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Bike stalls out when put into first

E

Epeavey91

New member
Joined
Jul 6, 2018
Location
Sunny San Jose
Moto(s)
1990 Suzuki GSX600F
Basics.
1990 suzuki gsx600f

What ive done.
I mounted the bike tuesday morning, warmed it up, pulled the clutch in and noticed it creep forward while the clutch was all the way in, and stall out.

Today ive adjusted the clutch, cable, lever etc per manual, mounted the bike, pulled the clutch in and kicked into 1st immediately stalled out. Tiny lutch forward. Started it in nuetral, kicked into 2nd and stalled out immediately with a tiny lurch forward.

The kickstand was up all the way, the kill switch was engaged.


Any ideas? I havent been able to get on and ride because of this and its really upsetting.
 
Have you checked to make sure the kickstand switch is functioning? Take an ohmmeter across it and make it is registering opened and closed when you cycle it
 
I dont think i have an ohm meter. But maybe my brother in law does. That would be kind of odd though considering my cousin just rode it down here monday from half moon bay with no issues. Is there a way to bypass the killswitch alltogether.
 
Epeavey91 said:
I dont think i have an ohm meter. But maybe my brother in law does. That would be kind of odd though considering my cousin just rode it down here monday from half moon bay with no issues. Is there a way to bypass the killswitch alltogether.
Click to expand...

Unplug it at the plug about 12" up the wiring from the sidestand switch. Then short the two wires together.
 
Sticky clutches are very common. Have you tried revving it a little first? Another 1000rpm might keep it from stalling.

Also: the first time is usually the most stick. I'd expect the same thing to happen going into 1st vs 2nd, but it may have been ok going into 2nd because it wasn't as sticky anymore.
 
Has the bike sat for a while?

Did you double and triple check your work?

How was the clutch acting when you last rode it? And when was that?

It may be your clutch is shot and not able to decouple the engine from the trans.
 
The clutch plates could just be sticking together.
Sometimes caused by the use of "car oil" but I don't want to get into that.

To check, KEY OFF, sit on the bike, put in 2nd gear, you may have to rock the bike back and forth a bit.
A) So second gear.
B)Pull the clutch in . Rock the bike back and forth a good 4" front and back .
C)If the bike rolls freely, roll forward say a foot. (clutch in)
THEN put the bike on neutral .
Clutch out, key on start the bike and put bike in gear as normal. Tell us what happened.

If at the B step, the bike won't roll like it's in gear with clutch out, then clutch plates are stuck together.
To unstick, continue to rock back and forth with CLUTCH IN, but with more force, back and forth 4-6" . The clutch should free up in a few minutes if you are sharply rocking back and forth. When it does, go to C.

Possible fix is change oil and filter to proper weight and proper motorcycle oil. And try it. You may have to repeat the ABC for a few days.

You may also have a clutch cable that is fraying inside the housing and in a sense, "getting longer" as the strands break. Look at the cable adjuster at the handlebar but it could be fraying down low.

Another suggesting is getting a second set of eyes on your clutch adjustment procedure. When adjusting at the engine, the cable must be unhooked from the lever and pointing up or laying loose. Put back in the clutch perch after lower adjustment.
 
Has the clutch been sticking for a while and progressively getting worse? It could be a worn/notched clutch basket. Motocross bikes are notorious for this, for example both of my CR500's would always drag the clutch due to the notched baskets.

For oils that my suzukis have liked, Rotella T6, Suzuki ecstar, and 15W40 Delo 400 have all worked very well. Redline also worked, but didn't shift as smoothly as the aforementioned oils at operating temp. When cold, the T6 seems to work the best, I spent many miles commuting my Bandit 1200's below 45*.
 
augustiron said:
It may be your clutch is shot and not able to decouple the engine from the trans.
Click to expand...
Usually when a clutch is worn out it slips, it doesn't grab more.

I would suggest following the directions that Tri750 listed.

If a clutch is releasing properly, you should be able to put it in first gear with the engine off, pull the clutch lever in, and push the bike around. If it's grabbing it will be hard to push, but you'll be able to do it. If it is completely releasing, it should feel about like pushing the bike in neutral. The Ducati dry clutches were that way and the big KTMs seem to be that way too. Nothing else I've ever owned was completely drag-free.

You can also start the bike push it a bit so that it's moving, then hop on and shift into first. Even a grabby clutch should allow that.

Also, what happens if you try to start it while in gear with the sidestand up and the clutch pulled in?
 
Have checked the sidestand switch by shorting the wires together as mentioned in in another post? Sure sounds like your problem.
 
sometimes that connector is packed with dirt and grease. check, clean and try again.
 
The side stand switch on my Triumph would vibrate loose and fail as the throttle was advanced past idle while on the side stand, engine dies.
Just wouldn't take the gas, if you picked it up off the stand it would run fine.
I believe there is a similar safety switch @ the clutch lever, much like the front brake lite switch, that could be an issue.
 
CDONA said:
I believe there is a similar safety switch @ the clutch lever, much like the front brake lite switch, that could be an issue.
Click to expand...
Correct. Many bikes have a clutch switch as well as a sidestand switch. Either one could cause this...

Also, upping the idle rpm's a little might help. I'd put it at least 1100rpms.
 
I have done the aformentioned things. The clutch plates arent stuck. The bike rocks back and forth freely when in gear and clutched in. I just did the oil change and only used moto oil and a k.n filter.

Ive completely loosened the clutch perch locking nuts, adjusted the casing adjusment to 2/3 inti the casing. Backed the adjustment screw all the way out, then in untill i felt a slight bit of pressure and back it out 1/8 then adjusted the clutch perch locking nuts. Statted it warmed it up and it went into gear no problem. Felt it creep forward for a second but was stable and not creeping forward and stalling out. So i went back down and backed the adjustment screw out a tiny bit more to resolve the tiny lurch and went back to square one.

Ill try again this weekend. If i am not able to get it adjusted im just going to either A. Give it back to my cousin, who should have had it ready to ride from the get go. Or B. Buy a new clutch kit and install it myself.
 
If the clutch is free, sure sounds like a safety switch (kickstand or clutch lever).
 
After a few days of letting myself cool off (im not a mechanic but i take pride in doing everything myself because i know in the end it is done the correct way rather than spending hundreds on labor for a job that takes not alot of work)

I went back to square one. Warmed the bike up with the choke idle hovering around 1.5k, turned it off and screwed the case adjustment in and loosened handle adjustment. Loosened the lock nut on the clutch adjustment and completely backed the screw out till it was loose. Then screwed it back in untill there was pressure and then turned it a 1/8 further. Locked the lock not and tightened rhe handle adjustment. Worked the lever a few times and turned it on and warmed it up a few minutes.

Went into gear no problem, didnt creep forward, or stall out. Guess i just needed a cool head.
 
Most lifters I've adjusted have you screw in until resistance is met, then back OUT the screw 1/8 turn, then lock it.
Odd. But hey if it's working good or that's what the manual says, :thumbup
 
If you're not stalling any more here's how to check your clutch for drag so your gears will shift super smooth...

1 Place your bike on the center stand...

2 Start engine and establish a steady idle...

3 Squeeze in the clutch and hold... shift into first gear...

4 Now look at the rear wheel... if it's spinning step on the rear brake...
does this action drag down the engine rpms???

If you bike is equipped with an cable then adjust the clutch lever
knob clock wise (out) 1/4 turn and check again check for clutch
drag... if you bike is equipped with hydraulics bleed system and check
for bubbles...

Ultimately you want the rear wheel to stop when the engine is idling
and first gear selected with the clutch lever is squeezed in...
 
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