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Strat's Big-Assed ADV Tour, 2022 Edition

Good stuff! Nice to see you're keeping the AT upright for the most part.

Riding long days for multiple days is hard if you're not used to it, and I'm sure your friend was just a bummed out about quitting as you were.

Loving the ride report.

My friend is used to putting in big miles and multiple long days. He had some other stuff going on, unfortunately. And funny you mention keeping the AT upright...stand by for the next day's report at the White Rim Trail! :rofl
 
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Still stunning!! :ride

Bummer on losing two of the four, but fun still to be had.

Pie or Prime Rib?? I think either is good. :teeth

My kind of campsite in Moab!! :laughing
 
Day 7: White Rim Trail

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If you've heard of the White Rim Trail, you've probably read that it's epic. I'm here to tell you it's just as epic in-person as I had imagined, if not more so. It's a 100 mile dirt route through Canyonlands National Park. We left Moab at 7am to beat the heat and planned on the route taking five, maybe six hours. I filled my Camelbak, brought another liter of water, plus a Gatorade. The trail starts with the Shafer grade, approximately 35 miles from Moab. It's a massive dirt descent with switchbacks down into the canyon. Here, you can just make out my buddy, Michael navigating one of the switchbacks.

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...and working his way down the trail.

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Here's my bike about a quarter of the way down...
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...almost down...
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Once down, you follow a rocky, dirt path along the rim of the canyon. The first 20 or 30 miles aren't that difficult, per se, but the road is rocky enough that you have to be deliberate in picking your line. There really aren't any sections where you can get up to speed and make up some distance. After 20-30 miles of picking through first and second gears, it slowly starts to wear on you. But the views!
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Most of the pictures I took happened in the first 30 miles...after that, the heat started climbing and we both noted that we weren't making as good of time as we had hoped. It was 83 degrees when we first entered the canyon and it was rapidly ascending through the 90s as the morning went on. Somewhere around the 40 mile mark, Michael asked me if I was having fun.

I told him, "It's not that I'm not having fun, it's just that this is challenging and the heat isn't making things easier." By this point, we had navigated a few tricky climbs and descents and I had dropped my bike at least once on a rocky climb. Somewhere around the 50 mile mark, the trail descended down close to the Green River.
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Which meant more sand...
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Let me tell you, a fully loaded Africa Twin is a HANDFUL in sand. Add 100+ degree heat and things started getting interesting. I probably dropped the bike three or four more times AFTER that last pic was taken and got pinned under the bike a couple of those times. We were close to the 60 mile point and now counting down the miles. We were both hot and tired, having each dropped our bikes several times.

Then we came upon this giant cottonwood(?) tree and both agreed it was time for a break. There was a nice breeze under the tree and the shade was a Godsend! It was also the first bit of shad we'd seen all day.
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After taking a break for a bit, we remounted and continued on, albeit much more sluggishly. Maybe a mile later, we entered a sandy wash and that did us in. I went down hard in the sand and walked away from the bike, leaving it on the ground and flopped under another cottonwood tree to my front. Michael tried to press on a little bit further; there was a sharp left turn in the sand, then a shorty sandy climb that was obscured to me by rocks. I heard Michael mumble an expletive in his Cardo and I saw a large cloud of sand billowing up into the air. A few moments later, Michael came stumbling out from behind those rocks--his bike also left lying on its side on that sandy climb. We were both cooked.

Michael activated the S.O.S. on his InReach and established contact with the Park Service. We had passed some overlanders a few miles back and sure enough, about 30 minutes later, they rolled by and stopped to check on us. We were both almost out of water, but they graciously filled our Camelbaks and gave us a gallon jug from their own water supply. A little while later, two park rangers pulled up to check on us. They had cold water and gatorade in a cooler for us! The rangers helped get Michael get both of our bikes to the top of the sandy climb--I was in no condition to do anything but lay in the shade and re-hydrate. One of the rangers mentioned we only had 8.5 miles to go before the climb out of the canyon at Mineral Bottom with only a few sandy sections, and then it's just a straight, flat dirt road back to the highway...that was a HUGE morale boost because we were both very much concerned about trying to navigate another 30 miles of this sandy stuff.

