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shop can't resolve FI light

CAcowgirl

CAcowgirl

New member
Joined
Nov 13, 2002
Location
Sacramento
Moto(s)
2007 GSX-R750
I purchased my 2007 GSX-R750 K7 used from the second owner in 2011. It never ran well. Lower than 6,000/8,000 RPMs, it'd be "herky jerky" twitchy like a 2-stroke. Very nerve-wracking when lane sharing, and unsettling to say the least in the canyons. One guy once said, "sportbikes don't come alive until after 8,000 rpms, it's just how they run." So I took that to mean it runs like shit below 8,000 rpms. That's just how it is. Very unsettling, but I would counter it by riding in lower gears than I should.

For various reasons I've not ridden the bike much in past few years. This year I wanted to change that. So I had a lot of work done: charging system problem resolved, oil and filter change, front brake fluid replaced, then coolant replaced. While replacing the coolant, the tech noticed the exhaust valve cables were missing. The shop said that'll lead the bike to be jumpy. Oh, finally I learned the real reason for the unsteady throttle. No, it's not me, and please, no jokes, I'm stressed about this situation.

We deduced some asshat replaced the stock exhaust with aftermarket, and when they sold the bike (to owner #2, or owner #3 (me)), they took off the aftermarket pipe, put on stock pipe, but did not reinstall the other exhaust parts. Thus giving me a shitty ride.

So I purchased the exhaust cables. Went to the shop. Then they tell me that the exhaust valve servo motor is gone. And someone may have "flashed" the ECU.

While it is expensive, I purchased a new ECU from Suzuki. I want this bike running well and I want it stock. Purchased a used exhaust valve servo motor. Still had the new exhaust valve cables. Purchased all the needed brackets and such.

Meanwhile, the shop's main sportbike technician has been no show/no call for several weeks.

They put a cruiser mechanic on it. He put everything together. He test rode it. It no longer does the herky jerky movements. However, the FI error light keeps coming on.

I did a search in barf garage forum and found the following threads, none of the 5 threads give the answer:
Search: Keyword(s): exhaust, ecu, suzuki ; Forum: The Garage and child forums

Can anyone help resolve the FI error light problem?

This shop has had my bike for a week and most of that time they have been holding onto it to resolve this FI error. I'm very uncomfortable that they aren't resolving this. It's like my bike is hostage while they "try to figure out" what they have no experience doing. I want my bike back. I want it fixed. And if they can't fix it by Thursday, I don't care. I don't want them to hold my bike so damn long. It's making me way too uncomfortable. I've invested a couple thousand dollars on this bike this spring. Words can't express my frustration and I don't want to pay them a damn thing for this job. And I want my bike back. But if someone can shed some light and tell them/me how to fix it, soon, I'll pay them and move forward with my life.

I'm on the verge of researching the motorcycle equivalent of BAR and filing a complaint. I don't want to do that, but I'm very uncomfortable and I want my bike back and I don't want to pay for them not doing the job right. And I will not be without my bike any longer no matter what goes on. That will make me lose it.

The Suzuki dealership I trust the most in the Sacramento area, they told me they only service 2011 and newer and wouldn't give me any info over the phone. Just a phone number to a shop that seems to be out of business. The Suzuki dealership near me is run by people who are extremely horrible to deal with. And I didn't deserve the horrible treatment either time I dealt with them. Don't ask the name of either, I won't share as I'm not here to trash talk.

Please, can anyone help? Alanrider7, Sharky, elskipador, engineboy, anyone?

Depression is ugly. I need my bike back, running smoothly, to help minimize my depression. Thanks.
 
Have you had the opportunity to ride the bike since they fixed the jerky throttle? Does it seem to run better? Are they able to tell you what FI code is present? Iā€™m sure that information might point in the right direction. I hope you can get your bike out soon as the weather is too nice not to be riding soon .
 
It's a common mod to remove the set valves on the exhaust of 06/07 GSXRs. It will throw an FI light unless you remove a certain wire from the connector then all is good. It's widely documented on the web. Happened on my bike. FI light came on due to set valve cables getting out of spec. I removed the entire set valve assembly and disconnected that one wire...and then no more problems for another 30k miles then I sold the bike.

Google how to read the check engine code on your bike by putting it into dealer node to confirm the FI light is indeed the set valve. Again, widely documented on the web. El Skip could have it fixed it under an hour as he did mine.
 
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CRUZer said:
It's a common mod to remove the set valves on the exhaust of 06/07 GSXRs. It will throw an FI light unless you remove a certain wire from the connector then all is good. It's widely documented on the web. Happened on my bike. FI light came on due to set valve cables getting out of spec. I removed the entire set valve assembly and disconnected that one wire...and then no more problems for another 30k miles then I sold the bike.

