• There has been a recent cluster of spammers accessing BARFer accounts and posting spam. To safeguard your account, please consider changing your password. It would be even better to take the additional step of enabling 2 Factor Authentication (2FA) on your BARF account. Read more here.

Ideal RPM Shift?

For good fuel economy shift at low RPM. For maximum acceleration shift at redline. Use your discretion for anything in between.
 
HappyHighwayman said:
I want to program my Trailtech lights to indicate when to shift.
Click to expand...

I suggest programming the red light at redline, and the amber one so you can shift before you hit red. If redline is as high as 10k (what you said) or 11k (what they say here), I think you'll shift up to get off the downslope of the power curve before you hit redline anyway.

Didn't realize the XJ600 redline was that high (never having seen the stock tach). I think I programmed the amber light on my Vapor at 8500RPM and the red one at 9000RPM. I think someone told me it had a 9k redline, but it sounds like that number was conservative.

I don't remember the RPM number exactly but I don't think those bikes charge the battery below maybe 4 or 5 thousand RPM. You can check with a voltmeter.

If you always shift at 4500 you're not gonna love that bike.

I don't know how yours feels, but I think mine vibrates less on the freeway at higher RPMs. For example, 4th or 5th is smoother than 6th at 65MPH.
 
Last edited:
Yeah the Redline is 10k-11k. I've been shifting between 5k-6k.

I haven't gone on the freeway yet. I find the bike a bit hard to accelerate smoothly in first gear, better in 2nd, by the time I hit 3rd it's silk. I got new chain and sprockets and tires and brake pads so it feels pretty good.
 
afm199 said:
5467.904 rpm, on warm days 5428.258
Click to expand...

Squidly McSmearstain said:
Remember to adjust by .0325798 RPM per .000025687 difference in average pug gap (averaging across all 4 cylinders, but weighting the inside two cylinders 2.48% higher in calculating the average).
Click to expand...

:laughing Asshats!!!

Just stick with doing it by feel. Forget shift lights. Who needs one for the street anyway? If your eyes and attention are where they're supposed to be, the only time you would even really be able to pick it up visually would be in more of a tuck position. And you won't be doing much of that on the street.
 
Zippy994 said:
If your eyes and attention are where they're supposed to be, the only time you would even really be able to pick it up visually would be in more of a tuck position.
Click to expand...
Not true. It's an upright bike, and while the Trailtech Vapor tach is hard to read without giving it too much of my attention, the shift lights are easy to see while riding.
 
What the hell is a 'shift light?'

AbsolutEnduser said:
so if you find youself always shifting at 4000rpm that means you need only 25hp in your everyday life. Which I think is the case. In that case you really should've bought a 250 Ninja, b/c it also makes 25hp. :p
Click to expand...
:ninjaryde bruum bruum... bruuuuuuuummmmmmmmm....

afm199 said:
I was using the LaPlace Vernier formula weighting and integrating the differential across the entire range of output, leavin out of course, the minimal mechanical distortion due to retrograde buffering.
Click to expand...
This man knows many buzzwords. This means he is smart. Listen to him.
 
Jeez your like asking to get abused by asking a question like that... :facepalm

It differs with all bikes and what your trying to accomplish. Lower RPM's generally get better gas mileage and higher rpm's give you more power. If your just cruising around just stay low rpm there is no point in letting it go to red-line if your barely accelerating. You don't wanna be in first at 14,000 rpms cruising at 30mph... shift up till your engine doesn't sound like its about to blow up?

It's something you have to feel out yourself, there is no right answer.

Actually there is:
Speed to the 2.334231th power multiplied by your fuel octane, divided by the number links in your chain. Finally just find the square root and you have the number that you divide by how fast you wanna go. Pretty straight forward.:thumbup
 
HappyHighwayman said:
I find I barely can get into 4th gear in the city. I use 2-3 mostly. I just don't need that speed for puttering around SF.
Click to expand...

Dunno if you were replying directly to me but, FWIW, you can also use charts to see what the minimum RPM is for a shift that still leaves you with whatever hp & torque you want. 'Course this is going to be pretty close to what the manual would say and really it just takes some time learning how your bike in particular behaves when you shift at various points.
 
afm199 said:
5467.904 rpm, on warm days 5428.258
Click to expand...

Squidly McSmearstain said:
Remember to adjust by .0325798 RPM per .000025687 difference in average pug gap (averaging across all 4 cylinders, but weighting the inside two cylinders 2.48% higher in calculating the average).
Click to expand...

afm199 said:
I was using the LaPlace Vernier formula weighting and integrating the differential across the entire range of output, leavin out of course, the minimal mechanical distortion due to retrograde buffering.
Click to expand...

planegray said:
:laughing


YOu guys are messed up !

PLUS: you didn't include the "stiffy factor"> bulge in pants automatically adds 1K rpm to shift point
Click to expand...

one must also include the natural variation in earth associated constants such as the pull of gravity, the coriolis effect, and any atmospheric humidity variations as one moves through various zip codes and their impact on tangential oil spray velocity in the crank case. presence or absence of strong electromagnetic sun-earth interactions as well as the position of the moon relative to one's current location also play a significant role. to ignore any of these factors is almost as dangerous as running car oil in your motorcycle or putting the wrong color air in your tires.

Zippy994 said:
:laughing Asshats!!!

Just stick with doing it by feel. Forget shift lights. Who needs one for the street anyway? If your eyes and attention are where they're supposed to be, the only time you would even really be able to pick it up visually would be in more of a tuck position. And you won't be doing much of that on the street.
Click to expand...

post reported for name calling, enjoy your spepension
 
auntiebling said:
one must also include the natural variation in earth associated constants such as the pull of gravity, the coriolis effect, and any atmospheric humidity variations as one moves through various zip codes and their impact on tangential oil spray velocity in the crank case.
Click to expand...

Does BMW make a tool for that?
 
AbsolutEnduser said:
"Shift lights" are things that are known to people who drive or ride, instead of doing saber rattling on online forums. :twofinger
Click to expand...

Yeah, I know cages like Saturn and Chevy have these stupidly annoying lights that go off constantly at the wrong time... I just thought motorcyclists were supposed to have a bit more 'natural sense' about these things. My shift 'light' is called the 'tach' or perhaps, 'listening to and feeling the engine.'
 
auntiebling said:
one must also include the natural variation in earth associated constants such as the pull of gravity, the coriolis effect, and any atmospheric humidity variations as one moves through various zip codes and their impact on tangential oil spray velocity in the crank case. presence or absence of strong electromagnetic sun-earth interactions as well as the position of the moon relative to one's current location also play a significant role. to ignore any of these factors is almost as dangerous as running car oil in your motorcycle or putting the wrong color air in your tires.
Click to expand...

You forgot the local radio station's number of the day, and your horoscope.
 
auntiebling said:
beleive it or not, it's actually a Yugo derived spec, and the adjustment tool is made from Unobtanium with gold, plutonium, and helimum as alloying elements
Click to expand...

Stupid thing is left-handed though :x
 
Apply constant pressure to the shifter and when your bike bounces the rev limiter it will slip right into the next gear. Bam! Done.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top