At this point, we had no choice but to wait out the heat in our little shady oasis and re-hydrate and re-energize. We got out of our riding gear to cool off and just relaxed for the next 4 1/2 hours waiting for the heat to abate, just a little.
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Around 6:30, we split a Mountain House fettuccine alfredo meal...after eating, we both felt like we were ready to get back on the bikes and by the time we got our stuff collected and strapped back to the bikes and ready to roll, it was almost 7:30 and it was starting to cool down.

We rode onward, counting down the miles on our odometers and duck paddling through the remaining sandy patches. I helped Michael get his bike back up in one of the sandy spots, until FINALLY, we got the the Mineral Bottom junction! The climb back out of the canyon was a wide, graded dirt road with switchbacks that was easy-peasy after the day we'd had.

And then we got to the top...and rolled on open dirt roads in 4th gear, watching the desert sunset, cool air filling the vents in our riding gear...we had made it! And it was glorious!
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We got back into Moab around 9:30 pm and got a room at the same hotel as the night before...
 
Day 8: Moab to Tonopah

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We both slept in a little bit after the day we'd had at the White Rim and had a big breakfast at the hotel restaurant. Michael needed to find a hardware store--his windscreen had vibrated off yesterday and he needed new bolts. We agreed to part ways there in Moab--he was going home to Washington and I was coming back to the bay area. The original plan was to ride Hwy 12 and go through Bryce Canyon and Zion National Park, but we'd lost a day on the White Rim trail and now, it was time to crush some miles and head west, so I short north to I-70 and caught Hwy 50 into Ely.

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Even though it was in the 90s, it felt good to have air circulating through the vents in my riding gear. I stopped for gas and a break in Ely and then decided to take Hwy 6 to Tonopah, with thoughts of continuing on to Mono Lake and camping somewhere above the lake.

Then, 50 miles into my run to Tonopah, I felt my rear end go soft and I saw my rear tire pressure going down in my TPMS display. Fuck.

I found this shady spot to pull off the road right at the intersection of Hwy 6 and NV-379. I couldn't find any punctures in the tire, but I heard air hissing near one of the spoke nipples. I suspected the rear tubeless rim tape had given out just like the front had done back in Idaho.

No worries, I'll put my spare tube in and be back on the road. Except my spare tube wasn't in my luggage. Shit!!!!!

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Progressive Roadside Assistance wasn't much help. They said I'd have to be towed to Bishop...and by the way, they can't get any tow companies in the area to answer the phone, so maybe try again tomorrow. WTF???

Thankfully, Michael was gassing up in Ely around this time...I got ahold of him and he rode down to give me his spare tube and help me get my bike back on the road. Thank God for Michael!

I rode towards Tonopah at dusk, worried about deer in the road, but made it into town around 10pm. No restaurants were open, but I wasn't hungry anyway...so I got a cheap hotel, showered, and passed out.
 
Day 9: Tonopah-Home
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Early bird gets the worm! I beat feet out of Tonopah at 6:30 am, angling for breakfast at the Silver Lake Resort on the June Lake Loop. I had to grab a picture of this craziness on my way out of town, though:
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Then I pointed the mighty Africa Twin west on Hwy 6 and set the cruise control for the run in to California.


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I caught Hwy 120 at Benton and followed the roller coaster ride past Mono Lake to Hwy 395. This is such a fun stretch of road!
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I absolutely love this part of the eastern Sierras...

On the June Lake Loop after my breakfast stop at the Silver Lake Resort
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After breakfast, I made for Sonora Pass--always a fun ride. But traffic started picking up quite a bit in Strawberry and was practically gridlock by the time I got down to Sonora and the air was pretty smoky from the fire burning near Wawona. Then, the long, hot grind across the valley, followed by traffic insanity navigating 99/205/Altamont Pass.

Sigh...back to the bay area...

Here's my TFT when I pulled up to the house...3,652.5 miles ridden, averaging 43.4 mpg, average speed 54 mpg, and my Africa Twin drank 84 gallons of gas. Bugs splattered: countless.
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And that's my big assed ADV ride. Thanks for reading!
 
wow ... awesome ride report is awesome! :hail:thumbup

think I generally average under 20 mph on my little 500 mile trips. :facepalm:laughing
 
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Well hot damn... These last three installments... Whew!

