Lubing chain 2001 suzuki bandit 600 question.

[cozy]

So today I am rereading my manual for my 2001 suzuki bandit 600, and it says in specs to use "heavy motor oil ( 40 or 50 weight ) to lube the drive chain.

For some reason ( i think i read somewhere previously to use it ? ) I've been using 80w-90 gear oil in a oil can to lube my chain periodically.

Would that be a problem using the different oils? Looking in Amazon to order some more oil, most of what Im seeing is 75-90, 80-90..oils for gear oil?

Recommendations?


And for engine oil I'm going to try a different brand, the Valvoline 4-Stroke Motorcycle Full Synthetic SAE 10W-40 Motor Oil when replacing it this week. Since the oil I used before is out of stock and I found a good deal for the valvoline.
The manual just says to use SAE10w-40, but does not specify nonsynthetic, semi-synthetic or full synthetic oil.

Added photo of engine oil I previously used in most recent oil change.

 

[bmwbob51]

No! Thinner oils just get on the wheel faster is all.

 

[motomania2007]

So today I am rereading my manual for my 2001 suzuki bandit 600, and it says in specs to use "heavy motor oil ( 40 or 50 weight ) to lube the drive chain.

For some reason ( i think i read somewhere previously to use it ? ) I've been using 80w-90 gear oil in a oil can to lube my chain periodically.

Would that be a problem using the different oils? Looking in Amazon to order some more oil, most of what Im seeing is 75-90, 80-90..oils for gear oil?

Recommendations?


And for engine oil I'm going to try a different brand, the Valvoline 4-Stroke Motorcycle Full Synthetic SAE 10W-40 Motor Oil when replacing it this week. Since the oil I used before is out of stock and I found a good deal for the valvoline.
The manual just says to use SAE10w-40, but does not specify nonsynthetic, semi-synthetic or full synthetic oil.

Added photo of engine oil I previously used in most recent oil change.

regarding engine oil, Look in the manual, it will have a 2 digit code like SE or something in the specified oil. Then buy 10/40w oil with the same 2 digit code and it does not matter whether you get synthetic or not, however, synthetic is usually better.

Gear oil is fine for chain lube, it just fling off easier than chain lube.

Does the chain have o-rings between the outer plates and the pivots? If it does, I would use decent chain lube.

Chain maintenance is all about keeping it clean and lubed and adjusted. What lube you choose is mostly irrelevant.

 

[cozy]

No! Thinner oils just get on the wheel faster is all.

No, it's not a problem to use either 80w-90 or any of the options below for lubing my chain? Or no dont use them, use something else? Obviously significant differences in price among them.


Valvoline High Performance SAE 85W-140 Gear Oil 1 QT $5.82 -
https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-85...cfc80&pd_rd_wg=5pjJ3&pd_rd_i=B0002KLBWO&psc=1


Valvoline SynPower SAE 75W-90 Full Synthetic Gear Oil 1 QT $12.98 -
https://www.amazon.com/Valvoline-Sy...cfc80&pd_rd_wg=5pjJ3&pd_rd_i=B002HQGCVG&psc=1

Lucas Oil 10121 Synthetic SAE 75W-140 Gear Oil, Red, 1 Quart (32 Ounces) $17.04 -
https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-LU...cfc80&pd_rd_wg=5pjJ3&pd_rd_i=B000BCKWVE&psc=1

 

[cozy]

regarding engine oil, Look in the manual, it will have a 2 digit code like SE or something in the specified oil. Then buy 10/40w oil with the same 2 digit code and it does not matter whether you get synthetic or not, however, synthetic is usually better.

Gear oil is fine for chain lube, it just fling off easier than chain lube.

Does the chain have o-rings between the outer plates and the pivots? If it does, I would use decent chain lube.

Chain maintenance is all about keeping it clean and lubed and adjusted. What lube you choose is mostly irrelevant.

