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Anyone into Astrophotography?

Squidly McSmearstain

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 26, 2006
Location
San Ramon
Moto(s)
2024 Triumple Speed Triple RS, KTM RC390
I crashed at the track several years ago and had to take a hiatus from motorcycles. I ended up going down the path of learning deep sky astrophotography and have REALLY enjoyed it. It's amazing what you can capture with amateur equipment. Anyone else go down this rabbit hole?

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Wow!

What kind of equipment are you using?

I've always heard that in astrophotography, a lot of the colors are "made up", does that happen here? Or is that nebula "really" green?
 
Wow!

What kind of equipment are you using?

I've always heard that in astrophotography, a lot of the colors are "made up", does that happen here? Or is that nebula "really" green?
In some cases the colors aren't really made up as much as "inspired by real events". Sort of. This is simplified enough so that my brain can understand it.....

A few things to note. There's a lot of gas and dust out there. Some of that gas gets enough energy from a nearby star to emit its own light. Imagine a neon light. Neon is a gas and when you run electricity through the gas it throws off photons. Hence, neon lights. The same idea happens out in space.

Okay, different gasses emit different wavelengths of light. Based on this fact, if you were to put a filter in front of a camera and it only allowed a very narrowband of light to pass through to the camera you would be able to test for the presence of certain gasses. If you had a filter that only allowed light at the frequency of 672nm then any light you get is produced by Sulphur. If you get light at 656nm you get Hydrogen and light at 500nm is Oxygen.

When the hubble telescope was launched it was fitted with a monochrome camera. It only takes photos in black and white. Different filters are placed in front of the camera so that the team could search for various gasses based on the emission of the light the camera captured.

As you probably know most of the color we see on TV and on computers and in photographs etc. is actually various combinations of Red, Green and Blue. Rather than looking at three different photos of the same object, the Hubble team combined three black and white images into a single photo and they mapped these frequencies to Red, Green and Blue. The convention the Hubble team used is that Sulphur would be mapped to Red, Hydrogen would be mapped to Green and Oxygen would be mapped to Blue. Then, you could look at one color image and determine a lot about its makeup based on the colors. This is called SHO imaging. A lot of the really beautiful Hubble telescope images you see are photos taken with narrowband filters. Sulphur got mapped to red because its frequency is closest to red in the color frequencies we see. Hydrogen is mapped to green (mostly because red was already taken by Sulphur) and Oxygen was mapped to blue becuase its frequency is close to blue. You'll notice that sulphur and hydrogen are pretty close together so they're both kind of shades of red, but to get a pretty photo you need someone to be green and hydrogen was chosen. I'll play with SHO as well as HSO and HOO color combinations.

The above description works well for targets that emit their own light like emission nebulae. But, LOTS of targets don't emit their own light; they reflect white light. For these reflection targets it's better to NOT use narrowband filters, but simply capture as much visible light as possible. For these types of targets you can use a "regular" color camera.

The first, second and fourth images I posted are emission nebulae. I photographed these with narrowband filters and played with the processing of the colors until I was happy. The general consensus in AP is that narrowband images are kind of "fair game" for artistic interpretation. My primary goal is to make pretty pictures rather than determine the composition of nebulae, so I make choices based on my opinion of beauty.

The third and fifth images I posed are reflection nebulae. These were taken with "regular" broadband light collection that is exactly like you would get from a color camera. Again, I make processing choices to enhance the beauty of what is captured rather than trying to create a scientifically derived photo.

Finally, a lot of people ask the question, "If I took a space ship to this location, is that what I would see if I looked out the window?" No. This is because our eyes capture light that our brain can interpret very differently tan a camera captures light and creates an image that our brain can interpret.
 
Oh, to answer the question about the green in the second pic... The green means there's lots of hydrogen there. I certainly saturated it in the photo because it looked cool. The blue means there's oxygen. The oranges are a combinations of sulphur and hydrogen and even some oxygen. Again, I chose to saturate these colors to make a pretty picture, but the gasses are present because they're emitting light that I identified using narrowband filters. This is why I say narrowband image colors are "inspired by true events".

