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Downshifts
- Thread starter JP-forty-three
- Start date
xgambit
Post Count +1
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- Apr 1, 2005
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- San Francisco
- Moto(s)
- XB9s XB12s 1125CR 450SMR WR250X
- Name
- Chess
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and more +1
holding the throttle works great on the buell and the ghoststrike.
holding the throttle works great on the buell and the ghoststrike.
Z3n
Squid.
Ahh, i should also add...this is a lot more difficult to do (requires a quicker touch) on the CBR than it would have been on my E model. The CBR revs so much quicker, it's the fastest possible movement i can make on the clutch. The E reved so much slower that i would have to move quite a bit slower. T
he easiest way to figure out how much clutch slip to use for me was to just hold the throttle at a constant location while i was moving along, pull in the clutch, and see how fast the revs rose. If they rose quickly, i'd have to be quick on the clutch, and if i was in a throttle position where they rose more slowly, i knew i needed to give it a little bit more time.
Hope this helped shed a little light on how you can use this technique, and if i made a mistake, i'm sure JP will come in and sort me out...or Ernie...
he easiest way to figure out how much clutch slip to use for me was to just hold the throttle at a constant location while i was moving along, pull in the clutch, and see how fast the revs rose. If they rose quickly, i'd have to be quick on the clutch, and if i was in a throttle position where they rose more slowly, i knew i needed to give it a little bit more time.
Hope this helped shed a little light on how you can use this technique, and if i made a mistake, i'm sure JP will come in and sort me out...or Ernie...
It has helped me out and I appreciate you guys taking the time to break it down for me. I do understand that it should be practiced at a low speed and in a straight line; but can I just get a cut and dry answer on the correct way to save a mistake? If you watch the videos, you can see that JP is backing it in on some of the turns using this technique. So, what is the best recovery for an improper shift using this technique?
Lets do the rear wheel lock first. Say you make your shift at too high an rpm, or your heavy flywheel doesn't allow the motor to spin up as fast as you are clutching/ shifting, some how or another you have lost traction to the rear.
Is the best solution to
-haul the clutch back in, decelerate further, then blip and re-release
-just ride it out and pray you hook back up before something bad happens
-upshift and try again (something I read on this forum)
- pull the clutch part way back in to reduce the force exerted on the rear wheel (and burn the piss outta your clutch)
and how about the other end of it, that being that you do a miniature version of wheelying because you didn't get the tranny re-engaged quickly enough and your rpms climbed to far. You have just unloaded the front tire AND upset the bike, both bad things while slowing for a turn...
Do you
-pull the clutch back in
-roll off the throttle
-reduce pressure on front break
-short shift back up a gear
-drag the rear brake
-combination of the above
Its not very likely that any of these will happen during the preliminary learning phase of this technique, but as it works for me and I get closer and closer to the limit of traction, one or more of these things are likely to happen. having the best solution allows you to practice the best solution under controlled circumstances, forming a habit and thus improving your odds of keeping the bike upright during an "oh shit" moment. So, whats THE BEST SAVE?
Lets do the rear wheel lock first. Say you make your shift at too high an rpm, or your heavy flywheel doesn't allow the motor to spin up as fast as you are clutching/ shifting, some how or another you have lost traction to the rear.
Is the best solution to
-haul the clutch back in, decelerate further, then blip and re-release
-just ride it out and pray you hook back up before something bad happens
-upshift and try again (something I read on this forum)
- pull the clutch part way back in to reduce the force exerted on the rear wheel (and burn the piss outta your clutch)
and how about the other end of it, that being that you do a miniature version of wheelying because you didn't get the tranny re-engaged quickly enough and your rpms climbed to far. You have just unloaded the front tire AND upset the bike, both bad things while slowing for a turn...
Do you
-pull the clutch back in
-roll off the throttle
-reduce pressure on front break
-short shift back up a gear
-drag the rear brake
-combination of the above
Its not very likely that any of these will happen during the preliminary learning phase of this technique, but as it works for me and I get closer and closer to the limit of traction, one or more of these things are likely to happen. having the best solution allows you to practice the best solution under controlled circumstances, forming a habit and thus improving your odds of keeping the bike upright during an "oh shit" moment. So, whats THE BEST SAVE?
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Z3n
Squid.
You'd deal with it the same way you would if you screwed up a blip...using this technique isn't going to cause it to be any worse or better than messing up a blip.
Z3n
Squid.
