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Engine still overheating

stav2201: do not stat the bike again until you diagnose the oil pressure warning. Yes, with that warning on it is possible that you damaged an oil passage, oil line, the oil pickup, or the oil pump it's self.

ST Guy said:
Actually, it would cause overheating and here's why:

A pocket of air can easily be compressed by the expanding coolant as the coolant heats up. As a result, the required pressure never builds up in the cooling system and the coolant then can boil at a much lower temperature. Once the coolant starts to boil, it's effectiveness is greatly reduced and things start to get even hotter. End result is overheating.
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How much are are we talking about here? Air does compress, but the coolant pressures already rise high enough during normal operation that the radiator cap lets off excess pressure by venting fluid into the coolant reservoir.

I'm not suggesting that air bubbles won't result in higher engine temperatures, or that they will reduce the boiling point. What I'm suggesting is that unless a very significant volume of coolant is displaced, it shouldn't* cause an increase in the indicated coolant temperature on the dash.

Coolant temperature is entirely dictated by the engine's ability to put heat into the coolant, vs the Radiator's ability to get the heat out. Coolant temperature will rise either through an increase in heat production, or a reduction in heat elimination.

Conversely, if the engine is not able to transfer heat into the coolant, the coolant temperature will drop relative to a healthy engine, even as the oil temperature and internal component temperatures rise.

* Although I could imagine a situation where there is a localized hot-spot next to the coolant thermometer.

* Also, If you displace 5% of your total coolant with air, the remaining coolant would have to get slightly (about 5%?) hotter in order remove the same amount of heat from the engine.
 
stav2201 said:
Still over heats, I burped the system 3 times, Ive checked for leaks in the hoses, and ive swayed the bike back and forth eveytime i start it up. It is still over heating. (I dunno about new sportbikes over heating, even on the hottest summer day last year when i was riding on the freeway when i was stopped it hit 220 then the fan kicked in and it dropped in temp).
'
Anyone out there wanna come by and check out my bike to make sure im doing everything correct, this is extremely frustrating. I almost feel compelled the do a compression test to see if i have a blown head or somptin.
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Come by my place this saturday.. I'll be working on my bike and my wives new VW bug.. I'll look at it for you.
 
thermostat bad?

hi, I'm having some overheating issue after just changing my coolant. I just read this overheating post, but it didn't quite answer my questions. I've got an 04 honda 599. First ride after the new coolant I noticed that the temp needle was going up a lot higher than the bike ever did before the change. I noticed this while waiting at a light going downhill--the needle didn't go into the red, but went well over halfway, whereas before I've never seen it go over about a third, even when idling in my driveway.

So...I figured I didn't burp it well enough. I did that, following the service manual--no bleed screw, just left the cap off, ran it for a few minutes, blipped the throttle a few times until the coolant seemed to let some bubbles out, and the water started coming out of the radiator neck. I put the cap back on (new cap, the old one was leaking) and tested it out. Seemed fine. Last weekend I rode it up to point reyes and the temp was perfect.

but...today I took the bike for the same short ride where I first noticed the temp going up, and low and behold at that same light the temp was rising up very quickly, like getting close to red (is this place haunted?). So I'm wondering what might be up. Does this sound like a bad thermostat, that is starting to get stuck? The reason I ask is because after burping the system last week, I took a long ride with no problems. Seems like an air bubble would have showed up on that ride, rather than disappear and come back.

what else...when I flushed the coolant I took of the reservoir and cleaned it, checked the hoses by blowing through the, etc. Everything seems good. suggestions?
 
hayabusafiend said:
You're riding it with the oil light on? Are you trying to damage it? :rolleyes
Troubleshoot the oil pressure sensor and wiring. Post pics of what got damaged.
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The only thing that got damaged was the waterpump casing and the impeller.
-I dropped the bike going like 8 mph's
-It turned off as soon as it fell over
-it was on its side for less than a minute untill my bro got off his bike to help me put it up (its was laying down in a funky way and didnt wanna risk dropping it again)
-IT fell on the left side
-there is no way any oil lines could of got messed up let alone the oil pump.
 

