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It's The Journey That Transforms

Thanks, Kurt, for bringing us along your journey. :Popcorn. Moving the body frees the soul. Enjoy the ride, adventure, and the destination wherever that brings you. :ride
 
Fun, fun!!! Am enjoying following this. Is a sad week in our home as we lost family to Covid a few hours ago. Life is made up of journeys of all kinds… yours is a good one and a welcome distraction. Carry on!
 
Yes, this is a very nice thread. Thanks for sharing.
 
Great write up. I'm a Bunk A Biker host and we've had some interesting travelers stay with us. Its always cool to hear about people's adventures.

Mad
 
Thanks to all for the kind words.

awesome ride report is awesome! :hail

love that Moto Guzzi … :thumbup

“We are not converted only once in our lives but many times and this endless series of conversions and inner revolutions leads to our transformation.”
Thomas Merton

:ride

That Merton quote goes right to the heart of the matter. Thank you!

John, I thought of you from time to time on this journey. First, because I often thought this trip could have easily and comfortably been done on a KLR. I never went all that fast, and mainly was interested in absorbing the experience, and a KLR is a great platform for that.

Second, because I had not any moto camping in years (decades), and I was thinking I could benefit from your experience. On that note, I had planned to camp - in part - to save money. It was WAY better than that. I loved my evenings in camp!

Day 9 map

On paper (pixels?) this day doesn't look all that exciting. East of the Rockies, deep into the Great Plains, how exciting could it be? Well, on one level, not exciting at all, but on another it was exactly what I needed.

If you look at the map, it appears that I got quite the tour of the world, passing through Harlem, Malta, and Glasgow. :teeth I found an old-school, locally owned cafe in Glasgow, but they were fresh out of haggis. ;) It was very satisfying to sit among the locals in the cafe on Sunday morning, taking it all in.

Great Plains also means great trains. Out here that trains are often incredibly long. Seeing one that was stopped, I used my trip odometer to estimate its length, looking at mileage when I passed the front locomotive, and when I passed the last car. It looked like 1-1/2 miles, and I'm pretty sure it wasn't the longest I saw.

There is a long BNSF route that parallels US 2, so trains were my frequent companion. Sometimes, as far ahead as I could see in front of me, and as far as I could see through my mirrors behind me, there would be no cars in sight. During one of those stretches I saw a big train coming my way, and thinking the crew might be as bored as I was, I gave them a wave as I passed, and they responded with a long blast on the air horn. Human connection makes life rich. :)

Throughout the section of US 2 I was riding, it was just good old two-lane, so the strains of Pure Prairie League's Two Lane Highway were running through my head.

[YOUTUBE]ioMQent_Ca0[/YOUTUBE]

So it was only natural when one of the trains I was passing had a few cars from Kansas City Southern in it that this should come to mind. :teeth

[YOUTUBE]zo1dKSVOdlE[/YOUTUBE]

One thing I was reminded of from family trips as kids were the harvesting contractors on the road. From time to time I'd encounter a semi hauling a combine to their next field. The brand I most commonly remember from childhood was called Gleaners, and while I still saw some of those, the most common this time were Case IH combines.

Another thing I noticed as I rode through the wheat field of eastern Montana was that something kept hitting my boots. Then it dawned on me. Grasshoppers! Grasshoppers were jumping up as the bike passed them, and splattering themselves against me. My wheels collected a few too.

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Montana was so relaxing to ride through. The weather was great. Highs around 80 or so. Big puffy clouds scattered throughout the sky, so hitting North Dakota was a bit of a shock. Around the border, Hwy 2 became a divided highway, and I approached the City of Williston. Williston is in the Bakken Formation, and has been the site of a great deal of oil production for some time now. It has all the signs of a boomtown. New everything. Lots of temporary housing. Lots of heavy equipment. It was kind of jarring.

I stopped at a warehouse grocery store on the eastern outskirts to get some supplies for a campground supper, and in the parking lot I met the cyclops of my journey, because all good hero's journeys need a cyclops! Mine was a one eyed cattle rancher who gave me the rundown on the Williston boom and the effect it's had on the area. He was a fascinating guy, and added spice to the day.

