We said our bittersweet goodbyes to Canon Guadalupe, vowing to be back. That place is pretty special, indeed. Termagant took the camera and I took the wheel.

The long road home was calling, to shelter and medical care and healing.
But first, the sandy road through the cholla needed my attention...it wasn't an easy drive, even on 4 wheels.
T, self-portrait with splinted ankle

I drove gently, trying not to jostle her. We gazed out into the desert with a blend of relief and melancholy.
Strange sights greeted us, like this little boat lying in the sand, miles and miles from water. Just one of those Baja things.

Goodbye for now, gorgeous harsh desert. We've learned you don't suffer fools.

We were stopped at the military checkpoint again, but this time, 2 women in a pickup didn't excite the same kind of intense search and hostile questioning as I had alone. The smiling soldier really wanted to know if we were girlfriends...and just HOW much we liked each other. But other than vaguely hoping for a softcore scene, he let us go with a wave.
Once more I drove up the snaking canyon into the mountains, west toward Rumorosa.

In the midst of the mountains, we stopped so that T could have a chance to stretch and rest and re-up her painkillers...riding in a packed truck on rough roads was not the most comfortable experience. There, we peered over the edge of the cliff, only to see...wrecked cars. Many of them, still lying in twisted rusting hulks far, far below. And scattered tires.
Look close, you can see a couple of the cars still down there.

Suddenly, I understood the meaning of the shrine with its list of names. All those who went off the edge and found their end at the bottom of the cliff.

Oh, Baja, with all its raw and mortal edges on display. I forget how hard we work to hide those things where I live.

We drove on, reaching the US border at last, pulling up to my Uncle's house after dark, to retrieve my bike before heading on into the night.
Sure enough, Aunt Ann emerged from her trailer, eyes bright, and insisted on trying a faith healing on poor Termagant while my uncle reminisced about dirtbikes, Baja, injuries, and his love of the land. Once, he said with misty eyes, you could ride from here to the ocean, all on dirt, nobody to stop you. We disentangled ourselves, loaded the last DR, and off we went.
It was a long ride home yet.
Finally at the hospital days after her injury, the nurses pronounced T's splint the best one they'd ever seen, and she was visibly pleased. The doc scrutinized Termagant's x-rays, and pronounced it a simple malleolar fracture, needing an immediate splint, followed by a cast/boot, but mercifully, no surgery. She'd broken the tip of the fibula; perhaps without those Sidi boots the injury would've been a tibia and fibular fracture (a tib/fib).
The splint

This whole experience was preventable, though it was surely good training for how to deal with motorcycle injuries while traveling, and somewhat-difficult evacuations. It's made us both consider the things we can do better next time, and change about our riding to help prevent a recurrence. My first mistake was made right out of the box—I had made reservations in advance, locking us into a first day with no flexibility. When we were delayed a bit, our cushion of time disappeared, and we were forced into a choice between losing our first day's money and safety.
We'll have SAM splints on hand next time. We'll both be getting more training, perhaps a repeat of the class we took with Rich Oliver, or Jimmy Lewis out in Pahrump, NV. And I'll hone my planning skills to try and prevent a recurrence of the rock-and-hard-place night riding dilemma in which we found ourselves. We've both learned a thing or two about stacking risk variables. We do have the smaller bikes, too, and I'll consider taking those instead for trips that include more intense off-road components.
It wasn't—quite--a survival situation. It was, however, a hell of a time. I pride myself on my self-sufficiency, and facing the truth of vulnerability and a need for help was humbling as all hell. Riders, in particular, know this...hell, anyone who pushes the edges of the body and the world knows this: Sooner or later we all have to feel our bodies break, or break down. And the more you rub up against those raw edges, hungry for beauty and experience, the harder the impact. But a little care, a little trust, and a little mutual help can blunt hardest of the impact.
She's still in her immobilization boot as we speak, using either her crutches or a wheelchair to get around. Her plan is to ride again when the pain subsides and the doc gives her the ok, and she's been doing ferocious workouts on crutches and in the chair, rolling up hills while I hum the Rocky theme to inspire her, or at least make her laugh. There's something about shared adversity that really strengthens love.