Lazerus said:
The problem is, the best thing to do will be situational. If you screw it up and you're already in the corner, your choices are going to be limited...Anything you do, you're gonna want to do smoothly, so that means no chopping the throttle, no smacking it open, etc.
My issue here is with this technique, it's hard to screw it up to the point where it could go really badly. You'd have to be full on the gas in order to get it to pop high enough to wheelie, which isn't really in line with when this technique is used, and you'd have to be dead off the gas to lock the rear, which again, isn't really when this technique is used either. The situations that you'd use this technique in are not situations where you're going to end up pull the front end if you give it too much, especially not on an RF600, and it'd be hard to step the rear out unless you were working at it.
after reading reg pridmore's smooth riding and read about keeping the throttle constant then quickly downshift I said to myself that cant be right. But I tried it on the straightaway and it works wonders. Its like having auto transmission. I stopped wondering how it works but it really works. try it at a slow speed 35-40 mph put pressure on the shifter keep the throttle constant then flick the clutch lever probably 1/4 of full travel. The gear will downshift rpm will rise speed will be the same.
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I understand that it is situational, this is exactly why I included SITUATIONS in my question!
You say that if if happens in a corner, your choices are limited..... LIMITED TO WHAT?
What im asking for are tips and tricks. What I'm getting is vague suggestions Nobody wants to share their secrets with an up and comer huh? I see how you are
By miniature version of a wheelie, I meant exactly that. Not a literal wheelie, but the same course of clutch and throttle action that would be used to clutch up a wheelie, thus transferring more wieght to the rear, whether or not the front actually comes up.
It seems like you might be shying away from giving an etched in stone answer for fear than someone else might point out flaws in it.
If thats the case, its okay, but trust that I understand the technique. I just KNOW that I wont be able to always execute it to perfection, and would like to have a "plan b" to fall back on.
Anybody willing to offer some excellent, well thought out plan B's? (I can already feel the flames coming)
You say that if if happens in a corner, your choices are limited..... LIMITED TO WHAT?
What im asking for are tips and tricks. What I'm getting is vague suggestions Nobody wants to share their secrets with an up and comer huh? I see how you are
By miniature version of a wheelie, I meant exactly that. Not a literal wheelie, but the same course of clutch and throttle action that would be used to clutch up a wheelie, thus transferring more wieght to the rear, whether or not the front actually comes up.
It seems like you might be shying away from giving an etched in stone answer for fear than someone else might point out flaws in it.
If thats the case, its okay, but trust that I understand the technique. I just KNOW that I wont be able to always execute it to perfection, and would like to have a "plan b" to fall back on.Anybody willing to offer some excellent, well thought out plan B's? (I can already feel the flames coming)
quasi888
Moto babies
Lazerus, you're approaching a corner -- ANY corner -- for which you need to downshift from, say, 4th to 2nd. What is the sequence of events required to execute this technique, as you understand it?
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Looking at it from just a point of clutch and throttle
1. Begin to roll off of throttle with enough "spare rpms" for the increase that will be gained by downshifting
2. Before throttle has completely closed, pull in clutch lever the minimum distance possible to allow a smooth transition, not overshooting past the completely disengaged point.
3. quickly downshift
4 release clutch
5. allow time if necessary for revs to fall far enough to accomodate another downshift without redlining
6. repeat step 2
7. repeat step 3
8. repeat step four with a stronger focus on balancing traction via the rate at which you are releasing clutch.
the magic in this being bike specific as gearing effects rpm difference between gears, thus the amount of gap needed below redline is a variable. The other variable is the amount of throttle needed from bike to bike and rider to rider to allow the rpm's to climb the correct amount within the time span that the clutch is disengaged for shifting. The flywheel weight vs hp and quickness of the riders shift being the two most prominent determinng factors. The idea is to get your shifting done early, quickly, and without allowing your rpm's to fall far enough to require more throttle than is already being applied (blipping) in order to rev match the engine for the upcoming gear.
what did I miss?
1. Begin to roll off of throttle with enough "spare rpms" for the increase that will be gained by downshifting
2. Before throttle has completely closed, pull in clutch lever the minimum distance possible to allow a smooth transition, not overshooting past the completely disengaged point.