Before it got too late, I began using my phone to find a campground. Google Maps sent me many miles on dirt roads to a little lake that was supposed to have a municipal campground. One pit toilet a long way from the camping. Few picnic tables. No potable water. No thanks.

I kept going until I got to another municipal campground outside of Burlington, ND. Even the road to get to it was interesting. The RV side was full, and it was rockin', but the tent side was sparsely populated, and I enjoyed a pleasant night there, even if the trains woke me up occasionally.

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To be continued.
 
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Fun, fun!!! Am enjoying following this. Is a sad week in our home as we lost family to Covid a few hours ago. Life is made up of journeys of all kinds… yours is a good one and a welcome distraction. Carry on!

So sorry for your loss. That is tragic and yet you have strength and a good outlook. :gsxrgrl May you and yours steer this passage clear...good days ahead.
 
Thanks for sharing your adventures Kurt!

Safe Travels...:thumbup:ride
 
Thanks for sharing your adventures Kurt!

Safe Travels...:thumbup:ride

Thank you! Nice to see you (virtually).

Day 10 map



Not a ton of miles today compared to those prior. Maybe I was getting tired. Another explanation is that I had a "mechanical" on this day that took a little while to remedy. More on that later.

The day started with construction crews working around the park where I had been trying to sleep. Apparently there had been a significant flood there a few years back, and a flood control project was underway.

A guy came by on a big lawn mower as I was packing up, and he stopped to chat. It turns out it was the head of the town's parks department. I guess in small towns you do whatever job is required. Amy Poehler mowing the lawn. :teeth Very nice guy, and he refunded me my camping fee because not of the facilities were operating because of the construction project. Yay for small town nice!

Because I got going in a hurry, I didn't really have a proper breakfast in camp, so I was on the hunt for a small town diner once again. I pulled off the highway onto the main street of a town called Granville, ND to find such a diner. :party Eggs, bacon, hash browns, and toast filled the bill, combined with friendly curiosity from local farmers having coffee, the two wait staff, and three local sheriff's deputies. We all had a grand old time on a beautiful summer morning, and even though I had just had breakfast, I had to ask my standard question in small town cafes, "Do you have pie?" :teeth Yes, yes they did! Rhubarb to be exact! :party

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Continuing east from Granville, you could reasonably expect that North Dakota wouldn't be all that interesting, and on one level that's absolutely true. On another level, it's misleading at best. Maybe it was the weather (sunny and about 75), or maybe it was my mood, but I was struck by the beauty of the prairie. Green and lush with lots of lakes. Sun glinting off of wetlands. Productive looking farms. Decent small towns. I can see why the Plains Indians loved the area, and I can see why the European settlers wanted it for farming. With that thought about the early settlers in mind, I looked off in the distance and saw this old Lutheran church rising out of the prairie. It was so striking, I had to go take a picture. There would be others on subsequent days.

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Back cruising east on Hwy 2, I suffered what turned out to be the only "mechanical" of the trip. I was wearing a Scorpion modular adventure helmet, and the hinge that anchors the face shield and the and the peak has a design weakness.

a588570f-7b6e-4fc9-bfa4-fa7a533104dd.jpg


With use, the threaded fastener on the lefthand side backs out. I knew this, but didn't get around to putting Loctite on it before I left home. I tightened it up a couple of days before, but with use it came loose again without me noticing. So, going down the highway, the fastener made its bid for freedom, and my shield and the peak started flopping around. Not good. Scorpion uses a custom fastener for this app that is pretty to look at, and fortunately it's made with standard metric threaded dimensions. There was no way I was going to find the one I lost, and I was probably miles and miles from anyplace that would have them in stock, but I knew that if could find a hardware store with a decent selection of fasteners that I could bodge something together. Grand Forks had an Ace Hardware with just such a selection, and I was able to put something together after a couple of tries. Not all that pretty, but at least it was all in stainless.

