, don't think that not going fast is going to avoid drama. I saw more people crash in my first C session than at anytime since Laguna last year. I remember seeing a really cherry Ducati Street Fighter flipping end over end in the grass on turn 4 of Sonoma. I guess TC has it's limits. Trust me he hasn't going that fast because I had passed on Street Triple every time I saw him prior to binning his Italian stallion.
 
All you have to do is look at the bikes in C, B, A as well the leathers of the riders. More time on the track comes with the risk of crashes. I honestly do not know anyone that has fair amount of track experience that has not crashed more than once.

You are right but here is an example of me chasing an instructor on his mint '15 r1 and his leathers / helmet looked good too.

Wonder if the bike / leathers / helmet still look so good?

dpt7LsE.jpg
 
You are right but here is an example of me chasing an instructor on his mint '15 r1 and his leathers / helmet looked good too.

Wonder if the bike / leathers / helmet still look so good?

dpt7LsE.jpg

Chris, I can't remember, did you ever track your FZ?
 
Chris, I can't remember, did you ever track your FZ?

Last year I took it bone stock to THill East and was running C+ pretty easily. I was heavier around 225 IIRC and that was the pace I felt comfortable at with the suspension making it feel like I was riding a rocking-horse:laughing

I sorted suspension and exhaust / ecu and took it to THill West track along with my sv650 that I paid $1000 for five years and 25,000 miles ago and I ended up only riding the sv650.

I would have jumped on the FZ if I crashed the SV but the riding position of the SV had me comfortably running B+

uifZA2k.jpg
 
And again, the infamous barf 'in-crowd' strikes again, making condescending remarks toward someone who just so happens to be different than they are. I didn't ask what the ultimate track bike was or what the 'smartest' move when it comes to getting into track as a novice. What I asked was, what is better: A or B? Furthermore, I specifically stated that this would be a street and track bike about 50/50 since I don't plan on doing much riding overall as much as I do here in CA. But of course you always have to make yourself feel above others by putting them down because they didn't make the same decisions as yourself. Btw, which one of my bills did you volunteer to pay for again? Oh none? Then maybe you should consider that before telling someone how they should spend THEIR money.

If you don't like me or my post enough to add some valuable input that is RELEVANT to my actual question, then you should most likely move along.

Jimmies rustled much? Sticks, stones, etc., whatever. :laughing

My reply had little to nothing to do with "liking you." Kid, frankly I could care less what you do with your funds. Spend it on a shiny new liter or a crusty old beater, it's no skin off my nose. But did it ever cross your mind that maybe, just maybe, I was in the same position once and let my heart instead of my mind when it came to my checkbook? Some posters here are speaking from experience and really don't want to see you make a poor decision. "Above others" my ass, don't act so butthurt when you don't hear what you want to.

I say good day sir! :party
 
The new R1 is pretty fun and easy to ride but they say the same about the zx10r

personally I would go sit on both and determine comfort first.

lots to like about the zx10r
 
I think most of us are getting the illusion you want one of these bikes is because you are asking us for our opinions on the aesthetics. You picked two very popular street bikes that are ridden by squids - so naturally if you ask us to choose (and just asking for opinions based on looks), you're going to get some heat.

Now if you said, the following, you might get a different result regarding the factors of getting a bike for both track and street:

* I want the option to put hardbags on for traveling.
* I like to wrench on my bike and hate dealing with fairings or needing specialty tools

* I am X tall and X heavy. (ergos)
* I'll be riding in Florida where it gets very hot, which engine displaces heat better or does it matter?

You also didn't mention why you want a literbike (why? are you getting bored of your FZ09? Give us some rational reason). You're getting free wisdom for the question you asked. I would also second the notion of getting a specific beater track bike. Just do one track day, you will see how much you wring out the motor and burn the tires.

Used SV650 & FZ07 > R1 for street and track Same price. More fun. Less insurance.




TLDR: buy an R1 :ride
 
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