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Build Thread: CB350 Cafe

red # 900ss said:
I want one to. :(
Click to expand...

So buy one!

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/scz/mcy/1590896904.html

1972 honda cb350 cafe - $600 (watsonville)

Date: 2010-02-07, 9:26PM PST
Reply to: sale-vvwq7-1590896904@craigslist.org

I have a 1972 honda cb350 for sale, I bought it with the intentions of building a cafe racer out of it, but lost my job and need a car instead of a bike. The bike is pretty complete with only a few things missing, it's only missing the side filter cover's (which are easy to get on e-bay), the front fender(which you can get on e-bay also), and a few other things that you can get also on e-bay. I have already had the seat re-done and altered a bit, I also bought new spark plugs, battery, ignition switch with key, brand new clubman bars, and ignition points, I also have brand new chrome brackets for the headlight, the tire's look practicly new. It's really a good bike for someone to finish, you dont need much to get this thing ready to ride to Laguna Seca this year. I'm asking $600obo. Thanks.

3me3o13l55O65R15Sca27fb2ba03fa0b61cca.jpg
 
Junkie,

right you are - I was mentally cross-threaded - thx
 
Seat Arrived Today

The tail section arrived from Glass From the Past...well worth the wait. For $200, it's pretty nice. Custom-made for my bike, very professional-looking upholstery (that easily comes off with snaps), strong and stiff, and very light: 2 pounds 10 oz. Well worth the wait.

DSCN0804.JPG
 
LtDan said:
The charging system on al of the CB and CL Honda's were very crude by todays standards. The alternator or AC generator used two coils for daytime use and when the lights were turned on the other four coils were connected. The voltage regulator was there to prevent overcharging the battery. The system really had no regulation at all it simply went balls-tothe-wall all the time. It worked stock OK.
Click to expand...

Hmmm.
Today I tore out the starter relay and wiring as well as the turn signal relay. The rectifier and regulator are easily tucked up under the seat. I'm running a Speedcell battery that can take charge much faster than a regular motocycle battery, I actually use a car battery charger 8 amp to charge it. Speedcells accept charges from 5 amp to 80 amp easily. I wonder if the Speedcell could take the unregulated charge?


Gabe said:
Do I have a choice? Ha!

Hell, the more the merrier.

So I haven't been totally dormant. Here are the latest developments:

Buff Harsh with Todd Henning Racing wants to help out, details TBD, but will probably involve their big-bore kit...is it a 378? Something like that.
Click to expand...

Of course you have a choice Gabe! I'll happily stop sloggin my non-wares in your thread if you like!

Good to see that welding sealing up. I'm rarely in the habit of doing full teardowns on my bikes, I get irritable when I can't ride them! We have some welding plans for the T500, but the 350 will probably run as a flexi-flyer for a while. I'll be looking forward to a bike demo swap when you are done.

Perhaps when I weld mine up I should be ever more serious:
Frame-brace-left.jpg


Keep us posted about the hennings kit. I was given 30% of a Powroll kit for the 350, and figured I could get the remaining parts from Powroll, but they stopped making the kit! Remember these 350 are only 325s, so a 378 kit would be huge!
 
twitchmonitor said:
That is a great looking seat, Gabe. Is the black a primer? Color coat? Did you specify a color?
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I think it's just the fiberglass, unpainted. I don't think he does paint. Paint will be phase two in 2011.

Go here http://caferacingparts.com/ and scroll through "Race Seats." You'll see a CL160 seat.
 
