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GSXR 750 off season rebuild - refresh how to

upwindpoint said:
Do you have info on honing the cylinders like that? I've never looked into it much but thought that you weren't supposed to hone plated (coated) cylinders, particularly not with a ball hone, because it's too easy to burn through the coating? Or is there enough on there to get away with it a time or two?
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Ya, That's what I thought on these new cylinder walls.
 
Well, I didn't exactly learn the above, I'm still learning as I go. It helps that Suzuki has the best OEM manuals around.

As for the cylinder walls, I'll double check to make sure I don't have to bore them out to +1mm's now... But, I'm fairly sure that only applies to motors like Yamaha's YZF 600's where they had a special coating and not the run of the mill one suzuki uses. Could be wrong, but I doubt I would have been recommended to do so by the gentleman doing the head if it wasn't appropriate.

Oh, and Hooli, not bad for someone who was an apparel guy at Scuderia, eh? You never know what people can do til you give them a chance should be that shops moto, but it isn't.
 
yep, confirmed, as long you don't go crazy on it (even nickasil), you're fine with a ball hone. You're just removing the glaze and the only thing that was brought to my attention was that you need to replate if you bore them out, which I don't need to worry about.

Thanks for stressing me out though, guys...
 
you must have played with legos as a child. I credit my mechanical abilities all to legos.
 
originally posted by Joe
Thanks for stressing me out though, guys...
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Sorry:teeth

I was remembering something from way back in the day, and also from dirt-bike building. Finally remembered it was in the Wiseco catalog, so I looked it up. Says this:

Plated cylinders: (includes nickel ceramic coatings (nikasil), chrome, Electrofusion, and boron composite.) If the plated cylinder is in good condition, honing may not be necessary. DO NOT use a ball hone. Use a rigid or brush type diamond hone. Plated cylinders cannot be bored oversize without replating or resleeving.

Granted that's for dirt bikes, which may be different. Dunno, perhaps street bikes come with a thicker coating? Might want to get a second opinion from someone who knows about this stuff. If you do, please share, I can't find much else on the web.
 
already did get a second opinion from the guy doing the head (10 plus years building motors) and he said it's a-okay as long as you're giving it a quick go over to remove the glaze (dejavu).
 
i second that motion! all you wanna do is put a pattern in the cylinder to allow the new rings to seat. if some of the carbon is left at the top of the cylinder, dont worry. its normal. plus, you dont want to spend too much time removing material in this area, as this is where the piston and rings spend quite a bit of time at the top of the stroke. :banana
 
You should do an assembly thread, there is much more to learn putting it together than taking it apart. Good work so far. I should also mention the very best way to hone a cylinder is with a torque plate bolted to the top of the block to replicate the stress that bolting a cylinder head to the block does. IT makes the cylinders out of round so that is the best way to hone it. Of course you can get away with just using the ballhone, especially on a race mule that gets broken down every season. Make sure you stagger the piston rings when you put the pistons back in, they should be 180 degrees apart.
 
I may do that reassembly thread on the way back up, but I always try to take pics so that it makes sense going out and in. Probably wouldn't be a bad idea to take different pics w/ differen descriptions though.

Thanks.

As for the 180 degrees, I could be wrong because I don't have it in front of me, but I think it is 120. After all, 120 X 3 is 360, right? That seems like it'd be more appropriate than the top and bottom ring gap lined up.
 
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yeah thats right but the oil control ring(lowest one) doesn't have a gap like the top 2 do, however 120 is ideal like you said. In reality the rings will move on there own anyway but its still a good practice to set them up that way
 
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Great thread. I just tore apart a 1968 motor this weekend. It was suprisingly similar to your gsxr, modulo pushrods and points.... I'm curious to see if you experience any drama on the assembly.
 
i wondered where that washer was :laughing

2921111-2916517-gsxr_rebuild_011.jpg
 
nice, I didn't think anyone would notice that one! I think it went with the starter cover, but we'll find out in a week or so!
 
continuing...

After you get done honing the cylinders, be sure to put the oil jets back in. Did I mention these should have been pulled out prior to honing?

Also, since you're in there, start cleaning out all the smuck from the honing and try and get something resemebling a clean part again.

2921173-gsxr_rebuild_026.jpg
 
now, while I wait for the parts from Oakland Suzuki (15% off for afmers AND they order every day!!!!!!!), lets do some other off season work. I know the thread was mainly about the motor, but there's plenty of love to go around during the cold months.

When's the last time the suspension was serviced? If you don't know, it probably isn't a bad idea to get it done. I'm 1. lazy and 2. very appreciative of LE, Aftershocks and Catalyst Reaction, so I always try to put money into their buisnesses when I can. Therefore, this work didn't get done by me...

Back from Phil and ready to be pouned on for one more year. Fluid level changed in the forks from 160ish to 135is, so we'll see how that feels (the 160 seems high, but they felt great).

2921177-gsxr_rebuild_029.jpg
 
well, that seemed easy, right? Not so much. If you're going to refresh your suspension, might as well take that time to regrease and clean your linkages and bearings.

I didn't take pics of the whole steering head process, but it's as easy as jacking the bike up on a rear stand, some jacks under the frame sliders, and taking the triples off with the steering stem bolt (they obviously will fall out the bottom at this point).

After that you can check the races for pits or scaring, and regrease the bearings. Everything goes back together smoothly and patiently, and you wait to torque the steering stem nut until the forks are in to be sure everything is straight.

2921180-gsxr_rebuild_030.jpg
 
Do the same with the linkages out back, cleaning, checking, regreasing, etc and your bike will be happier for it. Here's a before:

2921182-gsxr_rebuild_027.jpg
 
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