Michael activated the S.O.S. on his InReach and established contact with the Park Service. We had passed some overlanders a few miles back and sure enough, about 30 minutes later, they rolled by and stopped to check on us. We were both almost out of water, but they graciously filled our Camelbaks and gave us a gallon jug from their own water supply. A little while later, two park rangers pulled up to check on us. They had cold water and gatorade in a cooler for us! The rangers helped get Michael get both of our bikes to the top of the sandy climb--I was in no condition to do anything but lay in the shade and re-hydrate. One of the rangers mentioned we only had 8.5 miles to go before the climb out of the canyon at Mineral Bottom with only a few sandy sections, and then it's just a straight, flat dirt road back to the highway...that was a HUGE morale boost because we were both very much concerned about trying to navigate another 30 miles of this sandy stuff.

At this point, we had no choice but to wait out the heat in our little shady oasis and re-hydrate and re-energize. We got out of our riding gear to cool off and just relaxed for the next 4 1/2 hours waiting for the heat to abate, just a little.

This ^^^ is a great way to use the inReach, and a really wonderful outcome. God bless those overlanders and rangers! The intel they gave you was really motivating.. We drove the White Rim in my FJ Cruiser solo, but only did the easy sections like the first half you did. Our intel said it could be tricky where you had problems I assume so we just did an out an back. The switchbacks down into the canyon are a slog that's for sure.

I kept thinking "But did you die?" Answer "No" = Good adventure!
 
wow ... awesome ride report is awesome! :hail:thumbup

think I generally average under 20 mph on my little 500 mile trips. :facepalm:laughing

The Africa Twin is definitely no slouch as a touring bike! That big motor and sweet, sweet cruise control...plus comfy seating position make it easy to grind out some miles!
 
Great write-up, great pictures, great adventure! :thumbup
 
Thanks for all the Pics! You covered a lot of miles per day given the dirt parts. I wondered about the in reach part. Did he send the emergency message and did they communicate via text?

I wasn’t sure if responding authorities could text back and forth or is it because they were USFS?
 
Wanted to chime in and thank you for posting. Really enjoyed the report. Happy the trip went in the right direction when it had the opportunity to take wrong turns.
 
Thanks for bringing us along for the ride. :ride Nice writeup and great pics. Good to know the Inreach works and good response. Glad to hear you guys were flexible with ride plans. :thumbup
 
Thanks for all the Pics! You covered a lot of miles per day given the dirt parts. I wondered about the in reach part. Did he send the emergency message and did they communicate via text?

I wasn’t sure if responding authorities could text back and forth or is it because they were USFS?

He did send the emergency message and he communicated with the Park Service dispatch center via text. It worked out really well and I appreciate the rangers coming down to check on us and bringing us cold water and Gatorade.
 
He did send the emergency message and he communicated with the Park Service dispatch center via text. It worked out really well and I appreciate the rangers coming down to check on us and bringing us cold water and Gatorade.

Every single interaction with a ranger I've ever had has been a positive one.
 
:applause

ADVENTURE!!!! No doubt.

Great write up Strat!!! Super!!

EDIT - I took a moment to rate this thread. Not sure how many votes for that to show up but it is a humdandy for sure :thumbup
 
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:applause

ADVENTURE!!!! No doubt.

Great write up Strat!!! Super!!

EDIT - I took a moment to rate this thread. Not sure how many votes for that to show up but it is a humdandy for sure :thumbup
Thanks! What does it mean to have this thread "rated?"
 
Upper right at first post of the page you are on.

Search this thread. Rate this thread. etc.

Hit rate and it give you x stars to choose from.

Maybe as the OP you don’t get to do it. Check out another thread. It is like a movie rating. 1 star not so good. Etc.
 
Wow this thread was absolutely fantastic, inspiring, intimidating even. What a feeling of accomplishment you must feel. I'll bet you will have those beautiful images in your head for a long long time. Thankyou for sharing!

-Bill
 
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