Flywheel and stator relationship?

[afm199]

I can't remember when I last used red loctite. The blue has always worked for me.

 

[Papi]

I can't remember when I last used red loctite. The blue has always worked for me.

Yep, me to.

One (un-named Mfg) has mounds of that red crap in some areas. You have to torch the fastener out, then torch and chase (tap clean) all the threads. It's a major pita. Even the replacement bolts are covered on the threads. I still get mad thinking about it.

 

[afm199]

Yep, me to.

One (un-named Mfg) has mounds of that red crap in some areas. You have to torch the fastener out, then torch and chase (tap clean) all the threads. It's a major pita. Even the replacement bolts are covered on the threads. I still get mad thinking about it.

My general experience has been that small fasteners with red tend to turn into major PITA's.

 

[Papi]

My general experience has been that small fasteners with red tend to turn into major PITA's.

Exactly. arty

 

[Entoptic]

Those are metric hex caps, 5mm if I recall. I used a short 5mm attached to my snap on cordless impact and they came right out. If you are having trouble, just disconnect the wire harness attached where the stator plugs into your rr or harness and come down to my shop with your new stator as we'll and I'll show you how and also how to put back together correctly.




No prob. It's not mine, but we follow the same guidelines to chase down gremlins. I've always found that with simple concise electrical testing, order and patching point A to B, you can get things fixed a lot faster.
.

.

Entropic: Postscript to my last;
There may be thread locker on those bolts, not sure if yours has them or not. I have seen it on some bikes, but not always. Shop manual for your bike would spec that. The bolts are generally around 10-14Nm (90-120inlbs -ish), again, depending on the bike. If you don't have an accurate torque wrench, borrow one. Again, follow Mfg. spec and guidelines. Sometimes where heat/cooling is a constant, threadlocker could be used as a safety net to prevent loose bolts from backing out completely and spinning around areas of your motor assembly, like the rotor/stator area. I am NOT recommending or denying you should use it. Read what the Mfg states in the manual.

Mild Rant Warning:
A side note about Threadlocking compounds mentioned above. On a couple of our bikes, the Mfg goes nutty with that stuff sometimes. I have seen it covering entire threads, which isn't needed or correct. The purpose of threadlocker is to add a vibration retardant to the bolts backing out should they loose tension on the joint. It is NOT a glue, it does NOT replace proper Torque of fasteners, it should NOT be your only method of securing fasteners properly.

We use very very little of it, if even at all. Sometimes a tiny drop or two on a stud to reduce mobility of the stud threads backing out, but again, very little. In most cases, we use a medium bond (blue) when we do, almost never high bond (red).

Now I said all this because many times folks will use Red Locktite up the ass on bolts, screws and studs. It's really unnecessary, and again, if the fastener is applied and torqued correctly, you are generally fine. Some caveats exist where threadlocker may be advantageous, but those instances are clearly spelled out in shop manuals most of the time, or understood in adbvance.

/Rant Off.

Papi great info and thank you for offering to help. Tonight I am going to purchase the correct sized tool and see if I can break loose the bolts. If I can't then I will PM you.

I purchased a torque wrench after I over tightened my oil pain bolt. Lesson learned! I used to believe that since I am a skinny guy I had to tighten down bolts really good because I didn't have the correct power. Turns out I got plenty of it and now use the torque wrench as a tool of truth and as a learning device.

I can't remember when I last used red loctite. The blue has always worked for me.

Yep, me to.

Did this just turn into the Matrix?

 

[channelcat]

Depends on bike/yr/motor/etc. But there may be a little bit. Put a small pan under it when you remove the cover. It may have a heavy magnet pull, but DO NOT PRY IT OFF (hope that was clear enough).

Anywho, don't let what oil is in there spook you.

---> BUT, a better way to approach this may be to warm the bike up a bit, drain all the oil (like you said above), change the filter, fix your stator, put the cover back on, refill with freshy oil. You get a service out of it, and less oil coming out of the cover. Win-Win.

all of a DR350s oil comes out when you pull off the stator cover.

 

[JimE]

Haha when I raced 125's we were always changing the clutches from practice to race sets and the "lazy guy" way was just lay the bike on it's side. Tank came off with one clip and a quick disconnect. No breather on the other side. Why not? Took all of 500ml I always changed it you could catch the whole sump in a ratio rite.

 

[Papi]

all of a DR350s oil comes out when you pull off the stator cover.

There are a few bikes like that.
The 14 has some come out, and another bike of mine, like yours above, dumps it all. Drain/Change/Fill is my standard MO, unless it's just a bit weeping out.

 

[elskipador]

If you lean the Dr over about 15-20 degrees to the right you can change the stator without all the oil spilling out.

 

[Papi]

If you lean the Dr over about 15-20 degrees to the right you can change the stator without all the oil spilling out.

Lean? Like a Chola?

 

[channelcat]

If you lean the Dr over about 15-20 degrees to the right you can change the stator without all the oil spilling out.

next time thnx.

 

[channelcat]

Lean? Like a Chola?

Hey, thatsa MY bike you talkin' about!