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Post / Chat whores post here (2024)

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Enchanter said:
Not sure what's so crazy about zero toe. The goal was to have the cars (all of mine are zero toe) more responsive to steering input. The added tire life was icing on the cake.
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The tie rods on race cars’ steering links are adjusted to go “toe-out,” which turns the wheel slightly outward. This helps race cars zip back and forth across the track faster but reduces the handling stability of the suspension system.

In consumer street cars, the steering tie rods are tuned so the wheels are “toe-in,” meaning they are pointed slightly inward. This keeps the vehicle moving in a straight line and even helps the suspension system handle bumps and rough roads more smoothly. The toe-in configuration also makes cars easier to drive at higher speeds, such as on motorways.
 
Escape pod said:
The tie rods on race cars’ steering links are adjusted to go “toe-out,” which turns the wheel slightly outward. This helps race cars zip back and forth across the track faster but reduces the handling stability of the suspension system.

In consumer street cars, the steering tie rods are tuned so the wheels are “toe-in,” meaning they are pointed slightly inward. This keeps the vehicle moving in a straight line and even helps the suspension system handle bumps and rough roads more smoothly. The toe-in configuration also makes cars easier to drive at higher speeds, such as on motorways.
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^^^^ pulled from https://www.bbntimes.com/science/the-science-behind-automotive-suspension-systems. Here is a different source that goes into how IN / OUT / and ZERO affect front or rear wheel drive cars: https://suspensionsecrets.co.uk/adjust-tune-toe/

While I'm no professional, I'm familiar with automotive suspension. When I first buy a car / truck, I take it to a specialist to align it to my specs. I never accept the factory specs. After the shop does their work, I drive home and set-up my alignment tools and record my results of their alignment as a sort of calibration of my tools. This way I know what the baseline is when I change things. Once you can equate the number of turns on the tie rod to the amount of toe, you really don't need to measure the alignment anymore. Twist and turn, and off you go.
 
tuxumino said:
this is what giggle AI says

Effects of Toe-in and Toe-out. Toe-in improves straight-line stability and reduces tire wear. However, excessive toe-in can cause the vehicle to feel less responsive in steering. Toe-out enhances steering response but may result in less stable straight-line driving and increased tire wear if overdone.
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Excessive toe in either direction will increase wear.

The last two sentences are why I have zero-toe on all my cars, I don't want either of those two extremes. I only have toe-in on my van, and that's because my wife drives it fairly frequently and zero toe enhances its tendency to sway / wander a bit. It was easy to 'fix' though. Didn't even have to put it on a lift. Crawl under with a couple wrenches and viola!
 
I openly dissed gundam and that alien space frog hasn't said a word. it is evident that Macross is superior

 
Good morning M. The women’s be up!
 
N4teTheGreat said:
My car has always been aligned by shops with lasers because, pew, pew, pew!
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And:
calipergarage.com

Products

3D printed alignment kits that make professional race car alignments possible on even the tightest budgets.
calipergarage.com

All you need are the things above, a jack and jack-stands, and a fairly flat piece of ground. Most can be found cheap used.
 
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