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Oil Plug Torque Specs, Dry or Wet?

I bought the proper oil filter wrench at the Ducati dealer. Was dirt cheap and likely better than those strap and pliers type I would think.

How would it be better? Only way it could be better is if it was made for a specific oil filter, but then you have a tool that only works on a single vehicle. The wrench works great on both my bikes and my truck... only damages the filter if it was already installed too tight, upon removal
 
I always use a torque wrench, always replace compression washers, and have never had a problem with a plug backing out.

I also have several torque wrenches, including an inch pound for the little stuff.
 
Read something online recommending not to torque the plug with the engine hot. I never considered that before but might be worth noting and giving a few extra minutes to cool down first. Or fill with oil to speed the cooling process before torquing.

Anything less than several hours isn't going to make any difference in the temperature of a water-cooled motorcycle engine. They just have a huge amount of thermal mass.

There is a bunch of error in plug torque ... whether the threads are dry or lubricated, whether the bearing surface under the bolt flange is dry or lubricated, whether you are using a new or used crush washer. Really, don't overthink it.

Hot/cold plug or oil pan isn't going to matter because the plug isn't long enough for the coefficient of expansion to come into play. You'd only have to think about that if you were assembling an engine with an aluminum head and steel head bolts, and even then you don't have to worry about it.
 
How would it be better? Only way it could be better is if it was made for a specific oil filter, but then you have a tool that only works on a single vehicle. The wrench works great on both my bikes and my truck... only damages the filter if it was already installed too tight, upon removal

It was $10. For that price I’ll buy the designated one for each vehicle
 
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