• There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.

How do you clean chain?

Smilygo

New member
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Location
Sunnyvale
Moto(s)
Guess what
Name
Jay
In the beginning, I used to use Kerosine and switched over to WD40. There are some articles saying WD40 destroys O-rings but I haven't seen it myself yet. Of course, I didn't have to do anything when I was riding BMW but now with SV1000 I am back on chain cleaning. I am curious to know what people use to clean chains.
 
Kerosene and WD 40 will both degrade the O rings, however, Kerosene doesn't degrade them as much and is a better candidate.

I still use WD 40 and a lot of paper towels though
 
Here's what the makers of WD-40 say:
Thank you for contacting our company.

WD-40 is a multi-purpose light lubricating oil. The WD-40 will definitely displace and remove the water or moisture from the chain. It will also act as a rust preventative on any of the metal surfaces. WD-40 will not "dry out" the rubber o-rings. In our testing, we have found no effects on surfaces of rubber or o-rings. Certain types of rubber may swell under prolonged immersion in WD-40 (this refers to long soaking, and not just a spray).

WD-40 is also a cleaner, it will remove grime, dirt, tape, bumper stickers, and oil. It is possible that if there was a special lubricant in the o-rings, the WD-40 could act as a cleaner and remove that oil. The special lubricant would be replaced with WD-40, which is a light lubricating oil. I'm sure there are more superior, heavy duty (and costly) chain lubes on the market. There are a lot of people that recommend using WD-40 on their chains. Perhaps some experimenting with WD-40 as a water remover and rust preventative, followed by a heavier chain lube, would fit your needs. The bottom line is WD-40 will not harm your o-rings, but it could remove a lubricant that was previously applied to the chain.
I used to use kerosene as well but, got lazy and just WD-40 'em and wipe 'em off real well with a rag. Chain seems to last just as long either way for me e.g. about as long as the sprockets.
 
1 gallon of Kerosene: $10. Put bike on stand, start and click into 1st gear, let rear wheel rotate. Dribble a few tbsp of kerosene onto chain. Kill engine, put into neutral, wipe off chain with rag. Repeat if the chain is really dirty. Lube with heavy-weight gear oil ($9/qt), per mfg recommendation.
 
I like WD40 when it comes to cleaning gunky chains as it cuts thru the gunk pretty good. But I don't think much of WD40 as a lubricant.

So my technique is WD40 first, wipe with a rag, then apply chain lube and wipe with a rag.
 
I am glad I am not the only uses WD40. It works pretty well (Yeh, a lot of paper towels). I read this article on the Webbike world or something and started wondering:

----------------------------------------------------------
From "R.S." sent us some interesting information on the use of WD-40 on motorcycle chains:

"Saw your article on using WD-40 for chains and you asked for evidence of potential harm that WD-40 can do, so am attaching a photo. This photo is of a bearing surface from an airplane.



This is a ball and races in a sealed bearing that had been subjected to regular use of WD-40 for a year or two. The grease was NOT cleaned out before taking this photo - there simply is no grease and the brownish tint is really rust.

The ball had grooves (visible) and was shaped like a potato chip. The races had not evenly worn (see sectioned edge) and were rutted in spots, although neither shows too well.

We learned that WD-40 is really good for the light uses that it was intended for and that needs to be emphasized. However, it is largely a penetrant, which will do just that!

Once it penetrates into the sealed area, it dissolves the petroleum out of the grease, leaving the clay binders. What's left in the bearing is essentially dirt that cakes up, causing the balls to skid. Without the petroleum, the bearing will also rust.

The reason that kerosene and diesel fuel are still favorites and recommended by the chain people is that while both can be penetrants, they are a thicker petroleum and just what the O-rings are trying to seal against.

Of course, gasoline cleans about the same, but with thinner viscosity and better penetrating power. In all honesty, I still use gas to clean (I'm lazy), but don't beat the bike often, regularly measure for linkage stretch and sprocket wear, and re-lube on every other tank of gas."

Moral of the story is to not use WD-40 for cleaning motorcycle chains. Does anyone know of a better product that is specifically designed for cleaning a motorcycle chain without dissolving the grease behind the O-rings?

NOTE: See the wBW article "Motorcycle Chain Cleaners Redux" for many comments on the WD-40 issue and lubricating motorcycle chains.
-------------------------------------------------------------------

I guess I will keep using WD40. Kerosine is good but I don't want to keep it in my garage.
 
