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Stuck Caliper on Vulcan 800

gradjw04

New member
Joined
Sep 22, 2012
Location
Pleasant Hill
Moto(s)
Kawasaki Vulcan 800
Hi People, I had a scary experience today. Everything seemed cool on my bike. While I was riding, my front brake lever felt weird. I got to a stop light and my front wheel locked up. I could not move the bike. The lever had no play and the front wheel was completely locked. After five minutes or so, The lever felt normal and the front wheel freed up. I was able to get out of the intersection. Has anyone ever had this happen before?
 
Hi People, I had a scary experience today. Everything seemed cool on my bike. While I was riding, my front brake lever felt weird. I got to a stop light and my front wheel locked up. I could not move the bike. The lever had no play and the front wheel was completely locked. After five minutes or so, The lever felt normal and the front wheel freed up. I was able to get out of the intersection. Has anyone ever had this happen before?

How long since the fluid has been serviced?
 
Thanks for the reply. I am unsure of when the system was bled last. I am going to try bleeding it tomorrow. I was thinking that air might be in the line or possibly moisture. It would make sense that as the air expanded from the heat of braking, that the caliper would squeeze shut. Also, I would assume that water introduced to a hydroscopic fluid would have the same effect.
 
#8
bobl
Rookie




Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Merced, Ca.
Motorcycles: ZX6 Kawasaki
Name: Your problem is most likley your master cylinder. If the lock-up is hydraulic, meaning that it releases when you open a bleeder, then the compensation port in your master cylinder is blocked. It's purpose is to allow return of brake fluid to the master cylinder, and allow for heat expansion of the fluid. Have you installed aftermarket levers? They seem really easy it miss-install, closing the compensation port. The very first part of lever travel closes the compensation port, so if your lever is installed improplery, bent, or there is junk in you master cylinder, the port is closed, and causing hydraulic lock in your system.
 
Bled system

Alright everyone, thanks for the replies. I bled the system. The fluid was filthy. There was also this rust colored muck in the bottom of the master cylinder. I don't see any leaks. I wiped out bottom of the cylinder and bled several times to get as much of the contaminants out as possible. It seems ok now. Any ideas on the rust colored muck?
 
The rust colored muck is likely corrosion particles [rust!]. If it was noticeable that means your system had moisture in it, probably accumulated over a long period, and as a result some of your system has corrroded.

Bleeding the system extensively will remove the moisture, but you do not know what degree of corrosion damage has been done to the hydraulic components, primarily the caliper bores and pistons. I would disassemble the calipers and the master cylinder and inspect everything. If there is any significant corrosion, replace the problem components. None of this is hard, but you must be meticulous, and do it right.
 
Alright everyone, thanks for the replies. I bled the system. The fluid was filthy. There was also this rust colored muck in the bottom of the master cylinder. I don't see any leaks. I wiped out bottom of the cylinder and bled several times to get as much of the contaminants out as possible. It seems ok now. Any ideas on the rust colored muck?

Your brake system needs a complete teardown/cleaning/rebuild.
 
A complete teardown and cleaning would be cheaper, and a lot less painful than a locked front brake on the freeway.
 
Thanks

It does not look like that hard of a job. As for rebuild parts; Where would you all recommend that I look? I know that the dealer would probably charge a lot for some o-rings and washers. Where do you all get your parts? Also, should I flush or replace the line?
 
It does not look like that hard of a job. As for rebuild parts; Where would you all recommend that I look? I know that the dealer would probably charge a lot for some o-rings and washers. Where do you all get your parts? Also, should I flush or replace the line?

Use genuine Kawasaki OEM parts. Either from your local dealer or online. In your case, I would recommend your local dealer. You could also get a service estimate from them at the same time and go from there.

What year Vulcan, how long have you had it, mileage, service history? Does it really have a single piston in the the brake caliper?
 
It does not look like that hard of a job. As for rebuild parts; Where would you all recommend that I look? I know that the dealer would probably charge a lot for some o-rings and washers. Where do you all get your parts? Also, should I flush or replace the line?

This is not a job for a first time DIY. Get some experienced help or take it to a shop.
 
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