3. quickly downshift
4 release clutch
5. allow time if necessary for revs to fall far enough to accomodate another downshift without redlining
6. repeat step 2
7. repeat step 3
8. repeat step four with a stronger focus on balancing traction via the rate at which you are releasing clutch.
the magic in this being bike specific as gearing effects rpm difference between gears, thus the amount of gap needed below redline is a variable. The other variable is the amount of throttle needed from bike to bike and rider to rider to allow the rpm's to climb the correct amount within the time span that the clutch is disengaged for shifting. The flywheel weight vs hp and quickness of the riders shift being the two most prominent determinng factors. The idea is to get your shifting done early, quickly, and without allowing your rpm's to fall far enough to require more throttle than is already being applied (blipping) in order to rev match the engine for the upcoming gear.
what did I miss?
fubar929
New member
- Joined
- Apr 27, 2003
- Location
- Mountain View, CA.
- Moto(s)
- 2015 KTM 1290 Super Duke R, 2018 Ducati Supersport S
Actually, I've used this technique on a number of sport bikes (from I-4s to V-Twins) and it works pretty much the same on all of them... As long as the gearing isn't too crazy and you're 1500-2000rpm from redline it should work without a hitch!
BTW: stop worrying about high-siding yourself to the moon. I've screwed this technique up on multiple dozens of occasions. The worst I've been able to do is chirp the rear tire and upset the chassis a little bit. Since you're executing the downshift very early in the turn, there's plenty of time for the suspension to settle down before you have to lean the bike over... just don't do anything to upset the bike even more and you'll be fine.
BTW: stop worrying about high-siding yourself to the moon. I've screwed this technique up on multiple dozens of occasions. The worst I've been able to do is chirp the rear tire and upset the chassis a little bit. Since you're executing the downshift very early in the turn, there's plenty of time for the suspension to settle down before you have to lean the bike over... just don't do anything to upset the bike even more and you'll be fine.
Z3n
Squid.
Lazerus said:
Well, at the end of the entire shift proceedure, when you're dropping a lot of gears, it's likely you're still going to have to blip. What this allows you to do is build your margin of error and downshift earlier and smoother than you typically would, allowing the chassis to settle in case of a missed shift or some similar issue.
fubar said it best...any screwing up you do on a technique like this will have minimal effects on the bike itself. Just let it sort itself out and lean it in.
A little bit of weight loading up the front and a little bit of rear wheel chirp is no big deal...you're going to be upright, on the brakes, and shifting, and you'd have to do something really insane (drop the clutch with it at idle when it should be at 11k) to get it to slide out hard, and a weight shift off the front probably won't cause any issues either, just upset the suspension. For the most part, you're just gonna want to let the bike self-correct.
quasi888
Moto babies
+1 Z3n
I think the misunderstanding that many people have -- and I had it myself, before I carefully analyzed the videos -- is that this technique can be applied for every downshift, and it's not.
Jason even states as much.
Z3n hit the nail on the head:
In a sequence of downshifts -- whether from 5th to 2nd, or 4th to 1st, or whatever -- how many of those downshifts in which the technique can be used depends in part on how quickly you need to be slowing down, and how quickly you can bang down the gears during the time the throttle is still open.
In a race/track situation, in which you are striving to be always either accelerating or braking -- never coasting -- your main objective coming into a turn is to slow the bike down in as short a distance as possible. As such, as soon as you finish rolling off, you need to be ramping up on the brakes. How many downshifts can you bang down Pridmore-style during the short timespan it takes to roll off to zero throttle? For most of us mortals, I would say one, maybe two. The remaining downshifts would need to be done via blipping or feathering, because you need to be on the brakes by then, and RPMs are rapidly decreasing. But that's OK, you executed one smooth downshift before ever touching the brakes, and therefore one less downshift to worry about as you're rapidly decelerating toward the corner.
In fact, study some of Jason's videos that have data overlays. Coming from a high speed straight, throttle is at 100%. Then you'll hear the engine overrev -- he's just downshifted once, maybe twice -- and then throttle goes to 0%, and he starts braking. From that point on, ALL subsequent dowhshifts are achieved via blipping (you'll periodically see the throttle position jump from 0% to 30% or so).
In a street situation, where you're (ostensibly) not racing, you have the liberty of beginning your deceleration process a lot earlier and stretching it out. In the original thread somebody mentioned using the Pridmore technique on long highway offramps, and that is a good example. Let's say you're on the freeway cruising in 5th gear. You take the exit, and *gradually* begin rolling off. The throttle is still open, maybe 60%, so you quickly clutch in and click down to 4th. A second or two later you're still rolling off, maybe you're at 30% throttle now, you clutch in and downshift again to 3rd. At this point you're off throttle and begin squeezing the brakes. The remaining downshifts you'll need to do with blipping or feathering, but you were able to bang down 2 gears before you even touched the brakes. Smooth.