1 gallon of Kerosene: $10. Put bike on stand, start and click into 1st gear, let rear wheel rotate. Dribble a few tbsp of kerosene onto chain. Kill engine, put into neutral, wipe off chain with rag. Repeat if the chain is really dirty. Lube with heavy-weight gear oil ($9/qt), per mfg recommendation.

BAD PRACTICE Oh, man! Don't ever suggest cleaning the chain with the bike in gear, engine running. Somebody might take you seriously and lose a finger or a hand.
 
BAD PRACTICE Oh, man! Don't ever suggest cleaning the chain with the bike in gear, engine running. Somebody might take you seriously and lose a finger or a hand.

He is only suggesting the bike be in gear for a dribbling of a tbsp of kerosene, not a hand on action

I personally clean my chain with wd40 and then lube it with a chain wax (usually maxima).
 
TrueFader said:
He is only suggesting the bike be in gear for a dribbling of a tbsp of kerosene, not a hand on action.

Still a VERY BAD idea (graphic image!). The engine should be off and the rear wheel turned by hand. Period.

Kerosene and WD 40 will both degrade the O rings.

spit.gif


Um, NO.
 
Last edited:
I used to clean tire marks off of side panels with WD-40. It was the best cleaner for that, so I can't believe it doesn't degrade the o-ring in some way. Maybe it's just not that noticeable in the case of a chain?

A good experiment would be to take an o-ring (from a chain) and soak it in WD-40 and see if it swells up, then take it out to dry and see if it hardens.

O-ring quality or type may matter also. Maybe the chain o-rings are resistant or of a different quality than your standard rubber o-ring?
 
A good experiment would be to take an o-ring (from a chain) and soak it in WD-40 and see if it swells up, then take it out to dry and see if it hardens.

O-ring quality or type may matter also. Maybe the chain o-rings are resistant or of a different quality than your standard rubber o-ring?

Tell what will eat up o-rings posthaste. Brake cleaner.
 
Still a VERY BAD idea (graphic image!). The engine should be off and the rear wheel turned by hand. Period.

I apply both the kerosene cleaner and gear oil lube with the engine running in 1st gear. My hands don't get anywhere near the chain. Wiping down with the rag is done in neutral, engine off. I've had exactly one close call out of all the times I've cleaned my chain, and that was while wiping it down, because I was rotating the wheel forwards and the rag got caught in the chain, pulling my hand back towards the sprocket. A much more useful safey tip is: while wiping down the chain, always rotate *away* from the rear sprocket.
 
BAD PRACTICE Oh, man! Don't ever suggest cleaning the chain with the bike in gear, engine running. Somebody might take you seriously and lose a finger or a hand.

Had a guy out on AF1 almost lose his hand that way. Ugly pics of his hand. He got lucky and will mostly heal.

I buy a can of motul chain cleaner, spray, scrub, spray, scrub spray wipe with rags and spray again overnight sit, next am 20 min ride to heat up chain, at starbucks I wax it and let it sit for 20. Have coffee and ride away.

I clean every about 7000 miles and lube/wax every 600.
 
I apply both the kerosene cleaner and gear oil lube with the engine running in 1st gear. My hands don't get anywhere near the chain. Wiping down with the rag is done in neutral, engine off. I've had exactly one close call out of all the times I've cleaned my chain, and that was while wiping it down, because I was rotating the wheel forwards and the rag got caught in the chain, pulling my hand back towards the sprocket. A much more useful safey tip is: while wiping down the chain, always rotate *away* from the rear sprocket.

facepalm.gif


That was one close call too many. How much do you value your fingers?

Is it really that difficult to manually turn the rear wheel? :dunno

But whatever...
 
facepalm.gif


That was one close call too many. How much do you value your fingers?

Is it really that difficult to manually turn the rear wheel? :dunno

But whatever...

In case you missed it, that close call WAS with the engine off, manually turning the wheel.
 
Motul Chain Cleaner, Maxima Chain Wax, and a lot of shop towels. I like it because it has a nice color to it so you can see where you've already lubed and I don't have any issue with flinging.
 
cleaned/lubed my chain for the first time the other day. I just used some purpose-made chain cleaner and lube and a chain brush I borrowed. Made stuff a lot faster. The lube kind of got everywhere when I took it on the freeway 2 days later but other than a bad smell for a ride it's fine.

Perhaps I'll try a wax next time.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top