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Dead Battery?

Sharky

Sharky

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 31, 2002
Location
Walnut Creek
Moto(s)
GSX-R 1000; CR 250 x 2; Duke II; XR650L; YSR 50;
So, I go to start my G1K this morning. Turn the key on, fuel pump spools up and the lights come on. Hit the starter button and everything goes black. No power, no nuthin'. Work the key a couple of times with zero results.

Took the seat off and check the voltage. 12.73v key off. Turn the key on and the battery drops to .003! Looks like it holds absolutely zero load, despite having a full charge. I have a spare battery floating around which I will try this evening (took my KTM to work instead).

Any other ideas besides a seriously screwed battery? I didn't do a fuse check because I didn't have time to waste this morning and the fact that the by turning on the key dumps the voltage leads me to believe the fuse connections are working.
 
The 12.7v key off is good but the .003v when the key is on signals dead battery.

#1 check the battery terminal screws are snug.

#2 put the battery on a tender/charger 2amp max.

#3 if you can get the bike started with bump start or jumper battery check the battery voltage when the bike is running and report back.
 
mototireguy said:
The 12.7v key off is good but the .003v when the key is on signals dead battery.

#1 check the battery terminal screws are snug.

#2 put the battery on a tender/charger 2amp max.

#3 if you can get the bike started with bump start or jumper battery check the battery voltage when the bike is running and report back.
Click to expand...

Terminals were snug and corrosion free.
I'm probably going to just throw the extra battery I have in instead of messing with the battery tender with the battery in the bike.

Once I get the bike started, will report back with the voltage values.
 
dravnx said:
See the sticky at the top.
Troubleshoot your charging system
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=394141
Click to expand...

I am familiar with the typical troubleshoot protocol. The weirdness with the complete failure to hold any load and yet have acceptable voltage is what the question is about really. The weirdness makes me think I'm missing something. The obvious first step is the charge and see what happens. I am not going to start there since I have an extra battery and will check charging voltage without having to wait and see if the battery will take a charge.

ALSO, I ride the bike daily, so absent a charging issue (which it certainly does not look like given the acceptable key off voltage) it's most likely just a flat battery.

My G1K is a high mileage bike that has the occasional harness connector issues so there's that possibility.
 
What year GSXR? I seem to remember there were certain years notorious for bad stators and it's easy to check the voltage across all three points.

12v under no load is perfectly possible. That's why you always test under load.
 
easter bunny said:
What year GSXR? I seem to remember there were certain years notorious for bad stators and it's easy to check the voltage across all three points.

12v under no load is perfectly possible. That's why you always test under load.
Click to expand...

It's an 02'. The stock battery lasted the first 12 or so years. This is the second battery (Bikemaster brand). The battery is several years old and Bikemaster's don't exactly have the reputation for long lasting reliability. Never had an issue with the R/R or stator so far, but worth a look once I get her running this evening.
 
IIRC 01-03 were the culprit years. Test the stator. Super easy with a multi meter. At least rule that out.
 
Sharky said:
............. The weirdness with the complete failure to hold any load and yet have acceptable voltage is what the question is about really. .......................
Click to expand...

Not weird at all... I've seen that a few times with bad batteries.... of course I've also seen similar symptoms with a bad starter too :dunno


Follow the ts thread !!
 
Sharky said:
The weirdness with the complete failure to hold any load and yet have acceptable voltage ...
Click to expand...

A failing, almost dead battery can have what is called a surface charge: the voltage is correct when there is no load. It's very common.
 
Hoppalong said:
A failing, almost dead battery can have what is called a surface charge: the voltage is correct when there is no load. It's very common.
Click to expand...

I've just not really seen that, or recognized it when I have come across it. Most of the time I have seen bad batteries the voltage has been on the low side or none at all. I am for sure seeing it now.
 
Hoppalong said:
A failing, almost dead battery can have what is called a surface charge: the voltage is correct when there is no load. It's very common.
Click to expand...

This. Battery voltage is only half the equation. The battery must also be capable of supplying adequate current. A battery can have a full charge voltage wise and still be totally incapable of doing any work beyond lighting a few lights. A starter draws a lot of current.

Since your battery goes to zero (for all intents and purposes), I'd say it's got an internal short. Also, since your battery shows a voltage of 12.73 with no or little load on it, that would indicate your charging system is OK. If the charging system was bad, you wouldn't have that much voltage.

So, replace the battery. If you can, buy a quality Yuasa AGM where you fill it with acid yourself. Follow the instructions. After putting the acid in, wait a couple hours before putting it on a Battery Tender. After it's been on the battery Tender overnight, disconnect the Tender and wait an additional two hours for the battery to stabilize. Then check voltage. It should be right at or near 12.8 volts. If all is good, install the battery, fire up the bike, and check voltage at the battery with the engine running. 'Should be 14+ volts.

Good luck.
 
Exact same thing happened to my ZX14 at Crater Lake. It turned out to be a shorted battery Happened at a turnout where we stopped for pictures. No warning at all. Got a new battery and finished the trip with no problems.
 
As an update:
Swapped the battery for a spare I had for my ktm.
Fits like a glove and the bike starts/runs fine. Charging system checks out fine at 14.3 to 14.8/9v.

The replacement I had is a Yuasa brand, so I'll stick with it for now. Before you ask, i have no idea what the battery is rated for but the t fits and certainly has enough juice to spin up the G1k.
Thanks for the feedback.
 
Sharky said:
I've just not really seen that, or recognized it when I have come across it. Most of the time I have seen bad batteries the voltage has been on the low side or none at all. I am for sure seeing it now.
Click to expand...
I posted here about surface charge a year or more ago. While I have been aware of this phenomenon for decades, I was surprised that this affected my Battery Tender Jr.: the charger indicated a full charge on the battery, but was being fooled by "surface charge." The battery was toast.

Lex
 
I think I may try Lipo next. I ride my bikes often enough I don't really need to float charge them.
 
Lex Talionis said:
I posted here about surface charge a year or more ago. While I have been aware of this phenomenon for decades, I was surprised that this affected my Battery Tender Jr.: the charger indicated a full charge on the battery, but was being fooled by "surface charge." The battery was toast.

Lex
Click to expand...
Yep!

My RT sits on a tender all the time. A few years back I went for a ride. It started perfectly. That bike takes a lot of power to turn over. I rode for a couple of hours and pulled into a filling station. I was surprised to find that it would not turn over at all and I just got a couple of clicks. WTF, from perfect to no start so fast! I'll say now it was not the charging system. I bump started it, and rode it home. Testing the charging system showed 14.2 volts so I installed a new battery. It has been perfect for years now. The moral of my story is batteries can and will just die without warning.
 
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