I think the misunderstanding that many people have -- and I had it myself, before I carefully analyzed the videos -- is that this technique can be applied for every downshift, and it's not.
Jason even states as much.
Z3n hit the nail on the head:
In a sequence of downshifts -- whether from 5th to 2nd, or 4th to 1st, or whatever -- how many of those downshifts in which the technique can be used depends in part on how quickly you need to be slowing down, and how quickly you can bang down the gears during the time the throttle is still open.
In a race/track situation, in which you are striving to be always either accelerating or braking -- never coasting -- your main objective coming into a turn is to slow the bike down in as short a distance as possible. As such, as soon as you finish rolling off, you need to be ramping up on the brakes. How many downshifts can you bang down Pridmore-style during the short timespan it takes to roll off to zero throttle? For most of us mortals, I would say one, maybe two. The remaining downshifts would need to be done via blipping or feathering, because you need to be on the brakes by then, and RPMs are rapidly decreasing. But that's OK, you executed one smooth downshift before ever touching the brakes, and therefore one less downshift to worry about as you're rapidly decelerating toward the corner.
In fact, study some of Jason's videos that have data overlays. Coming from a high speed straight, throttle is at 100%. Then you'll hear the engine overrev -- he's just downshifted once, maybe twice -- and then throttle goes to 0%, and he starts braking. From that point on, ALL subsequent dowhshifts are achieved via blipping (you'll periodically see the throttle position jump from 0% to 30% or so).
In a street situation, where you're (ostensibly
) not racing, you have the liberty of beginning your deceleration process a lot earlier and stretching it out. In the original thread somebody mentioned using the Pridmore technique on long highway offramps, and that is a good example. Let's say you're on the freeway cruising in 5th gear. You take the exit, and *gradually* begin rolling off. The throttle is still open, maybe 60%, so you quickly clutch in and click down to 4th. A second or two later you're still rolling off, maybe you're at 30% throttle now, you clutch in and downshift again to 3rd. At this point you're off throttle and begin squeezing the brakes. The remaining downshifts you'll need to do with blipping or feathering, but you were able to bang down 2 gears before you even touched the brakes. Smooth.Thank you fubar292, Z3n, and quasi888! You are gentlemen and scholars! So then, the concensus is to ride it out? perrrfect.
"Actually, I've used this technique on a number of sport bikes (from I-4s to V-Twins) and it works pretty much the same on all of them... As long as the gearing isn't too crazy and you're 1500-2000rpm from redline it should work without a hitch"
Im gonna have to get you, a 95 ninja 250, and an 01 gixxer 750 in the same place at the same time. The difference in the rate the revs climb is night and day!
"In fact, study some of Jason's videos that have data overlays. Coming from a high speed straight, throttle is at 100%. Then you'll hear the engine overrev -- he's just downshifted once, maybe twice -- and then throttle goes to 0%, and he starts braking. From that point on, ALL subsequent dowhshifts are achieved via blipping (you'll periodically see the throttle position jump from 0% to 30% or so)."
I did this last night. In the top couple of videos, you see more of this technique used, and SOMETIMES blipping. As you progress further down the list however, blipping all but disappears! The number of downshifts made with the throttle at dead zero is crazy.
Unfortunately, as in all things I attempt to learn, answers generate more questions. By having the engine bounce off of the limiter, aren't you putting more strain on the motor and drive? This directly conflicts with Kieth Code's advise on downshifts.
I can see the advantage to getting your gear set early, as it allows the bike to settle before turn in and gives you a better chance of nailing your drive out of the corner
BUT if you are downshifting at a point where before you would just be rolling of, havent you just effectively spent more time and distance slowing down at a greater rate? Do you need to change up your reference points to compensate? It seems like it would leave you wide open for someone to outbrake you. If you are on the brakes before you begin downshifting, it seems like you are handling both deceleration tasks simulateously thus lowering your lap times.
again, thank you folks for taking me by the hand here. It is this kind of knowledge sharing that I thirst for and actively seek. I appreciate every ounce of it! The track is coming soon, but at my income level will be a rarity, so the more free coaching I can get, the better
"Actually, I've used this technique on a number of sport bikes (from I-4s to V-Twins) and it works pretty much the same on all of them... As long as the gearing isn't too crazy and you're 1500-2000rpm from redline it should work without a hitch"
Im gonna have to get you, a 95 ninja 250, and an 01 gixxer 750 in the same place at the same time. The difference in the rate the revs climb is night and day!
