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R6 vs R1: What's the difference in cornering?

I see what that guy meant by point-and-shoot. Most def the opposite of where I want to go.
 
Abyss said:
I see what that guy meant by point-and-shoot. Most def the opposite of where I want to go.
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Then take the suggestion and get a supermoto.

By far the most fun slower speed street bike one can possibly own.
 
On track for me my r1 was way more tiring in a 20 minute session. R6 is so easy and forgiving. Granted the 09 r1 needed a suspension upgrade. Installed ak20 fork which was nice but didn't get around to the shock, the weakest part of the 09 imo. I did some stupid stuff on the r6 and it shrugged it off. I did some stupid stuff on the r1 and got to ride in the dirt. Plus it ate street rubber very quickly. Ntecs were amazingly grippy but handling was crappier with a mixed suspension. I was dumb to go that route.
 
Hooli said:
After trying to hustle the 1000 around Thunderhill last month, and getting to joyride my friend's 2010 R6, I'm srsly considering a 750 for my next trackbike. :ride
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Oh I always knew you would go that route! I loved all the 750s I had. Was faster on that than my FP Gsxr 1k too. If your looking into a 750 and can afford a newer like 2012 I'd go that route. More HP than 06-09 out of the box. Lmk if you have questions about them, have setup quite a few of them. Perfect track sleds for the taller people like yourself And me. I unfortunately have some additional lbs on you but I like my beers in excess and hate working out! Lol hope all is well
 
Also, back to the OP question. There is about 10% of track riders that can properly ride a liter bike at a trackday. It takes alot of skill to be consistently fast on one. Even with all the TC and AIDS, you will have to work hard to get fast, not just fast in a straight line, a grandmas mobility chair can do that. If your stuck on Yamaha, they are great bikes and have very easy tip in right out of the box. If you want something alittle better, the new zx6 is amazing. If you want something more torque and better bottom end grunt, than a Gsxr 750. If you want a larger tire and fuel bill then a liter bike is for you. It's all about what you need vs what you want
 
Abyss said:
I just don't like 'em. For some reason I always end up having a death grip and they hurt my hands. That, and it makes cornering feel really weird.

On a dirt bike though, obviously handlebars.
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Sounds like you need a upright bike. Im sure you will find less to complain about. I owned both the r6 and r1.. They are both fantastic cornering bike, just like all the rest of the jap sport bikes. Setup suspension. Back off on front compression a couple clicks. Raise the rear a few millimeter. There are many ways to make it preform to your liking. Either that or just ride it more and practice cornering.:nchantr
 
Wicked4Racin said:
Also, back to the OP question. There is about 10% of track riders that can properly ride a liter bike at a trackday. It takes alot of skill to be consistently fast on one. Even with all the TC and AIDS, you will have to work hard to get fast, not just fast in a straight line, a grandmas mobility chair can do that. If your stuck on Yamaha, they are great bikes and have very easy tip in right out of the box. If you want something alittle better, the new zx6 is amazing. If you want something more torque and better bottom end grunt, than a Gsxr 750. If you want a larger tire and fuel bill then a liter bike is for you. It's all about what you need vs what you want
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Thanks dude, not really looking for a new bike but I appreciate the insight.
 
bpowa said:
Sounds like you need a upright bike. Im sure you will find less to complain about. I owned both the r6 and r1.. They are both fantastic cornering bike, just like all the rest of the jap sport bikes. Setup suspension. Back off on front compression a couple clicks. Raise the rear a few millimeter. There are many ways to make it preform to your liking. Either that or just ride it more and practice cornering.:nchantr
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I don't need a new bike, I need more training and practice so I can find different ways to ride my gixxer.

For example, I used to think that hanging off was so kewl and shit, but now I rarely ever do it. I got too fat for my leathers (lol) so I started riding in jeans and realized how irrelevant it is on the street 95% of the time. That forced me to focus on having better transitions, throttle and clutch control, as well as get used to using my thighs and core to support myself and taking the weight off of my hands. Now that I'm thin again and I can wear my leathers I still don't feel like hanging off much and I prefer tighter, more technical roads that emphasize quick and precise steering, trail braking and snappy yet smooth throttle control.
 
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Abyss said:
What I think is I need more training so I can ride my existing bike in a more inspiring and progressive manner, which is why I'm probs gonna do more trackdays. Take the emphasis off of speed and put it on consistency.
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Smart. :thumbup
 
GAJ said:
Smart. :thumbup
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I learned in Krav Maga that "slow is smooth, smooth is fast." Keith Code also wrote an article about how one of his rookies started doing laps in 4th gear only and actually became much faster after having become accustomed to making consistent corner entries.

But really the point of this thread was finding out how literbikes corner, it wasn't even really about me, lol
 
Oh and Abyss...

:twofinger
 

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For the street, generally riding far below the bike’s limit, I find each type of bike handles about as well as another, so the deciding factors to me are character and ergos.

My ’05 ZX10R handled extremely sharp/quick on any road, compared to any bike I’ve had. Never felt like I needed a smaller bike, i.e., a 600, for better handling. The power did feel like more than I needed except for the rare wide-open opportunities, but I like having more than needed than not enough. Ultimately, it was the ergos which I couldn’t handle on longer rides (over 3 hours) – too fatiguing.
 
Seems to me this thread revolves around two issues.

1. How hard do you want to work the bike to get to maximum "safe" street speeds? (a well ridden GoldWing can do it, but it takes a good pilot). A Gixxer 750 be a bit more forgiving here.

2. How fast is the "safest" street speed? This calls for honest personal evaluation plus some experience in "shit goin' wrong."

imo, modern sport, street fighter, or even S/T motorcycles are capable of exceeding maximum safe street speed on 9, 35, 84, etc etc. with a good or even a medium good rider.

If one is "bored" at safe street speeds, I say smell the roses, discover LDR, or take it to the TRACK.
 
I'm not sure if it's the "corner speed" or if it's the shifting numerous times on the track that makes me feel like I'm really working a 600 and or "pushing its limits" that makes it fun. But now after track days on the R1 I wouldn't go back. It's not more work to hustle this bike around but it's more bc the speed difference is greater. It's like a time warp being rocketed out of a corner.
 
Corb said:
If you are ok with a thumper as an only bike, I'd argue a Husky 610SM or a DRZ400SM would be even more fun and make more sense in the Santa Cruz mountains.
My DRZ on Page Mill was effin hilarious
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SMs are ten times more fun on most of the good roads around here.
 
WeekEndWarrior said:
I'm not sure if it's the "corner speed" or if it's the shifting numerous times on the track that makes me feel like I'm really working a 600 and or "pushing its limits" that makes it fun. But now after track days on the R1 I wouldn't go back. It's not more work to hustle this bike around but it's more bc the speed difference is greater. It's like a time warp being rocketed out of a corner.
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Indeed. The thing about 600's is that they need too much work, and only have power in the last 3,000 rpm. If you don't keep them wound out tight as a tick, they don't go. That's why I like a 750, more grunt, but not the insane speed of modern liter bikes. (Which takes getting used to).

I'd love to own a new R1 though. :laughing

I call the process of riding 600's "getting used to violence".
 
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