As for equipment, I'm happy to go over it in more detail if folks want it. The short description os that to do deep sky AP you need a mount, telescope and a camera. The most important piece of gear BY FAR is the mount. The camera and the telescope are equally important and should be "matched" based on what target you're shooting. The photos above were mostly taken with an iOptron CEM70 mount, a Takahashi E130D telescope (430mm of focal length) and a ZWO ASI6200MM astronomy camera. The camera body is designed for astrophotography, but the camera sensor is the same sensor in a lot of DSLR cameras. It's full frame.
 
Thanks for the explanation!

I think I saw a video about getting into AP. It's "involved" to say the least.

On the other side of the coin, they now have these "smart scopes" that do all of the tracking and imaging and stacking and what not. You tell it to go to Orion, and 20m later (or whatever) you have a picture of Orion on your cell phone.

And I look at that, and think "Gee that'd be neat to see -- once." But those "one click wonders" I think take what's really interesting about the hobby out of it. Just reminds me of Chevy Chase at the Grand Canyon in Vacation. I have this feeling that with AP, "the journey is the reward", otherwise, I guess, it's just another snapshot.

Your photos are gorgeous, and I know they're a lot of work.

My current interest in AP is just trying to get those cool Milky Way shots that people get. I don't know if we can get those on an iPhone or not, or if I need to pop for a DSLR.
 
I'm into looking at photos taken by astrophotographers!
 
Thanks for the explanation!

I think I saw a video about getting into AP. It's "involved" to say the least.

On the other side of the coin, they now have these "smart scopes" that do all of the tracking and imaging and stacking and what not. You tell it to go to Orion, and 20m later (or whatever) you have a picture of Orion on your cell phone.

And I look at that, and think "Gee that'd be neat to see -- once." But those "one click wonders" I think take what's really interesting about the hobby out of it. Just reminds me of Chevy Chase at the Grand Canyon in Vacation. I have this feeling that with AP, "the journey is the reward", otherwise, I guess, it's just another snapshot.

Your photos are gorgeous, and I know they're a lot of work.

My current interest in AP is just trying to get those cool Milky Way shots that people get. I don't know if we can get those on an iPhone or not, or if I need to pop for a DSLR.
Really cool Milky Way shots can be taken with a smartphone, but you will get better results with a dedicated camera; either an SLR or a new mirrorless one. You can pick up SLRs pretty cheap on CL. You'll also need a tripod.

The next step up for Milky Way shots would be a camera tracker. These aren't terribly expensive and will really improve the quality of your result. Honestly, I don't take too many shots like this, so my knowledge is pretty general.

The all-in-one AP scopes (like the Seestar) are convenient and cool and easy to use and can capture lots of great objects. But they're not terribly advanced (yet) and the equipment is still pretty rudimentary. Yes, you can get amazing shots of the Orion nebula. The second image I posted is an aggressive crop of the Elephant Trunk nebula. You could also get this target with a Seestar and some inexpensive narrowband filters. Something like a Seestar might be just the ticket to whet your appetite, but they are also limited in a lot of ways.

However, the third and fifth images I posted are something that these all-in-one solutions simply could not capture. I'm sure the technology will advance so that they can, but for now images like those two still require some commitment and knowledge. Plus, I just like being out at night under the stars. Also, collecting the data is ~50% of the equation. Processing the data to produce a final image is also a pretty steep learning curve and the other ~50% of the hobby.
 
Another classic target is the Cygnus loop. Here's the whole loop in a single frame. This is a supernova remnant and it emits its own light so it's capture with narrowband filters. The advantage of this is that you can capture data from narrowband targets in really light polluted areas.

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While seeing the whole loop in a single photo is really cool, it's amazing to crop into certain areas and see the details that can be captured from light polluted areas and "prosumer" equipment.


