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removing coolant contaminated oil sludge from enigine

Karbon

Karbon

Hyper hoñorary
Joined
Sep 27, 2006
Location
Santa Cruizin'
Moto(s)
superchicken, BRP SM, GSXR750
The old oil is gone, what remains is the tan/milky sludge in the cases. I've scooped out what I could from the valve covers and side cases and easily accessible areas. I plan on replacing the oil filter and running an engine flush a few times.

Any advice would be great thanks.
 
Sorry, I'm curious about the background. In your case, how did the coolant get in there?
 
You'd be surprised of the solvent properties new oil has at getting out milky stuff. 1 very quick oil change, and a couple more quick ones might do the trick. It is expensive but safer than other real solvent options like marvel mystery oil or whatever else.
 
Go buy a bunch of the gallon jugs of whatever diesel oil is on sale at kragen/autozone and use that. I actually have a bunch of jugs of that stuff in my garage that I probably won't use if you need it. I'll give you a better deal than the kragen sale. :p

Run it a little while and you'll usually see the oil turn ugly in the sight glass. Run a bunch of oil changes until it's clean.

I've done it successfully on an engine that sat outside and got a bunch of water/oil gunk in it. It ran perfectly for a long time (and still probably does).
 
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I agree with a few oil changes, the coolant should be forced out of any important areas (cam/crank) and end up in the pan. Any water will cook off immediately and go through the PCV.
 
fawndog said:
I agree with a few oil changes, the coolant should be forced out of any important areas (cam/crank) and end up in the pan. Any water will cook off immediately and go through the PCV.
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The problem is that water does not cook off immediately. Any coolant or water left in the motor will mix with and emulsify with the motor oil and stay there until it's boiled off. The only way to get rid of all of it is with heat.

Once the repair is done (new head gasket, water pump or whatever), the completely drained crankcase should be filled with fresh oil and a new filter installed. The cooling system also needs to be checked for proper level and that no oil made it in there. The engine should be started up (check oil pressure warning light) and allowed to get up to operating temperature by idling. The oil level should be checked a few times during the process. Then a hot oil drain and filter change should be done. Refill with fresh oil and a new filter and then test ride it to see if everything is in working order.

If any milky looking oil is still visible in the site glass, the process has to be repeated.
 
ALANRIDER7 said:
The problem is that water does not cook off immediately. Any coolant or water left in the motor will mix with and emulsify with the motor oil and stay there until it's boiled off. The only way to get rid of all of it is with heat.

Once the repair is done (new head gasket, water pump or whatever), the completely drained crankcase should be filled with fresh oil and a new filter installed. The cooling system also needs to be checked for proper level and that no oil made it in there. The engine should be started up (check oil pressure warning light) and allowed to get up to operating temperature by idling. The oil level should be checked a few times during the process. Then a hot oil drain and filter change should be done. Refill with fresh oil and a new filter and then test ride it to see if everything is in working order.

If any milky looking oil is still visible in the site glass, the process has to be repeated.
Click to expand...

This is exactly what we do with blown head gaskets on forklifts. Interestingly enough, happens most often on Toyota forklifts.
 
vent the crank case? this will help the moisture get out once you get oil temps over 212F
 
ALANRIDER7 said:
The problem is that water does not cook off immediately. Any coolant or water left in the motor will mix with and emulsify with the motor oil and stay there until it's boiled off. The only way to get rid of all of it is with heat.
Click to expand...

Guess I said it wrong :laughing but you said the same thing
 
DUDE, SEAFOAM GREEN FIXES EVERYTHING!!!

But that Alan guy seems to kinda sorta know what he's talking about.
 
Flush it with diesel and then add the oil. Don't start it with the diesel in it. lol
 
Remove valve cover
Remove crank filler plug
Go to a car wash, insert pressure wand into filler hole, pull trigger
???????????
Profit!
 
ALANRIDER7 said:
It's too much of a sidetrack.

Forget the hillbilly hackjobs. :toothless Just rinse it with motor oil and let the engine heat do the rest.
Click to expand...

Seriously. It's not that hard or expensive and works. Please no one pour diesel fuel in their engine.
 
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