Back on the road, I crossed into Minnesota. It didn't happen immediately, but over time I saw more and more trees, and even more lakes than in eastern North Dakota. Another observation is that just like in other states, some towns look like crap, and others look like nice places to live. Crookston, MN is one of the latter. Really nice looking town. Maybe because it's a college town, and that keeps some money coming into the local economy. :dunno

It was time for a motel for a shower, shave, and to do some laundry. The highest ranked one on Google turned out to be full, so I headed to a Best Western and called it a day. It gave me a chance to wash some clothes, sit in the Jacuzzi, and make a video.

[YOUTUBE]V-jFdqxwaeo[/YOUTUBE]

To be continued.
 
Kurt, wow! Thanks so much. Your inclusion of videos takes sharing the trip to a whole new level. Watching this I was thinking, man he's been riding all day and has to be dying to take a shower and find dinner, yet he is so energized by the experience he can't help sharing the joy with us. The ride report bar has been raised!

-Bill
 
Kurt, wow! Thanks so much. Your inclusion of videos takes sharing the trip to a whole new level. Watching this I was thinking, man he's been riding all day and has to be dying to take a shower and find dinner, yet he is so energized by the experience he can't help sharing the joy with us. The ride report bar has been raised!

-Bill

Bill, that's high praise indeed considering the quality of your ride reports. Thank you!
 
When I was a kid, I wouldn't go near Rhubarb pie, now it's like a delicacy for me :laughing
Enjoy
 
When I was a kid, I wouldn't go near Rhubarb pie, now it's like a delicacy for me :laughing
Enjoy

I was raised on rhubarb. It's a comfort food for me. :laughing
 
Day 11 map

Okay, my fatigue must have been mounting because this was another low mileage day, though there was a bit more faffing around than the map shows. Forecast for the day was scattered showers. I never got more than a few drops, but it threatened throughout the day.

I was still trying to stick to two-lane, and I wanted to go south, and that meant vectoring myself to the west side of the Twin Cities. One thing I've noticed is that major population areas have a huge gravitational pull. The roads are designed to ease transport into, around, and through population areas, and once you get caught up in the freeway system, you will be drawn towards more and more dense traffic. My goal was to avoid that. That meant whenever I got to a freeway, that I wanted to get off of it as soon as possible to avoid being sucked in.

My first stop of the day was for a fill-up and a cup of coffee at a little gas station / convenience store at a crossroads. Sitting on the bench savoring the warmth and bitterness of a fresh cup, I saw an older guy walking in (note: "old" or "older" means anyone who looks to me like they might have been born at least a year before me, and "young" or "younger" means anyone who looks like they might be younger than me - it's my story, so those are my definitions. :twofinger ). A few minutes he came back out with an enormous ice cream cone. He turned towards me and said, "I can eat ice cream going down the road, and you can't! He cackled at his own insult.

I responded, "Hey, where's that Minnesota nice I keep hearing about?"

"It's a myth!", he cackled again, climbed in his SUV and took off. :laughing

I looked at Google Maps on my phone before mounting up, and my next destination became obvious. I had to go find my crew!

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With no crew in sight, the next milestone was my first of several crossings of the Mississippi in Charles Lindbergh's hometown.

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Not quite as wide as further south, but still pretty wide by western standards. The park by the river was experiencing the effect of a mayfly hatch. I hadn't seen any in years.

A brief sidebar here on the topic of rivers. One of the defining characteristics of inland British Columbia, particularly as you go north are the rivers. Holy smokes, BC has some HUGE rivers. I forgot to post about that earlier.

I guess that I was very much in a meandering frame of mind today, and just didn't make a ton of progress. In mid-afternoon I wandered into another pretty town called Hutchinson, MN. Those Minnesotans are so nice that they named a whole town after Ian! ;) I spied another local restaurant, and stopped for lunch. I don't remember what I had for (late) lunch other than it was on their specials menu. Obviously, I had to ask about pie for dessert. Sadly, no rhubarb. :( Blueberry would have to do! The waitress committed a great pie faux pas! Without asking, she topped my pie with whipped cream. No, just no. Sure, whipped cream is great on pumpkin pie, but don't put it on my pie without asking first. I very pointedly scraped it off.

