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Any Woodworkers?

Dubbington

Dubbington

Slamdunk Champion
Joined
Jul 15, 2007
Location
East Yay
Moto(s)
EX Street Triple ;(
Name
Dubs
31593-01-200.jpg


Picked this bad boy up to make some 8x10 frames for my sister and then bigger ones for myself and to test the used Ridgid table saw I just got.

Gonna be honest, I cannot figure this thing out for the life of me. Ive watched a video of a guy using a miter gauge which essentially this is but at permanent 45 degrees.

What I can't figure out is how do I measure the lengths of the all the pieces to its a 90 at each corner and they are perfectly 8x10....I have to frame 4 8"x10" canvas paintings.

A video says to rough cut the 4 sides than 45 only one side of each side. Next it to setup a stop and measure for each leg...thats where I'm lost.

Also, when using a table saw with the fence on the right. Does your fall off waste piece exit to the right or left of the blade?
 
I really want to say something about you being retarded, but I don't want to be banned...

So...measure twice, cut once.

:teeth
 
Table saw's are incredibly versatile, once you learn to use them. I'm not there yet, but for the work you want to do a miter saw would probably be best. It can be done on a table saw, but you'll probably spend more time setting up the jigs than you would cutting the wood for your picture frames...
 
are you looking to have the inside viewable part exactly 8x10? if so the easiest way would be to rough cut the pieces about 5-6 inches longer, then cut one side of the 45 on each piece. use the inside edge (the edge where the art work would be seen) of the 45 to measure from for the 8" and 10" sections and use that to cut your other 45. its usually the best when cutting the second 45 to cut it a little long(1/16"-1/8") and compare it to the other side. then you have the ability to shave a little bit if needed because its whole lot easier to shave a little bit off than it is to try to add a little bit back on.
 
Duz morn'in wood count? :dunno
 
Dubbington said:
31593-01-200.jpg


Picked this bad boy up to make some 8x10 frames for my sister and then bigger ones for myself and to test the used Ridgid table saw I just got.

Gonna be honest, I cannot figure this thing out for the life of me. Ive watched a video of a guy using a miter gauge which essentially this is but at permanent 45 degrees.

What I can't figure out is how do I measure the lengths of the all the pieces to its a 90 at each corner and they are perfectly 8x10....I have to frame 4 8"x10" canvas paintings.

A video says to rough cut the 4 sides than 45 only one side of each side. Next it to setup a stop and measure for each leg...thats where I'm lost.

Also, when using a table saw with the fence on the right. Does your fall off waste piece exit to the right or left of the blade?
Click to expand...

Yeah, I use the ol' chop saw whenever I'm doing shit like that...
 
The math is easier, when you know WHAT you're cutting, not how.

For an 8x10, you don't mark your miter cut on the inside OR outside of the trim piece. You mark the CENTER of the backside (where your cut out (or dado) is at, and the picture sits into). This is where you need your true measurement.

And in all honestly, give yourself a bit of room on it. Like 8.025 inch. Figuring out the math for the thickness of your trim, to give you the overall length of your trim piece on the inside or outside, so that you have 8" in the center. That's the pain in the ass. :toothless
 
Your new guide really comes into it own when cutting molding. A complex compound cut made easy with the guide. UNO that ceiling trim that sits at an angle from the wall. Sitting the molding like it would be on the wall on the guide and table saw. The cut made will be made for perfect 90 degree fits.

Can do similar cuts using a miter saw, using a higher backer fence. So there is a few ways to skin a cat :teeth Even using compound calculators on the web.

A dedicated jig like the one you got, helps to get perfect cuts. Hold tight on the wood and guide and cut slowly so the blade doesn't tear the wood. Try a ply wood blade to minimize chipping.
Car wax the table saw surface to reduce friction.

Mark the frame with exact cut to marks. These marks will remain on the frame and cut right up to it. It can be the longest marks of the outer frame. It can be the shortest measured marks of the inner corners of the frame. It can be the size of the picture plus a little leeway for a rabbited step the painting sits on. Use marks for compound cutting. Can use table saw fence for basic flat cuts.

Make a less accurate mark to generally show the cut angles. This mark takes the thinking out of when positioning the piece on the saw. Helps with the measure twice cut once technique.
 
I have done plenty of woodworking in my life and currently am finishing up a substantial artist's easel (I airbrush) with an inner sliding frame, full assortment of adjustments with knobs, etc.

If I can impart one thing that people screw up more than anything is KERF!! The kerf is the actual thickness that blade will cut. So get a test piece of the same wood, run it part way through the saw, get out some calipers (or tape measure if your eyes are great), and be sure to measure the actual cut kerf and figure this into your measurements. Then learning how to accurately draw and hit your measured marks is the experience factor you gain with time.

Oh and for trim molding and frame stock like you have pictured, a chop/miter saw is great and more reproducible on the cuts. An old school miter box is a cheap way to make those cuts but the accuracy and repeatability isn't awesome.
 
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byke said:
I think you should buy a miter saw.
Click to expand...

Yep. In fact, when I worked at the Woodsmith, in Berkeley, the most accurate miter saws for fine work were not power saws but manual ones in frame. Damn, I can't remember but it wasn't Sandvik but some other N. European brand or something..I'm gonna look it up and edit in if I can find it.

Chip out is always an issue cutting frame stock. You can tape 'em up etc but power saws are just too brutal; but if you have a specialty blade that's freshly sharpened you'll do okay. Table saws are my last choice for cuttin' miters.

However you measure, consistency is most important. Make your pencil mark and zealously copy however you cut relative to marking line. Many use a little x to show waste side. With a truly fine kerfed saw, you can literally cut the line, but I usually cut exact waste side of line. But you have to keep yer pencil sharp and draw at same angle every time. Some woodworkers use a marking knife instead of pencil.

It's been years so excuse me if I forgot something.

PS. I found it. It's as expensive as a chop saw, but we sold a ton of 'em back in the day:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5364

Unlike mitre boxes which use a gents saw, the Nobex has a very fine kerf, like a Japanese saw...
 
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I'm gonna chime in. Unless you are going to drop a shit ton of money on specific miter box and said saw's to go with it. FUCK THAT NOISE.

Chop Saws, Miter box and saws - specific to trim work for frames and detail work. Are DAMN expensive.

Also, Fraz has a HUGE tip. KERF, Is insanely important.
 
I'm trying to get a miter saw my dad doesnt use. In the meantime its the table saw.

I'd like to get this miter gauge by Osborne. Adjustable with a longer fence and extension with a stop to do repeat cuts.

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http://www.osbornemfg.com/video.htm

I'm just about to build a table saw sled like the pic below. Makes it easy for cross cuts and squaring off boards. I already made a zero clearance insert.

post-xcutsled.jpg
 
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