"In fact, study some of Jason's videos that have data overlays. Coming from a high speed straight, throttle is at 100%. Then you'll hear the engine overrev -- he's just downshifted once, maybe twice -- and then throttle goes to 0%, and he starts braking. From that point on, ALL subsequent dowhshifts are achieved via blipping (you'll periodically see the throttle position jump from 0% to 30% or so)."
I did this last night. In the top couple of videos, you see more of this technique used, and SOMETIMES blipping. As you progress further down the list however, blipping all but disappears! The number of downshifts made with the throttle at dead zero is crazy.
Unfortunately, as in all things I attempt to learn, answers generate more questions. By having the engine bounce off of the limiter, aren't you putting more strain on the motor and drive? This directly conflicts with Kieth Code's advise on downshifts.
I can see the advantage to getting your gear set early, as it allows the bike to settle before turn in and gives you a better chance of nailing your drive out of the corner
BUT if you are downshifting at a point where before you would just be rolling of, havent you just effectively spent more time and distance slowing down at a greater rate? Do you need to change up your reference points to compensate? It seems like it would leave you wide open for someone to outbrake you. If you are on the brakes before you begin downshifting, it seems like you are handling both deceleration tasks simulateously thus lowering your lap times.
again, thank you folks for taking me by the hand here. It is this kind of knowledge sharing that I thirst for and actively seek. I appreciate every ounce of it! The track is coming soon, but at my income level will be a rarity, so the more free coaching I can get, the better
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uraniaclio
Pain Kills
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2006
- Location
- Oakland
- Moto(s)
- 03 Vespa Piaggio LT, 03 SV650 trackbike, 04 DL650, 06 D675
- Name
- Crom
Lazerus,
Just try it out. I'm a newb and been messing with this technique and for sure it's the best initial shift. I am the suckies at smooth blip downshift and this pretty much solved my problem. Sometimes I can only feel the downshift by sound. It's amazing how much easier it is to rev-match this way. Just kinda happens.
As for saving a bad downshift, by the time I realize I had a bad downshift, I've already hopped or wiggled. Though my reflexes ain't all that top-notch.
And it's fubar929, not fubar292. He teaches for Keigwin and Quasi888 is herra srow D pace AFM racer. I caught him sandpapering the toesliders on his boots. (That's for the Chow Yun Fat comment 
)
EDIT: BTW, Im definitely signing up for STAR next year. If JP is willing to spend the time to explain this on a forum, I can only imagine what he does for his students. Besides, I hear the 2-up ride with JP is worth the price of admission.
Just try it out. I'm a newb and been messing with this technique and for sure it's the best initial shift. I am the suckies at smooth blip downshift and this pretty much solved my problem. Sometimes I can only feel the downshift by sound. It's amazing how much easier it is to rev-match this way. Just kinda happens.
As for saving a bad downshift, by the time I realize I had a bad downshift, I've already hopped or wiggled.
Though my reflexes ain't all that top-notch.And it's fubar929, not fubar292. He teaches for Keigwin and Quasi888 is herra srow D pace AFM racer. I caught him sandpapering the toesliders on his boots.
(That's for the Chow Yun Fat comment )EDIT: BTW, Im definitely signing up for STAR next year. If JP is willing to spend the time to explain this on a forum, I can only imagine what he does for his students. Besides, I hear the 2-up ride with JP is worth the price of admission.
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I'd love to, but at the moment I am stuck bench racing
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=199667
http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=199667
uraniaclio
Pain Kills
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2006
- Location
- Oakland
- Moto(s)
- 03 Vespa Piaggio LT, 03 SV650 trackbike, 04 DL650, 06 D675
- Name
- Crom
Lazerus said:
Doode,
I would shoot myself right now.
Good luck to you.
JP-forty-three
New member
Hey there, me again. Im currently on the road but got a text from James saying I may need to try to clear some things up. I have read all your threads and its great to see that some of you are getting what I was saying, I like it more that there are people with questions. I try to keep my riding tips as simplistic as I can because at the end of the day this is a hobby for most of us and not a way to make a living going from racetrack to racetrack.