Google how to read the check engine code on your bike by putting it into dealer node to confirm the FI light is indeed the set valve. Again, widely documented on the web. El Skip could have it fixed it under an hour as he did mine.
Click to expand...

precisely that, very common mod.
 
do you know how long its been ridden after the fixes? some codes clear after a few miles, or engine running time, other will need key on/off cycles.
 
Simple FI light fix. Use as much as necessary over FI light.
 
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Thank you all for your helpful responses. I felt more informed and less helpless with your information.

The shop finally resolved it. The tech wasn't telling the service writer which error code it was giving him, so he in turn didn't tell me. I let him know that with me, more info puts me more at ease. Less info makes me not feel inspired to trust someone. :nerd

I ended up also calling Suzuki headquarters in the Los Angeles area. Guy was nice, but he was reluctant to reach out for knowledge and was 100% nudging me towards dealers. However, one shop won't touch bikes older than 2011. And others are too far or have vile customer service skills.

Any, I test rode it just 3 miles yesterday. It does not kick on the FI light. And it ran smooth. I was able to slow speed manuveur in a tight circle without feathering the clutch!

The FI light flashed C46 I believe, for exhaust valve motor. Cause: the cable tension needed to be perfect. You adjust the exhaust valve cable tension like you adjust the clutch cable. You measure the tension via the voltage being put out by the exhaust valve motor. It has to be just right within specs, or it'll throw the error code. At least, this is what I understand.

I plan to take the bike for a solo ride up Salmon Falls Road and back tomorrow morning. Wish me good luck. I have to charge the new Shorai battery, first... Best go do that now!

Again, thank you everyone for your kind help.
 
I'm back at the shop. Had to abort my pleasure ride. Very poor, careless job. Badly overtightened seat bolt, loose positive terminal, jacked up the wire on the negative terminal, didn't place the undertail fairing into the two tabs, didn't replace an undertail fairing plug, and again they placed the fairing bolts in thw wrong position so that the lower right fairing near the peg has a ton of play.

This is EXACTLY why I always prefer to do EVERYTHING for myself.
 
Yup, I gave up on trying to find competent shop to do any of my auto or moto work. Sure, they all probably have an expert mechanic or two at every one, but always seems idiot high-school dropouts are ones who gets assigned my vehicles.
 
CAcowgirl said:
I'm back at the shop. Had to abort my pleasure ride. Very poor, careless job. Badly overtightened seat bolt, loose positive terminal, jacked up the wire on the negative terminal, didn't place the undertail fairing into the two tabs, didn't replace an undertail fairing plug, and again they placed the fairing bolts in thw wrong position so that the lower right fairing near the peg has a ton of play.

This is EXACTLY why I always prefer to do EVERYTHING for myself.
Click to expand...

And that's exactly why I cringe when someone says they are having major work done by the dealer like installing a new crank and rods.
 
That's the sad truth, Danno. And it seems thattthe skilled or thorough guys will always do something more complex that the monkeys can't do and meanwhile, the monkeys do dumb mistakes. Even I know the concept of how much something should be tightened if I'm not looking at specs, not using a torque wrench.

Years ago some chump misthreaded the oil pan bolt and it forced me to buy a new oil pan. $350. Today, I do my own oil changes on my car. I have too many vehicles to do it all myself, so I'm going to keep looking for a man to make a husband for me. We can tackle everything together. And, do it right. ��
 
ST Guy said:
And that's exactly why I cringe when someone says they are having major work done by the dealer like installing a new crank and rods.
Click to expand...

I just cringe when anything needs to be done and it's outside my abilities. And when it's someone else's ride, I can't even begin to listen. šŸ˜‚
 
:rofl is a bit overkill. But, I've not posted on barf in ages. And I have missed a lot of the emojis. ESPECIALLY this one... :wtf
I'm sure you guys can imagine. LOL!
 
It threw the error code today on my way home from a ride! (unsure which FI code) But it didn't display again when I fired it back up at home. Grr!
 
Yes if the FI light comes on, you want to be able to put the bike in dealer mode before switching it off. Keep your paper clip/jumper wire/dealer mode switch handy so if the light comes on you can check the code right away.
 
Easiest way is to buy the switch, connect it to the diag port, and run it out from under the seat where you can flip the switch anytime you want. I zip tied mine to the left passenger peg bracket on my Bandit 1250 when it was throwing intermittent codes. I could just pull over and flip the switch without shutting off the bike.

I found cheaper prices offered, but this place claims to have it in stock and with prime you could have it tomorrow.

https://www.amazon.com/SUZUKI-DEALER-LIGHT-SWITCH-09930-82720/dp/B07N13ZJNG
 
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