It just says SAE 10w-40 for engine oil.

I also have a can of this chain lube spray in photo. But have been using the oil lately because i thought it may be better for chain lube.

 

[Busy Little Shop]

What we are lubing are external roller and between the roller and the
sprockets (red area in my drawing)... we are not lubing the X rings
nor behind the X rings so any oil applied in that effort is a waste
and will only fling off...

I recommend Motul Chain Paste... squeeze the white grease from the
tube and load the brush... Hold the loaded brush to the inside of the
chain rollers to transfer the white grease... After a couple of spins
of the chain it's lubed like from the Factory... Motul Chain Paste
clings with no flings...

 

[cozy]

What we are lubing are external roller and between the roller and the
sprockets (red area in my drawing)... we are not lubing the X rings
nor behind the X rings so any oil applied in that effort is a waste
and will only fling off...

I recommend Motul Chain Paste... squeeze the white grease from the
tube and load the brush... Hold the loaded brush to the inside of the
chain rollers to transfer the white grease... After a couple of spins
of the chain it's lubed like from the Factory... Motul Chain Paste
clings with no flings...

Thank you for the information. But that is way more time consumption and work for so little material to use ratio than I am willing to do just to lube my chain. And looking at reviews from some others, it seems to be not very reliable for staying on and a major time expense just applying that type of lube to chain.

I prefer oil or spray on varieties. Partly as I will be far more likely to actually lube my chain if it takes the time it does to simply apply spray or oil, than tediously apply a paste.

 

[ScottRNelson]

What we are lubing are external roller and between the roller and the sprockets (red area in my drawing)... we are not lubing the X rings nor behind the X rings so any oil applied in that effort is a waste and will only fling off...

Just when I thought nobody could teach me anything new about lubricating a chain, you make this great post and introduce me to a product that I didn't know existed, but that I now want to try.

I use Kerosene, an old toothbrush, and a rag to get the dirt and junk off of my chain after a few hundred miles of dusty roads. Then I use Dupont Teflon Chain-Saver, because I like how it works.

And thanks for the reminder. Both of my bikes have chains that need attention currently. Cleaning and lubricating chains is probably a good thing to do on a rainy day.

 

[afm199]

Motul makes good products.

If you want a chain to last a long time, you clean and lube it often. That's more important than the lube.

 

[Busy Little Shop]

Thank you for the information.

You're welcome...

 

[Busy Little Shop]

Just when I thought nobody could teach me anything new about lubricating a chain, you make this great post and introduce me to a product that I didn't know existed, but that I now want to try.

I use Kerosene, an old toothbrush, and a rag to get the dirt and junk off of my chain after a few hundred miles of dusty roads. Then I use Dupont Teflon Chain-Saver, because I like how it works.

And thanks for the reminder. Both of my bikes have chains that need attention currently. Cleaning and lubricating chains is probably a good thing to do on a rainy day.

You're welcome... I employ what's handy which is gas to clean chain and sprocket and what little flings on the wheel...

 

[cozy]

Ive noticed some videos ( FortNine for instance ) about motorcycle chain maintanence recommend or show using 80-90 and similiar higher number weight motor oil. Higher than the manual for my Suzuki Bandit which says to use heavy motor oil 40 or 50 weight.

Im also confused which is the 40 or 50 number indicating, as a bottle of gear oil I have already says 80w-90. So why 2 seperate numbers? And 40 or 50 - what?

Will higher number gear oil also work well? Or should I find a 40 or 50 ...gear oil, and if so 40 or 50 - what?

 

[OaklandF4i]

Ive noticed some videos ( FortNine for instance ) about motorcycle chain maintanence recommend or show using 80-90 and similiar higher number weight motor oil. Higher than the manual for my Suzuki Bandit which says to use heavy motor oil 40 or 50 weight.

Im also confused which is the 40 or 50 number indicating, as a bottle of gear oil I have already says 80w-90. So why 2 seperate numbers? And 40 or 50 - what?