Highlights from a FAQ I recently reread:
http://eurospares.com/engine.htm

If you are just starting, no major mods are required. You must absolutely replace your cam chain with a Tsubaki cam chain (same as CB750) and the tensioner should be replaced. You can use stock tensioners, but must replace them at least once a season. I recommend the KA Performance slipper cam chain tensioner, which I use in my bike. It has no moving parts to fail and is good to the chains. For fullbore racing: Todd Henning pistons are best. Makes the bike a 362cc with 12:1 compression. Either the megacycle 12340 cam, or if you want larger valves, the “X5” cam from Megacycle. I use stock valves and sizes, with Bronze valve guides from Precision Machine/Black Diamond. No valve stems seals. If you do not replace the guides, the valves will weld themselves to the guides above 11,000 rpm. I use R/D valve springs and titanium caps. Replace the springs at least once per season. Carry a spare set, just in case. I use Bore Tech carbide coating in all my cylinders. Better heat transfer and longer life. 32mm Mikunis are good. An SL350 throttle cable with some outer housing removed will make a good cable that uses the stock throttle. I use CB360 intake manifolds. Tranny is stock except for Todd Henning close ratio fifth gear. Barnett clutch plates and springs. Amsoil 2000 full synthetic or similar only.
...
50 mills are strong for their size. A pipe and carbs is the first and easiest mods because the motor stays in the frame! Porting of the cylinder head is another good idea, and it is worth the money to let someone do it who knows what removing metal from a port really means. There are many stock parts in the motor that are fine, and some people will say the tesioner rubber wheel is one of them... don't believe them. Chris Marshall has a slipper style now and I have had good luck with Stanley Liperts extinct metal rollers. Obviously, the next step is big bore pistons, R/D springs and Megacycle cam. Todd Hennings pistons work very well and You are wasting your time trying to find maximum power from something else. Todd has really developed the Hondas and has designed pistons specifically for these bikes- use them.
 
I just remembered something about a 350 Honda. Observe very carefully the bolts that hold the cam sprocket to the cam. They are different from each other, one has a shoulder and one is threaded to the head. Get them backwards and you can break the ears off the cam. I still have a 350 Honda cam sprocket T Handle wrench that was a factory tool. It had a 10 mm socket that swiveled so one could remove the cam bolts at the odd angle because the cam set low in the head.
 
Dan

helpful hints like that ^^^^ gem have elected you, Sir, as Da Man !
 
LtDan said:
I just remembered something about a 350 Honda. Observe very carefully the bolts that hold the cam sprocket to the cam. They are different from each other, one has a shoulder and one is threaded to the head. Get them backwards and you can break the ears off the cam. I still have a 350 Honda cam sprocket T Handle wrench that was a factory tool. It had a 10 mm socket that swiveled so one could remove the cam bolts at the odd angle because the cam set low in the head.
Click to expand...

This is why I believe in division of labor.
 
LtDan said:
I just remembered something about a 350 Honda. Observe very carefully the bolts that hold the cam sprocket to the cam. They are different from each other, one has a shoulder and one is threaded to the head. Get them backwards and you can break the ears off the cam. I still have a 350 Honda cam sprocket T Handle wrench that was a factory tool. It had a 10 mm socket that swiveled so one could remove the cam bolts at the odd angle because the cam set low in the head.
Click to expand...

Do you know the part number for that tool?
 
Just when I thought I was SOL finding a supplier for rearsets, I stumble on this:

http://www.motobits.com/vintage.html#CB350

CB350Lt.jpg


More updates: I've decided to do some mild porting on the head, 1mm o/s pistons, a mild cam from Megacycle, and everything else will be pretty much stock...maybe the camchain tensioner from Todd Henning Racing if Buff ever answers my emails! Once the motor is buttoned up, Charlie will start putting the rest of the bike together.
 
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I've got authentic original Dunstall Rearsets on my CL350, but now you've found those lovely pegs, I'm considering chucking them in the bin and ordering those!

My Dunstalls don't work with the kickstarted, and since I've binned my electric start, I think I should trade up!
 
Hey killfile, would you mind posting up a picture of the frame/ rear sets? I am interested to see the difference between the CB/CL350 Twin and the CB350 Four frames....
 
I've posted this picture before which I don't think will help much. I'll try to take a few more pictures tonight and post them in the morning for you. Unfortunately, we used to have both the 350 Twin and 350-F in our garage, but sold the four a few years back, otherwise I could do a detailed comparison for you!
 
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