You didn't burp it long enough.The thermostat has to open, it'll take some time just be patient.. You'll know when the water level starts going up and it'll crest.. start to over flow and then burrrrrrrrppp... The thermostat opens and then shuts and then opens and then shuts.. as the cold water gets to it after it opens it'll snap shut.. then it'll heat up open and shut until finally all the water is the same temp.
 
stav2201 said:
SO i just replaced the impeller on my waterpump since a fin broke when i dropped the bike. I bled the system 5 times and it is still over heating. Any ideas on what it may be?

If it is a broken waterpump, is there a simple way to check it? (other than assuming its broken)

Anybody got any ideas?
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alex, i recommend elskipador (shawn) a call....http://www.bayarearidersforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20626

good mechanic, charges by hourly, and he will come to your house to fix all your problems!!!
 
:teeth
 

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ironbutt--so after i have it running for a few minutes with the radiator cap off, and it burps like you describe, do i kill the engine, and then fill the radiator all the way up to the neck where the drain line to the reservoir goes? this seems to be the procedure in the shop manuel. if having air pockets in the system is a problem, how do you get the air out of the line that goes to the reservoir? the reservoir has coolant in it, but the line must have some air. or is that not a significant amount?
 
Ok, so.... I got some advice from a guy i know to check if the water pump is broken.
I removed the waterpump casing to expose the impeller and when i started the engine (just for a few seconds) The impeller was not moving.

So, does this mean the water pump is broken?
If so, how do i go abouts fixing it. I have removed the water pump before but im not sure how it isnt working properly if this is the issue?

Could there be a possibilty that the connecting rod that goes into the engine got unhooked from the belt?
 

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Burning1 said:
stav2201[/B

How much are are we talking about here? Air does compress, but the coolant pressures already rise high enough during normal operation that the radiator cap lets off excess pressure by venting fluid into the coolant reservoir.
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Not much. I don't have an actual number, but remember, the pressure is only going up to about 15 psi. And since the coolant doesn't expand that much, it doesn't take much of an air pocket to prevent the pressure from building up. Most people don't understand the importance of keeping the system presurized. It's critical.

My brother has a 92 Toyota truck with the 4 cylinder engine. If there was ever an engine and cooling system that was over designed, that's it. Those things will run forever. But, a few years back he was constantly overheating on the drive to work. The cooling system was full and he couldn't find any problems and couldn't find a leak so he called me up to have a look. After some very careful checking, I found a tiny hole, less than a pin hole, in the bottom of his radiator. It was enough to prevent the pressure from building up and hence the overheating. As soon as he had it repaired and the system held pressure, everything was sweet again. It doesn't take much.
 
ekphrasis said:
ironbutt--so after i have it running for a few minutes with the radiator cap off, and it burps like you describe, do i kill the engine, and then fill the radiator all the way up to the neck where the drain line to the reservoir goes? this seems to be the procedure in the shop manuel. if having air pockets in the system is a problem, how do you get the air out of the line that goes to the reservoir? the reservoir has coolant in it, but the line must have some air. or is that not a significant amount?
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Leave it running.. fill er up to the top.. don't worry about spilling. ( I don't use glycol and kill all the fury animals) it'll drip out.. or over flow.. just make sure theres no bubbles. Around the time the fan kicks on you should be good to go.

Eventually the water over flowing out of the filler neck will even out and stop spilling over.. Now if you get it real stupid hot and shut it off without the cap on, it'll gyser on you.. just seat the cap a little before shutting it down. Or don't get it frying pan hot...

Use a rag. don't burn yourself.. do this sober. Safety first.. :laughing
 
If ya use the old garden hose trick, make sure you drain the system completely and refill with pure distilled water. Then run for a bit. Drain again and refill and drain again with distilled water. You want to get every trace of tap water out of the system.
 
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