Will higher number gear oil also work well? Or should I find a 40 or 50 ...gear oil, and if so 40 or 50 - what?

Gear oil and engine oil are different, hence the drastically different viscosity ratings. If you want to know what the numbers mean, do a google search and you will find something like this.

There is no magic bullet consensus for what is the best oil or other product to use. That includes gear oil vs engine oil, higher vs lower viscosity. Many different approaches to it as well as general maintenance and cleaning... with successful results.

I personally don't use gear or engine oil, and most folks I know don't either, regardless of what the manual says. Chain wax or similar, but that's just my opinion/preference. Pastes are also very good.

You are over thinking this. No matter what oil or product you ultimately choose, the quality and condition of your sprockets, as well as how often and how thoroughly you clean them will have a much higher impact in their life then the product you choose to put on them in most cases.

Pick one in your budget and keep your chain clean.

 

[thedub]

If you want a chain to last a long time, you clean and lube it often. That's more important than the lube.

What is a long time?

That's not just a question for Ernie, but anyone. What do you consider a good/long life for a chain? 10,000 miles? 20, 30?

 

[ScottRNelson]

That's not just a question for Ernie, but anyone. What do you consider a good/long life for a chain? 10,000 miles? 20, 30?

If I manage 10K out of a chain on my XR650L I'm happy. The KTM adventure bikes go more like 20K.

I recently replaced the chain on my XR650L. It wasn't stretched really, and looked fine, but too many of the links were stiff so that they didn't straighten out completely in between the sprockets. If I were a cheaper guy, I'm sure I could have ridden on that chain for many more thousands of miles.

 

[thedub]

...but too many of the links were stiff so that they didn't straighten out completely in between the sprockets.

This isn't an indication the chain is worn, it's just a by-product of an o-ring chain.

 

[ScottRNelson]

This isn't an indication the chain is worn, it's just a by-product of an o-ring chain.

Yeah, but they don't do that when they're new.

 

[Busy Little Shop]

Will higher number gear oil also work well? Or should I find a 40 or 50 ...gear oil, and if so 40 or 50 - what?

Grades 40 50 or 90 will work... the difference being the grades is the amount of
flow... 40 grade flows more than a 50 grade whereas the 90 grade flow the
least... so if you wish an chain lube that flows / flings the least then its a 90 grade...

 

[Busy Little Shop]

What is a long time?

That's not just a question for Ernie, but anyone. What do you consider a good/long life for a chain? 10,000 miles? 20, 30?

My definition of a worn out chain is after the 3rd adjustment because that
is undeniable evidence that the factory installed grease is beginning to
fail to lube the critical pin roller junction hidden behind the X ring... the
length of the chain is growing because of this metal to metal wear... I can
not call a chain serviceable that is grinding metal... it's like saying that a
dry bearing that runs ruff is acceptable... the net result is another 2 to
3% drop in RWHP as more energy is lost grinding metal behind the X
ring...

This is what we don't see behind the X rings... metal to metal wear
every time we adjust the chain that eats into our engine's available
HP... a new pin measures 206.5 and wears down to 205.5 at the 8K mile
mark... looks good to the naked eye but multiply that 1 thousand of an
inch times 108 links and you have 108 thousands of an inch wear or
about the range of the green marks provided by Honda's wear gauge...
202.8 show the very visible wear at the 12K mile mark... the pins are
turning red from extreme heat of grinding dry metal... a chain in this
condition may consume up to 6 to 8% of our RWHP... not to mention it
may snap into and cause case damage...

 

[Busy Little Shop]

This isn't an indication the chain is worn, it's just a by-product of an o-ring chain.

Negative... it is a indication that the factory installed grease is beginning to
fail to lube the critical pin roller junction hidden behind the X ring...
links bind when the factory installed grease drys... this is the start of metal to
metal wear happening right before your eyes...