Lazerus, I was just like you, full of questions. Seemed with every answer 100 more questions popped up. With so many different levels of riders its difficult to come up with perfect answers. First off, you have to compare apples to apples. Watching a video of me going hard at a racetrack isnt going to apply to most of us in this forum. The dynamics of what my bike does compared to the average commuter or 3 times a month trackday rider will be different Im sure you would agree. However, getting your downshifts done early was the main lesson and I think that was understood. I want you to realize that from the time you deceralate to the time you do your first downshift needs to be sooner. To many of us wait and then lose our RPMs. In one post I saw someone wrote that this may cause a highside. Actually it is the opposite. I dont want you leaning your bike in and doing your last downshift. I want that last downshift to be done as early as possible also. The application of how we realease the clutch when we get into our lowest gear is what causes the bike to do bad things. Really practice realising the clutch and not dropping it.
Another thing I saw was worrying about over revving the bike and hurting the motor. I dont want you at redline and then downshifting. If im at redline in 4th gear going to a 2nd gear turn, I will roll the throttle off 2500-3000 RPM then get my shift to 3rd done, RPMs go back up and then go to 2nd not long after because my slowdown rate will be quicker now im on the brakes. When you see me come down from 6th to 2nd at Road America im braking from 175 mph, all the weight of the bike goes forward obviously and by the time I get to my last downshift, as quick as they all are, you may here a slight blip. Blipping is totally ok. Someone also noticed the bike maybe backing in, very observant again, that is because I have got it in my lowest gear as early as I can and control how much engine I want to help slow me down.
Next time you go to a race, find a spot where the riders come from a fast straight to a slow corner where they are downshifting and braking. One thing you will most definetly here is ALOT of RPM. This is because they want to get there downshifts done and be ready for the turn. There is alot going on at that time and having the bike in the gear they need is essential. What worries me most about late downshifters or those of us that make our last downshift before we turn in is, what if you catch a false neutral? Or dont let the clutch out smooth enough. The second is a technique we can all get better at.
Finally, I saw someone read dads book. I am a product of my father, he is 3 time Superbike Champion, a credential most of us racers wish we had. I took things my dad taught me and tried to refine them over the years as bikes and tires got better. Thanks to those of you who say you are thinking about coming to a STAR school, would be great to meet you and we will do the 2 up ride so you can feel the technique we are talking about. Come to think of it, hope you cant feel me downshift.
Thanks again and ride safe
JP
Lazerus, I was just like you, full of questions. Seemed with every answer 100 more questions popped up. With so many different levels of riders its difficult to come up with perfect answers. First off, you have to compare apples to apples. Watching a video of me going hard at a racetrack isnt going to apply to most of us in this forum. The dynamics of what my bike does compared to the average commuter or 3 times a month trackday rider will be different Im sure you would agree. However, getting your downshifts done early was the main lesson and I think that was understood. I want you to realize that from the time you deceralate to the time you do your first downshift needs to be sooner. To many of us wait and then lose our RPMs. In one post I saw someone wrote that this may cause a highside. Actually it is the opposite. I dont want you leaning your bike in and doing your last downshift. I want that last downshift to be done as early as possible also. The application of how we realease the clutch when we get into our lowest gear is what causes the bike to do bad things. Really practice realising the clutch and not dropping it.
Another thing I saw was worrying about over revving the bike and hurting the motor. I dont want you at redline and then downshifting. If im at redline in 4th gear going to a 2nd gear turn, I will roll the throttle off 2500-3000 RPM then get my shift to 3rd done, RPMs go back up and then go to 2nd not long after because my slowdown rate will be quicker now im on the brakes. When you see me come down from 6th to 2nd at Road America im braking from 175 mph, all the weight of the bike goes forward obviously and by the time I get to my last downshift, as quick as they all are, you may here a slight blip. Blipping is totally ok. Someone also noticed the bike maybe backing in, very observant again, that is because I have got it in my lowest gear as early as I can and control how much engine I want to help slow me down.
Next time you go to a race, find a spot where the riders come from a fast straight to a slow corner where they are downshifting and braking. One thing you will most definetly here is ALOT of RPM. This is because they want to get there downshifts done and be ready for the turn. There is alot going on at that time and having the bike in the gear they need is essential. What worries me most about late downshifters or those of us that make our last downshift before we turn in is, what if you catch a false neutral? Or dont let the clutch out smooth enough. The second is a technique we can all get better at.
Finally, I saw someone read dads book. I am a product of my father, he is 3 time Superbike Champion, a credential most of us racers wish we had. I took things my dad taught me and tried to refine them over the years as bikes and tires got better. Thanks to those of you who say you are thinking about coming to a STAR school, would be great to meet you and we will do the 2 up ride so you can feel the technique we are talking about. Come to think of it, hope you cant feel me downshift.
Thanks again and ride safe
JP