Just south of Hutchinson I spied a county park to the side of the highway with a sign showing camping, and figured I could stop early that day. After getting checked in, I wandered over to the tenting section. This was a Tuesday (I think), and the tent section was empty except for me. There were a bunch of RV's on the other side of the park, but I couldn't really hear them from where I was.

I had forgotten that camping in the Midwest could feel like camping in a city park. Neatly mown grass. Lots of trees. Picnic tables. Fire rings. And almost no gravel anywhere. I imagine it's not wild enough for some folks, but I like it. I set up camp, made myself some dinner, sat in my camp chair, and began to read on my tablet.

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As the evening closed in, the feeling was dreamlike. Quiet, very beautiful, everything moving slowly. The day users had left the lake, and the RV'ers were more than 100 yards off on the other side of the bathrooms. I was sitting in my chair admiring the Maxfield Parrish clouds, and feeling gratitude for everything that had brought me to that place at that moment.

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And then.... An ominous breeze began to pick up, and I thought, "Why does this not feel good?" As the wind picked up more, I could hear a roar coming from the other side of the park, and when I stood up I could see a wall of rain advancing towards me. I swept everything on the table into my arms and dove into the tent just as the first fat drops began to splatter all around me. Zipping the rain-fly, then the tent shut, the staccato sound of rain drops became a steady roar on the tent. Unbelievably loud! I could hardly hear myself think. And then there was the thunder. A few distant rumbles, then nearer cracks, then the thunder became a constant roar with no ability to hear distinct claps. For at least fifteen minutes there was no break in the noise, just this overwhelming roar of heavy rain and constant thunder. The wind was beating the tent, with the leading edge of the tent straining against the stakes to pull up and take flight!

I considered my options. There were trees all around me, any of which was likely to attract lightning before my tent would. I wasn't too close the base of any of the trees, but was briefly concerned with whether the wind might bring a limb down on top of me. I thought about heading for the bathroom, but a hundred yards in this kind of downpour seemed like a bad idea, so I just decided to ride it out. It was so loud, and there was so much sensory overload that I couldn't really concentrate enough to read. Oddly, my reaction was simply to fall asleep, and I slept surprisingly well, waking up only once during the night.

To be continued.
 
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I had forgotten that camping in the Midwest could feel like camping in a city park. Neatly mown grass. Lots of trees. Picnic tables. Fire rings. And almost no gravel anywhere. As the evening closed in, the feeling was dreamlike.

I imagine it's not wild enough for some folks, but I like it.

:thumbup

"The Wood Between the Worlds!" :afm199:gsxrgrl
 
Thanks, John. :cool

Day 12 map

After that wild storm the night before, the skies were rinsed clean and clear, and I began to head towards my next major destination, the Driftless Area, an area not covered by ice during the last ice age, so it's geography/topography is substantially different from the surrounding area. For instance, it's hilly, and for the most part the streams run clear, meaning that it's one of the few places in the Midwest where you can fish for trout. It's also one of the few place you can go outdoor rock climbing. That's just how different it is.

When I was a kid, we used to go camping up this way, and I remember celebrating one of my birthdays camping in the Yellow River State Forest, so that became my goal for the day. The mileage on the map is substantially understated since I spent much of the day exploring towns and villages in the area that I remembered from childhood.

My first stop of the day was to photograph another one of the churches rising out of the prairie. This one still in Minnesota.

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My next stop of the day was Cresco, IA, the hometown of a friend. Cresco is right at the edge of the Driftless, and while passing through I got an overwhelming desire for a root beer float. Hey, it was late July in Iowa!

