r6 stuck exhaust shims

[Phanuel]

Pulling the upper and lower injector connectors, plug them into dummy injectors. Should be no other changes.

 

[slummy]

Pulling the upper and lower injector connectors, plug them into dummy injectors. Should be no other changes.

like this

 

[slummy]

if they were running water wetter it could turn milky if they used too much of it but the fact that you have tight shims and milky coolant points to overheating / blown head gasket

i wonder if this could be caused from disabling one of the cylinders? if done incorrectly? how was the bike crippled?

Crip'd by injectors.

3 intake values were legit tight.

2 of the 3 exhaust valves i'm trying to swap are at the cusp of tight spec.

it is a water wetter bike. I added some, mixed to about the right color. I don't know what was in there, except that it wasn't day-glow green.

 

[RickM]

Milky coolant could be bad water pump seals. But usually that results in a leak by the "tell-tale drip hole". I think in some rare cases that hole can be blocked and allow the fluids to mix instead of leaking out. Long shot only. How does your oil look?

 

[slummy]

Milky coolant could be bad water pump seals. But usually that results in a leak by the "tell-tale drip hole". I think in some rare cases that hole can be blocked and allow the fluids to mix instead of leaking out. Long shot only. How does your oil look?

I have not dropped the oil yet since last use. At this point, i won't be warming up the motor before draining

However, the oil did get changed at least 15x last year, and it always looked good. I'm not sure how long it would take for the coolant to get milky (question), but i changed oil right before R7 afm friday/sat/sun (and it looked fine).

Bike ran good all year. On-board power computations didn't show a drop.

 

[slummy]

ok -- have time to dig in. 3 day weekend and gf out of town !!!

dropped oil. normal. 3 days on it, looks like it should -- light and nothing milky.

leakdown is pretty good for 2006 racebike: 12-8-8-10. Note that #4 is the previous cripple; but #1 looks like better candidate.

My plan at this point is:
drop engine
remove head
remove all exhaust shims
-- figure out how/why they got stuck
pressure check head (outsourced)
reassemble with new head gasket
replace oil cooler seals
new gaskets for re-assemble (e.g. valve cover, cam-chain, water pump, ...)
flush radiator and cooling system
and yeah, adjust valves.

hopefully that takes of it. any thoughts? forgetting anything?

ty, O

 

[Phanuel]

Now I feel lucky that my somewhat inexpensive R6->4.5 only took me suspension refresh for my weight, $50 in e-bay injectors and harness, and a rather annoying but uneventful valve job after it enjoyed stalling and not running cold during its first track weekend.

 

[slummy]

Now I feel lucky that my somewhat inexpensive R6->4.5 only took me suspension refresh for my weight, $50 in e-bay injectors and harness, and a rather annoying but uneventful valve job after it enjoyed stalling and not running cold during its first track weekend.

lol -- wait till next year -- it's a cheap sport until you start riding.

 

[slummy]

Just to conclude the thread, the exhaust shims only came out by removing the head and using a c-clamp tool. The were really stuck. One popped out with so much sudden force that it went flying into orbit, never to be seen again.