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Chain Tools That DONT Suck

Nemo Brinker said:
I'll totally try the auntiebling method next time I replace a chain, thanks!
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i stole it from rob at evolution suspension... he also suggested using vise grips or similar large pliers (i used channel locks) to get the plate started... just baaaaaarely started so you don't need to hold the plate/tool/orings all at once getting it all lined up jusssssssst right. i found it works magically
 
DID FTW... I have the motion pro and I replace a push pin every 5 chains... I have never broken the DID one.... maybe I am dumb and the I dont understand the MP :dunno
 
Yakoo11 said:
DID FTW... I have the motion pro and I replace a push pin every 5 chains... I have never broken the DID one.... maybe I am dumb and the I dont understand the MP :dunno
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+1 on this. Ive used the motion pro/trackside one, i wasnt impressed. Ive also seen the rk one in use, wasnt too impressed either. I have a fake copy of the DID chain breaker and I think it is awesome. IMO, its nicer to use because it feels sturdier. 30 dollars well spent, im sure the real DID chain breaker is even better.
 
i've had the regular one from motion-pro, the one that comes in the gray case, for about 10 years. i'll break a pusher pin about every 2 years. people always bad mouth this tool & to those folks i say....you're doing it wrong!
 
elskipador said:
you're doing it wrong!
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yes I am... I now use a bolt cutter to kill the chain :teeth

I think mines in a blue case... for an anvil press it is great. i do like though how the RK ( I think) comes with a chain "gap" so you can't over-tighten the master too much

and I do not bad mouth it. I think it is a great tool, I just think there are better ones out there
 
elskipador said:
i've had the regular one from motion-pro, the one that comes in the gray case, for about 10 years. i'll break a pusher pin about every 2 years. people always bad mouth this tool & to those folks i say....you're doing it wrong!
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I've had mine 9 years and think the same. I just don't see how the pin could break if you align the tool properly because the hole in the side of the Motion Pro tool will be perfectly in line with the chain pin, so when you push the pin out it slides through the hole in the Motion Pro tool.

Seems like a foolproof design really, all you have to do is slide the tool's hole over the back of the link until you feel it click into place over the chain's pin you're about to remove. Then do the same with the front side of the link and ensure the Motion Pro's huge press bolt with the hole in it snaps over the front side of the chain's pin. Once you have it aligned properly, use a 13/16ths wrench to snug the huge bolt in place up against the chain link, then use a 9/16ths wrench to tighten the inside bolt with the hole in it as it slowly pushes forward until you feel the pin pop out the other side.

Out of maybe 20 to 30 chains done on mine and many friend's bikes, I've only snapped one pin in those 9 years, and that was totally my fault because I was breaking a chain on a rusted partsbike, and had already popped out the rusty pin which means you're supposed to be home free at that point. But I had consumed a few adult beverages already, got impatient loosening the tool off the chain and pulled hard on the Motion Pro before I remembered I had yet to slide the Motion Pro pin back out of the chain. Snap! :laughing
 
One of the things I learned as a trick was to use the bigger/est push pin to push the head of the rivet through. Once that is done than I use the smaller one to push the whole rivet through and I am home free from there.
 
I have installed a lot of chains with my Motion Pro Jumbo and yep I broke a pin, because I messed up. But I would not use any other chain tool.
 
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