From Cresco I headed to Decorah. Decorah is a college town and is pretty vibrant. It's fully in the Driftless. I stopped in the local HyVee to get some supplies for dinner, including a couple of cans of beer from a brewer in Cedar Rapids called Lion Bridge. It was good. Then I set out for the Yellow River State Forest to find a campsite. I had recalled that the campground was called Paint Creek, but when I got there I found there was a "Little" and a "Big" Paint Creek Campground, so I had to ride through both of them to figure out which was the right one. It turned out to be the big version. The cool part was that going through the little one there were two water crossings! :party They were paved, and as you might expect they were slicker than deer guts on a doorknob! No crashes, through four crossings. :ride

After scoping a campsite, I rode around to see some of the sights, including riding up and down a section of the Great River Road. This area doesn't exactly look like what most folks think of when they think of Iowa.

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Linked curves? In Iowa?!? :wow

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I grabbed something to drink and a snack in Marquette, IA and watched the trains and the barges go past before heading back to camp. There I settled down to let the evening pass, savoring those two beers, reading a book, listening to the birds, and generally enjoying life. My end of the campground had one young couple camping with their dogs. Others were at the far end, and it was delightfully quiet. Not long after this picture was taken, the fireflies came out to put on a show for me, a nice way to end the day.

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One more photo, and a commentary of gas that should probably be its own post. Gas prices were falling over the course of the trip, and I took the picture below because some guy on Twitter was asking for photos of gas at less than $4/gallon. This photo was taken in Decorah, but I had been seeing this price since I had entered Minnesota a couple of day sooner.

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When I got into BC I noticed that many pumps had four buttons and two hoses. The second hose wasn't for diesel, it was for what some places called "clear" 91 octane gas, meaning that there was no ethanol in it. The other hose was fed by the usual three buttons: 87, 89, and 91, all E10. Not all gas stations had this, but it wasn't hard to find. This continued when I returned to the States in Montana, and I saw it until I got to Nebraska where finding any kind of 91 octane was a challenge. Yeah, the Goose needs the high test stuff. I'll cover the Nebraska stuff later, as if one needed another reason to want to get out of Nebraska.

To be continued.
 
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When I awoke in the morning, there wasn't a cloud in the sky. There hadn't been any before I went to bed either, but it had rained pretty hard overnight. I can't complain. At least I wasn't riding in it. :cool

Day 13 map


This is another day when the map mileage substantially understates the actual mileage because of all the messing about I did.

I started the morning by heading to a place called Effigy Mounds, the site of a huge native American burial site comprised of massive mounds that are artworks in and of themselves, and the final resting place of many who were part of a large, stable civilization in the upper Mississippi River valley. Visiting this place was another family memory for me. Somewhere in my scrapbooks is a photo my dad took of me looking down at the Mississippi from high on one of the bluffs in the historic site.

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Riding around the area, I noticed how much it looks similar to Yorkshire, another place I love to ride. I've long wondered why Yorkshire feels so familiar to me, and while this area doesn't have the dry stone walls or the ancient villages of Yorkshire, the topography and the stone is similar. Also, this area is a great place to see contour farming being practiced. I find it rather beautiful.

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Then I crossed into Wisconsin from McGregor to Prairie Du Chien. For those of you who've been around motorcycles awhile, it's worth pointing out that Peter Egan lives in the area of the Driftless, and a couple of decades back he returned there from SoCal. I hope to help you understand why.

I was following Wisconsin 60 along the Wisconsin river, which was nice enough, but not quite what I was hoping to find. One thing I kept noticing were the county "alphabet" roads, and wondering where they all went. When I saw one that had a winery sign, I took the opportunity to explore it. This alphabet road in particular wasn't all that long, but it was BIG fun! Who knew!?! They have goat trails in Wisconsin! :ride Oh man, I'm going to have to come back here!

BTW, the minor roads can go from paved to gravel, and back again. Gravel is even more prevalent on the Iowa side. It would be great country for a sumo!

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When I got to the winery, the sign showing hours indicated that they wouldn't be open yet, but the sign on the door said they were, so I walked in. They opened for me. Wild Hills Winery is a lovely place, the tasting was free(!), and I found the things I was looking for.

A shot of one of the vineyards.

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One of the wines. :teeth

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I'll continue day 13 a little later.
 
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Goat Trails in Wisconsin? say hello to Peter Egan for me :thumbup
 
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Thanks again for the great write up and photos. Very enjoyable read.
 
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