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This next one is one of my most challenging captures yet. You won't see too many photos of these objects because it's a major PITA to collect good data and then processing is also very challenging. I worked on getting these framed together. This is a planetary nebulae and a supernova remnant in the same frame. The planetary nebula on the right is SH2-216. I've never seen anyone other photo with these color choices, so this photo is pretty unique.

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Shucks. I was hoping to get some help in taking a picture of our latest purchase. Trying to get a night shot of our toilet seat which is adorned with an LED light.

So, not the asstophotography I was hoping to see.

Posted pics are cool. ;)
 
When proof of off world life is presented, the presentation will be by a back yard guy just dickin' around having a good time in the dark.

I love motorcycle internet sites. Never know what's under the wrapper.
 
Another target that everyone goes after as they're learning is M51. While it is a common target and there are TONS of photos, it's still really fun to capture this yourself.
I have this old school movie trope visualization of you sitting in front of your computer, and the blinking square going back and forth, top to bottom, several times as the photo gets more and more realized. Watching it come out before you eyes and going "Wow! I caught THAT!?"

Like being in a darkroom and watching the image materialize in the developer.

So I assume you take several photos, while switching out filters to gather your data? Just several long exposures, or are you also stacking?
 
Man, those are some stunning images. I am probably going to buy a Nikon CoolPix P950 in the very near future. If I can find a dark enough area (um, yeah, right), is that platform capable of taking any decent photos? I know they would not approach yours by a long shot. I would probably settle for some neat moon shots. Note, this would be intended to be used for photos of birds and far-away objects of varying nature within our atmosphere. Dammit, why can't I thread this needle?
 
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I have this old school movie trope visualization of you sitting in front of your computer, and the blinking square going back and forth, top to bottom, several times as the photo gets more and more realized. Watching it come out before you eyes and going "Wow! I caught THAT!?"

Like being in a darkroom and watching the image materialize in the developer.

So I assume you take several photos, while switching out filters to gather your data? Just several long exposures, or are you also stacking?
It's not entirely like that, but there are some similarities. Yes, you take several photos per filter and then you stack them together. The stacking is doine using software. Depending on how many subs (sub-exposures) you take you may have hundreds of photos to stack together. I generally like to get 12-16 hours of exposure for a target. My subs can be as short as 30 seconds or as long as 5 minutes. Sub exposure length depends on the target and on the light pollution where you're shooting.

When stacking these subs together sometimes it takes several hours before the the stacked image is available. It's pretty cool sitting there and waiting for the stacked image to finally emerge. Of course, the final stacked image is usually 99% black. Then, you have to stretch the image to actually see the detail you captured.
 
How easy is it to replace zippers in shorts? Mine just ripped open from over stimulation! Man, those are some stunning images. I am probably going to buy a Nikon CoolPix P950 in the very near future. If I can find a dark enough area (um, yeah, right), is that platform capable of taking any decent photos? I know they would not approach yours by a long shot. I would probably settle for some neat moon shots. Note, this would be intended to be used for photos of birds and far-away objects of varying nature within our atmosphere. Dammit, why can't I thread this needle?
You can take astro photos with pretty much any camera. However, this hobby gets really technical really quickly, and gear really does often dictate your outcome.

That camera is likely fine for wide angle Milky Way shots. If you get a camera tracker you could likely take absolutely gorgeous shots of the Milky Way. I know you can get great Milky Way shots from Del Valle which isn't too far away. You can probably find a way to get decent moon shots with that camera. However, for deep sky objects like I'm posting it's not the right tool. Also, the camera isn't the most important piece of gear; neither is the telescope.

For deep sky objects the most important piece of equipment is the mount. The mount is what enables you to take long exposure photos of the object while keeping the object centered and keeping the stars from becoming long streaks in the photo. Mounts used to be VERY, VERY expensive. There are now lots of Chinese made mounts that perform well. This has driven prices down and now mounts are simply really expensive. Quality European and American made mounts are still the price of a decent used car which is a lot of darn money to pay so I can take some pictures. This is why I don't have a quality European or American made mount.
 
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