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aprilia v4 aprc electronics vs kawasaki gen 4 zx10r traction control

If calibration showed - on traction control level, you succeeded. The rust on the front sensor is not an issue. Even on 8, accelerating in strait line won't engage TC unless rear wheel spins. Dash light will flash when TC activates. You just have not spun rear tire yet.

Get that bike over to me so we can dial in suspension and ride in a fashion that will get that light flashing.šŸ

:thumbup my suspension needs some massaging from the tuono god
 
This is one of the most ridiculous posts I've ever seen on BARF. Is this real?

According to nearly every major motorcycle magazine, US and European, the Aprilia APRC is considered the best overall electronics package, with the new R1 being the only other serious contender. I guess your personal testing methodology and riding experience is superior to the writers in every major publication. :thumbup

your post conflicts what other people with real world experiences have already posted in this thread about Kawi vs APRC

the APRC is better? dunno bout that, but id rather have the Kawi system on my APE right now

dont believe every article you read, maybe sometimes you should go try them for yourself first before passing judgement?

if i was so full of shit, why are others saying the same thing as me?
 
interesting some think the APRC is the better system, yet prefer the Kawi system over APRC,

Maybe I was a bit misunderstood; I don't prefer the Ktrc over the Aprc, I just prefer the Kawi as an entire bike compared to the v4. If I could install the aprc package onto the zx10 then it would be the ultimate motor cycle. Just my .02
 
so, got a 2nd bike with t/c

after reading the 3 inch thick manual on the aprilia and still cant figure out how to correctly navigate to the screen i want with the correct button presses.

i get t/c to work, for some reason the 1st two rides the TC was just simply not engaging, finally calibrated it?? and off i go.

set it to setting 8/8 the highest setting, i dunno wtf, but i barely got it to engage, and when it did it was so abrupt it lurched the bike, and then i couldnt really get it to reactivate the rest of the ride,

it seems weird, as if the tires im running are like slicks or something, so it wont activate tc :wow

i dunno, im coming from a zx10r with kawi 3 stage t/c and it works effortlessly and flawlessly, you know your t/c is engaging but its NOT making abrupt changes that makes the bike surge all weird like.

the apes front traction control plate on the front wheel has some rust in between the cutouts, i dont understand why it was made out of a material that could rust......

anybody else have real world feedback from the aprilia aprc system vs kawi tc?

my calibration feature was really weird as well, it didnt read "calibrated" or if it did - it did it so fast i missed it, eventually after i ran "calibration" all i saw was my TC # changed to - (negative)

i tried to recalibrate a few more times, but it just wouldnt let me, so i shut it down for 30 secs and TC turned on again after i started it,

So i guess i have another question, if you miss the "calibrated" readout after calibrating, does the TC go to - until you turn off bike for 30secs?

Or my calibration was not successful at all? I did try it in commute traffic lol

lol.gif

Welcome to the new age of electronic riddled motorcycles.
Just you wait until you get over-the-air updates that brick it :party

Spiiiiihhhhceee :cool
 
This is one of the most ridiculous posts I've ever seen on BARF. Is this real?

According to nearly every major motorcycle magazine, US and European, the Aprilia APRC is considered the best overall electronics package, with the new R1 being the only other serious contender. I guess your personal testing methodology and riding experience is superior to the writers in every major publication. :thumbup

your post conflicts what other people with real world experiences have already posted in this thread about Kawi vs APRC

the APRC is better? dunno bout that, but id rather have the Kawi system on my APE right now

dont believe every article you read, maybe sometimes you should go try them for yourself first before passing judgement?

if i was so full of shit, why are others saying the same thing as me?


The plural of anecdote is not data.
 
fukkit, i enjoyed the bike more the 1st 2 rides, trying 2 activate TC when it was not even working properly

not sure how a 8/8 highest stage traction control will let me almost go WOT in 1st gear without any intervention with 180hp..... wtf

Wait a minute, I have been out of the game for a little while. Do I understand this correctly? Bikes are now so powerful that riders get mad when the on board electronics let them use all of it? Am I reading that right?
 
If u have a race ecu u it may have the TC disengaged. Otherwise Try going into the menu settings. Calibration . Go 23-24 mph in first until is calibrates and ur good to go. This calibrates the TC
 
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If u snap it abruptly it will probably engage but if u roll on wot slowly and ur tires are grippy and don't slip it won't engage. Only when the tire slips does the TC engage. It is not a limiter for throttle in any way. There is a speed sensors on the front and back and when it senses the rear rotate more than the front that's when it activates TC. If u want throttle limit I would change the map to S or R and it will give u that limit on the throttle in terms of power delivery.. Remember T is for Track and R is for Road. It limits 1/2 gear in the Sport mode, all in Road, full in Track
 
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Can someone please explain why TC needs calibration? I have no such function on my bike.

Also, as a side question, I put TC to 8/8 on my Diavel yesterday and went for some laps on La Honda road. TC would engage (TC blinking light) on practically every tight turn. Why is this happening and is it even safe to keep TC on such a setting?
 
Because tires can differ in size. It also needs to be done if you change sprockets.
 
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Can someone please explain why TC needs calibration? I have no such function on my bike.

Also, as a side question, I put TC to 8/8 on my Diavel yesterday and went for some laps on La Honda road. TC would engage (TC blinking light) on practically every tight turn. Why is this happening and is it even safe to keep TC on such a setting?

It works the same way on my Streetfighter. Yes, you can keep it that way, but the hooning is sacrificed. :cool
 
And what's the Wheelie Control set at?

I run a race ecu, set at 3 TC, 1 AWC. The bike never does anything violent. It will carry the wheel and set it down seamlessly. Funky behavior like the setting going to - can indicate sensor issues
 
you fellars and all your lectronics, hell shift her down and let that sum bitch wiggle, do a pop o wheelie and a burnt out, give me 300 hp and 3 gears then we will talk son. hell purdy soon its gonna be a riderless bike with all that horse shit. Hell where is the "taint" massage control..tea cozy, foot warmer!
 
Can someone please explain why TC needs calibration? I have no such function on my bike.

Also, as a side question, I put TC to 8/8 on my Diavel yesterday and went for some laps on La Honda road. TC would engage (TC blinking light) on practically every tight turn. Why is this happening and is it even safe to keep TC on such a setting?
If front and rear profiles are at all different (and they always are), if you're leaned over even a little bit the ratio of front rotations to rear rotations will change. I could see that make a poorly designed system think you've lost traction. I'm curious as to how they get around that, seeing as people are likely to install different spec tires later.
 
If front and rear profiles are at all different (and they always are), if you're leaned over even a little bit the ratio of front rotations to rear rotations will change. I could see that make a poorly designed system think you've lost traction. I'm curious as to how they get around that, seeing as people are likely to install different spec tires later.
Depends on if it uses lean angle or not for determining TC. I hope someone does know how it is on that bike. Regardless, if it's set to the highest control, it would be like telling the bike you are on ice or in pouring rain. It's going to do something at the slightest change, I would imagine, like: limit hp when you lean because it thinks you will have no traction on acceleration. Don't tell it you are on ice, and I bet it doesn't go off. :p
 
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